Maverick4189's 4AT to 6MTw/HLSD Swap Thread
#1
Well, the AT is taking a turn for the worse im afraid. It is having gear surges and when its cold there is nothing there, just like I am in nutreal. So I have decided to do the 6MT swap. Scared of some of the unknowns but I know the org is here to help us. Hope to have all the parts here by next friday and should be starting over the weekend, not sure what to expect and still ahve some details to iron out, been in contact with some members who ahve done the swap already adn awaiting some to return some pm's, so hopefully I willl know all I need before I get started. For anyone who wants to post helpful info I will take all I can get, the less surprises the better for me! Links below are the threads I have read over and will be keeping close as I do the swap, as well as the how to I found that should help me some. If I am missing anything please someone chime in ASAP, anything you wanna say to me even if its repeated is great! Thanks!!
http://www.dynomagic.com/5spd_conversion.htm
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ne-4-days.html
http://aackshunsgarage.blogspot.com/...aser-pics.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...6spd-swap.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...you-shift.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...peed-swap.html
edit**
Im not sure I have this part, can it be purchased?
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).
2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).
http://www.dynomagic.com/5spd_conversion.htm
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ne-4-days.html
http://aackshunsgarage.blogspot.com/...aser-pics.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...6spd-swap.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...you-shift.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...peed-swap.html
edit**
Im not sure I have this part, can it be purchased?
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).
2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).
Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-08-2013 at 01:35 PM.
#4
edit**
Im not sure I have this part, can it be purchased?
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).
2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).
Im not sure I have this part, can it be purchased?
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).
2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).
#8
I had another question come up, I have the key and immobilizer unit as well as the ECU and engine harness out of the donor car all of the parts from the same vehicle if I put all those parts in my car will it start or do I need to get it reprogram? And if I am needing it to be re program What I be better to leave my cylinder and immobilizer in the car swap the wiring harness out and leave the auto ECUs in there? I am kind of worried all the electronics are going to caise fits in there anybody have some experience on this? I don't really want a check engine light on but yet I have all the parts just need to make sure and get it to the dealer if that's what it means
#11
#12
I had another question come up, I have the key and immobilizer unit as well as the ECU and engine harness out of the donor car all of the parts from the same vehicle if I put all those parts in my car will it start or do I need to get it reprogram? And if I am needing it to be re program What I be better to leave my cylinder and immobilizer in the car swap the wiring harness out and leave the auto ECUs in there? I am kind of worried all the electronics are going to caise fits in there anybody have some experience on this? I don't really want a check engine light on but yet I have all the parts just need to make sure and get it to the dealer if that's what it means
#13
All you need is the ecu from the manual car. Drive your car to the dealership with the auto ecu still hooked up( you will have cel), and once you get there swap out the ecu's. Let them pprogram it for your original key and your done. There will be no more cel. All of that other stuff isn't necessary.
OP, that key from the manual trans car wont open up the doors to your car, or work with the ignition switch, or the trunk, glovebox, etc. Some people just tape the chip or whole key from the new immobilizer up into the steering column area to avoid having to mess with all the old locks.
#15
if he already has those parts, which he said he does, he would save the $150 or whatever it is going for locally to do the reprogram.
OP, that key from the manual trans car wont open up the doors to your car, or work with the ignition switch, or the trunk, glovebox, etc. Some people just tape the chip or whole key from the new immobilizer up into the steering column area to avoid having to mess with all the old locks.
OP, that key from the manual trans car wont open up the doors to your car, or work with the ignition switch, or the trunk, glovebox, etc. Some people just tape the chip or whole key from the new immobilizer up into the steering column area to avoid having to mess with all the old locks.
#17
I do have to pay. 187.76 to be exact they won't do my old key they said they will have to use a new key, make a mold of my cylinder, then copy the key sounds like alot of money when I could just change it out. Never thought of the other locks I'd rather it be the old stuff in there and just reprogram the ECU. How can I change chips if the key is a sealed unit? I don't get that, nor how just simply taping the key to the immobilized would solve the issue? Doesn't it read the key? Or does it just read the signal in the chip? The whole electrical thing on these cars could turn into a nightmare and I really wanna avoid a lockout.
I'm thinking the easiest way is to use the MT imoblizer, ECU, and wiring harness. Leave my cylinder in the car to use my keys and just tape the 6MT key to the imoblizer unit before I reassemble the car, would that work? Or should I just pull the cylinder too use the 6MT cylinder and key then just keep the old key in my pocket with my other keys. I rarely use the trunk key or anything like that I have a FOB for all that. Unless someone shows me how to get my chip or whatever swapped in a key that's plastic?
I'm thinking the easiest way is to use the MT imoblizer, ECU, and wiring harness. Leave my cylinder in the car to use my keys and just tape the 6MT key to the imoblizer unit before I reassemble the car, would that work? Or should I just pull the cylinder too use the 6MT cylinder and key then just keep the old key in my pocket with my other keys. I rarely use the trunk key or anything like that I have a FOB for all that. Unless someone shows me how to get my chip or whatever swapped in a key that's plastic?
Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-17-2013 at 10:34 AM.
#19
121 for a key and 55 for shop labor...I'm all for taping the 6MT key in the car if that will work I figured r had to read the key not just know it's close by I figured the ignition cylinder has something to do with it
#20
it reads the key, but not through the ignition switch. Taping the key up there will work, I would make sure its in a location that works before closing up the column though. My only concern would be sort of "mixed signals" from both keys being near the immobilizer at the same time. Not sure how you would or could take care of that without doing something destructive to the head of your key
I had to pay $150ish a couple years ago, and that was after shopping about 5 different stealerships for the best price
I had to pay $150ish a couple years ago, and that was after shopping about 5 different stealerships for the best price
Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-17-2013 at 01:45 PM.
#22
haha, thats always my reaction to the rust threads. Rust? WTF is rust? There are places on my car/suspension that have been bare metal for years and no rust. In the NE it would have turned to dust already
#23
Swap is at a stand still waiting on flywheel bolts..didn't know I needed them I assumed they were coming to, that's what I get for assuming. ANYWAY! Need some help, the two small switches on the clutch pedal I know the bottom one which is a black connector needs something in it for the car to start and the top one a brown connector needs something for the car to know it's in nutreal as well as the cruise to work. Are the connectors under my dash somewhere? I am swapping in a 6MT harness as well as ECU. Or would it be better to leave mt auto harness in ther and splice some wires together? I have no connectors or anything for it down there
#24
Swap is at a stand still waiting on flywheel bolts..didn't know I needed them I assumed they were coming to, that's what I get for assuming. ANYWAY! Need some help, the two small switches on the clutch pedal I know the bottom one which is a black connector needs something in it for the car to start and the top one a brown connector needs something for the car to know it's in nutreal as well as the cruise to work. Are the connectors under my dash somewhere? I am swapping in a 6MT harness as well as ECU. Or would it be better to leave mt auto harness in ther and splice some wires together? I have no connectors or anything for it down there
#26
which switch? I had a broken sensor on the trans that basically told the ECU the trans is in neutral, I think the only use was for cruise control. I wired that up to the clutch pedal sensor that is closed when the clutch is released instead of screwing around with the one on the trans. Since I dont know which sensors you are concerned about I cant really say much besides trace the wiring diagrams available and see if you think you are missing something.
I would probably be inclined to just do the swap, including the new harness, and see where that gets me. If there are switches that arent dealt with that need to be you would find out pretty quick
Edit: I dont really remember what I did now that I think about it. I may have wired up the PNP switch from the tranny to run through the clutch pedal, or something else. I dont know. I would, however, suggest opening up the FSM to the clutch section. Page 5 has a parts diagram showing the two switches, and description of the pedal and switch functions start on page 6.
I would probably be inclined to just do the swap, including the new harness, and see where that gets me. If there are switches that arent dealt with that need to be you would find out pretty quick
Edit: I dont really remember what I did now that I think about it. I may have wired up the PNP switch from the tranny to run through the clutch pedal, or something else. I dont know. I would, however, suggest opening up the FSM to the clutch section. Page 5 has a parts diagram showing the two switches, and description of the pedal and switch functions start on page 6.
Last edited by Gemner; 04-25-2013 at 11:52 AM.
#27
I did that and I wont be able to fake the car into thinking its in "N" without pilugging it in, with no way to plug it in that wont help me I dont think.
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=30694
That thread seems like what I will have to do, no way to attach to the pedal itself but I think that I can wire these together where the 6 speed has o be in "N" literally for it to start just like those guys, at least I hope :/
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=30694
That thread seems like what I will have to do, no way to attach to the pedal itself but I think that I can wire these together where the 6 speed has o be in "N" literally for it to start just like those guys, at least I hope :/
#28
I didnt realize you were talking about that. Why not just jumper it in the fuse/relay box? That would solve the starting problem. The next issue would be that it thinks youre always in neutral so cruise wouldnt work and it would throw a code. Once youre there just cut into the wire at the ECU and connect it through a switch on the clutch just like a clutch safety switch. All you need is a small fuse to jumper (or wire if you like), switch for the clutch pedal from Nissan, and two sections of wire
#29
If cruise doesn't work I suppose that's not the end of the world anyway, I just wanna make sure its gonna start. Thanks for that info it would solve both issues it seems
edit** wouldn't jumping it make the car start at all times no matter if the clutch is in or not?
edit** wouldn't jumping it make the car start at all times no matter if the clutch is in or not?
Last edited by Maverick4189; 04-25-2013 at 01:23 PM.
#30
If cruise doesn't work I suppose that's not the end of the world anyway, I just wanna make sure its gonna start. Thanks for that info it would solve both issues it seems
edit** wouldn't jumping it make the car start at all times no matter if the clutch is in or not?
edit** wouldn't jumping it make the car start at all times no matter if the clutch is in or not?
#34
I have a crank no start, Ideas? the inhibitor relay orange green wire is grounded thats about all the wiring I have done, swapped back in the auto ECU and imoblizer with still no luck, someone help?
changed a new 6 MT harness in, 6MT ECU, with the imoblizer and key chip. Still nothing. anyone?
changed a new 6 MT harness in, 6MT ECU, with the imoblizer and key chip. Still nothing. anyone?
Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-08-2013 at 01:34 PM.
#37
I would say immoblizer or clutch sensor
did you swap over the key and cylinder from the 6MT?
If it was running well before the swap and its cranking all day long it has to be.
Assuming your battery has enough juice in it??? and I guess your starter has to be considered too.
did you swap over the key and cylinder from the 6MT?
If it was running well before the swap and its cranking all day long it has to be.
Assuming your battery has enough juice in it??? and I guess your starter has to be considered too.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-08-2013 at 01:33 PM.
#38
I swapped the chips in the key instead of the cylinder, when I put the key in the security light is blinking as soon as I turn it to the ON position its stays on solid, which I think means its immobilized, but I cant find any good info in it anywhere yet but I am almost sure I have triggered the immobilizer. The sensor beside the shift mechanism is broken off inside the trans which may be causing it but I have it bypassed right now by tying the green/white wire to the black, that may also be causing this issue. The security light on constant when the car is in the on position makes me think its going to Nissan though
#39
Is the Check engine light on? Cause if your key and imob arent working and need re program it will through a key code. Had it on my altima when the chip in my after market key got loose and fell to the bottom of the key and wasnt close enough to the ignition and it threw a few codes but key related.
#40
The check engine light will always be on before the car starts, It may be I don't own a code reader but I have buddy bringing one out this weekend and we will try to read the codes then. I'm still thinking that damn immobilizer got me