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First Motor Swap - some questions

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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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First Motor Swap - some questions

Some of you may have seen my other thread regarding my rod bearings. I'm pretty sure one of them is shot, making my engine a ticking time bomb. I found a used motor with 60k miles on it near me, so I am thinking of swapping it. A couple of questions

1)Do I need any special tools besides the following:
Impact Guns
Deep Impact Sockets
Open end crescent wrenches
Torque Wrench
Engine Hoist(cherry picker style)
Engine leveler(is this needed even?)
New coolant
New oil/filter
New tranny fluid(can i recycle this? it is amsoil and it was put in back in january)
New Engine

2)I looked at the FSM, and it has almost no info in it regarding engine swaps. Is alldata worth the $25?

3)The FSM shows the engine being pulled from below w/. tranny attached. Can I pull the engine/trans as a unit out the top?

4)I have heard of people doing a 3.0 to 3.5 swap and needing to change the timing chain. Does this apply to me? Or not since I am using it with a stock ecu meant for a 3.5L?

5)Do I need any other special consumables?(ie, exhaust gaskets, etc)

Thanks for your help, guys! I am a photographer, so I promise to post TONS of *well-lit* pics once I'm done
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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I can answer 4) this does not apply to you if you have a 5.5 gen.
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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Awesome, thanks Moncef! Another weird question, I will be doing this in my parents garage. Ideal because they need to recoat the floor, before they do they need to move EVERYTHING out, so I will have a wide open 2-car garage. But, right down the middle of the slab is an expansion joint(ie, a crack). Will the engine hoist have any issues rolling over this?
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jgilbs
Awesome, thanks Moncef! Another weird question, I will be doing this in my parents garage. Ideal because they need to recoat the floor, before they do they need to move EVERYTHING out, so I will have a wide open 2-car garage. But, right down the middle of the slab is an expansion joint(ie, a crack). Will the engine hoist have any issues rolling over this?
Doubt it, I carefully rolled my engine hoist with engine on it down a 1" drop from my garage floor to my driveway so I could get the thing in the back of a truck.

You will not have to do the timing on the car because you have a 2003 so the motor you are putting in will be a direct swap.

Biggest problem you will have is probably separating the axles from the transmission.
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ampire
Doubt it, I carefully rolled my engine hoist with engine on it down a 1" drop from my garage floor to my driveway so I could get the thing in the back of a truck.

You will not have to do the timing on the car because you have a 2003 so the motor you are putting in will be a direct swap.

Biggest problem you will have is probably separating the axles from the transmission.
Really? That's good to know! I had a 98 max for a few weeks(bought as a cheap backup car, turned out it had frame damage), and I replaced both axles, and they were cake!(well, the pass side was annoying because of the carie bearing, but it wasnt too bad) For that, I unbolted the strut from the spindle. Is that what is recommended when doing an engine swap? Because I'd like to avoid the added expense of an alignment if I can help it.
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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1. larger socket will be needed for the axle bolt 36mm iirc, Also a breakerbar may come in handy if the impacts are not cutting it
2. .org>alldata
3. Yes you can pull it out the top, But though the bottom is much easier IMO
4. Has already been answered
5. SPARK PLUGS!! Wouldnt be a bad idea to do the Valve cover gaskets as well.


Also is it a 6spd or auto??

If 6spd you mid as well throw in a new clutch

Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; Feb 23, 2011 at 06:47 PM.
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Product_Of_Korea
1. larger socket will be needed for the axle bolt 36mm iirc, Also a breakerbar may come in handy if the impacts are not cutting it
2. .org>alldata
3. Yes you can pull it out the top, But though the bottom is much easier IMO
4. Has already been answered
5. SPARK PLUGS!! Wouldnt be a bad idea to do the Valve cover gaskets as well.


Also is it a 6spd or auto??

If 6spd you mid as well throw in a new clutch
it's an auto.

Another question: What about the A/C lines? The car is still driveable. Should I take it to an A/C shop and have them empty the system(then charge it once all is back)? Do I need any special tools for the A/C and fuel lines?
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 08:41 PM
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Leave the AC compressor hooked to the lines and unbolt it from bracket that is connected to the block. That way it stays charged and you can swap in the new motor and bolt it to that one.
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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You should read this: http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=19270
I know its a 3 to 35 but same procedure to take out the engine. just skip over part 2 since you are swapping into a 5.5. But there is all the info you should need. Goodluck man!
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tdabboud
You should read this: http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=19270
I know its a 3 to 35 but same procedure to take out the engine. just skip over part 2 since you are swapping into a 5.5. But there is all the info you should need. Goodluck man!
wow, awesome resource! thanks man!
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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I did an engine replacement under very similar working conditions. We pulled the engine and 4AT out together from the top - it proved to be the easiest method, given the situation. We also dropped the new motor and 6MT back in together from the top. You will need at least two buddies to help align everything (maybe even more, if you choose to bolt up the heavy *** 4AT without an engine stand and trans jack).

I think you guys have a different subframe/cross-member setup that may allow you to re-install the motor first and shoehorn the transmission in without dropping the subframe (which would be a hassle to do in a garage on jackstands). Aside from that, nothing should be terribly difficult. I forgot to unhook the power steering switch prior to pulling the motor and ended up ripping it out when it came time to hoist it out - make sure you don't overlook that - it was not apparent while disconnecting components.

I don't know how much help this will be for you, but here is the thread I made on the other forum: http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...-6mt-swap.html
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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Wow, thanks for the links to the other sites, guys! VERY helpful, and I wouldnt be able to find them with the magical search button here

I priced out parts today, I found engine hoist, engine stand, hoist leveler, tranny jack, and new floor jack(mine doesnt have very high travel) for about $500 from harbor freight.

digital - you talk about "dropping the subframe" - is this the crossmember under the engine that the mounts mount to? This should be cake to remove.

Also, how high do I need to lift the car to get the tranny out from underneath, if thats the easiest way? I only have jackstands, so I dont know if I can get the car high enough
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Also, will a motor from an '05 work and be a direct swap? Places seem to say these are the same motor, but are there revisions that will prevent a direct swap? If I can get a newer(ie, lower mileage) engine, I'm all for it
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Why wont u just rent the engine hoist for a day? Its way cheaper..
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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Who rents them? Autozone?
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Subscribed. Good luck op
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