I put a cheap plastic AutoZone scoop on my 2001 Maxima!
#1
I put a cheap plastic AutoZone scoop on my 2001 Maxima!
I had an idea for this Gizmo (now dubbed a "Cool Air Diverter") while replacing my radiator and after reading about the GAB mod and controversy of SRI vs. CAI. Bottom line VQ's like cool air and suffer from breathing the hot underhood air. While at AutoZone to get a door panel tool, I saw this cheap plastic "Mini-Scoop" (complete with aluminum mesh) that sticks on the hood with 3M tape. It looked like it'd be a good basis for my mod idea so with some AV snips, files, a drill, and approx 2hrs time. Came up with a way to divert some cool air coming through the grill up to the (OEM) intake snorkel. I'm not going to make any claims on it's effectiveness, aside from the car seems more responsive around town and seems to need less throttle cruising on the highway (all subjective butt dyno claims). The only semi-accurate data I can give is that now the car consistently will hit the rev limiter/governor at an indicated 135-MPH and 68K-RPM with OD off. I don't know how this compares performance wise, but seems pretty good for a stone stock 130K mile 4AT VQ30DE-K (w/VIAS fix) and the only other "performance" mod a (oh boy I can hear the Cattman guys dissing me now) SRS 2.5" Catback. Hey, it was cost effective, a lot of Z guys have good things to say about SRS, it's nice and quiet (looks/sounds like an HKS), and I couldn't wait for Brian to build/ship a system since the old muffler literally fell off the car dragging on the ground. FYI; No fitment/install issues or rattles (did the CMax bushing mod at install).
Here's pictures (below); As you can see the scoop doesn't block the radiator much. In the last 2 pictures you can see that it barely shows when the hood is closed (see arrows for edge detail).
Here's pictures (below); As you can see the scoop doesn't block the radiator much. In the last 2 pictures you can see that it barely shows when the hood is closed (see arrows for edge detail).
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-20-2011 at 05:10 AM.
#3
#6
The only explanation I can give is that it might block heat from in front of the radiator at low speeds. The biggest improvement was on the highway where the car seems to pull a little stronger from 55k to the rev limiter/governor (not sure which) at about 68K. Before, it seemed to start running out of breath and strained up to the red line. That's with a 4AT and OD off (3rd.) OD on seems to slow it down since it doesn't let the engine rev as high.
#8
While I realize the OEM air intake looks like a scoop, there are no forced air qualities at play. It just sucks air... it doesn't "scoop it up".
If you want to increase your air flow potential, you need a pop-charger.
If you want to increase your air flow potential, you need a pop-charger.
#9
BTW; Sorry for the abysmal condition of my engine compartment Rochester!
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:43 AM.
#10
You know, I strongly suspect it doesn't do a darned thing, but I give you a nod for being creative and experimenting.
As for concerns about blocking air-flow to the radiator and A/C... I'm reminded that one of the most effective CAI setups for the Infiniti G is a long-tube design that places the access point in *front* of the radiator, with a small deflector shield so it doesn't get wet.
#12
The Pezz Cold-air Diverter. Clever.
You know, I strongly suspect it doesn't do a darned thing, but I give you a nod for being creative and experimenting.
As for concerns about blocking air-flow to the radiator and A/C... I'm reminded that one of the most effective CAI setups for the Infiniti G is a long-tube design that places the access point in *front* of the radiator, with a small deflector shield so it doesn't get wet.
You know, I strongly suspect it doesn't do a darned thing, but I give you a nod for being creative and experimenting.
As for concerns about blocking air-flow to the radiator and A/C... I'm reminded that one of the most effective CAI setups for the Infiniti G is a long-tube design that places the access point in *front* of the radiator, with a small deflector shield so it doesn't get wet.
Engines like cool air; denser intake charge etc. The Gizmo diverts cooler air from in front of the radiator/condensor area upwards directly where Nissan chamfered part of the radiator support to allow airflow to the OEM snorkel. Take into account the bottom of the hood will guide that cooler air into the snorkel when the car is moving. The under hood temperature is hot, and is the biggest drawback to SRI users unless they cut holes in the fender etc. Long tube CAI users still suck air from somewhere behind the radiator. I recall "Sparks" used to remove the headlight to get by this. Have you ever felt the heat coming out the front of the grill when the fans are off? It's fairly substantial and will rise into the area the Gizmo blocks when standing still or at low speeds creating a certain amount of the dreaded heat soak. Minimizing heat soak is why the 00VI IM is plastic (as is the "Diverter") and phenolic spacers are recommended for an aluminum IM. Since plastic/phenolic are relatively poor conductors of heat. So in theory the "Cool Air Diverter" could/should make some difference.
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:21 AM.
#13
To ultimately prove if it makes more power you'd need a dyno and fan blowing into the grill simulating highway/FTL (Faster Than Legal) speeds.
#14
There are dyno files of the GAB abundantly available. The reason the GAB was so effective is that the gain by cooler air is negated due to the decreased intake velocities of long tube set ups in the maxima. The GAB allows for much better breathing. Just because of this SRAM intakes have been proven to be the biggest power houses for the Maxima. Also phenolic spacers have the added effect of lengthening the intake runners and still make power on the 5th gen.
#15
I just had another thought! Unless it's too restrictive, SRI users might benefit from a similar setup using the OEM snorkel connected to the SRI filter by a length of flex hose.
BTW; I'm glad this thread has generated some interesting discussion. Thanx guys!
BTW; I'm glad this thread has generated some interesting discussion. Thanx guys!
#16
There are dyno files of the GAB abundantly available. The reason the GAB was so effective is that the gain by cooler air is negated due to the decreased intake velocities of long tube set ups in the maxima. The GAB allows for much better breathing. Just because of this SRAM intakes have been proven to be the biggest power houses for the Maxima. Also phenolic spacers have the added effect of lengthening the intake runners and still make power on the 5th gen.
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:20 AM.
#17
#18
Certain infrequently traveled stretches of highway I know the police seldom patrol. I always take a drive by to check for traffic and etc. Before a "FTL" (Faster Than Legal) run. If I told you more, I'd have to kill you!
#20
There are dyno files of the GAB abundantly available. The reason the GAB was so effective is that the gain by cooler air is negated due to the decreased intake velocities of long tube set ups in the maxima. The GAB allows for much better breathing. Just because of this SRAM intakes have been proven to be the biggest power houses for the Maxima. Also phenolic spacers have the added effect of lengthening the intake runners and still make power on the 5th gen.
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:20 AM.
#21
Not a bad idea. Wouldn't it be better to shorten the 'diverter' a bit? As in, make it shorter so the scoop doesn't go that far down behind the grille (that way, you would still be diverting some air and at the same time not blocking radiator as much)
EDIT: abysmal condition of your engine compartment? lol I thought it was clean
EDIT: abysmal condition of your engine compartment? lol I thought it was clean
Last edited by Nexus67; 08-06-2011 at 04:06 PM.
#22
Forgive my "sick" sense of humor! No lie, I did put a cheap plastic AutoZone scoop on my 2001 Maxima, just not how people expected! It definitely got some people's attention so I could pass on this neat little mod for others to try. Too bad I'm only claiming it seems to improve low speed driveability and give a little more go on the highway.
Imagine if I said you'll get 50 more WHP!!!!!
Imagine if I said you'll get 50 more WHP!!!!!
#23
I haven't noticed any increase in water temp so far. If you look closely at the pictures, the "Cool Air Diverter" is angled behind the grill. So there's still a lot of room for air to flow around it to the radiator. There's the big opening under the bumper as well. Plus it's more work to do that and it might not be as effective.
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:16 AM.
#24
I haven't noticed any increase in water temp so far. If you look closely at the pictures, the "CAI Diverter" is angled behind the grill. So there's still a lot of room for air to flow around it to the radiator. There's the big opening under the bumper as well. Plus it's more work to do that and it might not be as effective.
#27
It's raining today. I'm going to test my "Cool Air Diverter" to see if it channels water into the OEM snorkel. Overwhelming the water trap (the big round thing with the hole at the bottom) to reach the filter. Got a cheap dry-paper element in the air-box as a good indicator of wetness. "Stay tuned to this channel, for more news following the break!"
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:15 AM.
#28
"Cool Air Diverter" Rain Test
Rain test went BETTER than expected! The location of water droplets tend to prove the "Cool Air Diverter" works as advertised. And the filter stayed dry which means it won't send water into the engine. FYI; The test went as follows. City drive (avoiding puddles like the plague) onto the highway. Highway speed approx. 55-75MPH, in clean air and behind vehicles to test the effects of spray. City drive back (avoiding puddles), into the garage, opened hood and took pictures immediately following the test. The pictures speak for themselves, where the water goes the air goes with it. Draw your own conclusions.
Picture 1 shows a high concentration of droplets around the OEM snorkel.
Picture 2 clearly shows more droplets on the "Cool Air Diverter", radiator support, top and mouth of the snorkel.
Picture 3 gives a good view of the air/water flow pattern.
Picture 4 shows that air/water is actually traveling up the "Cool Air Diverter" and under the hood area.
Picture 5 shows the underside of the hood is wet above the "Cool Air Diverter" and snorkel.
Picture 6 the air-box is wet outside and dry inside.
Picture 7 air filter is completely dry.
Picture 1 shows a high concentration of droplets around the OEM snorkel.
Picture 2 clearly shows more droplets on the "Cool Air Diverter", radiator support, top and mouth of the snorkel.
Picture 3 gives a good view of the air/water flow pattern.
Picture 4 shows that air/water is actually traveling up the "Cool Air Diverter" and under the hood area.
Picture 5 shows the underside of the hood is wet above the "Cool Air Diverter" and snorkel.
Picture 6 the air-box is wet outside and dry inside.
Picture 7 air filter is completely dry.
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:19 AM.
#30
It looks that way. As far as water under the hood, IMHO the water's going to get there somehow anyway. By a big puddle, road spray, and even through the grill/radiator or gaps in the hood. Just think of what gets whipped around under the hood in the rain when the fans are running or due to turbulence on the highway at speed. I'd bet the tires/axles whip a fair share of water up under the hood. We just don't realize it! I always get a chuckle when people say "Don't get anything under the hood wet". That's why sealed connectors/gaskets are under there.
#31
If you're criticizing NACA ducts you're totally wrong they work well. If you're referring to the "Cool Air Diverter", apparently real world testing beats your physics!"
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-08-2011 at 04:17 AM.
#32
The Pezz Cold-air Diverter. Clever.
You know, I strongly suspect it doesn't do a darned thing, but I give you a nod for being creative and experimenting.
As for concerns about blocking air-flow to the radiator and A/C... I'm reminded that one of the most effective CAI setups for the Infiniti G is a long-tube design that places the access point in *front* of the radiator, with a small deflector shield so it doesn't get wet.
You know, I strongly suspect it doesn't do a darned thing, but I give you a nod for being creative and experimenting.
As for concerns about blocking air-flow to the radiator and A/C... I'm reminded that one of the most effective CAI setups for the Infiniti G is a long-tube design that places the access point in *front* of the radiator, with a small deflector shield so it doesn't get wet.
#33
I applaud this ingenuity. Well done sir.
The added gains would be due to the aforementioned cooler air, not because it's actually diverting it per say, but because it's blocking the hot air off the front of the rad when the engine gets hot.
But,... keep in mind.... this is ONLY relevant when the car is at idle or moving quite slowly, this means you may notice more responsive throttle off the line.
I like the rain test you did, seems like a pretty intelligent way to test the function without getting into crazy testing or wind tunnels, seems like there may be more to this than I initially theorized from your OP...
The added gains would be due to the aforementioned cooler air, not because it's actually diverting it per say, but because it's blocking the hot air off the front of the rad when the engine gets hot.
But,... keep in mind.... this is ONLY relevant when the car is at idle or moving quite slowly, this means you may notice more responsive throttle off the line.
I like the rain test you did, seems like a pretty intelligent way to test the function without getting into crazy testing or wind tunnels, seems like there may be more to this than I initially theorized from your OP...
#34
Some air will be diverted into the air box but gains aren't likely. The angle of the scoop is enough to cause the air to stall and actually build up at higher speeds, rev limiter speeds that is. Hence the wet hood. Its just going up and not in. If it was really helping air into the oem box there would be SOME water droplets in there as well.
#35
Some air will be diverted into the air box but gains aren't likely. The angle of the scoop is enough to cause the air to stall and actually build up at higher speeds, rev limiter speeds that is. Hence the wet hood. Its just going up and not in. If it was really helping air into the oem box there would be SOME water droplets in there as well.
Last edited by BobPezz; 08-09-2011 at 05:52 PM.
#36
The connect the dots theory is just that - a theory. I think that you need to take the intake air temp. @ or close to the filter with and without the scoop to write the conclusion to this experiment.
#37
All of this would have to be comparitive in nearly the same testing and with closely matching variables, such as outside temperature and roads, as well as speed of course.
This is not something I expect to see, although the OP seems to have the drive to do it, so possibly
#38
I cannot comment on this little device, but I can tell you that the snorkel does in fact work. Sitting idling at a stop light IAT was reading 150+. Just moving 30mph the IAT's dropped to 113, ambient air temp was 94 at the time i was driving. IAT's logged using an OBD2 scanner.
#39
That's a good idea! I'll have to find a suitable "cheap" digital thermometer.
#40
No no Daniel-son, you need to plug in a code reader that will monitor your IAT sensor, this reader will also read the MAP sensor, which will tell you both of the important bits of info, the amount of air as well as the temperature of it.