I made a post about 2 months ago about my rear window not being able to go up and the mother only working when it's going down. Well, I ran out and changed the motor thinking that would solve the problem and ibwas wrong.

The window works going down but doesn't go up and the weird part is when I test it for power it has power when I put it directly on the adapter itself and hold the button up but when I try to roll up the window it doesn't have any power at all and the motor is new.

My Neighbor did the work and he said he thinks the main control box is bad, meaning the window switches on the drivers side door.

Long story short.

1. When I use my drivers side switch to control the back window it goes down not up.

2. When I use the switch on the rear door it goes down not up.

3. When I test the adapter for power directly by sticking the flashlight with a sharp needle on the end of it lol into both sides of the adapter up and down it shows power going to both.

I dont know what to change.

 

Do both switches roll the window down or just the driver's door switch?

 

Both roll it down but not up.

 

when you roll the window up and it doesnt work, hit the window motor with a wrench or something heavy , but not too heavy to smash it, if it rolls up when you hit it, your motor is bad .


the only other thing i can think of is you are losing a ground at the motor in the up direction...cant see why if it intermittently goes up after going down ..


normally if you lose ground you lose it and thats it , it is possible a ground wire might be failing to the point where not enough amps are going through the ground to power the motor in the up position

 

you need a new master window switches. Mine are doing the same exact thing and i'll be swapping the switches in a few days.

 

This is a fairly common problem as the mileage racks up on our cars. Like the response above, I believe your master switch is more than likely the culprit. It's easy to troubleshoot the motor and wiring from the switch. If these don't present a problem, you can bet the farm it's your switch. An alternative to buying a new master switch is to have the solder replaced on the pcb. I did that with my 3rd gen and it completely resolved the problem. I do not solder for health reasons. So, I removed the switch, opened it up, and brought it to a reputable electronics repair guy. He charged me 10 bucks to do it. Under a magnifying glass and light you could see the deterioration of the old solder. The same guy freshened up my body control module (intermittent security system issues) for $20. Perfect.

 

Thanks for the replies but how much is the master switch if I choose to buy one?

 

You're probably looking at about $150.

 

I'll see if I can get someone to solder it to make it work, I just need to tint the windows and the window needs to be able to work.

 

My rear passenger window would roll down but not up with the master switch. I recently replaced my master with one I bought off Maxc in the classifieds. Everythings works like a charm now. Check the classifieds for master, people are parting cars quite frequently, just keep your eyes peeled

 

What was the price if. I can ask? Maxc is the company name or poster?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-04...item20bba09ed6

Would that fit my maxima?

Experts?

 

bump

 

for a fact that switch wont fit in your maxima... but the switch board inside might possably be transfurable. Some 1 chime in with some info if its the same circut board inside or not..

 

Thanks for the response browser, I'm still looking for a switch.

 

If you are going to get a used one, it will have to be from the same year model. Based on part numbers -

# 25401-2Y910 used in 2000 & 2001 (04/1999 - 06/200
# 25401-5Y700 used in 2002 (06/2001 - 04/2002)
# 25401-6Y300 used in 2003 (04/2002 - )