Wanted to share with you guys on how to get wheelhop completly out. It works best with or without motor mount inserts. It stiffens up your engine so it doesnt move in between upshifts or downshifts. you will notice very lil vibration but not much. Your launching and shifting will feel so much better and smoother.

If you dont understand how and what he's talking about, then heres my lil write up.

quantity-12 washers
size- 3/4 washers
cost- between 3-4 bucks
It's best to bring at least one bolt with you so you can know the size of the hole of the washer.
Tools needed- 17mm

1. Take out first 2 front bolts on the crossmember and remove the rubber washer. Place one washer where the arrows are pointed. Screw the bolt back and tighten all the way. Your done for the front.



2. Take out the 2 bolts on the Crossmember and remove the rubber washer. Place 4 washers where the arrows are pointed.Screw the bolt back. Tighten all the way. Your done with the mod.




Now you can enjoy your car with no wheelhop and no engine movment in between shifts. Best cheap mod i've dont since i had my car. Please feel free to ask any question


please read below!!!!!

what you just read was off a sentra forum just for a guide...so for us maxima guys its a little different

you need 3 washers for each bolt for the fromt...2 washers in between the subframe and the frame itself and one washer on the bolt itself before the subframe..thats 6 washers all together

the rear gets 3 washers each bolt but all 3 go inbetween the subframe and the frame itself...any questions just ask and ill be glad to answer them...thats 6 washers all together

 

if any play in your washers...add another washer..shuld be a tight fit... a jack is needed also to help if you need it...

 

When I had my polyurethane motor mounts done, I also replaced all the sub bushing with the smaller polyurethane ones, same results ... no more wheel hop




Interesting that you lessened the wheel hop by replacing the sub bushings with normal washers ... do you have OEM mounts or ES polyurethane mounts?

 

Good stuff !! I am going to try this mod when I replace my clutch this week.
On a side note Does ES Still make a whole replacement mount for the front and rear of the x-member? The few sites I have checked only had the inserts.

 

Just the insert

 

OMG! i was thinkin bout doin this too since it worked so well on my spec. lol those pics arent maxima pics

 

I wonder if this will solve my problem. My Maxima tranny sounds like its slipping and shifts hard. But I think it could be the engine shaking because one of my motor mounts is really loose. What your talking about sounds like my problem though "It stiffens up your engine so it doesnt move in between upshifts or downshifts." Which is why I signed up on these forums in the first place to get help with this and I just saw your post . Hopefully you experts can shed some light on this.

 

haha if you read the below thing i posted its off a specv forum...i did it on my old car (specv) and was the first to do it with my max...works amazing

 

Replace the mounts with poly, same for the sub frame. I still had wheelhop reduced by i would say 80%

 

Hmmm Interesting I think I'll bookmark this. If the Tein SS install doesn't diminish all my Wheel Hop I'll give this a shot.

 

is this easy to do? do i need a jack? i do not have one at the moment just ramps

 

bookmarked

 

you will most certainly need a jack to support lifting the car up and two jack stands

 

i know that i have to get under the car but do i need the jack for anything else? wasnt sure if i had to support anything. I can get under the car with my ramps

 

if you do this and you are slipping, this mod will kill your car. Since the motor is unable to move and have as much play as it used to, all that torque and lost hp from the movement goes straight through to the tires, thus creating more force on the clutch to hold on to. When I did this to my spec v on stock clutch, it was great for a while. then I put MMI's on and no wheel hop, just slippage.

this will not literally kill your car, just make pwn slippage progress faster

also this will give you a good amount of in cabin vibrations. feels great if you into that kinda thing.(me)

 

That's pretty cool i'm going to have to give it give it a try

 

anyone care to explain the theory behind this to a dumb guy like myself? i feel as if this will only be as good as your engine mounts....am i right?

 

im not to sure this actually reduces wheel hop. It just probably just alittle more strain on your mounts. Along with sacrificing some ground clearance.

The concept is to space the crossmember from the frame of the car. The motor mounts are obviously connected to the Xmember and this puts extra tension on them by pulling down on them. People on stock mounts especially will just wear out their motor mounts alot quicker doing this.

 

You're right. The subframe bushings are another piece of the puzzle for reducing wheel hop, but won't completely eliminate it alone if you've got old crappy MMs.

 

this helped quite a bit with my max...I've run it for about 4 days now, and enjoy much less wheel hop...my next order of business it to notch the framing and lift the engine to realign my axle CV joints. you can follow with the link on my sig.

thanks for the thread

 

Bookmarked too.

 

what it does is, when the factory rubber is in there, teh member gets pulled back and forth during wheel hop because it has some play to it. when you put these on to replace the rubber, it eliminates that play and helps keep the motor from bouncing around, thus helping to eliminate wheel hop. I don't think this uses up any more ground clearance than the factory rubber pieces. Just replaces them.

This mod+MMI/Solids+other WH Mods=Teeth Chatter

 

^^ i have mmi...poly filled upper mounts...the 4$ mod and the nwp toqrue link all on my max and vibration isnt bad at all

 

Honestly people on stock mounts should not do this mod. Especially when you see the way stock mounts wear/break. You really are just wearing them A LOT faster.

 

^^ FULLY AGREE!!

 

what vibration are you talking about? wheel hop or vibration during accelerating (not wheel hop)

 

I think he is referring to the vibration the engine gives off once everything is tied together. Adding a torque link, subframe collars, stiffer MM and this washer mod. Tying all that together and solidifying all the chassis components can make a vehicle have NVH due to not having the damping effects of rubber.


Maxima dude. Did this make any noticeable difference in throttle response or the way the car feels while driving. In the TR meaning did it seem a bit quicker once getting in the gas since the engine cant move and puts the power right down vs the engine giving a bit then power to the ground?

MD, also do you remove the rubber bushings from the mount completely?

 

Did this today, sofar I still like it. I feel the vibrations more than before bit nothing that bothers me, but feels smoother. The only thing I did different was that I put all 3 between the subframe and the frame not 2 in-between and 1 on the bolt. Probably woulda been easier, now that I think about it hahaha

 

This is interesting

 

Maybe I'm just being a bit paranoid, but given my experience with poorly designed 3rd gen cross members (they have a long front "tongue" which was prone to crack/split right before the front motor mount due to flexing).....I was wondering what negative side effects there might be on the cross member itself going this route with the washers replacing the bushings?

Particularly, how likely would it be for the bolts to become stripped. With the bushings in place, that direct downward force from engine acceleration/rotation is dampened and cushens the force placed on those bolts.

Conceptually, I guess I just think of it in comparison of when I've tried to remove a power steering pressure hose while it's still mounted to the rubber bracket...it keeps moving and twisting which makes it near impossible to brake free. Get it on a solid surface and it will come right off....this applies to many things on the car....also like why it's better to lock down the brake rotor when trying to remove the hub bolt. It is dang hard to brake that axle bolt loose if that hug is moving even a little!

SHIFT: Maybe I'm off base, but I thought I'd throw that out there! IMO, in doing this, even if there is little to NO chance the bolts stripping, I would WANT that washer between the bolt and crossmember to create greater surface area for the bolt to secure the member. Additionally, even though it's a single washer, I'm not sure why you would want to try and drop the engine even a fraction lower than it already sits.

 

I honestly think this mod is a bad idea. I know people want to get rid of wheel hop but this is not the way.

 

^^ lol i had this setup for over a year with no problems... sentra guys been doing it for years