seastone14

I don't have any squealing or raising or lowering of engine rpm. My clutch simply does not disengage completely when I press in the clutch pedal. This makes it incredibly difficult to shift gears, although once the car is moving it becomes slightly easier. It's as if the 3rd gear crunch has affected all of my gears. I have clutch pedal pressure so I don't suspect the slave cylinder. I also have a large amount of flywheel chatter(aluminum flywheel), although I believe it is unrelated. Please help

rblower2012

iTrader: (1)

Try adjusting the nut on the part of the clutch master cylinder that goes to your clutch pedal. I had that same problem after i put a new slave cylinder in my car. Or your system might need to be bled. Try the nut first because bleeding our clutchs are a B****!

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

I'd definitely start with bleeding the clutch if you haven't already....then swap the slave out. It doesn't take long at all and they're very cheap (iirc ~$30). It's definitely somethign hydraulic so start with the easy things first.

seastone14

Are you guys sure? From what I've read it sounds like clutch problems.

I will make an effort to properly bleed my clutch lines and slave cylinder but pedal pressure feels completely normal.

Also last night after spending 4 hours on the highway my car started shifting completely normally. I believe this suggests that it is a hydraulic problem and not a mechanical clutch issue.

rblower2012

iTrader: (1)

Yup sounds hydraulic to me!

Brl24

Yep, sounds hydraulic. Try adjusting the nut on the plunger for theist master out from the firewall, I just had to do this with my car after replacing the slave.

Also bleeding is not actually that hard on our cars, just time consuming. Have someone else pump the clutch 5 times or so, holding it down, and make sure they are full strokes each time, then open the bleed screw but only do it for a second or two. If you leave it open too long, you will introduce air back into the system. Start at the slave, then do bleed point on the strut tower. Good luck.

seastone14

Thanks a bunch. Will provide a confirmation if this works out.

seastone14

Problem just got significantly worse, car is now sounding like all throw out bearing cases(contant squealing, something stuck underneath the clutch, depressing the clutch lowers the engine rpm slightly, no pressure in the pedal and when pumped still unable to change gears) , however i noticed that there seems to be no fluid in the slave cylinder.

Suggestions? I just ordered a master cylinder, slave cylinder, throw out bearing, and clutch release bushing.

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Spend the $40 on the Maxima 1 piece Clutch line. It will save you a headache when you go to bleed the system. That mess of line that Nissan has on there is ridiculous.

seastone14

Car just got dropped off at a shop with a box in the passenger seat containing a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and throw out bearing. Hopefully they diagnosis it right the first time. I'm pretty sure the throw out bearing will need to be replaced in addition to the master cylinder parts, and then the system will need a thorough bleed. Hope for the best.

sontakke

can you replace throwout bearing without taking the transmission down? If the transmission is down, are you going to keep the old clutch in?

seastone14

No you cannot. I will keep the old clutch in if it is in fine condition. The mechanic I am dealing with believes the problem to be with the pressure plate. I suspect he is mistaken but I will know by tomorrow. I replaced my clutch and flywheel 15000 miles ago so the fault should not be with them, if they are the source of the problem, they are covered under their warrantee. I believe it to be the throw out bearing as a result of the master cylinder or slave cylinder failing.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

They should replace the TOB with every clutch change, it comes with the clutch kit.

I will bet you a dollar it's leaky lines and or slave cylinder.

seastone14

I think what happened was that when I had my clutch line replaced with a SS one, the shop didn't bleed everything properly. This caused the slave cylinder to malfunction which caused the TOB to get worn out, which eventually ate the teeth on the pressure plate of my competition stage 2 clutch. A new sachs clutch kit is going in and the flywheel is being resurfaced. Besides replacing the TOB and a thorough bleed, I don't think that anything else will be necessary.

seastone14

Clutch replaced with sachs kit. Car now shifts better than ever before. As expected original clutch was fine and the pressure plate had some scuffs and dents by the center. The TOB was deformed but still intact. The mechanic said that the hydraulics were in perfect working order so either he is mistaken or a defective TOB was to blame all along.

For the record, this sachs kit is excellent and combined with my lightweight flywheel it offers the perfect combination of smooth engagement and low inertia.