First time poster, but have kept my kids 2000 SE running great with awesome repairs at home through this forum.

Both front struts crapped out with leaky seals. Made quick work of getting them off and we are up on jack stands overnight. NAPA has 2 complete front end kits coming to me for 700am tomorrow. (Springs scare me so I ordered the entire assembly). I did not support the lower assembly after removing them and both are very droopy waiting for their new struts. Is this a concern to me for reassembly, they just seem to disconnected from the drive train and worried about reassembly in the morning. I plan on using the pumper jack to get them aligned for reassembly.

Need some help and advice TONIGHT on this. I will watch the forum for replies.

 

Make sure your axles are seated when your done and becareful not to let the strut cut the cv boot also make sure both wheels are off the ground and it helps to remove the endlinks sometimes

 

Got the boots protected with some shop towels, they're good. Ran down and put some pressure on the jack and it seems to align pretty well when I bring it up.

Will I have to twist the axel to make it seat or should it go in like a glove? How will I know its seated properly?

 

Hard click mostly the driver side to worry about

 

Sounds good, I will see if they spin once I get the new struts mounted and before I put the tire on. Like a lot of things its in the 'feel'. Very much appreciated.
Sure saved a bunch on this. Got the full strut for $182 from Napa. My trusted service shop wanted almost $600 for the job.

 

yeah Napa quickstruts are good if you want something fast, they go in quick and im scared of springs flying loose like you lol

as said the axle will click when its seated

 

Ready to go........
I will give you a follow up tomorrow afternoon and let you know how it turns out.
Another good note. There is a factory rebate and they give me another $60 back. Will pay for some more repairs or some new fishing tackle.

Much appreciated....

 

This is even easier than u think especially that your getting struts already READY, just line it up three top bolts and 2 bottoms bolts just don't twist around the shock to many times, axles easy, make sure you change the seals , just did this job and didn't change the driver side tranny seal and it leaked, had to fix it the next day

 

Get an alignment. Tire wear can eat up your savings...

 

Thanks for the advice. All my seals look great and ready to re-grease the zircs. Boots are nice and shinny now. I do have some good oil leaks and will have to deal with them next, but only about a pint or so every 1000 miles. The clunking was killing me so had to deal with that. Got this car at 70k and put 2 kids through it and now use it as my 'city' car to go into Boston. All in All I think its doing pretty well with 217k miles on it.

 

Its on my list. Got to get through NH inspection next month which is brutal.

thanks for the heads up.

 

Follow up...... got both mounted in under 90 minutes. Had to twist move the strut 90 degrees to make the hole pattern on top match up. I turned the axel a bit and both sides seated right back where they belong. Lubed it all up rotated tires and it rides great again. And then........

I got a code for a misfire on #4. Figures. its a bit choppy at idle. I have replaced most of the coils already, but don't think I have that one. I have about 70k on the plugs and will replace those tomorrow and wipe the code. I hope that will do it and stay off for inspection next month. If not I will spend the $$ and get anther coil.

My rear struts are working well, dry and seem to be good. The boots are not holding up well. Is anyone aware of any aftermarket boots I can put on them to for protection without having to take the strut apart ???

 

I don't think there are any boots that can be put on without taking springs off. And OEM seem to be the only boots that fit.

 

Energy suspension makes a split universal strut boot.and buy OEM coils only

 

I am not sure I will have the car. Maybe its time to hand it off to some kid who wants a great car and will do the work. I put in the Monroe Quick Struts. Will these boots work on these?

 

Yup

 

Todays project.... pulled the plugs. They were shot and #4 was horrible. Changed em out, the coils looked great and the injectors are all working. I use the 3 foot doll rod to listen in.
Check engine light reset and went up to the lake and back, about 100 miles.
Purring like a kitten.

 

Spoke too soon..... check engine back on. Swapped #4 coil with #2 coil, changed plugs. Light is back on.
Went to the autozone got a P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire. I already swapped the coil, new plugs and I am really sure the injector is working. I did feel a little flutter yesterday, not sure what that might be.
The other code is P1130; swirl valve not working. I can hear them squeeking in the morning, but this has been on and off for years, and the forums are at nauseum for solutions. Wish there was just and easy fix.

Thoughts for me before I dig into the other forums.

 

Where you get coils at

 

Dealership. These are the ones with the gray dots on them.

 

Check the harness connector did the 304 come back when you swapped the coils?

 

Yes, it did. Same code, same cylinder. All the wires look clean with no visible breaks or frays.
I have electric meters, I can check volts coming into the harness. Do you know what I should be looking for as far as voltage etc. ?
That plug I pulled was a mess when I pulled it, see the picture. I think something else is effecting this cylinder the way the plug looks but not sure what else. Ideas??

 

Pardon my learning, but does this job require the axle be removed in some way and new seals? Meaning seals at the tranny? Clarification appreciated for this front end noobie.