car- 2003 maxima 3.5 6spd

hey guys i have been reading the forums about cold air intakes and short ram intakes and i want a different intake for my car in the near future but all the types of intakes they talk about here on the org are no longer for sale or i am unable to find them.

i find a bunch of threads from years ago with types of intakes i cant even find online anymore, not for 2002-03 anymore, some examples are

frankencar intake
takeda intake
berk intake

i currently have a injen cold air intake and honestly i love the way it feels and sounds but im not too crazy about it being too low to the ground so i worry, im looking for a short ram intake so i dont worry anymore, i might even consider trading if someones got a nice new short ram intake, i juss purchased for $250 on ebay been installed for 2 weeks

give me some names of short ram intakes i can find for sale today 2012, i found a stillen intake but theres no pictures installed.

 

Modify the intake you currently have right now and make it a short ram.

 

this sounds like a good idea, any info anywhere on how to do this?

i was also looking for an intake that is 1 piece, i hate having the maf housing in between, looks bad, i wanna take out of my maf sensor and just install it into the intake, i've seen other cars like this.

 

The JWT pop charger is still for sale. Many people on the forums here like it. I've also heard one in person and it's pretty loud.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JWT-JIM-WOLF...item2c61c15151

 

i checked out that link, no installed pictures though, no idea what it looks like, does the filter just go to the maf housing ?

 

Hooks directly to the maf housing and will sit behind the battery.
Look at the last picture in this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...pretty-37.html

 

ok thats the right idea im talking about, its just that, it has no style at all. looks plain jane, any way to do that in style??

i found a picture on google of this

looks pretty bad ***, im looking for something like this for our 5.5 gen

this is my engine bay right now

 

All that Rods03 did was take off the stock airbox and attach the JWT pop charger to it. If you dont want the stock resonator in the setup, then your 'custom' intake will consist of the following from throttle body to filter:

Throttle Body--> Coupler (with 2 hose clamps) --> Midpipe--> Coupler (w/ clamps)--> MAF housing --> JWT pop charger.

If you do not want to use the JWT and want to use a dry flow filter such as AEM or Apex'i, after the MAF housing you will add a MAF adapter, coupler (again with clamps) then the filter. The filter should include the adapter that you would attach to the coupler.

 

Stock intake supports up to 247whp on an MT on a dynojet, if you want more than that, make your own.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

OK...I need to know where to get those plastic pieces that cover the upper strut mounts, power steering and coolant tank in the engine bay. That is HARD as heck!!!

Anyone know where to get those on a 5.5 gen?

 

My most recent setups. My last set up with K&N oiled filter.


My current setup with an AEM dry filter and 45 degree coupler to angle the filter toward the front.


Other than that, you can get an intake tube from Knight here on the forums. He. Makes them to eliminate the MAF housing and helmholtz.

 

How did u relocate ur battery like that? Im gonna ask knight about that maf housing too

 

There is a write up in the forums, just search key words: battery relocation. Very simple.

 

Like most cars built in the 'new' millenium, the Maxima doesn't actually benefit from 95% of the aftermarket intakes.

Claims made by companies are just that, claims. In actual practise, it's much more likely that you'll lose power with all of those intakes.

The best route is also the cheapest, remove all the stock baffles, make sure to leave a small water drain at the low point near the inlet, but the rest can go. You can use plexiglass and epoxy or rubber plugs to cover up the holes where you removed the baffling.

For the short piece from the Throttle body to the mid-pipe you'll need some sort of pipe the proper diameter that has two barbs/nipples coming off of it so you can still hook your vacuum and Crankcase vent lines up.

Before it's brought up, the reason I say 'new' cars don't benefit is because of much more intriquite tuning and sensors to control the engine more precisely. This helps build more power save gas and produce less emissions. Three huge things new engines must do.

Once you change that, increase the intake air temp (HUGE increse here with an SRI), and create turbulence at the MAFS intake screen, you effectively tamper with engine management, for the worse. The engine reads improper air incoming due to the turbulence, the increased temps retard timing which kills your power.

 

That's a 6th gen, ranmas2004. You know that, though.

A few years ago, rroderiques77 tried to mod the engine bay of his 5.5 gen Sin City Max with those panels... and gave up. Which is saying a lot, because that guy put everything he had into his car.

 

Well said!

 

Go big or go home, currently working on a 4" intake set-up.

 

deets and pics or it isn't happening

 

4" BPi stack
45º 4" Pipe
440's
Now I need a MAF housing and it should be done. Oh yeah and 2 intake manifold gaskets because removing that damn spacers and related RTV is for poop, going to just sack a gasket on top and bottom.

 

I used to have JWT on my factory hemholtz, then later add midpipe to that for some length.

Or you could find 6th gen factory tubing and add jwt to that.

 

440s being injectors>? Isn't that excessive for N/A?

 

Yes it is, but if going with a 4" intake, I'll need all the flow I can get with minimal adjustments via the AFC in order to maximize my timing.

Right now with the 3.25" intake, I'm zero % adjustment, and so my timing has taken a slight dip vs the time when I was using a 3" intake and was removing -10 - 12%, which netted a pretty good timing curve.

I figure when going with a 4" intake, and still needing to remove -12-14%, and still be in the 13.3 AFR range, I should be in good shape.

Although I know this wont be a linear 1:1 comparison, but right now I have 335's. So 440/335 = 1.313 And Right now I'm at optimal timing with a 3" intake, and want to upgrade to 4" , so 4/3 = 1.333.

Let's see how it all works out.

 

Seems way too big to me but I see what you're trying to do. What length?

 

Same as the old one.

I thought the same until I heard about the Altima guys doing it, and of course Surra's intake is 4" also.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/rac...yesterday.html

Pretty much this entire page outlines it:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...duction-7.html

From post # 253 onward.

 

If i relocate my battery like the 6th can i use the takeda intake for the 6th gen in my 5.5th gen? Like shown in the picture above

 

Looks that way, but remember the MAF sensor bolt pattern isn't the same, so your 5.5 gen MAF sensor might not bolt directly to the Takeda pipe, it might need some modification.

 

Hrrrmmmm interesting.......

I kind of disagree with running mafs-less, so what the heck do we do for a MAFS then. And for me especially I'll need one that won't pegg out once politely boosted.

 

Who said anything about running MAF'less?

I don't agree with that either.

Use a larger than stock size and you automatically, albeit a bit crudely, leave some latitude on the table for additional boost.

 

Here, read this:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...take-pipe.html

I got a BERK pipe from evasive motorsports. (Comes with 2 rubber couplings)
Got a MAF adapter from eBay
got one rubber coupling from AutoZone
Got the velocity stack
Got AEM dryflow with 6'' opening

total price right around $200

The intake is AWESOME!!!

 

Dynos?

 

Nope. I do feel a lack in the bottom end though, and it is hard to tell up top. It makes a wonderful sound but I am not sure of actual power gains if any. I do not plan on a dyno because I think it is worthless with just an intake. One of these days I do plan on the NWP spacers and some exhaust upgrades so maybe after that is done I will do a dyno

 

You didn't. Just know that some people do and use the MAP sensor instead.

Just curious what you were thinking of running fr a MAFS

 

I'm using my same MAF, just in a bigger housing.

Always smart to have a baseline.

 

Won't this destroy it's calibration?

And with that extreme of added air flow, even if it were calibrated for the new set-up, wouldn't it be likely that it'd pegg out?

Also curiousity about the TB, given a 4" intake and stock TB?

 

It is smart to do that but I am not going to care too much of what I push. I know the car is fast as it is. I am not a racer and I do not go to the track to measure tenths of seconds. Plus I can always stick the stock air box back in and run a quick dyno with it.

 

Rookie

 

Be gentle with me.

 

Larger diameter MAF housing = MAF is seeing FAR less airflow. In turn, this actually goes opposite of what you're thinking. i.e., a stock MAF can raise it potential ceiling by putting it in a larger housing.

Lager housing = lean AFR's.

I still have the stock TB, apparently there's this venturi thing people speak of. Also, cant_get_rye didn't see any gains with his 09TB.

SAFCII & the NEO (and of course UTEC/Haltech, etc) can scale the MAF, so that you don't have to make huge adjustments (add tons of fuel) while using a larger MAF.

In the past I ran 335cc injectors vs the stock 315cc injectors so I can gain a little timing from it. But I then went to a 3.5" MAF from a 3.0" MAF and was @ zero fuel corrections via my SAFCII. And from that I lost 4-6º timing all around. When using the 3" MAF I was -10-12% fuel correction and was at optimal timing.

So, my plan is now to use the 4" MAF with larger injectors and hopefully still be able to remove 10-12% fuel and still be at 13.0 or so AFR like I was when I logged my best timing curve.

My best timing curve:








My results from removing 4-6% fuel: Top = 3.5" intake, 13.5 AFR, 0% corr via SAFC, bottom = 3.0" intake, -4-6%, 12.5 AFR. Now you see where I'm going with this 4"/440's?



Famous quote:


Reference material.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...g-advance.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html

 

Thanks for taking the time to break this down for me Nmex.

I get that the MAFS reads lower due to being in a larger housing. That in turn lowers the delivered fuel, which results in a lean AFR condition. Is this right?

So you're correcting this by increasing fuel to compensate for the inaccurate MAFS reading?

The benefit to going to a larger housing with the Stock MAFS is that you get more Accurate Air flow readings (more linear) at higher flow (WOT)? Or is this jsut a good way to get around buying a new MAFS designed for the application?

And you're saying that the UTEC's can adjust for the improper MAFS reading, thusly allowing this MAFS to act as if it was one made for tuning (linear across a much broader range).

And still reading your links, thanks for those. I'm trying to figure out what you mean by pulling fuel.

 

to the OP, remove the pipe after the coupler at the greenish arrow and put your filter there