i have a viper 4204 that i installed yesterday. everything so far works except for 3 components that i have not been able to wire yet.

they are,

lock

unlock

brake shutdown

i know where i am "supposed" to wire these 3 in, but i cannot reach the brake switch to test which wire i need to connect to. does anyone know if this wire extends to a more reachable place?

next are the lock/unlock. i really dont want to mess with drilling holes in the car and door to extend into the door and tap the wires at the switch. i read i could jerry rig a solution at the bcm, but i dont know where it is or what it looks like in the 03. does anyone know if the lock and unlock can be triggered at the secu? maybe tapped somewhere around or behind the fuse panel?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I cant help with your issue, but remember that the Maxima has a PULSE lock/unlock. You will have to program the delay in the alarm.

 

door locks your going to have to just inline splice at the bcm the easy way or try the door hard way.there is a plastic plug right behind the door connector on the frame side the use a coat hanger to run it thru the rubber tube into the door.remember set alarm to double pulse to disarm and unlock.its the top wire on the brake switch reach back twist clockwise 90* pull it out.PITA i know also is you want defrost get a relay and hook to the defrost output line on the back of the switch.also you want to use real tach hookup hardwired not the virtual tach function because if you have the heat or ac on during remote start when the rpm spike the car will shut down and keep restarting.

 

any chance you know which wires they are on the bcm for the lock/unlock? i read that some models don't have a wire in the plug on the bcm for them.

and is it the red/green on the brake switch?

i was considering the defrost but couldn't find any info on which wire or pin on the temp control plug it is.

 

A better place to get the brake switch wire is in the driver kick panel...in a big harness that runs to the rear of the car.

The lock/unlock wires are better to get from inside the driver door at the window switch. It's better to get it there because you'll be locking/unlocking and arming/disarming the stock alarm both at the same time. You'll need to program the remote starter to "double pulse unlock", and attach the remote starters "disarm" wire(light green/black) to the "unlock" wire of the remote start system(blue). The reason why you do that is to prevent the stock alarm from being triggered when you pop the trunk, or remote start the car.

For the defrost function, you'll have to get the wire at the back of the climate control unit. No relay is necessary since it's a simple negative trigger. I can't remember off hand what the color is, but I know it works because I hooked it up on my 5.5. I also used an auxiliary output from the viper to activate the heated steering wheel while it's remote started.

 

i will go through the switch in the door for the lock/unlock.

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any chance you know the correct wire for the brake switch? found out today that i can drive the car without the key if remnote started because the brake shutdown isnt connected.. scary thought.
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^ no longer needed, i went for broke and tapped a wire i thought was it, started with remote, hit the brake and it shut off.. YAY!! it is the red wire with green stripe it the bundle under the kick panel.

i would like to use the rear defroster with my unit as it is a temp controled switch. on under 40 deg i think, off when above. i just dont know how to test for activation of the RD from the harness. i will research that one a bit more.

as for the arm/disarm.. for the 2003 max, it arms and disarms with lock and unlock. am i still attaching the lt. gr/black and the green/white to the lock and unlock wires in addition to the lock/unlock signal wires?

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edit:
found this on another site.. can i just connect the lock/unlock/disarm wires here?

Door Motor Lock Wire: gray
Door Motor Lock Wire Location: pin 54 at SECU [1]

Door Motor Unlock Wire: white/black
Door Motor Unlock Wire Location: pin 55 at SECU [1]

Disarm Wire: green/yellow
Disarm Wire Location: pin 56 at SECU [1]
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^ no dice on this one. connected the lock wire from the unit to the gray wire on the secu and it does not lock the doors. looks like im gonna have to go through the door for this one. im not even going to try to get to the BCM.

 

You can find tha break wire close to the firewall behind the kick panel. I believe it's red with green strips not sure on that but I will double check when I get home from school.

I installed my remote start about 2 months ago but I was not able to connect the trunk release. Could you please explain how to do that?

 

brake wire is done on my end.

for the trunk release you need a 30 amp relay.

85: your units trunk release trigger
86: +12v fused source
87: blue wire @ pin 16 of the SECU
30: Ground

 

Thanks for the info on the trunk release, here is a website that explains how to connect the lock/unlock. I used this and it helped me with everything but was confused with the trunk release.

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/viper791xv/</B>

 

If (as you should) hook the disarm and unlock to the disarm wire, you should not configure double pulse unlock but should configure unlock after disarm since the disarm will provide the first pulse of the two when pressing the unlock button.

 

I would recommend you do not drill into the door or door frame as suggested in the owens link. Yes it can be done properly to avoid water damage but it is not the best practice at all. The molex type plug in the door can be used and should be used. There is unused pin holes on the door connectors. I have ran my lock wires as well as 14 gauge speaker wire thru this plug. Im not gonna lie it is not easy at all but it is doable.

Another thing the guy in the owens link used t-taps. I would shy away from this. I have installed professionally for years and I am mecp advanced and ase a6 certified. I can tell you that t-taps are to blame for maybe about 80 percent of remote starts that have issues after a few years. The connections are never solid and only weaken over time. Rape and tape is the way I live my install life.

01max is 100 percent right about finding the brake wire in the driver kick to rear harness. It is the same color as it is at the brake pedal.

Curious what bypass module module you are using.

 

You will still need to attach those wires yes. The sole purpose of those connections is to prevent the remote starter from triggering the stock alarm system when you try to remote start the car. This is necessary because under normal circumstances, you won't be unlocking the vehicle before you remote start it....so making that connection just integrates the system better.

If you're having troubles getting wires into the driver door, it's actually quite simple. In all the maximas that I do (mine included), I usually run the 16gauge wire through a small boot that's sitting RIGHT next to the door harness. From the factory, there's nothing running through it yet, and it leads right into the cabin. From there, I run it along the harness that leads into the door, and then I poke a small hole at the base of that harness(you can do that because there's no molex plug on that end). From there, you're inside the door, and the hard work is done. You'll likely need to remove the speaker from the door to gain access to the wire while you're routing it in.

For trunk release, there is no need for any relays. On any 5th gen maxima, you can get the negative trunk release wire at the smart entrance control module. The color is BLUE. You can test this wire while tapping the trunk pop button on the driver door.

For a bypass module, I hope you're using a Fortin key override all, or something equivalent that's "self learning".

 

i went into the kick panel for the brake shutdown switch, piece of cake with that one.

i am using an xpresskit pkall for my bypass.

i followed the owens guide for the majority of my install, modifying things as needed, such as soldering all my connections instead of t-taps.

i have not done my lock/unlock yet as i dont know if i actually need to use the arm/disarm wires for my unit. without them spliced in i can start the car remotely and pop the trunk and the factory alarm doesnt go off.

03 max factory alarm arms with lock and disarms with unlock.
so my only question left is.. do i need the arm/disarm connected? or can i just do the lock/unlock?

one thing i am worried about is if the unit sends a disarm pulse, since first pulse unlocks drivers door, second pulse unlocks the rest, wouldnt that make the car unlock the drivers door? .

 

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you do need a relay for the trunk pop, as the unit only sends a -200ma signal and it is too weak to trigger the release.
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^ i am so sorry. i did a test and for my unit and car at least a relay is NOT needed. i kept mine wired in tho since it works eithor way and i already soldered those connections in.

my installation is now complete except for one thing.

does anyone know the correct wire on the back of the A/C control unit for the rear defroster?

 

The rear defrost is a green/red at the back of the climate control unit. It's a negative trigger, so no relay is needed. Make sure you test it to make sure you have the correct wire.

 

I am still struggling with the trunk release. I connected everything as listed from above but it's still not working. Could it be a bad relay? When I push the trunk release on the key fob it does nothing but when I touch an ohm meter to 85 or 86 terminals the trunk releases.

Any suggestions?

 

normally you have to hold the button on the remote for it to pop. which unit are you using?

 

I hold the button on the remote for 2-3 seconds and the picture showes the trunk is open but the trunk does not release. I am using the Avital 5303.

 

Test your Avital systems red/white trunk output wire to make sure you're getting a ground pulse when you activate the trunk release. If you are getting a proper ground output, then skip the whole relay thing. If you're installing this system on a 5th gen maxima, it's not needed. Connect that red/white wire directly to the smart entrance modules trunk release wire, and you should be good to go.

If you REALLY want to use the relay, it should be hooked up as follows:

PIN 86 +12volt constant
PIN 87 Chassis ground
PIN 85 Red/white trunk release wire from the Avital
PIN 30 Blue trunk release wire at the smart entrance module
PIN87a Not used

 

I will try this setup with the relay. I'm a little worried something will happen to the wiring if I go straight to the trunk release. The installation guide from avital says it could damage the module.

Thanks for the info.

 

^^ You will not damage the module. I'm an installer myself (I don't think I mentioned that before). I've been doing this setup for years now with NO ill effects from not using a relay. You just have to make sure you're using the right wire at the smart entrance module. It's a blue (Pin 16 negative) input. Test this wire for a ground while pulling on the trunk switch located on the driver door. This wire WILL NOT test by pushing the trunk button on the stock remote.
If you are using the thicker blue wire that tests when you push the trunk button on the stock remote, then you're not using the correct wire that I described above...in that case, you'll need the relay.

 

Thanks for the info. You being an installer gave me more confidence to connect the trunk trigger to pin 16.

 

^^ How did it work out?

 

^^ I have not tried it out yet, I have been at work all day, will be getting off in an hour and will let you know.

 

Dayum Nick

 

Nick, I did what you said with and without the relay and it's still not working. On the website from the owensfamily (step 24) it says to connect the blue "trunk trigger input to pin #7" color purple with yellow strip. I found that wire color but is pin #13 and I tapped into that. Could that be the problem?

 

what year is your maxima bro? Try this out:

Disconnect everything you've done so far that's related to trunk release. Find the blue wire on the smart entrance module (pin 16), and use a scrap piece of wire to ground it. See if the trunk pops open that way. If it does, then you definitely have the right wire at the module.

Now, you'll have to test that red/white trunk release wire on your avital. Using a test light, or multi-meter, make sure that you're getting a ground pulse when you activate the trunk release from the avital remote. If you don't get a ground pulse, then there's something wrong with that unit.

 

I have a 2001,

So I have the right blue wire from pin 16, the trunk triggers when I ground the blue wire. As for the red/white trunk release from the avital module, when I use the light test it does not light up at all. Is it supposed to light up then turn off when I pull the trunk release on the driver door?

 

If you're using a test light, you connect the alligator clip to any +12volt source...then probe the red/white wire (by itself....not connected to anything)

With the red/white wire attached to the probe of the test light...activate the trunk release with the avital remote (to activate it with the avital remote...press and HOLD the "aux" button for two seconds). No matter what, you SHOULD see that test light come on for a second or so once you activate that trunk release with the avital remote. If you don't, then there's something wrong with the avital brain.

I just realized that you didn't mention what system you are using....I assumed it was an Avital because that's what I read from the OP. Please clarify what make and model system you installed into your car.

 

i have read a few sites where the avital brains are not releasing the trunk. if the test light does NOT go on after testing the red/white wire with the remote, you will need a new brain.

 

i have a viper 4204, and he is using an avital 5303

 

^^ Oh ok....so they're more/less the same in terms of wiring. I'll wait till he gets back to me about the status of the red/white trunk release wire, and whether or not, it is functioning properly.

 

I tested the red/white wire with the light test and nothing, so I am guessing it is a bad brain. Don't really want to buy a new kit just for a brain I will have to suffer without it.

Thanks for all the input from everyone!!!

 

Not to bash you but please be cautious of the steps you include. I am also an installer and I am MECP Advanced (mobile electronics certified professional certified) as well as ASE (a6 electrical) certified.

In the situation where the blue wire you instructed to test ended up as the correct wire there would have been no damage. It is a best practice to never use a test light in a vehicle since the vehicle sensitive electronics could be damaged by the use of a test light and an air bag could even be deployed depending on the wire being tested. And the jumper wire is even a worse one to use. First of all a jumper wire without a fuse inline is a big no no. If you are testing and had the incorrect wire you may cause damage or an undesired result when jumping to ground or 12v. a test light would have the same result. If you jumped a line that deployed air bags and it wanted a negative or ground and you gave it that then boom there you go. Only a DIGITAL multimeter should be used when testing wires in a car.

I have been an installer for a while and I have witness other installers use jumper wires and test lights and have seen fried ecus as well as blown fusable links and other problems that has lead to big pay outs. Never have i used a test light in a car and never have i used a jumper wire to ground or 12v. I have no a single damage claim against me with what I would estimate at maybe 400 remote starters installed. Please be careful when working in a car and always use a digital multimeter.

 

^^ I agree. I take for granted sometimes that people aren't necessarily as experienced as I am. I have certain tricks, and tests that I use when I'm doing an installation on vehicles. Just little things that I've picked up on over the years. I've never had an ECU, BCM, airbag, etc fry on me before. I've been installing for almost 15 years now.

01Maximum, sorry to see that your trunk release output doesn't work. Do you have any warranty on that unit? If you do, they'll send you a new brain.

 

Agreed on the tips picked up along the way. Congrats on the lack of damage. Its a good feeling. Directed (avital,viper.....) warrenties the unit for life... I am not to sure if the stipulation is that it was purchase from an authorized dealer. I am pretty sure it must be professionally installed to receive the warrenty.

 

 

Yes, it's a nice feeling to not have any type of bad history with burning stuff lol. Not to say that I've never burned anything ever, as I did have my time for that. I'm all self-taught, and in my younger years (before I could drive), I would sit with a power-supply in my room, and mess around with all types of automotive components....lights, decks, amps, alarms, LEDs, etc. Experimenting for a long time in that type of environment is where I created my own disasters, and learned to fix/avoid them.

About the DEI warranty, I do also believe that it needs to be installed by an authorized dealer. I'd say go and purchase a new one....swap brains, and return it with the dead one...but they're smarter about that to. All new brains have seals over the harness inputs...and they won't return anything if those seals are broken.

 

In the case of my alarm warranty they hard code a serial number to the brain you can read it with the bitwriter.viper 5902 there exchanging mine for the 5904 due to a shock sensor issue they all have.

 

I absolutely despise that 5904 piece of garbage. The designers at DEI changed ALL the wiring harnesses on that brain. Different thickness of wire, duplicate colors...and the shock sensor is no longer built into the brain! The option to adjust its sensitivity is still on the remote, but obviously because the sensor is now external...you can't make use of that function. Other than that though....once installed into your car, you won't notice a difference. You will have to rewire your system though....it's not going to be a "plug and play" type of repair.