I broke a radiator mounting nut
I broke a radiator mounting nut
When one knows nothing about cars, one should be smart enough to not to try to fix something!
I have a 2000 I30. The mechanic recommended that I replace the two rubber pieces that insert into the metal mount at the top of radiator to prevent excess movement of the radiator. Mine appeared to be rotted out and allowing excess movement of the radiator. The part number for the rubber grommets is 21506 and for the mounting bracket 21546.
I went to the local Nissan dealer and purchased the rubber grommets. I inserted them into the mounting bracket with no problem and then tightened down one with the 10mm nut. When I got to the second one, I must have tried to tighten it too much and I broke off the nut!
I figured now what I need to do is get someone to tap out the stem of the 10mm nut that remained in the metal cross mounting piece. I think this part is called the upper radiator support. Anyhow, when I called the Nissan dealer they spoke of a wiring harness underneath, a bolt and something more complex than it looks to me.
Could someone please explain to me what I need to do at this point.
Thanks.
Anovice
I have a 2000 I30. The mechanic recommended that I replace the two rubber pieces that insert into the metal mount at the top of radiator to prevent excess movement of the radiator. Mine appeared to be rotted out and allowing excess movement of the radiator. The part number for the rubber grommets is 21506 and for the mounting bracket 21546.
I went to the local Nissan dealer and purchased the rubber grommets. I inserted them into the mounting bracket with no problem and then tightened down one with the 10mm nut. When I got to the second one, I must have tried to tighten it too much and I broke off the nut!
I figured now what I need to do is get someone to tap out the stem of the 10mm nut that remained in the metal cross mounting piece. I think this part is called the upper radiator support. Anyhow, when I called the Nissan dealer they spoke of a wiring harness underneath, a bolt and something more complex than it looks to me.
Could someone please explain to me what I need to do at this point.
Thanks.
Anovice
I don't think I explained the problem properly. It is this screw (pin) that I sheared off!
So my questions are:
1. How do I get out the remainder of the "pin" that is now flush with the metal piece that it comes up through?
2. Do I get it tapped out?
3. Isn't there a wiring harness below?
4. Since it is a pin that a 10mm nut attaches to, how in the world do I replace the pin from the underside?
5. Or do I replace it with a screw?
So my questions are:
1. How do I get out the remainder of the "pin" that is now flush with the metal piece that it comes up through?
2. Do I get it tapped out?
3. Isn't there a wiring harness below?
4. Since it is a pin that a 10mm nut attaches to, how in the world do I replace the pin from the underside?
5. Or do I replace it with a screw?
Thanks for your posts.
Needless to say, I have two left hands, for if not, I would never have done something so stupid.
I presume I could get a friend to drill thru and if there is a wiring harness below as I am told there is, be careful.
Since I am not mechanically inclined, I am bit confused regarding how to configure the new nut and bolt.
Are you saying that once it is drilled thru and there is a hole, screw in a stainless steel bolt and from the top screw on the bolt? How long of a bolt should I get at Lowes. I know the current nut is 10mm, but does that mean I purchase a 10mm bolt?
I am wondering if there is a nut on the inside that is holding the bolt in place that I sheared off and if so, does that make a difference.
Anovice
Needless to say, I have two left hands, for if not, I would never have done something so stupid.
I presume I could get a friend to drill thru and if there is a wiring harness below as I am told there is, be careful.
Since I am not mechanically inclined, I am bit confused regarding how to configure the new nut and bolt.
Are you saying that once it is drilled thru and there is a hole, screw in a stainless steel bolt and from the top screw on the bolt? How long of a bolt should I get at Lowes. I know the current nut is 10mm, but does that mean I purchase a 10mm bolt?
I am wondering if there is a nut on the inside that is holding the bolt in place that I sheared off and if so, does that make a difference.
Anovice
Don't sweat it right now, it's not a big deal.
The original stud is pressed or welded in place. You are best off grinding or cutting it flat then drilling it out. There is a wiring harness under the upper radiator support. You can unclip it an move it around somewhat out of the way. Get a drill stop and set the depth very shallow. Go slow. The new bolt can be anything close in size. Stock is m6x1.00 and about 3/4" long. You may need it slightly longer to reach from underneath. Insert the bolt from the bottom an it will look like stock.
The original stud is pressed or welded in place. You are best off grinding or cutting it flat then drilling it out. There is a wiring harness under the upper radiator support. You can unclip it an move it around somewhat out of the way. Get a drill stop and set the depth very shallow. Go slow. The new bolt can be anything close in size. Stock is m6x1.00 and about 3/4" long. You may need it slightly longer to reach from underneath. Insert the bolt from the bottom an it will look like stock.
Well, not a very good morning. I removed the plastic clip, carefully moved a very small portion of the wiring harness about two inches away and from under the top radiator support and drilled out the bolt. Replaced the new one from underneath and put the wiring harness back in place. Seemed all good.
Now the car won't start! The engine tries to turn over and while my battery is good, it just won't start.
It looks like I will have to get the car towed to the mechanic, who fortunately is only a few miles away. I must have disturbed something in the wiring harness. Assuming I did, I would think the problem could be isolated to an area of less than a foot.
If I broke a wire in the harness, is this something a mechanic could find? Is it difficult to repair? Could a new "piece" of a harness be ordered?
Thanks.
Anovice
Now the car won't start! The engine tries to turn over and while my battery is good, it just won't start.
It looks like I will have to get the car towed to the mechanic, who fortunately is only a few miles away. I must have disturbed something in the wiring harness. Assuming I did, I would think the problem could be isolated to an area of less than a foot.
If I broke a wire in the harness, is this something a mechanic could find? Is it difficult to repair? Could a new "piece" of a harness be ordered?
Thanks.
Anovice
If that's all you did, I would trace the harness to both ends, just to be sure you didn't accidentally disconnect something... oh, and check your fuses... you just never know when it's something silly.
Oh, and it's pretty kool that you managed to fix it. I was about to tell you to get a couple of 1/4" long sheetmetal self-tappers and screw it down while you figured it out, but you're craftier than you thought.
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