So my passanger front window is slow to roll up, and it seems to be getting worse fast.

I'd like to fix it, what do I need?

A regulater and a motor or just one or the other ..

I noticed ebay has some aftermarket regulators for cheap, and motors as well. But they seem so cheap I wonder if they are any good .

Has anyone used any of the aftermarket regulators or motors ?
They fit ok ? work ok ?

 

I could use some info on this also.

 

My front passenger window got real slow and eventually completely stopped moving a couple years ago. I only put in a new motor and just lubed up the window guides & regulator and all is good going on 2 years later. Got the window motor from Napa for around $60 IIRC and took less than an hour to replace.

You might want to get a tube of window regulator grease/lube from Nissan (what I used) and see if that helps smooth things out, otherwise be prepared to replace at least the motor, if not both. If/when the window does fail, then you can test the components pretty easily to figure it out by testing the switch, motor, and regulator by popping that door panel off. In my experience, if there was no irregular noise/misalignment issues during operation before the window actually fails, then it's probably just the motor but performing simple electrical tests can confirm if one or more are bad, once the window seizes. If you determine regulator is bad, I would just replace both the motor and regulator at same time since you can buy them both as one assembly for very little difference in $$, as compared to just buying the regulator by itself. But getting just the motor by itself saved me well over $100 in parts as I recall. Hope that helps.

 

K thanks alot . Ive got my eye on this aftermarket setup from dorman.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dorma...item48409882aa

Seem ok ? Im not sure what brand to look for ....

 

i have the same problem, takes three times as long for the passenger to roll up then the drivers side. but the weird thing is, my passenger switch to roll it up doesnt work at all i have to roll it up on my drivers side switch... so let me know if you get the fix by replacing the motor.

 

You have two problems - the passenger door switch and the window. They are not related to each other.

The slow window could be 1 of 3 things. The regulator, the motor or (amazingly) the rubber trim on the door panel that rubs against the glass. If that rubber strip is folded in, it slows down the window. I had that on both front and rear passenger doors. When I took the door panel off, the window went up and down just fine.

You can use the power window switch from a rear dooor to test the passenger door window switch without having to buy one as a guess.

 

My windows have recently began squeaking whenever I roll them up. I'm sure that lube is needed to take away that problem, but is that a beginning sign of a bad motor or regulator as well?

 

Spray is fairly cheap. Helped speed-up my driver's side window.

 

wow.. my car suffers from the same thing but both pasenger windows dont work only when i roll up on drivers door.. but guess i can try with the rear drivers switch to see if that is the problem.. If its not the switches then where do I start to look to solve problem??

 

ill try it , what parts exactly do I spray?

 

i tried the silicone spray, did not work. my guess is the motor/regulator assembly. if you actually purchase it, lemme know if it works. my windows been like that since i purchased the car

 

i have a similar issue, but I think mine is definitely a regulator, as it will sometimes stop entirely. have really been hesitant to open the door up to figure out exactly what it is, though.

 

Apply the silicone any where the window contacts rubber weatherstrips. With the window down, spray into the channels on the car door's window frame as well as the window side of the black rubber strip that's along the bottom of the window opening. Use a silicone lubricant, not something like WD-40. To avoid over-spray, spray a good amount of the lube on a paper towel then run it along the window frame channels and the rubber strip.

It may be a long shot but it's worth a try.

 

Ive done exactly the same thing before, It did help with my slow window a little bit but it for sure got rid of a squeak I had with the window.

 

Yeah, I do this about twice a year to keep the windows moving smoothly (makes a big difference, especially in the winter). I figure it will minimize stress on the power window system and prolong the life of it's components.

 

i've had the same problem with my passenger front too. sometimes it works fine, othertimes it barely moves. believe just need a new motor but never got around to fixing it.

 

It worked !!!

Thanks man.

Its been over a week since I sprayed and window is rollin nice still, had alittle film from the silicon first 2-3days but all is well. Hope it stays the way it is.

 

You can also use armorall original in the same way u used the silicon spray.. I had that happen to me when i had my maxima and it solved the problem for about a year.. then i lubed it again and back to normal..

 

Glad it helped. FIY, a microfiber towel works really well getting the silicone residue off of the window glass.

Do this a couple of times a year (I usually do it late Spring & Fall) to keep 'em running smooth.

 

I have the same problem with my drivers side window. But I notice it is worse when it's cold outside (like in the winter time). Would this more likely be the motor or the regulator.

 

None of the tips mentioned above worked for you?

 

Try Silicone spray lube first. It's fairly inexpensive and it just might work. I originally tried it on my 4th gen because the driver's side window was alot slower in the cold, just like you are now experiencing!

 

no one tried white lithium spray grease?

 

That would probably leave a greasy residue on the window glass, if used on the window channels or the rubber strip on the door at the base of the window. Also think the Lithium grease would attract dust and dirt more than the silicone.

I guess it would be great on the mechanism inside the door, though.

 

Its been a few weeks now and my window is still smooth after using just silicone spray. Did leave some film that took 2 or 3 washes to get it out but the window still rolls nice and film is now gone.

If it does get slow again, Im going to pull the door panel and realy lube it up

 

My car also has the same issue. Rolls down fine but rolling up is the problem. Not too worried though....

 

My driver's side window has been really slow the past few years. I tried the silicon lubricant in the guides and the horizontal trim. My windows still get filmy from the horizontal trim, so make sure you clean that one really well. Lubing up the guides helped a little. I also noticed a little bit of play in the window where it would lean forward while going up - increasing the stress on the motor. Pulling the window towards the B-pillar while it was rolling up helped a little.

For the past few months, my window needed my manual help to get it to the top. I finally got fed up and purchased the driver's side motor/regulator combo from the same seller of the ebay link above (cost me $72 shipped). Local stores were selling the motor for more than that, so I figured I should just replace everything.

Overall an easy project. Give yourself 3 hours so you dont feel rushed. I have removed my door panel numerous times for the speakers. Getting my dynamat off was a little bit of a pain. I also had to unbolt the metal bar which gives structural support to the door handle. Once the door panel was off, I plugged in the switches so I had some control over the window. Both harnesses have to be plugged in to the switch.

Here's the fun part:
-Roll the window down 3/4 to get the bolts to line up with the access holes. Two bolts later, you can turn the glass side ways and slip it right out of the car. This is a great time to clean it and the bottom part which never gets cleaned.
-Four bolts hold the regulator down, and 3 bolts for the motor. Unclip the wire harness to the motor then undo all the bolts.
-Slide the regulator sideways with the motor and try to slip it out, whichever side is closer to the motor. This thing was super greasy and dirty.

-Now with everything out, clean the window guides. There was a lot of dirt down there. I made the mistake of putting everything back together before cleaning the guides, but yes clean them! Then wipe them down with silicone lube. The guides feel like smooth rubber, but there are some sharp ends inside the door.

-The new assembly goes in exactly the way the old one came out. Out of the box, I thought my motor was backwards, but I just had to twist it 180 degrees in relation to the cables and it was perfect. I slid the end of the regulator furthest away from the motor in first then carefully slip the motor behind the door panel as you fit the other end of the regulator in. There are lots of hooks for the motor so it makes life easy to hook it in then bolt down later.
-3 bolts for motor, 4 for regulator, then 2 for the window. Watch it go up and down for a little bit to make sure everything works properly. I ran the window a few times to make sure everything was perfect before all bolts were tight. There is a reset switch for the motor for the auto up. I didn't have to do anything with that. You might.

Aftermath:
Looking at my regulator, it was definitely due for replacement. Comparing both before I installed the new one, there was some lateral play in the old mechanism where as the new regulator had no play. However when I roll my window up with the new regulator the window still moves forward like the old one, but not as much. At about the same cost of a motor, I say it is worth it to replace the regulator and the motor together.

Hope this helps.