Brl24

So today i decided to do the GAB mod, with the coathanger. I had the whole stock intake off (maf and battery disconnected), I got the filter in nice and tight. Went for a test drive, the car started up perfect, idled for a few minutes. After I drove for a couple minutes, taking off from a stop sign i started to step into it and it just started to drop rpms and stalled out. Now it will start fine, but only run for a couple seconds before it bogs down and stalls, and the throttle is completely useless, it does nothing. I had no tools with me and it was getting dark, so i did the ecu reset, throttle valve closed position learning operation, but I cant do the throttle position learning because it wont idle long enouph to get up to temp. None of the procedures helped anything and I know i did them right. Its now too dark, and I am completely out of patients because i barely even did anything. Just wondering if anyone has had similar symtoms from messin around in the intake area, this is rediculously frustrating. I will be at it in the morning with some tools and a fresh set of patients, but any help would def make it better

altezzablazes

check and see if any foreign material has gotten in the maf sensor itself. not the piping but the actual sensor. there is small tunnel that lets air gets metered through. when it become partially clogged your car will idle low or stall

02pearlmax

iTrader: (8)

Double check all your connections, clamps, etc. If you can get it to run for a little bit, listen for hissing or ticking which would indicate a leak somewhere. Also, put the the stock filter holder back on and see if the problem goes away.

Brl24

Suspected the Maf as well, I had zero tools, light, patients or money so I had to walk home It was a fun walk, but I will be doing a full inspection (roadside), with tools tomorrow, and will try the stock filter holder. Hopefully I can atleast drive I home to figure this out if I can't then

02pearlmax

iTrader: (8)

Good luck man. Its probably just a simple oversight or loose clamp since you had no light or anything. But if it is the MAF, you could always try the CRC MAF cleaner. Its like $7 at autozone.

Brl24

Ya I have some, I planned on bringing it I can only hope its something simple as that, it would make me very happy.

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

You were excited that the project was complete and wanted to take her out and probably just forgot a connection. Did unplug the maf or just take the whole sensor out of the housing?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

All the comments are spot on, you have a loose clamp after the MAFS from the sound of it (closest to the throttle body)

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

If you took it completely apart, it may be possible that maf, either sensor or housing, got installed backwards. No sure if it would bolt up backwards but it could be a possibility I suppose.

Brl24

I only disconnected the maf, it was left in the housing the whole time. So I went back to the car today, unplugged the maf and presto it started and idled, but wouldn't with it plugged in. I drove it home (wish I did this last night, I was angry) but I have it out and cleaned now. Hopefully it just got dirty while I was working, we will see soon.

Brl24

No luck, cleaned it twice now and it won't run with the maf plugged in. I also tried it both ways with the stock filter holder and no luck. Should I assume it needs a new maf? Everything else looks to be fine. Dammit, all from doing a gab mod

02pearlmax

iTrader: (8)

If you're positive that there's no leaks, then yes I would replace the MAF. Since your car is a 2002 according to your profile, your best option would be to buy the $90 2k1 MAF and swap over the old thermistor rather than spending $400 for a 2k2 MAF.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

Brl24

I live in canada, and the only one i could get a price for now was $540 plus tax for the 5 and 5.5 gens. Thats includes the housing, I think I only need the sensor and it sounds like I should be ordering one from the states. I will try Dave B, even with shipping it wouldnt be anywhere near how expensive they are here. This was not worth the gab mod, which i was gonna take off for a pop charger when i get my y pipe. Not cool

02pearlmax

iTrader: (8)

Oh I didn't realize you were in Canada. Those are some ridiculous prices. Dave B is pretty knowledgeable though he should be able to help you out. Keep us posted with what you do man.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Where are you boss? I have a couple 2k1 MAFS here.

Brl24

Im just outside Toronto Ontario, I have one more local place im gonna try tomorrow, but what would you want for one? I really cant find anything else that would be causing this, but as soon as the maf is unplugged it idles fine so I have to assume thats what it is.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Not necessarily. The MAF is metering air. When it is unplugged the ECU goes into a default mode. If the MAF is working and you have unmetered air entering, the engine will run like crap. Unplug it and the default mode will often mask the effects. I wouldn't be so quick to blame the MAF. The chance of it coincidentally failing is very low. Either you damaged it (maybe by accidentally dropping it or hitting the fender or something) or you have unmetered air creating the problem.

If it is definitely no longer working, buy one of those from Tuner.

Also, check your connector for damaged pins.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

THIS^

If you just can't figure it out, hit up Toronto Maxima, find Nick ("TLMNick") if you sweet talk him he'll be able to check it for you and get you fixed up in no time.

Otherwise you could wheel it down here and I'll check it, if in either case you end up needing a MAFS, I'll hook you up for a very reasonable price.

Brl24

Funny story man, I actually know Nick, i sold his uncle my 4th gen at the begining of the year, right before i bought my 5.5 I have his cell I guess ill be givin him a shout tomorrow. Thanks for the help, where abouts are you located? Its good to know I have a few brothers close by, Im on here a lot and it feels like everyone and all the parts and cool stuff has to come from japan haha

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Haha, yeah Nicks' a good guy, smart and level headed, a great combo for diagnosing problems.

I'm in Kitchener, not too far, bout 40mins from 401 & 400

Brl24

Right on man, I'm in Barrie, I wanna go to a meet soon if there is one coming up. I'm up early cuz I work construction, so im gonna wait a bit to talk to Nick. Since I can run the car to 2k rpm, when I unplug the maf, it will drive, would it be terrible to drive it down to see him? It smells like it's running pretty rich, from limp mode I think? I just really need to figure this out cus it's my dd and I'm without a way to work, bumming rides sucks.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

It's strange on my DE-K it won't runwith the MAFS disconnected.... So I'm not the best guy to ask about this, perhaps the 3.5 is different.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I do have one idea for youthough, put some cardboard over the air filter intake side to 'snuff' the engineout, if theengine keepsrunning there is an intake leak after the MAFS

Brl24

Alright thanks tuner, I will give that a try. Right after I posted from my phone this morn it died, so i didnt get a chance to call Nick or do any other calling around or research, til now that im home from work. Are there any ways I can check if the maf is for sure done? Another member offered me one for a good price but i believe it is used, and has to be shipped. So I really would like to be positive its the maf and replace it, otherwise I can start looking elsewhere :s. I found a couple remaned ones from a parts shop i deal with and they can get me one for just over 200, nissan wanted over $600 haha, so we will see. Im gonna go try the snuff trick now and talk to Nick, then go from there. Is nellege from canada aswell?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Yah I'd sell a fellow Canadian Orger one of the ones I have for $80, they're used though of course. I tested them on my 2001 and they didn't cause any issues, that's all I can tell you about 'em though.

I am not aware of any decisive way to test the MAFS specifically. I still suspect a intake leak after the MAFS though, so let us know how the test goes. And please remove and reinstall ALL connections all the way to the TB just to be sure.

Brl24

Everything has been disconnteced and reattatched, multiple times. I tried the cardboard idea, which sealed well but stalled the motor with and without the maf plugged in. I did find an odd connection close to the maf connector, where someone has spliced off the black wire(ground I assume), and connected it directly to the negative battery terminal? Has anyone seen or done this, and why if you have? They soldered it, and wrapped it in tape. I removed the tape and cleaned the connection with maf cleaner, which appears to be good, and made sure the connection to the battery was good. Also there was some tape on the white wire close to the connector, that was protecting a gash in the rubber insulator, cleaned and re-taped, no luck. I'm really starting to believe its the maf, I just wish I had a good one to try and I would know. I'm going to inspect further for now, unless anyone has any other ideas?

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Buy one off a member here and try it. If it doesnt solve your problem, keep it till the problem is resolved then sell it.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

You just named a bunch of very likely wiring issues directly associated with the MAFS, then still, for some reason, suspect the MAF itself?
No no cowboy, back up the bus my friend. MAFS rely on precise voltage metering to the ECM, even the most minute change in resistance will cause an issue. It seems to me that someone has been into this before, and once you started moving wires and changing stuff, one of the repaired connections went bad.

Also, I do NOT think that Black wire should be grounded to chassis ground, it SHOULD run to the ECM for grounding. You can't just ground the damn wire to chassis, and certainly, shouldn't chassis ground it AS WELL as letting it go to the ECM, that is going to mess up the signals the ECM is receiving, as well as cause potential damage to the ECM due to excessive potential current.

I would highly recommend letting Nick look at this one, or myself, but he's better versed on the 5.5, closer to you, and you know him already.

In either case, here is the FSM testing procedure and wiring diagram, for yourself, and anyone searching in the future:

Brl24

Thanks man, I need to go buy a multimeter, unless I need something else to do this? Nick is a busy man, I haven't really been able to talk to him. I'm gonna do as much of the testing in the Fsm as I can. If that doesn't turn up positive and nick can't help, then I will either have to grab one off you (which is a long drive in a car that's not running right) or order an 01 mafs which will take atleast a day what year is the one you have?

ImStricken

i have an MAF from a 2002 71kmiles on it
let me know if you need it.

Brl24

where is the ecm??

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Voltmeter/multimeter. Canadian Tire $20-80 one will be fine for your uses.

I can ship it to you you'd just have to pay shipping cost, dont know if that's cheaper, PM me if you want to check it out.

Do you have a FSM?????
I think it's under the dash in the center but haven't bothered to look on the 5th gen yet. Check the FSM.

Brl24

ok so iv been so busy working and helping the gf move, im finally getting to this troubleshooting. I am very basic when it comes to this electrical stuff, but i got a multimeter and have been successful testing, until it says "check for short to power" What does this mean? Im really nervous doing this as I dont want to fry anything. Im sure this is a really dumb question, but so am I when it comes to this stuff

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Not a dumb question, I'm impressed you got that far without a question.

Short to power means a wire that shouldn't be energized (have power) during testing has power,
EX. can occur when 2 power wires rub together, only one of the power wires is supposed to be energized at a time, but there is a "short to power" in the other wire.

Brl24

Thanks bro, my neighbour actually cleared that up for me. The fsm is very vague, it's almost like it was translated from Japanese haha. I'm on the last step of the troubleshoot, but I ran out of time. So hopefully I will finish up today, and either fix it or order the mafs. I found a 2k1 maf new for 150, and I'll just do the thermistator swap. Thanks for your help tuner

Brl24

My mind is still going, I can't order the new mafs until tomorrow, which won't be in until wed. Im still goin over every other possibility and there's only thing that makes me question it being the mafs. Since my car is in limp mode it won't rev above 2400 rpm, making the very last part of that trouble shoot hard to do. With the key forward, testing the mafs signal wire ate ECM harness it measures around 1v. When I start it, although not being able to rev to 4000 rpm, the voltage does not fluctuate at all when reved. Which does suggest the mafs is fried and sending too low of a signal, causing it to stall. I only wonder if it being in limp mode could cause this?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I still suspect wiring..

Brl24

So do I, I hope I dont buy a new mafs for no reason

Brl24

New mafs comes today, so last night I decided to get the codes scanned. Since the light has been on this whole time... 12 codes came up, from tps and the mafs code, to the dealer assistance or whatever it's called. Jesus, that is discouraging, if there is that much **** wrong with this car after all this, it's gettin sold as is. I'm going to see what happens when I put this mafs in, wish me luck

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Disconnect the battery for a couple days