bad mpg on a 2001 maxima
#1
bad mpg on a 2001 maxima
hi
i know this has been done to death, but ive read alot of the posts,,and done dam near everything to figure out why im wasting so much gas,, im getting 13 mpg in my 2001 maxima.. ive changed everything people said on this forum. and now i just dont know where else to go, everything looks fine.. no codes. runs great. but im literally getting 13 mpg once i calculate it, so im hoping someone knows what i can do from here..fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter.. vacuum test. fuel pressure test. checked the o2 sensors. im not maf is good. i dont know what coul be wrong...any help would be great. i dont want to trash this car. i used to get over 20 mpg but the last 2 years shot it down to 13...
thanks in advance
jeff
i know this has been done to death, but ive read alot of the posts,,and done dam near everything to figure out why im wasting so much gas,, im getting 13 mpg in my 2001 maxima.. ive changed everything people said on this forum. and now i just dont know where else to go, everything looks fine.. no codes. runs great. but im literally getting 13 mpg once i calculate it, so im hoping someone knows what i can do from here..fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter.. vacuum test. fuel pressure test. checked the o2 sensors. im not maf is good. i dont know what coul be wrong...any help would be great. i dont want to trash this car. i used to get over 20 mpg but the last 2 years shot it down to 13...
thanks in advance
jeff
#4
ok now ive got an even bigger problem..i did the fuel filter yesterday...and there was a small o-ring that im not sure where it belonged..but my car shut off today and it seems like its n ot getting enough pressure for gas..i need help asap...as it is stranded in some neighbor hood....anyone know where the small o ring goes? im not sure why the car shut off
#5
what o-ring and where did it come from? No o ring for the filter that im aware of. Sure you put the filter in the right direction? Possibly the hose is not on all the way so fuel pressure is low
#6
(stupid me) i found it in the pan that i used with the pump its a very small o ring. maybe it was in there already? but thats hard to beleave..im not sure
#7
135 thousand. and sorry, the maf is fine there is not problems with it..we tested it at my school and looks to be good to go
#8
#9
as for mpg, just because the car is not throwing any codes, it could still be a bad maf.
as for the fuel filter, what filter did you use? the only oring involved when changing out the filter is the huge one for the assembly to the gas tank. I would pull the assembly out and just make sure all the hoses are connected and none of them popped out.
as for the fuel filter, what filter did you use? the only oring involved when changing out the filter is the huge one for the assembly to the gas tank. I would pull the assembly out and just make sure all the hoses are connected and none of them popped out.
#10
Click here might find what you are looking for on the O ring...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1978.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1978.html
#13
#14
lmao @ be lucky you get 13 mpg,..... wtf.
Things that can cause your car to get that crappy fuel mileage are almost always sensors.
Intake Temp sensor
MAFS
MAP sensor
Knock Sensor
02 Sensors
Every one of those can be faulty to some extent and not throw a definate code.
And the MAFS, Knock, and 02 sensors can't really be tested effectively without CONSULT II or something equivant, and even then you need someone very knowledgable to interpret the numbers they're seeing.
Have you had any past codes come up and 'fix themselves'? Or any recent codes at all?
Did you scan for codes even though you don't have an engine light? You can have stored codes present that might answer this question.
Nothing like air filters or spark plugs is going to cause 13 MPG without a code present.
Things that can cause your car to get that crappy fuel mileage are almost always sensors.
Intake Temp sensor
MAFS
MAP sensor
Knock Sensor
02 Sensors
Every one of those can be faulty to some extent and not throw a definate code.
And the MAFS, Knock, and 02 sensors can't really be tested effectively without CONSULT II or something equivant, and even then you need someone very knowledgable to interpret the numbers they're seeing.
Have you had any past codes come up and 'fix themselves'? Or any recent codes at all?
Did you scan for codes even though you don't have an engine light? You can have stored codes present that might answer this question.
Nothing like air filters or spark plugs is going to cause 13 MPG without a code present.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 06-30-2012 at 06:10 PM.
#15
as for mpg, just because the car is not throwing any codes, it could still be a bad maf.
as for the fuel filter, what filter did you use? the only oring involved when changing out the filter is the huge one for the assembly to the gas tank. I would pull the assembly out and just make sure all the hoses are connected and none of them popped out.
as for the fuel filter, what filter did you use? the only oring involved when changing out the filter is the huge one for the assembly to the gas tank. I would pull the assembly out and just make sure all the hoses are connected and none of them popped out.
Click here might find what you are looking for on the O ring...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1978.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1978.html
accourding to this that small o ring dont belong...but i still dont know where it came from which i why im puzzled...
my 2010 camaro gets 13 mpg,,and thats with all the modifications ive done....the max shouldnt be coming close to 13...id like atleast 25 mpg
#16
lmao @ be lucky you get 13 mpg,..... wtf.
Things that can cause your car to get that crappy fuel mileage are almost always sensors.
Intake Temp sensor
MAFS
MAP sensor
Knock Sensor
02 Sensors
Every one of those can be faulty to some extent and not throw a definate code.
Have you had any past codes come up and 'fix themselves'? Or any recent codes at all?
Did you scan for codes even though you don't have an engine light? You can have stored codes present that might answer this question.
Things that can cause your car to get that crappy fuel mileage are almost always sensors.
Intake Temp sensor
MAFS
MAP sensor
Knock Sensor
02 Sensors
Every one of those can be faulty to some extent and not throw a definate code.
Have you had any past codes come up and 'fix themselves'? Or any recent codes at all?
Did you scan for codes even though you don't have an engine light? You can have stored codes present that might answer this question.
#18
snap-on makes a really great computer that allows you to see the signals of each sensor......great product...then printed up the stats for each sensor,,,and what conditions it needs to be under in order for it to perform correctly
#20
#22
These sensors must be checked during normal operation. ie. driving the car while someone else monitors or you datalog.
You must monitor all conditions and compare readings to those conditions. (air temperature, engine temp, load, etc)
Testing sensors while off the car, or with the car idling does work in some instances if you have a completely failed sensor. But a completely failed sensor will almost always throw a code (most sensors)
The only sensor you can actually check off the car accurately is the Temp sensor. You can change the temp around the sensor with a hair dryer or whatever and monitor changes in it's output/resistance. And compare those to proper specs at differnet given temps.
Mass air flow (load) cannot be checked accurately under idle or revving up with no load. You need a dyno or to physically drive it to do this accurately.
Also the Knock Sensors on our car were infamous for this exact issue on the 1995-1999 version. There was some serious updating done to fix this common issue on the 2000/2001 but there's still potential for it's failure.
removing the Knock sensor and closely inspecting it for a cracked housing might not be a horrible idea, given that you're mechanically inclined.
The Knock sensor is another great example of a sensor that doesn't really test well static, unless it's failed completely
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 07-01-2012 at 06:45 AM.
#23
That's good, but doesn't answer my question.
These sensors must be checked during normal operation. ie. driving the car while someone else monitors or you datalog.
You must monitor all conditions and compare readings to those conditions. (air temperature, engine temp, load, etc)
Testing sensors while off the car, or with the car idling does work in some instances if you have a completely failed sensor. But a completely failed sensor will almost always throw a code (most sensors)
The only sensor you can actually check off the car accurately is the Temp sensor. You can change the temp around the sensor with a hair dryer or whatever and monitor changes in it's output/resistance. And compare those to proper specs at differnet given temps.
Mass air flow (load) cannot be checked accurately under idle or revving up with no load. You need a dyno or to physically drive it to do this accurately.
Also the Knock Sensors on our car were infamous for this exact issue on the 1995-1999 version. There was some serious updating done to fix this common issue on the 2000/2001 but there's still potential for it's failure.
removing the Knock sensor and closely inspecting it for a cracked housing might not be a horrible idea, given that you're mechanically inclined.
The Knock sensor is another great example of a sensor that doesn't really test well static, unless it's failed completely
These sensors must be checked during normal operation. ie. driving the car while someone else monitors or you datalog.
You must monitor all conditions and compare readings to those conditions. (air temperature, engine temp, load, etc)
Testing sensors while off the car, or with the car idling does work in some instances if you have a completely failed sensor. But a completely failed sensor will almost always throw a code (most sensors)
The only sensor you can actually check off the car accurately is the Temp sensor. You can change the temp around the sensor with a hair dryer or whatever and monitor changes in it's output/resistance. And compare those to proper specs at differnet given temps.
Mass air flow (load) cannot be checked accurately under idle or revving up with no load. You need a dyno or to physically drive it to do this accurately.
Also the Knock Sensors on our car were infamous for this exact issue on the 1995-1999 version. There was some serious updating done to fix this common issue on the 2000/2001 but there's still potential for it's failure.
removing the Knock sensor and closely inspecting it for a cracked housing might not be a horrible idea, given that you're mechanically inclined.
The Knock sensor is another great example of a sensor that doesn't really test well static, unless it's failed completely
#24
I have a 04 I35 (basically a maxima), and since I bought it, the best I got was 14mpg local and 18 highway. I got no cel and no pending codes. I only use premium. I am very interested in the outcome of this. I figured this was normal for these cars. And for the knock sensor, I did one on a 97 altima and it was a *****. Hope it is easier on these cars, good luck and keep us posted.
#25
I have a 04 I35 (basically a maxima), and since I bought it, the best I got was 14mpg local and 18 highway. I got no cel and no pending codes. I only use premium. I am very interested in the outcome of this. I figured this was normal for these cars. And for the knock sensor, I did one on a 97 altima and it was a *****. Hope it is easier on these cars, good luck and keep us posted.
As for the gas mileage discussion, I would be VERY displeased with 12-13 mpg. The Maxima would have sold terribly if it got that kind of fuel mileage while the Accord, Camry, and Avalon all got much better fuel mileage. I'm very happy with my Maxima's gas mileage. I do a lot of highway/country road driving to and from home/work (220 miles one way), and I get ~37 mpg. That's according to the trip calculation and my own when I wasn't sure it was right.
These cars are capable of getting pretty good gas mileage if you drive it right and everything's in good working order.
-Nathan
#27
There's a few hundred DIY's on it most of them are in the 4th gen section.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/
#29
It's a bit of a pita on the 95-01, but it looks really easy in this pic
There's a few hundred DIY's on it most of them are in the 4th gen section.
Who i'd probably get it from:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/
There's a few hundred DIY's on it most of them are in the 4th gen section.
Who i'd probably get it from:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/
#30
Nope. Lol. No typo. My car's running pretty lean, and I have a very light foot. On my last trip in the car, I had to run from Oakdale, LA to Dallas, TX and got 632 miles on that tank and filled up 17.5-18 gallons. Once my car has some power again and isn't running like a turd then it will probably drop back down, but for now I'm soaking it up. Lol.
It may get ridiculous gas mileage, but it's not nearly as fun to drive as everyone else's right now.
-Nathan
It may get ridiculous gas mileage, but it's not nearly as fun to drive as everyone else's right now.
-Nathan
#31
#32
Nope. Lol. No typo. My car's running pretty lean, and I have a very light foot. On my last trip in the car, I had to run from Oakdale, LA to Dallas, TX and got 632 miles on that tank and filled up 17.5-18 gallons. Once my car has some power again and isn't running like a turd then it will probably drop back down, but for now I'm soaking it up. Lol.
It may get ridiculous gas mileage, but it's not nearly as fun to drive as everyone else's right now.
-Nathan
It may get ridiculous gas mileage, but it's not nearly as fun to drive as everyone else's right now.
-Nathan
#33
I average 22-24mpg with 70%-80% city driving. Let me tell you, traffic in a big city is not pleasant. Mods? Just a stillen y-pipe.
As for the OP, good luck.
#34
Yea, I hate it to be honest. I'd rather have my horsepower back. 37 mpg isn't a fair trade for a car that runs like trash. Lol.
Although, even while running similar to how it does now it only got about 29 mpg before I changed out plugs, coils, oil change, o2 sensors, and all that trying to get it running right.
It shot up after I did all that, plus my foot has lost quite a few pounds since my daughter was born. Lol.
-Nathan
Although, even while running similar to how it does now it only got about 29 mpg before I changed out plugs, coils, oil change, o2 sensors, and all that trying to get it running right.
It shot up after I did all that, plus my foot has lost quite a few pounds since my daughter was born. Lol.
-Nathan
#35
#37
^^That's a giant OVERsimplicifcation of how it works, but the basic premise is right.
For more info, read below, form the Infiniti Q45 forums:
Simple they are piezoelectric microphones, which are gated on [alternate banks] for approximately 20 degrees of rotation every 90 degrees.........to listen for abnormal sounds which occur with spark knock [spark fires at 20-40 degrees before TDC and max pressure occurs at 17 degrees AFTER TDC.
A sound of ~~ 2-5KHz that occurs in the -15 to _+5 degree ATC position of EACH cylinder] is a knock. The frequency spectrum [from the microphones] is shaped and filtered by software to ignore other frequencies.
The sounds are accumulated as a voltage rise on 2 separate capacitors which continuously discharge [at a rate based on rpm].........knock counts per second.
This voltage is used by ecu to subtract ignation advance from a maximum number.......no knocks no subtraction and ignition advance is maximum preprogrammed value.
The are 2 x 2 accumulators [long term ones for those using regular fuel to sense all those extra knocks] and reset maximum to 2,3,4 less degrees vs short term to sense extra that average knocks.
Tricky to decide average vs peak vs rpm vs load and the knock sensors/ecu run out of calculation time as rpm increases with old style non obd2 ecu [90-95 models] so it gives up and just retards -3.........but this is set into software for WOT with RPM above 5,000.
So the knock sensors don't offer any protection above 4,000 rpm.
As engine ages noises increase from wear and knock sensors may get fooled.
Why you study WOT advance numbers to look for anomolies. Does the 6,000 rpm advance get to -28 degrees is the clue.
As KS age the sensitvity vs frequency curve changes from heat cracks etc.
As new knock control requires as new KS.......why they get changed every 100k.
A better more expensive way is to measure each cylinders peak pressure during combustion......what's used on race cars to set individual cylinder timing [ignition advance for each individual spark plug firing].
A sound of ~~ 2-5KHz that occurs in the -15 to _+5 degree ATC position of EACH cylinder] is a knock. The frequency spectrum [from the microphones] is shaped and filtered by software to ignore other frequencies.
The sounds are accumulated as a voltage rise on 2 separate capacitors which continuously discharge [at a rate based on rpm].........knock counts per second.
This voltage is used by ecu to subtract ignation advance from a maximum number.......no knocks no subtraction and ignition advance is maximum preprogrammed value.
The are 2 x 2 accumulators [long term ones for those using regular fuel to sense all those extra knocks] and reset maximum to 2,3,4 less degrees vs short term to sense extra that average knocks.
Tricky to decide average vs peak vs rpm vs load and the knock sensors/ecu run out of calculation time as rpm increases with old style non obd2 ecu [90-95 models] so it gives up and just retards -3.........but this is set into software for WOT with RPM above 5,000.
So the knock sensors don't offer any protection above 4,000 rpm.
As engine ages noises increase from wear and knock sensors may get fooled.
Why you study WOT advance numbers to look for anomolies. Does the 6,000 rpm advance get to -28 degrees is the clue.
As KS age the sensitvity vs frequency curve changes from heat cracks etc.
As new knock control requires as new KS.......why they get changed every 100k.
A better more expensive way is to measure each cylinders peak pressure during combustion......what's used on race cars to set individual cylinder timing [ignition advance for each individual spark plug firing].
Last edited by Amerikaner83; 07-01-2012 at 09:12 PM.
#38
He would be getting terrible performance, though, if the knock sensor is to blame (although he could have more than one problem).
Until the maf is replaced, there's no point in theorizing anything. Idk why people think you can test them. It just doesn't work that way unless you were incredibly analytical and could compare directly to another car operating under the same parameters as yours.
Until the maf is replaced, there's no point in theorizing anything. Idk why people think you can test them. It just doesn't work that way unless you were incredibly analytical and could compare directly to another car operating under the same parameters as yours.
#40
When i'm driving slowly, as in completely cruising on the highway (75mph) using Premium, I get 25-27 MPG. When i'm doing mostly city, i get 20-22. (this is after rear o2 sensors) Before new o2's it was about 24 Highway, and 19 City. Replace your O2's and MOST IMPORTANTLY, your MAF. I'm sorry if you already stated that you replaced it earlier, My stupid Phone won't load the page properly.