OP, what is your location? If near western massachusetts, I can program those keys for you.

 

What code would they use Dark_man_x? If its not something you can give out over the web, private message me with it if you can. I only have intention to use this once in my life to get mom's car back on the road.

As I recall, when the techs punched in whatever code they thought it would be for older cars, there was no error message returned at all... just a blank prompt that I think was BLINKING. DOES THAT TELL YOU ANYTHING?

 

I'm 1000 miles away from there. lol unfortunately... but thanks. i don't suppose you have a MAXIMA that these computers would work in that you could put the keys and ecm in and reprogram it for me and then send it back to me huh?

 

I've had the issue with the ECU and it was fixed with a Snap-On computer. I have reprogrammed the keys myself as we have a computer at the shop.

ECUs are interchangeable within the same model and you don't need to change/program in a VIN number to it.

A competent mechanic should be able to do that. My opinion is, your dealer is a ripoff even more than others and guys are trying to sell you all the new parts.

You could get the immobilizer aka NATS, key ring/antenna, keys, ignition cylinder and ecu from one of the part outs here and will not have to reprogram anything. I understand that it might be unnecessary as you already have an ECU and will be around 200+ or so. Nothing else besides these parts should be needed if you just need to fix the immobilizer/NATS, ECU and reprogram keys, maybe just a door and trunk lock to match the same key. But simle NATS and ECU swap will work.

Try to take off the ring/antenna and see if any of the wires are damaged, it might cause the issue of not recognizing the key as well.

My assumption was that all the AE Maximas came with traction control and abs, are you sure yours is AE? Both of mine have TCS.

 

No, there is no Traction Control on this car. I verified it at some point when looking for ECU's. When you do a junkyard search too, it asks if it has traction control or not before narrowing down search results.

No updates yet. I was going to have a locksmith come try to reprogram the keys today, but now you have me thinking about replacing the NATS with a matching ECU.

Again to ALL: If I have a mismatched ECU plugged into the car (doesn't match the original keys), should I expect to see a SOLID red light, BLINKNIG red light or NO RED LIGHT AT ALL from the anti-theft under the clock?

 

Solid

 

cjandura - yer awesome... how about that speedy reply??? Does a part of you live extended in cyberspace while the rest of you physically in the real world! LOL - That was great, because I'm on my way out for lunch and I was gonna go check this now! lol

 

Ok. The news everyone's been waiting to hear.

With the Junkyard ECU IN, because the old one is toast:

ANTI-THEFT LIGHT:
1. Blinks RED when car is OFF and NO KEY is in IGNITION.

2. SOLID RED when key is in ignition when turned to the ON position, 1 click away from starting the car.

So since the keys haven't been reprogrammed yet against the junkyard ECU, is the anti-theft acting correctly?

Attempts to start the engine fail, but it cranks beautifully. Just seems like its not getting fuel or spark... which is probably just the anti-theft right?

I've scheduled a locksmith to come try to reprogram the keys/junkyard ecu tomorrow at the Nissan dealership.

Dark_man_x - I don't guess you can share that super secret code that programs this car huh? Or a more exact procedure on how to use the Consult II or III tool to get this to work? I tried to tell Nissan today that I knew a tech (you) that stated the procedure for doing the keys and that you knew it could be done, but the very evasive and crazy eyed loud super faster talking service manager (who's body language was obvious that he wanted me gone) claims that he won't follow any procedure unless its on a Nissan letterhead. How about that?

Crazy service manager did however go on to say that if they couldn't get it to work that he wasn't gonna charge me for it, which is more than where I was before he came along... because he came along after I'd brought the car to this dealership and they were gonna charge me 1 hour diagnostic time even though they accomplished zip. To me, while this is fair, it is also encouragement for me to take my car somewhere else.

Another thought: Are there batteries in the keys?

 

Keys need programing thats all!

 

No batt in key it uses a RF pill thats all if your nats system was defective you would get a code and cel from that also P1614 code

 

I have a free code scanner that I can use... I didn't look at the dash board to see if there was an engine light on, but I imagine when the key is ON ignition OFF that all the dash lights will remain lit anyway... so without the code scanner I can't tell till we get the car started right?

 

The CEL codes are stored in the ecu so as long as the key is in the ON position, the codes can be read with a scanner. The engine does not have to be running.

 

Well big news!
The locksmith got the keys programmed to the junkyard ECU!

NOW THE ANTI-THEFT LIGHT TURNS OFF WHEN YOU PUT THE KEY IN AND TURN IT!

BAD NEWS: Car cranks hard with VIGOR... but refuses to start. Before the minimal flood damage, as I've described before, the car was giving frequent signs of not starting. It doesn't seem like the starter because it tries to start vigorously and repetitively.

The flood water would've been midway high of the rear backseat or halfway up the cup holders in the center console. I've replaced all computer components that were underwater and cleaned all corrosion on any connectors (there were very few like that). I of course can't rule out the flood damage, because it was starting "sometimes" before then, but in the back of my head it had a start problem prior to the flood.

I had heard that these year Maxima's had a problem with the IAC, TPS and the fuel pressure regulator and another part related to the fuel pressure regulator (maybe a fuel pressure solenoid??).

In any case I have told the defunct dealer to tell me why it won't start. If I don't like what I hear (ignorance or if it sounds like they are guessing) I'm gonna tow the car out of there and bring it somewhere else... I have a sneaking suspicion I'll be troubleshooting it myself.

So, whats the biggest #1 known problem for this gen Maxima for starting problems. Forget the flood water... just if it hadn't flooded... what could it be?

 

It could be the crankshaft sensors. The one on the flywheel is more likely the one than the crankshaft pulley one.

 

So there are 2 crankshaft sensors?

You say this because they may have gone underwater or because this is a common failure point on these cars?

 

My bad. You only have one crankshaft sensor, I forgot what year car you have. It is on the flywheel. The one that used to be on the crankshaft pulley has been deleted and it's function replaced by the camshaft sensors.

And yes to both the sensor going bad on its own or being under water. There was a recall on the sensor, but I'm pretty sure it did not involve the 2003 models. I'll have to re-check that. But there are also other reasons for a car not starting, but this sensor is a somewhat common thing. Also common is that people will go to autozone and buy a sensor and the car still won't start. Get a Nissan sensor if you are going to replace it.

Another thing that comes to mind with the flood is the fuel pump relay. It was underwater as it is located in the passenger cabin, down by the floor in the section in front of the door. There is also an ignition relay, but I can't recall where it is located.

 

This is a 2001 Maxima 3.0L auto trans no traction control btw.

Do you think either of those relays were energized during the flood?

Could either of those relays have gotten water inside them, in the relay itself?

I ask because the only terminals that corroded were those still energized by the battery. Most connectors I pulled apart (inside and outside the car) were all perfectly bone dry and looked brand new.

I need to do a code scan on it and also pull a plug and hold it next to the engine metal to see if I have spark. If I have spark, then its gotta be fuel right?

 

Where all ma boyz at? lol - Now that we got the key reprogramming licked should I start a new thread??? or... anyone else have any thoughts about the no start condition?

 

I was right the first time, your car does have 2 crankshaft sensors. The 3.0 engine has 2 sensors, the 3.5 engine has 1. The crankshaft pulley sensor is used to determine TDC (top dead center) for timing purposes. If this signal is missing, it is claimed that the car will eventually start after extended cranking because somehow the ECU can figure out TDC from other sources. The flywheel sensor is more critical. Each tooth on the flywheel creates a pulse from the transducer that Nissan calls the 1 degree signal.

The relays are not water tight to my knowledge. Since the fuel pump relay was submerged, check to see if the fuel pump is getting power. The fuel pump relay and the ignition relay will only have power when the ignition switch is in the ON position.

I think I tracked down the ignition relay. It is on the back side of the dashboard fuse panel and supplies power to a lot of circuits, both ignition and non-ignition related.

 

Did the wayer ger as high as the maf/or any other sensors? If so replace them get a scan for codes yet?also check the basics air/fuel/spark

 

I'll have to check those relays if the genius' at Nissan don't beat me to it. They are supposed to check out the car tomorrow. They were supposed to check it out today, but of course no one notified anybody that they were supposed to do that so another day passed with nothing done.

Do those relays both look like big black squares? or like regular smaller car fuses?

What about the starter inhibitor relay? I saw a youtube about this, but it wouldn't even turn over if it was this relay... it just clicks when you turn the key.. no engine action.

 

No. Water reached midway of the alternator which I think is lower than most alternators on other cars and if I am not mistaken the starter is higher than the alternator is. Water did not reach the majority of the electronics or the fuse block in the left driver dash.

Nissan is supposed to check the car tomorrow. We'll see where that takes us and then I'll start picking it apart myself.

 

The relays are bigger than fuses, 1 inch by 1 inch by 1 inch. As for the color, I don't remember, but I don't think it is black. Without looking at my car, I think the fuel pump relay is blue.

The inhibitor relay is under the hood in front of the battery, maybe 3 feet above the ground. I the battery wasn't in water then the relay wasn't, either. But the inhibitor relay has to be working if the starter is cranking. The relay is used to complete the electrical circuit from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid when the shift lever is in park or neutral.

The starter is up high on the VQ engine. If you remove the air filter box and MAF, the starter is beneath it.

 

Yeah, as I recall the starter is higher than the alternator. Alternator got water, but the starter didn't.

Well, I'm on phone now with Nissan and yet again... they didn't look at the car. The first person I told 3 days ago to give it a 1 hour diag said he would the next day. He forgot to do it. The next person (girl) the next day said she would do it and then she is off today. Now I'm talking to a 3rd person who supposedly is going to get it in the schedule for diagnostic for next Monday. Absolutely amazing.... what a bunch of f'in morons.

 

The items marked in red were replaced or cleaned or removed.
I touched the Fuel pump relay and didn't even know it. That relay and the connector was corroded and I decorroded it before trying to start the car, but I guess a quick check for voltage at the fuel pump since the seat is out wouldn't hurt.

DennisMik or anyone - Where in this diagram would you say the ignition relay is?

 

Since I'm new to this forum, what are some of the good known discount or just good OEM parts places people use on the forum? If there are other good parts suppliers other than OEM too, I'll take those.

 

This link (Nissan Parts Zone link that shows fuel pump and ignition relay panel in my car) conflicts with the link I posted 2 posts back, for the location of the fuel pump relay. Looks here like the fuel pump relay would be behind the steering wheel maybe??? if I'm seeing that right?? and the place where the rear defrost relay is, is down on the kick panel driver side.

I know from working on the car that at location "B" in that parts link, that there were 2 relays there, not just 1 as shown in that parts link. So, I guess I gotta go back to the dealer and look at the car to see for sure if the fuel pump relay and the ignition relay are together in that panel as shown on the parts link or if they are both in location "B".

Location "B" did go underwater.

Location "A" - if that is indeed as high as and behind the steering wheel, did NOT go under water.

If that isn't the fuel pump relay with the rear defrost relay at location "B", then what other relay could that be???

 

I have used CourtesyParts.com several times and am currently waiting on an order from them now. For aftermarket parts I usually use a combination of rockauto.com, amazon.com, and ebay.com. autozone/advance/o'reilly is useful for finding part numbers to cross check on amazon and ebay but I wouldn't buy from them unless they have a part locally and I need it fast. Their shipping services suck (ordered parts from AutoZone once and took them over a week just to ship).

***My rule of thumb is, if it's electronic it had better be OEM. MOST other stuff is okay aftermarket (there are exceptions... eg. power steering pressure hose).

 

Well, this may be a blessing in disguise. Nissan says they won't work on the car now. After it sat there last week doing nothing after they said they'd check it out, now they won't touch it.

I'm either going to troubleshoot it myself now or bring it to another known trusted shop.

 

I went by Nissan today, on my lunch hour, with my tiny old winxp laptop and my obd connector and plugged it into the Maxima. As I turned on the igntion I listened for the fuel pump to spine up and it did, clearly so, several times after turning the key back in forth with a lil pausing between each time. So fuel pump should be working.

I didn't have time to check for fuel on the spark plugs or much anything else, but I did find 2 stored DTC's using the EasyOBD program from the internet.

P1615 - Unknown
P505 - Idle Air Control System Malfunction

http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p1615_nissan.html - I looked up P1615 and it led me to that page. Is that page pretty much right??? Did the LOCKSMITH NOT successfully program my keys or could this mean the IMMU is broken after all?

Should I call the LOCKSMITH back? or troubleshoot/replace the IMMU?

Do I have to replace the IMMU with a brand new blank one from Nissan or does it not matter if I get one off a junk car?? (sorry, i Have to go back and read what we said about that in here)

P505 - As I understand it, doesn't this mean I have a bad idle air controller motor? or could it mean something else? What is usual for these cars with this code?

I also recall some problems with the IAC and TPS and ECM's of these year Maximas. Any comments or thoughts there?

Most of all, if P1615 means the keys really ARE NOT PROGRAMMED, then I am stunned, because the anti-theft light does behave properly since the LOCKSMITH programmed the 2 keys.

 

Reset the light the code was never cleared after the first time now if it comes back after you clear it and try to restart the car theres a problem

 

I forgot to mention that BIGGIE.... sorry... I DID CLEAR THE CODES WITH MY EASYOBD PROGRAM 1 TIME. THE CODES WENT AWAY UNTIL I TRIED TO START IT UP AGAIN AND THEN THE SAME EXACT CODES CAME BACK UP. What does that mean is bad?

ALSO, I HAVE BOTH NATS KEYS ON THE SAME KEYRING - WOULD I GET INTERFERENCE BY HAVING THEM BOTH RIGHT NEXT TO EACH OTHER AND BOTH RIGHT NEXT TO THE IGNITION? ie: Should I take 1 key off the ring and try them physically away from each other or should this not make a difference?

When I left the car, I left it with the battery cable pulled off.

 

Call the locksmith back did he program the keys while he was at the car?and verified that they worked

 

In the classifiy section there is someone selling all those modules for $150

 

He didn't verify the car started while he was there, but did say that it wasn't the computer keeping the car from starting because the anti-theft light behavior had changed to normal.

Also, I had never pulled the battery cable since he reprogrammed everything and previous start attempts before he reprogrammed everything would've probably saved those codes.... even though I did clear the codes 1 time after he reprogrammed everything, maybe the fact that I've now pulled the battery cable off for a long time... maybe the keys will start the car???

I have also been reading a lot about the TPS, IACV and ECM needing replacement altogether at the same time whenever you get code P505, because if often indicates its burnt out all components. I wonder if I'll be lucky enough that its only burnt out the IACV since I just put this new used ECM in there.... maybe the IAC had burnt out the ECM prior when the original ECM was in.

 

Which modules? Got a link?

 

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=656841

 

Is it possible that the old junkyard ECM I have installed now still has retained the OLD VIN from the car it came from, or in reprogramming the keys would my car's original VIN have written over the old junkyard ECM's VIN?

I guess I'm asking could the old VIN be in the junkyard ECM allowing the keys to work (but not start the car), but there still be a mismatch of VIN throughout the rest of the modules in the car?

 

Only the ecm holds the vin

 

So it doesn't matter what VIN is in use in the car right now as long as the keys are programmed to it?