Hi all, firstly I want to apologize if this has already been covered, but I am quite sure it hasn't as I have scoured these threads for over a year trying to fix my problem.

with that said, allow me to describe the problem.
One day about 14 months ago, I was driving up a hill and started getting this really loud knock, I pulled over to the side of the road and the knock sounded like a rod knock, needless to say I panicked and drove home, 10 miles away.

I noticed while the car was at higher rpm's the knock went away and was more prominent at idle. So after getting it home I turned the car off and intended to find out wtf was wrong the next day.

next day I started the max and immediately when i put it into drive, loud knock at idle, really loud. so I came to this forums and started scouring for solutions, within the last year I have replaced:

1.) camshaft sensor (knock present after replaced)
2.) 02 sensor (front) (knock present after replaced)
3.) crank sensor (knock present after replaced)
4.) rear fuel damper (knock disappeared for about 2 weeks, now present)
5.) cleaned MAF (knock present after cleaned)

after replacing the fuel damper the knock went away for about 2 weeks, then today I drove the car a few miles into town to have rotors and pads put on, while i was breaking in the ceramic pads the knock came back, but not as consistent as it used to be, now its only intermittent when i put the car into drive, when the knock happens the entire car jolts like a timing miss, pretty similar. Also if i turn on the AC and the car is under load, the knock and jolt is more frequent.

I am so discouraged, I hope someone here as experienced this problem before, and we can find a solution, I am ready to drive my max into a macadamia nut tree.

Mahalo

 

Motor mounts?

 

No, not motor mounts.

 

Tie rod end rattling maybe? Loose intake manifold? Loose exhaust manifold. Grab and wiggle until you find whats loose. Or change the knock sensor

 

Well the symptoms don't make any sense LOL. Why would it do it only when you switch to drive. Plus, not being able to hear it doesn't help haha.

 

this is why I have been struggling with this for over a year. I will make a video and post on youtube.

I have had a dozen mechanics take a look at it and scratch their heads or tell me something ridiculous like wrist pin, rod knock. as far as i know if it were wrist pin or rod knock it would be constant.

 

Right

 

ok I got a update fellas, I was checking my ignition coils, front 3 when pulled the car behavior was normal as it would with running on 5 cylinders, then i pulled rear right plug and car died. So i took off front right coil and swapped with rear right coil, then started the car and when i pulled rear right coil out the car no longer died but immediately gave me the notorious knock i was experiencing...

so then i pulled front right coil which was previously in the rear right coil position and the car didnt die, although this is the same coil when it was in rear right position, killed the engine..

any ideas for my next step? at this point i suspect the rear right coil is bad even though it seems to be working fine in front right position.

thanks

 

sorry to revive an old thread but i just got the car back from nissan, they had it for 3 MONTHS!, diagnosis? wait for it..... they dont know.

but maybe the codes they got can help me?
p0300, p0340, p0051, p1800, p0037

any help guys please?

Anyone wants to fly to hawaii and fix my car? i have a 9 acre macadamia nut farm, eat all you want and i give you free lodging for a month.


I cannot believe Nissan can't figure it out, nor the last 20+ mechanics I have had look at the car. I am so close to just lighting it on fire and walking away, 2 years i have been dealing with this damn problem. If i had become a mechanic instead of a farmer id be rich in this stupid town.

edit *forgot to mention now the knock is present and engine misfires, during idle in park as well as drive*

You can hear the knock at precisely 06 through 08 seconds and then a rattle at deceleration, i know the sounds is horrible, sorry about that.

 

bump for youtube video.

 

Just a thought, not sure if possible, but could it be the timing chain? If its slipping teeth the Mr. valve could be meeting Mr. piston and then correcting itself or since the cams can adjust timing maybe they are going bad? Could be the Ecu...at this point buy a new engine lol

 

I remember it happen to me and it was my MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor that was damage and my car was running smooth once again.

it was annoying how it went I'll to accelerate and somehow I get a pull that the gears don't wanna change. Then I took it to my friends and he told me it was my MAF sensor we fixed under 5 minutes and the car runs well again. The piece costed me $350 but at a local store because buying OEM parts in ebay and such are no use