I've looked everywhere and still nothing. lIf it's possible, does anybody know how to do it?

 

what door chime noise are you talking about?

 

When you open your door with the key in the ignition. The dinging noise.


www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUN16V-I32U

 

I'd also like to disable this...

 

Bump

 

Go to the "How To's" and click on Delay headlamps rewire for 2000-2001 and this will get rid of the chime.

 

Tape over sensor? Cut wire that powers the noise?

 

Hammer. BIG hammer.

 

Do you have a link for that? When I click on the Delay headlamps rewire for 2000-2001 link, it sends me here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post1108673

Can't tape over the door well sensor because then the interior lights will never come on; unless you're talking about another sensor. Cutting the power wire seems obvious...but it's location is the question.

 

No link --- PM one of those mods and ask them to re-direct that link. Try puppetmaster. Most of those links have been broken for quite some time now...

 

If you have the Haynes Repair Manual, you should be able to find the location of the wire.

 

It looks like our cars have an electronic module that includes several warning tones in one disabling the one chime may be really difficult. You might want to cut wire #1, but keep in mind the door switch wiring also signals the dome lights to go on and you probably don't want to interfere with that so be cautious if you go that route.

 

Do you know where these wires are located? I'll test them out.

 

It'll be on the driver side under the front dash

 

Be glad you don't have a newer car where the seat belt "nag" alarm takes something like 90 seconds to shut off... At least on our cars it chimes 3 or 4 times and then is silent.

 

Your absloulty right about the belt alarm and it being a nag. I've always wondered if there was a way to possibly have some sort of greeting/goodbye when entering/exiting instead of the door chime.

 

If you can get access to that link-- the wire(s) are right at the doorstep that you must cut which makes things easier. Actually, I'll see if I trace the wire in my car...

 

Or you could just take the key out of the ignition...

 

That's too easy!

 

What you can do that does not involve cutting wires is to take the cover off of the steering column and unplug the wire harness connector that goes to the bottom of the ignition key switch. On my car, the connectoe was wrapped around and was on the top of the column hidden under a thick wireharness. The connector was wrapped in foam so it wouldn't rattle against the metal steering column.This just stops the door chime from dinging, the seat belt chime still dings.

Here's a photo with the connector pulled out in the open.

 

Exact answer I was looking for! Thank you.

 

Do you lose the ignition light?

 

it does?

 

If you mean the lighted ring around where you insert the key, no, it still works.

What you will lose is the safety of not being able to lock the doors when the key is in the ignition.

 

trooplewis was referring to the seat belt warning chime, not the door chime. The door chime keeps chiming while the seat belt warning chimes a few times and stops.

 

i dont have a seat belt chime

 

If your car is stock (no aftermarket alarm system) then I don't know.
Very interesting.

 

my car is identical to trooplewis' car.. just with more miles. could someone please document this seatbelt chime? i have the light that stays on if its not fastened so the sensor is working. i could grab a vid as well

 

When you first get into the vehicle and start the car, you should hear 3 or 4 chimes.
The seat belt warning light on the dash stays lit anytime the belt is unbuckled, but the chimes only sound for a few seconds. I think in 2007 that change to a "Nag" alarm that stays on for 30 or 40 "chimes"

 

well yeah, those are "ignition on" chimes. every car has this.

whats with these seat belt chimes?

 

I guess that my car works differently than yours.

If I start my car with the door closed and the seat belt buckled, I do not have any chimes and (not surprisingly) I do not have the seat belt light illuminated in the dash.

But if I start my car with the door closed but leave the seat belt unbuckled, I get 4 chimes and the red seat belt light in the dash is illuminated.

 

Hi, everyone. First time site post, long time reader. I still love my '02 Maxima SE, 6-speed manual! Thanks to everyone for all your stories, advice, and wisdom.

I read the above suggestions, but chose an alternate sound/chime/buzzer/speaker solution. My option took me less than an hour; (I cut some corners.) I wanted to share my approach for those who don't like cutting wires, disabling the door button, and want to easily reverse the "fix" in the future. I hated when I wanted to play music with my driver door open and the keys in the ignition for the radio -- that annoying chime would beep non-stop, interfering with my music. But I didn't want to lose the car's ability to know when the door opened/closed (for lock and alarm purposes.) I still like seeing the "door-open" visual indicator; and i don't like cutting OEM harness wires if I don't have to.

My method involves removing the piezoelectric plate (thin silver element) from the ECM's buzzer. It may not be the perfect solution, but it's much easier than it sounds. Remember taking apart your old digital watch to replace the battery, and noticing the tiny spring that makes contact with the silver element in the battery compartment? It's kind of like removing that element -- the watch no longer made sound if the plate was missing/damaged, and that's what this fix does. It removes the plate.

The only drawback is that now I won't hear ANY sounds that the ECM tries to make for me, because the speaker is incomplete. One useful warning sound I will miss, for example, is when I leave my headlights on after I take the keys out of the ignition. (It could happen after driving through a long tunnel or a parking garage during the day, and forgetting to turn them off at the end of the trip.) That loss aside, this is what I did to silence my annoying door-open sound:

1. It's probably good to disconnect your car battery's negative terminal at this point. (I didn't bother, but I'm a risky nut.) Your ECM (engine control module) is important; so use your better judgment.

2. Under the steering wheel and behind the lower dash, locate the ECM module mounted on a flat metal post. The ECM is a white rectangular box mounted tightly, that slides off easier when a flathead screwdriver is inserted between the ECM plastic and the metal mount. (A circular nub on the plastic keeps it secure by pressing against the metal mount.) Remove the ECM and then disconnect the 3 harnesses.

Location of the 3 ECM wire harnesses:



Closer look at harnesses:



Plastic nub on ECM:



ECM in hand:



There's the piezo buzzer we want to get to:



3. Slide the ECM circuit board out of its plastic protective case. Don't rush, since you don't want to damage the board or the case. It requires some cautious strength to wiggle the board free from the plastic guides. Easy does it. Used a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers if you need to. It's probably good to ground yourself free from electrostatic charge before doing this, as not to damage the electronics with a static charge. (Again, I'm a nut and so I didn't bother.)



4. With board in hand, find a clear table so you can take apart the piezo speaker without losing any pieces. Carefully pry the black cover off the underlying base of the piezo buzzer, to reveal the inside:




5. That shiny, thin, silver disk is the piezoelectic element that you want to remove. Take it off. (It's unsecured, and will easily fall out once you take the black cap off.) This is the critical component that makes the chimes/sounds/warnings. Save it somewhere, in case you ever want to reverse the procedure down the road.





6. Replace the black cap (or not -- it's optional), and put everything else back together. Don't start the car without the ECM wire harnesses back in their expected receptacles.

7. Test, and enjoy a quieter ride!

 

^^One hell of a first post! Damn dude..

 

 

Thanks, guys. Hoping to contribute what little I can to an awesome community.

 

Can you share how you unplugged the three connections to SECU? I have a 20th Anniversary Maxima and haven't been able to loosen them and fear breaking something. These connectors are new to me and I'm unsure how they release. Is there a way to move the SECU out closer and then disconnect the wire clips?

(I'm trying to reset the SECU in hopes of reactivating my remote fob and getting back my interior and trunk lights. I haven't been able to lock the doors remotely in weeks after I attempted to change the Map light within my Sunroom control unit.)

 

It is much more likely that you blew a fuse. Because the map light sockets are wired in reverse polarity, many people will blow the fuse when they stick a screwdriver in there to get the bulb out.

Check 2 fuses - fuse # 13 and fuse # 10. Both are 10 amp fuses, color red.

Fuse # 13 is in the middle row, 2nd from the left end.
Fuse # 10 is in the top row, 2nd from the right end.

See the top of page 3 for a diagram.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...01/foldout.pdf

 

DennisMik:

Thanks for the info and diagram; I'll try this tomorrow.

I contorted myself into the footwell today and finally unplugged the SECU connections only to no avail and remain in the dark with a dud fob.

However, tomorrow is another day.

 

DennisMik:

Many thanks for your insight on map light's reverse polarity. That bulb is a b*tch to change and I broke the metal retaining clip attempting it. It was fuse #13 even though I checked them upteen times. Time for an eye check.

Still, I've learned lots about my baby including that she may have an in-cabin air filter. For anyone attempting to changing the map light in a 2001 Maxima, remove the Map Light / Sunroof Control panel first. It's not difficult, the bulb goes in & out easier, and life without a fob is a drag!

See page # 37 at the BT Body & Trim link: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2001/BT.pdf

 

You're welcome. If you work on cars a lot, you will come across more fuses that look good, but aren't. It is a life lesson to remember. I take a lot of siht because I check fuses with an ohmmeter if I don't have one to swap with, but when I check a fuse with an ohmmeter and it shows that the fuse is good, I can take that to the bank.

All 5th gen Maximas have the provisions for a cabin air filter. But originally Nissan did not put the filter element in. I can't remember if they started installing the filter in 2001 or 2002.