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bad mpg on a 2001 maxima

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Old 06-30-2012, 11:21 AM
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bad mpg on a 2001 maxima

hi

i know this has been done to death, but ive read alot of the posts,,and done dam near everything to figure out why im wasting so much gas,, im getting 13 mpg in my 2001 maxima.. ive changed everything people said on this forum. and now i just dont know where else to go, everything looks fine.. no codes. runs great. but im literally getting 13 mpg once i calculate it, so im hoping someone knows what i can do from here..fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter.. vacuum test. fuel pressure test. checked the o2 sensors. im not maf is good. i dont know what coul be wrong...any help would be great. i dont want to trash this car. i used to get over 20 mpg but the last 2 years shot it down to 13...

thanks in advance

jeff
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:25 AM
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Are you running premium fuel from a high-end gas station? Also, try pulling the battery and resetting the computer. Maybe it just needs to go back to default.
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:12 PM
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How many miles is on the car, and on the Maf what are you saying your not sure its good, or what...didnt understand ......
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:28 PM
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ok now ive got an even bigger problem..i did the fuel filter yesterday...and there was a small o-ring that im not sure where it belonged..but my car shut off today and it seems like its n ot getting enough pressure for gas..i need help asap...as it is stranded in some neighbor hood....anyone know where the small o ring goes? im not sure why the car shut off
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:46 PM
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what o-ring and where did it come from? No o ring for the filter that im aware of. Sure you put the filter in the right direction? Possibly the hose is not on all the way so fuel pressure is low
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
what o-ring and where did it come from? No o ring for the filter that im aware of. Sure you put the filter in the right direction? Possibly the hose is not on all the way so fuel pressure is low
well thats where my problem is,,i put it underneath the grommet tht goes into the filter
(stupid me) i found it in the pan that i used with the pump its a very small o ring. maybe it was in there already? but thats hard to beleave..im not sure
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Galactica
Are you running premium fuel from a high-end gas station? Also, try pulling the battery and resetting the computer. Maybe it just needs to go back to default.
i run 93 octane from mobil////ill try the reset when i get the car running again
Originally Posted by Rods03Max619
How many miles is on the car, and on the Maf what are you saying your not sure its good, or what...didnt understand ......
135 thousand. and sorry, the maf is fine there is not problems with it..we tested it at my school and looks to be good to go
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
what o-ring and where did it come from? No o ring for the filter that im aware of. Sure you put the filter in the right direction? Possibly the hose is not on all the way so fuel pressure is low
how is the filter supposed to go?
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:39 PM
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as for mpg, just because the car is not throwing any codes, it could still be a bad maf.

as for the fuel filter, what filter did you use? the only oring involved when changing out the filter is the huge one for the assembly to the gas tank. I would pull the assembly out and just make sure all the hoses are connected and none of them popped out.
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:43 PM
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Click here might find what you are looking for on the O ring...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1978.html
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:43 PM
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I get 12 mpg at best......10 mpg usually. I drive in city, stop and go stop and go....this is the best you can get. Be happy you are getting 13.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:54 PM
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District is flat out wrong.

I do nothing but stop and go, maybe total 30 miles on freeway per tank, and I average 19MPG.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
District is flat out wrong.

I do nothing but stop and go, maybe total 30 miles on freeway per tank, and I average 19MPG.
Im with you on that like 19-22 in the city but I be Flying, a Joy to drive, **** that 10-12 **** aint no Lambo.....
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:07 PM
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lmao @ be lucky you get 13 mpg,..... wtf.

Things that can cause your car to get that crappy fuel mileage are almost always sensors.

Intake Temp sensor
MAFS
MAP sensor
Knock Sensor
02 Sensors

Every one of those can be faulty to some extent and not throw a definate code.
And the MAFS, Knock, and 02 sensors can't really be tested effectively without CONSULT II or something equivant, and even then you need someone very knowledgable to interpret the numbers they're seeing.

Have you had any past codes come up and 'fix themselves'? Or any recent codes at all?

Did you scan for codes even though you don't have an engine light? You can have stored codes present that might answer this question.

Nothing like air filters or spark plugs is going to cause 13 MPG without a code present.

Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 06-30-2012 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fd3rew
as for mpg, just because the car is not throwing any codes, it could still be a bad maf.

as for the fuel filter, what filter did you use? the only oring involved when changing out the filter is the huge one for the assembly to the gas tank. I would pull the assembly out and just make sure all the hoses are connected and none of them popped out.
i am in school for mechanics,,,and my teachers and i have done tests,,including testing the maf..it tests out fine. the numbers come normal compared to all data and mitchels. im not sure which way the filter is supposed to go but tomaqrrow im going in to take out that o ring as i think the pressure just isnt there..

Originally Posted by Rods03Max619
Click here might find what you are looking for on the O ring...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1978.html
thanks
accourding to this that small o ring dont belong...but i still dont know where it came from which i why im puzzled...
Originally Posted by District
I get 12 mpg at best......10 mpg usually. I drive in city, stop and go stop and go....this is the best you can get. Be happy you are getting 13.
im not happy im getting 13 ,,u can be happy with what u get. but i should be getting much more then this
Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
District is flat out wrong.

I do nothing but stop and go, maybe total 30 miles on freeway per tank, and I average 19MPG.
i do highway mostly 90 percent of the day....i still get 13.
Originally Posted by Rods03Max619
Im with you on that like 19-22 in the city but I be Flying, a Joy to drive, **** that 10-12 **** aint no Lambo.....
my 2010 camaro gets 13 mpg,,and thats with all the modifications ive done....the max shouldnt be coming close to 13...id like atleast 25 mpg
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
lmao @ be lucky you get 13 mpg,..... wtf.

Things that can cause your car to get that crappy fuel mileage are almost always sensors.

Intake Temp sensor
MAFS
MAP sensor
Knock Sensor
02 Sensors

Every one of those can be faulty to some extent and not throw a definate code.
Have you had any past codes come up and 'fix themselves'? Or any recent codes at all?

Did you scan for codes even though you don't have an engine light? You can have stored codes present that might answer this question.
no codes in atleast a year. and yes ive scanned for codes many many many times, infact when my car shut off today i got no codes....we have check the sensors there putting out the right signals. and not doing anything erratic. never had a code that would shut off on me..
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:28 PM
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How are you checking the sensors? Conditions and test equipment?
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
How are you checking the sensors? Conditions and test equipment?
snap-on makes a really great computer that allows you to see the signals of each sensor......great product...then printed up the stats for each sensor,,,and what conditions it needs to be under in order for it to perform correctly
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:38 PM
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Not sure if its been mentioned, but check all the brake calipers. They commonly seize on the older maximas and once your brakes start dragging you start losing MPG.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyutyunnik
Not sure if its been mentioned, but check all the brake calipers. They commonly seize on the older maximas and once your brakes start dragging you start losing MPG.
thanks

i actually recently did my brakes and \rotors there all good to go.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:34 AM
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any intake leaks?


tire pressures?


weight of the car?



how big is the o ring that you dont know where it goes?
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffny09
snap-on makes a really great computer that allows you to see the signals of each sensor......great product...then printed up the stats for each sensor,,,and what conditions it needs to be under in order for it to perform correctly
That's good, but doesn't answer my question.

These sensors must be checked during normal operation. ie. driving the car while someone else monitors or you datalog.

You must monitor all conditions and compare readings to those conditions. (air temperature, engine temp, load, etc)

Testing sensors while off the car, or with the car idling does work in some instances if you have a completely failed sensor. But a completely failed sensor will almost always throw a code (most sensors)

The only sensor you can actually check off the car accurately is the Temp sensor. You can change the temp around the sensor with a hair dryer or whatever and monitor changes in it's output/resistance. And compare those to proper specs at differnet given temps.

Mass air flow (load) cannot be checked accurately under idle or revving up with no load. You need a dyno or to physically drive it to do this accurately.

Also the Knock Sensors on our car were infamous for this exact issue on the 1995-1999 version. There was some serious updating done to fix this common issue on the 2000/2001 but there's still potential for it's failure.
removing the Knock sensor and closely inspecting it for a cracked housing might not be a horrible idea, given that you're mechanically inclined.

The Knock sensor is another great example of a sensor that doesn't really test well static, unless it's failed completely

Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 07-01-2012 at 06:45 AM.
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Amave
any intake leaks?


tire pressures?


weight of the car?



how big is the o ring that you dont know where it goes?
we did a smoke test,vacuum test, no leaks at all . weight of the car ..with what it comes stock. nothing extra in there. tire pressure is good

Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
That's good, but doesn't answer my question.

These sensors must be checked during normal operation. ie. driving the car while someone else monitors or you datalog.

You must monitor all conditions and compare readings to those conditions. (air temperature, engine temp, load, etc)

Testing sensors while off the car, or with the car idling does work in some instances if you have a completely failed sensor. But a completely failed sensor will almost always throw a code (most sensors)

The only sensor you can actually check off the car accurately is the Temp sensor. You can change the temp around the sensor with a hair dryer or whatever and monitor changes in it's output/resistance. And compare those to proper specs at differnet given temps.

Mass air flow (load) cannot be checked accurately under idle or revving up with no load. You need a dyno or to physically drive it to do this accurately.

Also the Knock Sensors on our car were infamous for this exact issue on the 1995-1999 version. There was some serious updating done to fix this common issue on the 2000/2001 but there's still potential for it's failure.
removing the Knock sensor and closely inspecting it for a cracked housing might not be a horrible idea, given that you're mechanically inclined.

The Knock sensor is another great example of a sensor that doesn't really test well static, unless it's failed completely
sorry. we did take it for a 20 mile drive in cool tempertures and in hot tempertures while the computer was hooked up, we looked at all the possible causes while driving. i will take a look at the knock sensor. ive been meaning to do that. just have to find it! cheapest place to buy a knock sensor is where? and if u can give me the location of where it is in the car ill take it off and inspect it, and will prob end up replacing it anyhow. i check some of the sensors at idle at a certain rpm range then we checked them while driving the car on the highway...
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:12 AM
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I have a 04 I35 (basically a maxima), and since I bought it, the best I got was 14mpg local and 18 highway. I got no cel and no pending codes. I only use premium. I am very interested in the outcome of this. I figured this was normal for these cars. And for the knock sensor, I did one on a 97 altima and it was a *****. Hope it is easier on these cars, good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuffstylez
I have a 04 I35 (basically a maxima), and since I bought it, the best I got was 14mpg local and 18 highway. I got no cel and no pending codes. I only use premium. I am very interested in the outcome of this. I figured this was normal for these cars. And for the knock sensor, I did one on a 97 altima and it was a *****. Hope it is easier on these cars, good luck and keep us posted.
It's a little easier on the VQ. I've done WAY too many KA knock sensors, and it doesn't matter if it's in the 240, Altima, Xterra, or the Frontier, they're always tucked away and very hard to get to. They're a bit more out in the open on the VQ, and there's at least a little bit of room to work with.

As for the gas mileage discussion, I would be VERY displeased with 12-13 mpg. The Maxima would have sold terribly if it got that kind of fuel mileage while the Accord, Camry, and Avalon all got much better fuel mileage. I'm very happy with my Maxima's gas mileage. I do a lot of highway/country road driving to and from home/work (220 miles one way), and I get ~37 mpg. That's according to the trip calculation and my own when I wasn't sure it was right.

These cars are capable of getting pretty good gas mileage if you drive it right and everything's in good working order.

-Nathan
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dfj240
and I get ~37 mpg. That's according to the trip calculation and my own when I wasn't sure it was right.
No you don't. 27 maybe
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffny09
. i will take a look at the knock sensor. ive been meaning to do that. just have to find it!
It's a bit of a pita on the 95-01, but it looks really easy in this pic

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There's a few hundred DIY's on it most of them are in the 4th gen section.

Originally Posted by jeffny09
cheapest place to buy a knock sensor is where? and if u can give me the location of where it is in the car ill take it off and inspect it, and will prob end up replacing it anyhow.
Who i'd probably get it from:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:21 PM
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well i fixed my pump today,,,stupid fuel feed line cam off the filter. so i uised some hose clamps to keep it on
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
It's a bit of a pita on the 95-01, but it looks really easy in this pic



There's a few hundred DIY's on it most of them are in the 4th gen section.



Who i'd probably get it from:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/
is that pic showing that the sensor is in the intake manifold?
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
No you don't. 27 maybe
Nope. Lol. No typo. My car's running pretty lean, and I have a very light foot. On my last trip in the car, I had to run from Oakdale, LA to Dallas, TX and got 632 miles on that tank and filled up 17.5-18 gallons. Once my car has some power again and isn't running like a turd then it will probably drop back down, but for now I'm soaking it up. Lol.

It may get ridiculous gas mileage, but it's not nearly as fun to drive as everyone else's right now.

-Nathan
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffny09
is that pic showing that the sensor is in the intake manifold?
mounted directly to the engine block. in the center of the "V"

Socket & Wobble method:



Wrench/prybar method:

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Old 07-01-2012, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dfj240
Nope. Lol. No typo. My car's running pretty lean, and I have a very light foot. On my last trip in the car, I had to run from Oakdale, LA to Dallas, TX and got 632 miles on that tank and filled up 17.5-18 gallons. Once my car has some power again and isn't running like a turd then it will probably drop back down, but for now I'm soaking it up. Lol.

It may get ridiculous gas mileage, but it's not nearly as fun to drive as everyone else's right now.

-Nathan
if that's true, that's scary.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by District
I get 12 mpg at best......10 mpg usually. I drive in city, stop and go stop and go....this is the best you can get. Be happy you are getting 13.
What the F are you driving? Be happy to get 13mpg?
I average 22-24mpg with 70%-80% city driving. Let me tell you, traffic in a big city is not pleasant. Mods? Just a stillen y-pipe.

Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
District is flat out wrong.

I do nothing but stop and go, maybe total 30 miles on freeway per tank, and I average 19MPG.
This sounds more reasonable.

As for the OP, good luck.
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
if that's true, that's scary.
Yea, I hate it to be honest. I'd rather have my horsepower back. 37 mpg isn't a fair trade for a car that runs like trash. Lol.

Although, even while running similar to how it does now it only got about 29 mpg before I changed out plugs, coils, oil change, o2 sensors, and all that trying to get it running right.

It shot up after I did all that, plus my foot has lost quite a few pounds since my daughter was born. Lol.

-Nathan
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
mounted directly to the engine block. in the center of the "V"

Socket & Wobble method:



Wrench/prybar method:

so its in the same spot then?? mine was never replaced in as long as i had it,,,put 100,000 miles on the car bought it with 35

doesnt look to hard.....
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:37 PM
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my next question is..how does the knock sensor make the car waste more gas??
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffny09
my next question is..how does the knock sensor make the car waste more gas??
The knock sensor basically controls the timing of detonation in the cylinders. If the KS detects knock, it will retard the timing, if it is not working right and not giving the car the proper signals, the car will not run at its peak efficiency. Car not running at its peak efficiency=low gas mileage. Proper KS operation=peak efficiency=good gas mileage.

^^That's a giant OVERsimplicifcation of how it works, but the basic premise is right.

For more info, read below, form the Infiniti Q45 forums:
Simple they are piezoelectric microphones, which are gated on [alternate banks] for approximately 20 degrees of rotation every 90 degrees.........to listen for abnormal sounds which occur with spark knock [spark fires at 20-40 degrees before TDC and max pressure occurs at 17 degrees AFTER TDC.

A sound of ~~ 2-5KHz that occurs in the -15 to _+5 degree ATC position of EACH cylinder] is a knock. The frequency spectrum [from the microphones] is shaped and filtered by software to ignore other frequencies.

The sounds are accumulated as a voltage rise on 2 separate capacitors which continuously discharge [at a rate based on rpm].........knock counts per second.

This voltage is used by ecu to subtract ignation advance from a maximum number.......no knocks no subtraction and ignition advance is maximum preprogrammed value.

The are 2 x 2 accumulators [long term ones for those using regular fuel to sense all those extra knocks] and reset maximum to 2,3,4 less degrees vs short term to sense extra that average knocks.


Tricky to decide average vs peak vs rpm vs load and the knock sensors/ecu run out of calculation time as rpm increases with old style non obd2 ecu [90-95 models] so it gives up and just retards -3.........but this is set into software for WOT with RPM above 5,000.

So the knock sensors don't offer any protection above 4,000 rpm.

As engine ages noises increase from wear and knock sensors may get fooled.

Why you study WOT advance numbers to look for anomolies. Does the 6,000 rpm advance get to -28 degrees is the clue.

As KS age the sensitvity vs frequency curve changes from heat cracks etc.

As new knock control requires as new KS.......why they get changed every 100k.

A better more expensive way is to measure each cylinders peak pressure during combustion......what's used on race cars to set individual cylinder timing [ignition advance for each individual spark plug firing].
http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-do-kn...k-t125199.html

Last edited by Amerikaner83; 07-01-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:02 PM
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He would be getting terrible performance, though, if the knock sensor is to blame (although he could have more than one problem).

Until the maf is replaced, there's no point in theorizing anything. Idk why people think you can test them. It just doesn't work that way unless you were incredibly analytical and could compare directly to another car operating under the same parameters as yours.
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffny09
well i fixed my pump today,,,stupid fuel feed line cam off the filter. so i uised some hose clamps to keep it on

sounds like you bought a beck/arnely filter........
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:33 PM
  #40  
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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When i'm driving slowly, as in completely cruising on the highway (75mph) using Premium, I get 25-27 MPG. When i'm doing mostly city, i get 20-22. (this is after rear o2 sensors) Before new o2's it was about 24 Highway, and 19 City. Replace your O2's and MOST IMPORTANTLY, your MAF. I'm sorry if you already stated that you replaced it earlier, My stupid Phone won't load the page properly.
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Quick Reply: bad mpg on a 2001 maxima



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