foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I replaced the starter on my 2k. I bought the duralast rebuilt starter from Autozone. Install went fine and it fired right up with the new starter.

However, now when I try to remote start the car (have a hornet 554t system) it won't start up. It will act like it wants to crank but it seems the starter quits. A couple times it made a fast ticking sound like a bad starter.

Funny thing is there is no issue when I start it normally with the key.

Could it be I have a bad starter? Maybe I need to change the crank time for my hornet remote start? It's perplexing me.

Any ideas??

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Bump....I'm thinking maybe I should take the starter out and have it tested?

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

any direct connects from the remote start system to the starter? i dont know how these things are wired..i'm just thinking a loose connection of some sort

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Nope...I was reading into the wiring manual for the remote start and there is a wire connection, but it is connected under the dash. The only wire connections for my remote start in the engine bay are hood sensor and horn alarm.

When replacing the starter I didn't touch anything under the dash. I know, it sounds like a loose wire, but yesterday I did actually get it to start remotely, it just took a couple tries.

To me...it is sounding like a bad starter. I've heard it before when you buy a rebuilt starter they can be bad out of the box.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

you can try that, but if it's starting fine w/ the ignition....... *kanye shrug*

and battery terminals are tight?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Yeah...that's what really has me perplexed. Starts fine with key, but not well with the remote start.

Yup...battery terminals tight, ground wires good to go.

I'll probably take it down to the Autozone and show the guys. But, I already know what they'll say, "Pull the starter and let us test it."

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Clean your grounds!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thanks...but that is not it. Grounds are fine.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Its the starter. Duralast starters have a big problem in that sense. My boy just bought a 2000 with remote start and the starter was just replaced with Duralast and he kept the OEM one on the trunk (which was a great help). Duralast one randomly decides to skip or crank but will not start. Went and bought an OEM one and no problems in past 2 weeks. Get rid of Duralast ASAP!!! Same thing happened on my 95 and went back OEM.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Trinni. I pretty much figured that, now I just have to prove it somehow to Autozone to get my money back for the starter. Hopefully, I can at least get store credit.

Wish me luck...

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Well..my story got interesting after my last post.

Saturday I took my Max to Autozone and was going to show them the issue. I tested it in their parking lot and it starts fine with the key and remote starting. Ugh...no point in staying to try and get it to fail again so I left.

It started fine for the rest of the day, 4 or 5 more starts.

Sunday morning go to start it with the remote starter and "click, click, click" then nothing. I try it with the key and it just goes "whir, whir, whir" like the battery is dying.

Today I pick up a Nissan rebuilt starter from the dealer and install it. Same exact issue "whir, whir, whir". I double-checked all fittings for tightness and in the process broke off the bolt for the negative battery. Cr*p...go to Autozone to get a new bolt. I look at it again and think, "I wonder if the ground wire I added from the battery to the top of the transmission it affecting the starter." The wire was resting against starter. I moved it out of the way back against the inner fender where I had it. Put the new bolt on the negative battery terminal and try to start it. It fires right up...

So...it looks like the Autozone starter may not even be bad at all. What a bummer because I can't return it for a refund, hopefully I can at least get a credit at the store.

Lame...

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

figured it was a wire, that didnt make any sense that it would just be a autozone starter...either the starter is gona work or it's not

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That is a very amazing problem and cure. Have you been curious enough to put the wire back next to the starter to see if the problem re-occurs?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Not yet...I'm just happy it starts up fine now. It has been too hot to be continuing to mess with it. I was drenched in sweat last night.

I'll try that test at a later time. Maybe on Friday or Saturday when I have more time.

I'm not electrician so I don't understand why a ground wire (2 gauge) direct to battery and against the starter motor would affect the starter.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Well I know thing or two but still would appreciate if you could try to reproduce the problem whenever you have a chance. That thick wire carries full starter current at the time of start so it creates magnetic field around it. I just never thought starter would care that much ....

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Thats what I would think

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Ok...this morning I moved the ground wire next to the starter motor (on top of it). Using my remote start I started the car and it fired up.

I moved the wire away from the starter and tried to remote start again and no go. I moved it back on the starter and still no go. Tried a few times and it wouldn't start.

I left the wire on the starter motor and used the key in the ignition to start and it fired right up.

Now...mind you I have two other issues which are probably contributing to this problem.

1. My negative battery cable is loose to the point where you can physically rotate it on the post. I'm going to replace this with a quick connection, hopefully today after work.

2. I have a P1320 Ignition Signal Primary code. This popped up last Saturday or Sunday when I still had the Autozone starter in the car. I'll research more into this code today.

There is a picture of the ground wire on the starter motor attached. The wire is circled in red.

Once I fix the negative battery terminal connection I will clear the code and do some more testing with the ground wire and starting.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, you restored some of my beliefs . It doesn't look like it's relevant as you got 'no start' condition while the wire was away.

The rest of the things don't seem relevant to this either. As I understand problem description starter doesn't turn the engine at all when it happens, correct? If so the problem is localized to starter and its control circuit. When you say you hear click is this faint relay click or loud click of the starter's bendix mechanism?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

This morning there was no start click at all. It was a sound of the starter trying to start, electronic buzzing, and sounds like it is bound on something or something is preventing it from starting.

I want to do a few things first before trying to diagnose further:

-Fix negative battery connection
-Mount ground wire away from starter against firewall
-Check all grounds again
-Reset engine codes

I did have a P0430 earlier before my starting problems came up, but I don't think that has any relation to this at all.

Also, after I replaced the Autozone starter with the Nissan starter and got it starting up again it ran a bit rough at the start for about 10 seconds, but cleared up after. This is when I scanned and found the P1320 code. Consequently, my negative battery cable was loose to where you could rotate it at this time.

Rooney

iTrader: (3)

If you have a remote start check the connecting between the remote start and your Smart Entrance Control Unit. The wire's might be loose.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Yesterday I did some more checking and fixing things. The follow are items repaired or checked:

• New negative battery terminal (connection is tight, does not move)
• Ground wire (2-gauge from battery to top of transmission) mounted against fire wall away from starter.
• All grounds checked in engine bay again. Everything good, tight with no corrosion.
• Tach learn procedure for the Hornet system (remote start). Learned ok, no problem.

The following are car starts with conditions (the hood open is a factor) and the results. Each time the P1320 code popped up I cleared it before the next start attempt.

1. Key in ignition start, hood OPEN. STARTED FINE
2. Remote start, hood OPEN. STARTED FINE
3. Remote start, hood CLOSED. NO START P1320 ENGINE CODE
   
4. Remote start, hood OPEN. STARTED FINE(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31801169/Max_Start.avi)
5. Remote start, hood CLOSED. NO START P1320 ENGINE CODE(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31801169/Max_NoStart.avi)
6. Remote start, hood OPEN. NO START P1320 ENGINE CODE
7. Remote start, hood OPEN. ONE HICCUP, SECOND TURN STARTED FINE.(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31801169/Max_ToughStart.avi)
8. Remote start, hood CLOSED. NO START P1320 ENGINE CODE

I took videos of start #4, 5, and 7. You can hear what it sounds like when it tries to start and fails. Turn up the sound.

Last night I did clear the code and used only the key in ignition to start the car. I found the P1320 code to pop up while driving. The car has been running fine with no issues. Just the remote start issue.

At this point it looks like I have to diagnose the P1320 engine code FIRST. I think I can rule out the remote start system or associated connections being any contributor as the system will start fine at time with remote start. However, the P1320 code tends to pop up more often when remote starting thus preventing a start.

Any ideas on where to start with this diagnosing? I'm not very handy or have much experience with a multimeter.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Bump...

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Your starter doesn't turn when 'it doesn't start'. If so, all error codes are irrelevant. They become relevant when starter turns the engine normally but it doesn't fire. Not your case.

Why don't you trace power to starter and starting circuit? Take multimeter and measure voltage on power wire of the starter (check its connections as well) and on the starter control wire. Your problem, while intermittent, still easily reproducible, shouldn't take long.

Most likely the problem is located where your remote starter unit is connected to the starting circuit. Throughout this thread you never mentioned how exactly this is done in your case and keep poking around giving random irrelevant information. If I were you I'd start from that spot.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Irrelevant? Hmm...so you say. I am putting all information so I can keep a documentation log here in this thread, both for me and others.

As far as the remote starter unit connection I am not quite sure as I did not install the system. I had it installed over 10 years ago by a very small independent shop so they are likely not in business any longer. I'll check the manual to see how the remote starter unit is connected to the starting circuit and test that connection.

Starter control wire and power wire were checked the other day when I checked the ground wires again.

Thank you for the response.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Issue seems to be corrected now. It looks like I had both a bad starter and bad battery. The battery would charge, but wouldn't hold a charge. Autozone replaced for free under warranty. It has started fine since.

Now just dealing with a P1320 SES code. The car misfired yesterday, but after shutting it down and restarting the misfiring ended. No specific cylinder misfire codes when I pulled them after that incident.

I changed out the spark plugs yesterday and it runs better, but the P1320 code is still present. I'll check the condenser tonight when I get home. Just wondering if there is anything else to check. I posted in the "Got Bad Coils" thread since I tested my ignition coil packs yesterday when changing the plugs. What is nice is I had changed out these coils 6 years ago and tested them BEFORE I installed them brand new so you can see a direct comparison. I'm just not sure how much of a change is an issue or normal wear.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I'm in this thread late, but I'd have done a tach relearn procedure on your remote start. It very well could have resolved your issue.

By replacing the battery you essentially did the relearn, but you paid for a battery in the process.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Actually...

1. I did the tach relearn before replacing the battery.

2. The battery replacement was free under warranty from Autozone.

For all of the complaints I hear on here about Autozone their service and warranty programs have actually worked well for me overall. Granted, you can't expect them to have the technical knowledge as members of this board, but they do a good job for what I need. Case in point...the guy at Autozone said my remote start FOB was probably low on battery and just needs the battery replaced. Uh huh...

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Haha, glad it worked out

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thanks...I've been running into a bit of bad luck with the car. Multiple failures of different components makes it tough to diagnose.