Well, the AT is taking a turn for the worse im afraid. It is having gear surges and when its cold there is nothing there, just like I am in nutreal. So I have decided to do the 6MT swap. Scared of some of the unknowns but I know the org is here to help us. Hope to have all the parts here by next friday and should be starting over the weekend, not sure what to expect and still ahve some details to iron out, been in contact with some members who ahve done the swap already adn awaiting some to return some pm's, so hopefully I willl know all I need before I get started. For anyone who wants to post helpful info I will take all I can get, the less surprises the better for me! Links below are the threads I have read over and will be keeping close as I do the swap, as well as the how to I found that should help me some. If I am missing anything please someone chime in ASAP, anything you wanna say to me even if its repeated is great! Thanks!!

http://www.dynomagic.com/5spd_conversion.htm

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ne-4-days.html

http://aackshunsgarage.blogspot.com/...aser-pics.html

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...6spd-swap.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...you-shift.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...peed-swap.html

edit**

Im not sure I have this part, can it be purchased?

Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).
2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).

 

Might be off topic but have you looked at replacing the valve body?

 

Nothing is off topic with me brotha, and the answer is no, I've always wanted a 6speed so I'm putting my money into what I want.

 

I dont think you need that, its for a 5speed, not 6 speed. I dont think I have anything like that on my 6 speed.

 

Gemner's right, no need for it on the 02-03 6MT.

 

And this is why I love the org thanks fellas!! Parts should be enroute to arrive Wednesday/Thursday should be starting the swap Friday after work

 

subbed, might do it myself one day.

 

I had another question come up, I have the key and immobilizer unit as well as the ECU and engine harness out of the donor car all of the parts from the same vehicle if I put all those parts in my car will it start or do I need to get it reprogram? And if I am needing it to be re program What I be better to leave my cylinder and immobilizer in the car swap the wiring harness out and leave the auto ECUs in there? I am kind of worried all the electronics are going to caise fits in there anybody have some experience on this? I don't really want a check engine light on but yet I have all the parts just need to make sure and get it to the dealer if that's what it means

 

check the FSM for the NATS sequence diagram (it exists in there somewhere) but I believe that if you have those three it will work without any reprogram.

 

Yes sir I have the immobilizer, the key, and the cylinder. I will check FSM for that info but I hope you are correct.

 

I was under the same impression.

 

All you need is the ecu from the manual car. Drive your car to the dealership with the auto ecu still hooked up( you will have cel), and once you get there swap out the ecu's. Let them pprogram it for your original key and your done. There will be no more cel. All of that other stuff isn't necessary.

 

if he already has those parts, which he said he does, he would save the $150 or whatever it is going for locally to do the reprogram.

OP, that key from the manual trans car wont open up the doors to your car, or work with the ignition switch, or the trunk, glovebox, etc. Some people just tape the chip or whole key from the new immobilizer up into the steering column area to avoid having to mess with all the old locks.

 

Or you could just switch the chips in the keys....

 

I got mines done for free.

 

Pretty sure the OP will need to pay.

 

I do have to pay. 187.76 to be exact they won't do my old key they said they will have to use a new key, make a mold of my cylinder, then copy the key sounds like alot of money when I could just change it out. Never thought of the other locks I'd rather it be the old stuff in there and just reprogram the ECU. How can I change chips if the key is a sealed unit? I don't get that, nor how just simply taping the key to the immobilized would solve the issue? Doesn't it read the key? Or does it just read the signal in the chip? The whole electrical thing on these cars could turn into a nightmare and I really wanna avoid a lockout.

I'm thinking the easiest way is to use the MT imoblizer, ECU, and wiring harness. Leave my cylinder in the car to use my keys and just tape the 6MT key to the imoblizer unit before I reassemble the car, would that work? Or should I just pull the cylinder too use the 6MT cylinder and key then just keep the old key in my pocket with my other keys. I rarely use the trunk key or anything like that I have a FOB for all that. Unless someone shows me how to get my chip or whatever swapped in a key that's plastic?

 

They might be trying to mark that up. 127 was the last time I heard, either way, depends on how much you want to spend.

 

121 for a key and 55 for shop labor...I'm all for taping the 6MT key in the car if that will work I figured r had to read the key not just know it's close by I figured the ignition cylinder has something to do with it

 

it reads the key, but not through the ignition switch. Taping the key up there will work, I would make sure its in a location that works before closing up the column though. My only concern would be sort of "mixed signals" from both keys being near the immobilizer at the same time. Not sure how you would or could take care of that without doing something destructive to the head of your key

I had to pay $150ish a couple years ago, and that was after shopping about 5 different stealerships for the best price

 

The swap has started :O all I gotta say is holy rust...Jesus stuff from the north is nothing like it is here

 

haha, thats always my reaction to the rust threads. Rust? WTF is rust? There are places on my car/suspension that have been bare metal for years and no rust. In the NE it would have turned to dust already

 

Swap is at a stand still waiting on flywheel bolts..didn't know I needed them I assumed they were coming to, that's what I get for assuming. ANYWAY! Need some help, the two small switches on the clutch pedal I know the bottom one which is a black connector needs something in it for the car to start and the top one a brown connector needs something for the car to know it's in nutreal as well as the cruise to work. Are the connectors under my dash somewhere? I am swapping in a 6MT harness as well as ECU. Or would it be better to leave mt auto harness in ther and splice some wires together? I have no connectors or anything for it down there

 

I wouldnt expect the connectors to be under your dash, but they might be. I would suggest looking at the wiring diagram on courtesynissan.com to see if you can get the sensor name (to indicate function) and then cross that with the auto harness on the website to see if there is something similar in the area. Ive had some sensors on my trans (manual) die, the sensors on the clutch pedal are super cheap so I spliced up a new circuit off the pedal to the ECU, you might be best off doing the same.

 

I dont see how i can get that to work? wont that be bypassing the switch all together?

 

which switch? I had a broken sensor on the trans that basically told the ECU the trans is in neutral, I think the only use was for cruise control. I wired that up to the clutch pedal sensor that is closed when the clutch is released instead of screwing around with the one on the trans. Since I dont know which sensors you are concerned about I cant really say much besides trace the wiring diagrams available and see if you think you are missing something.

I would probably be inclined to just do the swap, including the new harness, and see where that gets me. If there are switches that arent dealt with that need to be you would find out pretty quick

Edit: I dont really remember what I did now that I think about it. I may have wired up the PNP switch from the tranny to run through the clutch pedal, or something else. I dont know. I would, however, suggest opening up the FSM to the clutch section. Page 5 has a parts diagram showing the two switches, and description of the pedal and switch functions start on page 6.

 

I did that and I wont be able to fake the car into thinking its in "N" without pilugging it in, with no way to plug it in that wont help me I dont think.

http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=30694

That thread seems like what I will have to do, no way to attach to the pedal itself but I think that I can wire these together where the 6 speed has o be in "N" literally for it to start just like those guys, at least I hope :/

 

I didnt realize you were talking about that. Why not just jumper it in the fuse/relay box? That would solve the starting problem. The next issue would be that it thinks youre always in neutral so cruise wouldnt work and it would throw a code. Once youre there just cut into the wire at the ECU and connect it through a switch on the clutch just like a clutch safety switch. All you need is a small fuse to jumper (or wire if you like), switch for the clutch pedal from Nissan, and two sections of wire

 

If cruise doesn't work I suppose that's not the end of the world anyway, I just wanna make sure its gonna start. Thanks for that info it would solve both issues it seems

edit** wouldn't jumping it make the car start at all times no matter if the clutch is in or not?

 

yes, unless you route the wiring through a clutch switch. Not a big deal though. Unless you get in the car with it in gear and try to start it with the clutch out you wont notice. You can start it with the trans in neutral and clutch out without any trouble popping up

 

I will prolly run it through the switch just to be safe. Won't be hard to do.

 

progress pics from last night and this morning, still waiting on fly wheel bolts so im just piddling with stuff

 

Major progress last couple days. Not had much time to devote. We should've done tomorrow and driving by mid day. Lets hope

 

I have a crank no start, Ideas? the inhibitor relay orange green wire is grounded thats about all the wiring I have done, swapped back in the auto ECU and imoblizer with still no luck, someone help?

changed a new 6 MT harness in, 6MT ECU, with the imoblizer and key chip. Still nothing. anyone?

 

Is it cranking or just nothing?

 

It cranks all day long just wont start, wondering if its imoblized?

 

I would say immoblizer or clutch sensor

did you swap over the key and cylinder from the 6MT?

If it was running well before the swap and its cranking all day long it has to be.

Assuming your battery has enough juice in it??? and I guess your starter has to be considered too.

 

I swapped the chips in the key instead of the cylinder, when I put the key in the security light is blinking as soon as I turn it to the ON position its stays on solid, which I think means its immobilized, but I cant find any good info in it anywhere yet but I am almost sure I have triggered the immobilizer. The sensor beside the shift mechanism is broken off inside the trans which may be causing it but I have it bypassed right now by tying the green/white wire to the black, that may also be causing this issue. The security light on constant when the car is in the on position makes me think its going to Nissan though

 

Is the Check engine light on? Cause if your key and imob arent working and need re program it will through a key code. Had it on my altima when the chip in my after market key got loose and fell to the bottom of the key and wasnt close enough to the ignition and it threw a few codes but key related.

 

The check engine light will always be on before the car starts, It may be I don't own a code reader but I have buddy bringing one out this weekend and we will try to read the codes then. I'm still thinking that damn immobilizer got me