I have a 2002 maxima with 146,xxx on it 6spd and i am looking to stiffin up the ride. I have tokico blues with H&R lowering springs. Should i be doing the control arms and ball joints or something else? Let me know what you think. Thanks.

 

Rear sway bar, front strut bar, end links, control arm bushings, etc. These are all fairly inexpensive items that would help what you are trying to achieve.

 

Ok, any idea where i can get these parts from for a good price.

 

Agreed... replace every single suspension bushing

 

Unless your control arms are whacked, just replace their bushings and the ball-joints. More or less the same cost as replacing the entire assembly, and harder to install, but you'll end up with better parts.

Also, new FSB bushings make a noticeable change for virtually nothing. And those sub-frame collars are inexpensive and certainly worth it.

 

So I should just replace the ball joints and bushings

 

That's my advice, FWIW. Moog Ball-joints and ES Bushings in your LCA's is an upgrade over just doing a full LCA replacement. Not that I've done a side-by-side comparison, but it's the route I went after research when my ball-joints started to get loose. As to the lower control arms themselves, scrape off the rust and repaint.

 

Amazon.com, Moog-->K90459 and ES LCA Bushings 73118G. They have the best price, I just bought their last 2 ball joints, but I'm sure they will get more in. If not, Rockauto has the second best price.

 

You might as well purchase Moog tie rod end-links, they are much thicker than the OEM end-links and tend to tighten the steering a little.

 

Tie-rod ends will add an alignment to your budget, guaranteed. Somewhere between $70 to $100.

Just saying.

Oh, and then another $25 for a decent grease gun, because all these Moog parts have grease fittings.

 

You should also add sub-frame connectors (or lower tie bar if you don't want to go that nuts). It is a great addition to the RSB. Subframe collars are also a must. For inside the engine bay, try some poly engine mount bushings and NWP torque link. RSTB is out there as well, but doesn't do much for our cars.

 

The Blues are a pretty soft strut strut to begin with. Consider simply replacing them with GR2's or the Illuminas. You suspension components might be in good shape still, replacing them might not give you what your after. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. Check for play first, if all is tight run a firmer strut.

 

A search yielded nothing, and I don't see a specific reference to the steering rack bushing(insulators), but has anyone replaced them to any effect? If so, which did you replace, as there seem to be 3, 2 of which appear to be inserted and perhaps pressed, the other being a split outer bushing that mounts with a bracket. I'm guessing they're a pita to get at..but perhaps worth replacing.

 

True, tie rod ends may require an alignment, but I was referring to the end-links which do not require an alignment. It is also not necessary to grease Moog end-links, it will prolong the life of the part but it is not required.

 

There's a stiff rubber "boot" over the Moog end-links. Not quite the same thing as the "sack" on the Moog tie-rod ends and ball-joints... but best to grease them nonetheless.

 

Agreed, best to grease them regardless.

 

Here's another tip:

All these Moog parts come pre-packed. Regardless, pump some more grease into them after a month or two. Don't know if the quality or volume of the "pre-greased" grease is suspect, but there it is anyway.

 

"Looking to stiff up the Max"...

Show it a picture of a GTR.

 

I'm having trouble finding replacement steering rack and pinion bushings, as is StevieB. Local parts stores are telling me it's dealer only, and the dealer's telling me they only come with a new rack (listing at over $1,300.) What gives?

What brand subframe collars are you guys using?

 

two words: Bushings & coilovers

 

That's my plan Coilovers, LCA bushings, and Sub Frame Bushings and FSB Bushings and RTA also but will ha e the shop do those B1tch of an install....

 

I am somewhat in the same boat as the OP. I have not done any suspension work at all on my max. I was already planning on doing the bushings, tie rod ends, and ball joints. My shocks/struts are currently OEM right now. I know that I do not want a massive drop and reading/searching I haven't seemed to find anything that looks appealing. I don't want the car to feel every bump in the road but I want something where if I want to put it into a corner it can hold its own.

 

Alot of great info here,Thanks guys i TOO want to stiffen up my max,Feeling a little loose in the front

 

Does anybody know where I can find a set of rack bushings? I had to remove the subframe to weld in new capture nuts for the engine's crossmember, and would really like to change these bushings before putting the car back together...

 

Start with replacement struts. If you don't want to lower the car, then don't. Reuse your OEM springs (which is perfectly fine to do) and replace all 4 struts with KYB GR-2's. THEN attack further parts.