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Cant pass emissions, help !

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Old 11-16-2011, 06:54 PM
  #41  
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Have you tried a new gas cap? Sometimes if the rubber around where the cap and the filler neck meets on the cap itself may become brittle and crack

Do you have a local Nissan dealership where you live or buy parts from at all? Sometimes if you stop in when it's not to busy you can try to talk to the shop foreman and explain to him what you have going on and they can try to pinpoint you in the right direction or may know why right off of the bat if they have seen it happen enough at the dealership over the years.

Just a thought
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:48 PM
  #42  
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I just replaced the gas tank and fuel filler neck on my maxima, the gas tank had rust by the fuel pump housing bracket and the fuel filler neck was cracked, **** design IMO.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:51 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 036mtmax
I passed mass inspection a few weeks ago with no horn,reverse lights and three cel codes,My friend at my dealership runs the sticker machine, You need too find yourself one of those too lol, There is always a way around everything man. Mass is strict too
keep that to yourself.
Some states you could serve time behind bars and extremly high fines!
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:15 PM
  #44  
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my gas cap rubber around the neck is pretty ragged looking.

Hope thats all it is. everything else looks good.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:08 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by sontakke
Buy a $30 code reader which tells you about I/M Readiness so you will know when to visit the emission place. You also alre allowed one "freebie" not-ready. If your car has a habbit of throwing CEL, you need to time it just to get it inspected.

Thank you for this info!

I have the Actron CP9135, but have only ever used it to read the codes - it was on sale and the cheapest I had seen. I see it has the I/M readiness, so now just need to figure out how to check the readiness of the monitors.

My '02 has recently been popping the EVAP code (small leak). Last time I cleared it, it came back within 15-20 miles.

Yesterday I removed the canister and shot some WD40 into the valve. After reading some of the other threads, I figured I would end up having to replace the whole thing. I couldn't remove the valve - 1 bolt came out, the other one just spun in place. Also snapped off 2 of the bolts that hold the canister in place - wasn't able to drill out the old bolts, so just put everything back together and reattached with nylon ties! [ghetto]

Anyway, I've driven it about 40 miles and the code hasn't come back yet. Also stopped and put gas in it, figured that cause the problem to come back for sure......so far so good.

This is a secondary car and rarely gets driven - less than 300 miles over the last 4 months My emissions is due this month, and I knew about the needing to drive it to reset the monitors, but was trying to figure out how much I needed to drive it. I guess I'll check the monitors and probably end up spending a weekend just driving around.
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