The DIY subframe collar thread
08-20-2013, 07:51 AM
#81
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 261
Not bumpier, more firm. It's literally like taking away the age of your car, it feels new again. The bushing are on the k-member subframe. On both sides there are two stud oriented mounts to the car. One is near the strut on the frame an the other is closer to the lower control arm. I would imagine a spacer would work if your thickness is right, you would still have to use a crescent shaped one for the top unless you are removing the frame completely.
08-22-2013, 03:53 PM
#84
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
I think Nissan was trying to "simulate" a luxurious ride. McPherson struts can sometimes transfer more vibrations to the body, and theres not hundreds of pounds of sound deadening, so masking some of the NVH behind rubber was the best option. I haven't driven any other maxima than my own, so i wouldnt know if it really was a great ride when it was new.
Im guessing it would be the same reason they wanted that liquid filled engine mount, but dont ask me why they thought it was a good idea to wire it directly to the ECU.
Im guessing it would be the same reason they wanted that liquid filled engine mount, but dont ask me why they thought it was a good idea to wire it directly to the ECU.
08-23-2013, 10:17 AM
#86
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 539
^^The DIY sub frame collar option is guaranteed cheaper than all of those options, with a likely better outcome.
Considering they will all wear out/break down putting you back to square one, and the collars would not.
Considering they will all wear out/break down putting you back to square one, and the collars would not.
08-23-2013, 12:37 PM
#89
I think Nissan was trying to "simulate" a luxurious ride. McPherson struts can sometimes transfer more vibrations to the body, and theres not hundreds of pounds of sound deadening, so masking some of the NVH behind rubber was the best option. I haven't driven any other maxima than my own, so i wouldnt know if it really was a great ride when it was new.
Im guessing it would be the same reason they wanted that liquid filled engine mount, but dont ask me why they thought it was a good idea to wire it directly to the ECU.
Im guessing it would be the same reason they wanted that liquid filled engine mount, but dont ask me why they thought it was a good idea to wire it directly to the ECU.
08-24-2013, 07:53 AM
#90
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 539
Was it? Certainly, I have no regrets.
Between these and my RSB, my car handles unbelievably better.
And I did do them at separate times, to feel the effects of each.
08-24-2013, 09:02 PM
#95
08-29-2013, 08:15 PM
#97
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,215
A solid car like the maxima, I don't think so.
One of my first cars was a 1982 jetta that a lower tie bar made a monster difference but
it didn't have a subframe to begin with.
what a cheaply made pile of sheet metal that was.
One of my first cars was a 1982 jetta that a lower tie bar made a monster difference but
it didn't have a subframe to begin with.
what a cheaply made pile of sheet metal that was.
08-30-2013, 07:28 PM
#99
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
Donkeypunch i have to disagree, ANY unibody with shock towers is subject to sway/movement. Does the maxima not have an RSB from the factory? does any RSB effect how well it soaks up bumps/ ride smoothness?
08-31-2013, 02:15 PM
#105
Actually, the multi-link rear beam on the 4th and 5th gens DO have an RSB. It's built into the beam. The FSB you can see easily because it's distinct. The RSB inside the multi-link rear beam is much harder to decipher, but it's there. This is also emphasized in the Nissan brochures....I have the 97 and 98 Maxima brochures.
Last edited by dwapenyi; 08-31-2013 at 04:40 PM. Reason: Freaking grammar typos
09-01-2013, 05:20 PM
#108
09-05-2013, 06:30 AM
#109
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
so if i got those 1100 dollar Tein SS Coilovers every one is talking about an RSB wouldn't matter as much?
09-05-2013, 06:42 AM
#110
so if i got those 1100 dollar Tein SS Coilovers every one is talking about an RSB wouldn't matter as much?
09-07-2013, 11:50 PM
#112
[QUOTE=jeff5347;7991295]
The bottom washer ID needed to be ground out to measure roughly 1 ½ inch ID (I do not have a pic of this) so it could fit around the bulge of the cup, you’ll know what I mean when you unbolt the rear mounts. I used my hand grinder from Harbor Freight with a carbide bit. Ate thru the steel like a termite on wood.
The top mounts need to be notched to look like a C. In this photo the black area is what needs to be removed so they can slide in above the subframe. I used the hacksaw and then the bench grinder to clean any sharp edges.
[QUOTE=jeff5347;7991295]
Do you guys take the bottom rubber out or left it there with the new spacer around it?
Thanks
The bottom washer ID needed to be ground out to measure roughly 1 ½ inch ID (I do not have a pic of this) so it could fit around the bulge of the cup, you’ll know what I mean when you unbolt the rear mounts. I used my hand grinder from Harbor Freight with a carbide bit. Ate thru the steel like a termite on wood.
The top mounts need to be notched to look like a C. In this photo the black area is what needs to be removed so they can slide in above the subframe. I used the hacksaw and then the bench grinder to clean any sharp edges.
[QUOTE=jeff5347;7991295]
Do you guys take the bottom rubber out or left it there with the new spacer around it?
Thanks
09-09-2013, 07:37 AM
#114
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
Really done a nice job there. Concept cars are not put into production directly since they are frequently designed to boast what a car manufacturer can do. The display you present for us is inspiring and very professional.
I am also work on it. This will be helpful for me taking ideas from there.
I am also work on it. This will be helpful for me taking ideas from there.
10-29-2013, 10:52 AM
#115
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
So finally got around to installing these. My Fastenal only had the size in stainless steel so I ended up paying around $34 for 16 washers. It was a project but definitely worth it.
I used a borrowed handheld bandsaw to cut them and a file to smooth the edges. I ran into a few problems. First off, each individual washer was slightly thinner than the ones in the original post. This makes me unsure if they are clamped in tight enough to stay put, but so far so good. This also means that I finished without the one washer on the bottom of the rear mounts. Secondly, the nuts on the front mounts were a pain and a half. One side fought me the whole way and the other side I didn't even get to break loose. What I ended up doing was cutting the bottom two washers into a C shape just like the top and used a jack to compress the bushing enough to slide them into place.
Did they transform my car into a BMW? No. Did they make a noticeable improvement? Very much and very worth the time and money.
My car always had "something different" about the way it drove. I couldn't put my finger on it but it was embarrassing that a focus or a Sentra felt like it was more planted and a better ride. Finally with the collars, I feel like I'm driving a different car. This was probably because my bushings were very far gone and caused the front end to walk away when braking and turning (at 130k miles!). All of the improvements these made have already been stated in this thread so just write me down as another satisfied user.
I used a borrowed handheld bandsaw to cut them and a file to smooth the edges. I ran into a few problems. First off, each individual washer was slightly thinner than the ones in the original post. This makes me unsure if they are clamped in tight enough to stay put, but so far so good. This also means that I finished without the one washer on the bottom of the rear mounts. Secondly, the nuts on the front mounts were a pain and a half. One side fought me the whole way and the other side I didn't even get to break loose. What I ended up doing was cutting the bottom two washers into a C shape just like the top and used a jack to compress the bushing enough to slide them into place.
Did they transform my car into a BMW? No. Did they make a noticeable improvement? Very much and very worth the time and money.
My car always had "something different" about the way it drove. I couldn't put my finger on it but it was embarrassing that a focus or a Sentra felt like it was more planted and a better ride. Finally with the collars, I feel like I'm driving a different car. This was probably because my bushings were very far gone and caused the front end to walk away when braking and turning (at 130k miles!). All of the improvements these made have already been stated in this thread so just write me down as another satisfied user.
01-26-2014, 10:27 AM
#117
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 220
Does anyone know if this will work for a 4th gen Maxima? I've searched the 4th gen forum and they have premade ones that look exactly the same as the premade ones for the 5th gen so I assume this would work but just want to make sure. Can't find any DIY subframe collars in the 4th gen forum. Would the 4th gen use the same Washer dimensions? Maybe just having to cut them a little bit differently?
I've replaced every piece of the front suspension and I still get crazy vibrations in the car over small bumps and wheel hop. Feels like my car is falling apart. Hoping this might be the solution.
Thanks!
I've replaced every piece of the front suspension and I still get crazy vibrations in the car over small bumps and wheel hop. Feels like my car is falling apart. Hoping this might be the solution.
Thanks!
08-25-2014, 12:22 PM
#118
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
So i was able to go for a good long drive yesterday on my regular roads travels. Going over the highway, back roads, construction roads and such. All i can say is these are phenomenal. The washers tie the subframe nice and tight to the body giving it a very solid feel.
I think before these when you would hit a crack, bump or whatever the subframe was flexing in a different motion then the body. This gave my car a bang sound and not tight feeling when hitting ripples and expansion joints and such. Now the car actually handles better in the sense that not every imperfection is felt. Steering response is so much nicer now.
Another thing i noticed is acceleration. I think before these when accelerating some of the force would be transferred into flexing the subframe then putting power down. Now there is an immediate reaction when stepping on the gas. Not the lag as before.
Driving over the highway at speed is great. Expansion joints, rippled concrete, dips in the road,.. these are all greatly less noticeable.
All i can imagine is putting subframe connectors and a ltb on to almost have everything "welded" together. Wish i did this sooner and once i get my summer tires back on and the snows off this is gonna be a real fun ride.
I think before these when you would hit a crack, bump or whatever the subframe was flexing in a different motion then the body. This gave my car a bang sound and not tight feeling when hitting ripples and expansion joints and such. Now the car actually handles better in the sense that not every imperfection is felt. Steering response is so much nicer now.
Another thing i noticed is acceleration. I think before these when accelerating some of the force would be transferred into flexing the subframe then putting power down. Now there is an immediate reaction when stepping on the gas. Not the lag as before.
Driving over the highway at speed is great. Expansion joints, rippled concrete, dips in the road,.. these are all greatly less noticeable.
All i can imagine is putting subframe connectors and a ltb on to almost have everything "welded" together. Wish i did this sooner and once i get my summer tires back on and the snows off this is gonna be a real fun ride.
EDIT: is it even possible to find a rear strut tower brace for an 01 max?
Last edited by cdoublejj; 08-25-2014 at 12:33 PM.
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