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o2 Simulator Install Needed

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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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o2 Simulator Install Needed

Hey, whats going on guys? I just had a set of Cattman headers installed in my 02 maxima and have a code for an o2 sensor since its not hooked up. Im looking for somebody who can install an o2 simulator thats in the northeast area. Send me a pm if you think you can do the install.
Old Oct 8, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by nselca2
Hey, whats going on guys? I just had a set of Cattman headers installed in my 02 maxima and have a code for an o2 sensor since its not hooked up. Im looking for somebody who can install an o2 simulator thats in the northeast area. Send me a pm if you think you can do the install.
Honestly you can install it yourself...they are VERY easy to install. Where did you get the O2 sim from? What part of Northeast are you in?
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:53 AM
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ELECTRONIC O2 SIMULATOR <click there





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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 05:37 AM
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Cal. Spec vs. Fed. Spec O2 Sensors

1st, I KNOW Cal Spec has 2 O2 Sensors downstream from the Pre-Cats, Fed Spec has 1 after the main Cat. I'm getting headers and won't have pre-cats anymore. On good recommendation (Brian (Cattman) Catts) the best solution for secondary O2 sensor SES codes, is to install the pre-cat O2 sensors after the main converter like a Fed Spec car. Can Fed Spec O2 sensors be used in place of Cal Spec O2 sensors? Instead of having to re-wire (lengthen) the Cal Spec sensors. I've got a bad one I plan to replace so might as well do both.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 06:31 AM
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just use the electronic dual output O2 sims....no need to weld and extend wires and all that mess. I did it and I have no codes....just wire them into the secondaries and zip tie them under the engine cover. It works, plenty members here done it.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
just use the electronic dual output O2 sims....no need to weld and extend wires and all that mess. I did it and I have no codes....just wire them into the secondaries and zip tie them under the engine cover. It works, plenty members here done it.
Thanks for the advice. Problem is I've read SO MANY conflicting reports on O2 Sims, some work some don't, it worked for a while and then got codes, I get this code but not that, use resistors, spark plug anti foulers, etc. etc. Even though it's not an easy/cheap solution, it's the most reliable solution. The ECU sees REAL O2 Sensors, monitoring a REAL Converter. No trying to trick the ECU BS!
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:09 AM
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My car has 2 o2 sensors in between the pre-cats and 1 o2 sensor on each manifold itself making it 4 altogether. The new headers have 3 o2 sensor bungs. 1 on each manifold and then 1 around the flex pipe area so im short 1 o2 sensor. Would I need a single or dual output simulator? Im in Ct, but id be willing to drive to have it installed since I need to break in the new clutch anyways.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
Thanks for the advice. Problem is I've read SO MANY conflicting reports on O2 Sims, some work some don't, it worked for a while and then got codes, I get this code but not that, use resistors, spark plug anti foulers, etc. etc. Even though it's not an easy/cheap solution, it's the most reliable solution. The ECU sees REAL O2 Sensors, monitoring a REAL Converter. No trying to trick the ECU BS!
I can personally tell you that it works. I have had them installed in my 02 Maxima for about 3 weeks and NO CODES at all. They work, no need making things more complicated putting holes in your exhaust and bungs. This is where I got my O2 sim from:

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769

You have to get the DUAL one. They work...trust me. I would not lie to you. I use them in my own car and no codes. Nothing. Even had a dude from Autozone plug in the OBD II scanner....didn't see anything in there.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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I have a dual output, electronic. Worked fine till I crushed the sensor. Too low.. We did fouler on one a car couple weeks ago, and it didn't work.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
I can personally tell you that it works. I have had them installed in my 02 Maxima for about 3 weeks and NO CODES at all. They work, no need making things more complicated putting holes in your exhaust and bungs. This is where I got my O2 sim from:

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769

You have to get the DUAL one. They work...trust me. I would not lie to you. I use them in my own car and no codes. Nothing. Even had a dude from Autozone plug in the OBD II scanner....didn't see anything in there.
Thanks again, I trust you. I'll consider it when the time comes, I'm just trying to be pro-active. I just want to see if you're code free for a longer duration. Even with everything stock, my flukey O2 sensor would throw a code every 2-3weeks or so. Keep me posted though.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
Thanks again, I trust you. I'll consider it when the time comes, I'm just trying to be pro-active. I just want to see if you're code free for a longer duration. Even with everything stock, my flukey O2 sensor would throw a code every 2-3weeks or so. Keep me posted though.
Cant get ryte just told you he had an O2 sim that worked fine......don't know how much longer you want to wait. If a code was going to come up it would have been up by now. If the search function was working you would be able to see people's experience with them........I tell you what...IF I pop a code...I will post here, if not, I wont.
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
Cant get ryte just told you he had an O2 sim that worked fine......don't know how much longer you want to wait. If a code was going to come up it would have been up by now. If the search function was working you would be able to see people's experience with them........I tell you what...IF I pop a code...I will post here, if not, I wont.
I don't even have the headers/y-pipe yet, waiting for delivery. It'll be a few weeks wait and I can recover some of the $$$ I spent on them. No point getting the sim/etc right now. Posting here if you get a code. Is perfect, I appreciate it. Otherwise, no news is good news!
Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
I can personally tell you that it works. I have had them installed in my 02 Maxima for about 3 weeks and NO CODES at all. They work, no need making things more complicated putting holes in your exhaust and bungs. This is where I got my O2 sim from:

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769

You have to get the DUAL one. They work...trust me. I would not lie to you. I use them in my own car and no codes. Nothing. Even had a dude from Autozone plug in the OBD II scanner....didn't see anything in there.
I have a dual electronic one since April 2010. I put a straight pipe on, headers and full exhaust. Put in the SIM, got rid of the CEL and passed emissions the next day with not a single cat : )
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 04:50 AM
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If the dual output sim is working and installed properly, you should have no issues. I had the same simulator on with headers for 5+ years, which included 3 emissions inspections and have had no issues.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tallation.html

And to the OP, please post a thread in the regional forums for this.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
If the dual output sim is working and installed properly, you should have no issues. I had the same simulator on with headers for 5+ years, which included 3 emissions inspections and have had no issues.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tallation.html

And to the OP, please post a thread in the regional forums for this.
The exact post I used to install my Sims...GREAT POST!!
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Bump, thanks for the help guys. Im still looking for someone who can install this for me. Looking to have it done this weekend so send me a pm if you think you could do it.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
If the dual output sim is working and installed properly, you should have no issues. I had the same simulator on with headers for 5+ years, which included 3 emissions inspections and have had no issues.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tallation.html

And to the OP, please post a thread in the regional forums for this.
Thanks for the info, are you talking about 5+yrs with no issues using this sim
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769
or another brand? I.E. O2 Simulators.com, Symtech Labs, etc. On which I've read mixed reviews. And why I'm a bit leery of getting an ineffective sim.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
Thanks for the info, are you talking about 5+yrs with no issues using this sim
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769
or another brand? I.E. O2 Simulators.com, Symtech Labs, etc. On which I've read mixed reviews. And why I'm a bit leery of getting an ineffective sim.
Man, they are all the same basically. It's a unit that takes one voltage and puts out a static different voltage. The voltage the O2 sensor is supposed to read when detecting good mixture. It's really not a highly complicated system, or they would not be able to sell it for 30 or so bucks.

It's a little bit more of a glorified version of the Knock Sensor bypass which is a 99 cent Radio shack resistor.

All the sensors are supposed to put out one signal when functioning properly. All that simulators do is statically putting out the signal that a "good" sensor sends out.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by McSteve
Man, they are all the same basically. It's a unit that takes one voltage and puts out a consistently, varying voltage within the specified range. The voltage the O2 sensor is supposed to read when detecting good mixture. It's really not a highly complicated system, or they would not be able to sell it for 30 or so bucks.

It's a little bit more of a glorified version of the Knock Sensor bypass which is a 99 cent Radio shack resistor, but a lot more complex than a static resistor.

All the sensors are supposed to put out one range of signal(s) when functioning properly. All that simulators do is emulate the varying signal that a "good" sensor sends out.
Fixed.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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haha...anyone else get this notice from 02simulator.com?

"Sorry, we are not accepting payments from your region at this time.
Please contact us for alternate arrangements.

Due to backlog we are temporarily stopping accepting new orders. Once backlog is processed new order placement will be resumed."

Any other suggestions guys???

Last edited by 00Lightsout; Oct 10, 2011 at 09:08 PM.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nelledge
Fixed.
+1, good edit : )

But all the installation involves is quick splicing a very few wires and wrapping it with electrical tape.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Lightsout
haha...anyone else get this notice from 02simulator.com?

"Sorry, we are not accepting payments from your region at this time.
Please contact us for alternate arrangements.

Due to backlog we are temporarily stopping accepting new orders. Once backlog is processed new order placement will be resumed."

Any other suggestions guys???
It's known that they are havining some issues...order from the other site posted...the 3SX site.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nelledge
Fixed.
I've studied the FSM and other sources here re; the O2 sensor output signal and you're correct. It's not static, but a sine wave that oscillates between certain voltage ranges. I've seen it with the graph function on my code reader while the car's running. If it goes over/under the acceptable range it triggers a code i.e. sensor2bank1 high voltage out of range, etc.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 04:07 PM
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Try plugging in the sensor into the harness and leaving them in the engine bay and see what that does.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
I've studied the FSM and other sources here re; the O2 sensor output signal and you're correct. It's not static, but a sine wave that oscillates between certain voltage ranges. I've seen it with the graph function on my code reader while the car's running. If it goes over/under the acceptable range it triggers a code i.e. sensor2bank1 high voltage out of range, etc.
Right. And when those voltage extents are consistently within the range defined by the primary O2 sensors, that implies the catalyst in the pre-cats is doing its thing.

I get all that. What I don't understand is the point of measuring exhaust here, when it's the main cat that does all the heavy lifting. It's like intently watching for foxes at the gate to the hen-house, but not really caring whether the hens are laying eggs... which is the whole point of owning chickens.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
...What I don't understand is the point of measuring exhaust here, when it's the main cat that does all the heavy lifting. It's like intently watching for foxes at the gate to the hen-house, but not really caring whether the hens are laying eggs... which is the whole point of owning chickens.
...that's awesome
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
It's known that they are havining some issues...order from the other site posted...the 3SX site.
3SX charges for shipping and already costs $10 more

my checkout total runs $64.82!! for $60 I could buy a universal compact ceramic cat for the y-pipe and have it R&R in 2hrs...just saying

maybe I'm just being cheap...but dual 02 sims shouldn't cost more than 02sim.com has them on retail for...best site and product for the price!

Last edited by 00Lightsout; Oct 11, 2011 at 04:26 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Lightsout
3SX charges for shipping and already costs $10 more
So it's $10 more than something else that you can't actually buy?

I think there's a lesson lurking in that observation.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
So it's $10 more than something else that you can't actually buy?

I think there's a lesson lurking in that observation.

hahaaa...I thought that very thing after I posted...or maybe I thought "supply & demand"

it's actually $25 more...but still, I need one!
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Lightsout
hahaaa...I thought that very thing after I posted...or maybe I thought "supply & demand"

it's actually $25 more...but still, I need one!
It's WELL worth it stop being cheap.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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Best solution, IMO, add 2 more bungs and plug them in.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Right. And when those voltage extents are consistently within the range defined by the primary O2 sensors, that implies the catalyst in the pre-cats is doing its thing.

I get all that. What I don't understand is the point of measuring exhaust here, when it's the main cat that does all the heavy lifting. It's like intently watching for foxes at the gate to the hen-house, but not really caring whether the hens are laying eggs... which is the whole point of owning chickens.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Best solution, IMO, add 2 more bungs and plug them in.
Which goes right back to my original question in this thread. Can 2 Fed. Spec. O2 sensors (long wires) be used instead of the 2 Cal. Spec Sensors (short wires)? Or are there other differences preventing that? Since putting the 2 secondary sensors downstream from the main cat was recommended to me by Cattman. As the BEST way to avoid pre-cat SES codes. Talk about a circular conversation!

Last edited by BobPezz; Oct 12, 2011 at 01:46 PM.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
putting the 2 secondary sensors downstream from the main cat was recommended to me by Cattman. As the BEST way to avoid pre-cat SES codes.
Geeze, that makes sense! You going to do this?
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Geeze, that makes sense! You going to do this?
I take Brian's advice VERY seriously. And I'm trying to be pro-active on a solution before delivery/having the headers/y-pipe installed. Since My car is Cal Spec, my idea is; if Fed Spec secondary sensors will work in place of the Cal Spec ones I won't have to mickey-fickey with lengthening the Cal Spec wires. Makes more sense to have the whole job done at once, with all new parts.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
I take Brian's advice VERY seriously. And I'm trying to be pro-active on a solution before delivery/having the headers/y-pipe installed. Since My car is Cal Spec, my idea is; if Fed Spec secondary sensors will work in place of the Cal Spec ones I won't have to mickey-fickey with lengthening the Cal Spec wires. Makes more sense to have the whole job done at once, with all new parts.
Good lord, Pezz, no one wants you to mickey-fickey.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Good lord, Pezz, no one wants you to mickey-fickey.
Absolutely, especially me! If I'm doing a major mod like this I want to do it right. I'm also wondering if having 4 legit sensors monitoring the mixture/main cat. Might give the ECU the information it needs to properly adjust the A/F mixture and prevent the rich condition some get after a header install. I think NmexMAX is using Cal Spec secondaries as primaries so why shouldn't Fed Spec secondaries work after the main cat?
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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After looking through the FSM technical 'stuff' on all 4 O2 sensors It appears they ALL give the same output signal. But the secondaries have a slower reaction time due to being downstream from the cat. This seems to imply, they're all the same except for the wires. Can anyone confirm/deny this for me?
Old Oct 15, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
After looking through the FSM technical 'stuff' on all 4 O2 sensors It appears they ALL give the same output signal. But the secondaries have a slower reaction time due to being downstream from the cat. This seems to imply, they're all the same except for the wires. Can anyone confirm/deny this for me?
I cannot confirm nor deny this, but it makes perfect sense with such a slight delay that is probably controlled by the ECU...I'm wanting to run one dual sim on the primaries, and one dual sim on the secondaries because of eventually eliminating the pre-cats. If the 02's give the same output signal, then they all should be able to be tricked with sims.

the difference between the primary and secondary 02 sensors should only be that the primaries do not use a heater(gray wire)...yes?

I fully agree with Brian. You could moved them just downstream to mimic a fed-spec by installing two 02 bungs immediately after the main cat. But you want to just use the Fed-spec y-pipe...so add on bung to your exhaust system after the main cat.
Old Oct 16, 2011 | 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Lightsout
I cannot confirm nor deny this, but it makes perfect sense with such a slight delay that is probably controlled by the ECU...I'm wanting to run one dual sim on the primaries, and one dual sim on the secondaries because of eventually eliminating the pre-cats. If the 02's give the same output signal, then they all should be able to be tricked with sims.

the difference between the primary and secondary 02 sensors should only be that the primaries do not use a heater(gray wire)...yes?

I fully agree with Brian. You could moved them just downstream to mimic a fed-spec by installing two 02 bungs immediately after the main cat. But you want to just use the Fed-spec y-pipe...so add on bung to your exhaust system after the main cat.
I'm not so sure it's a good idea to sim the primaries. Since they give the ECU A/F ratio info, unless they throw a code. Then the ECU switches to the secondaries to determine A/F ratio. With sims on both systems the ECU would probably think A/F is perfect (or messed up and go into limp mode) all the time regardless of what's really happening with the engine. It could run extremely lean/rich without the ECU having some kind of real A/F ratio info to control the injectors. I agree Brian gives excellent advice. Sims on the secondaries is the conventional wisdom to stop secondary SES codes. But again, only gives the ECU 1/2 the real info it needs to most accurately control the A/F ratio, for the reasons stated before. I'll be using Cattman Headers/Y-Pipe/Fastcat, so having 2 bungs/sensors after the main cat (to mimic Fed.Spec.). IMHO is the best way to go and allows the ECU to compensate for the Hi-Flow Converter. As far as which have heaters I don't know for sure, the FSM describes all 4 as "Heated O2 Sensors".

Last edited by BobPezz; Oct 16, 2011 at 05:30 AM.
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 03:08 AM
  #40  
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O2 SIMULATOR
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