2000 I-30 with "cylinder 5 misfire code"
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
2000 I-30 with "cylinder 5 misfire code"
Well, if it's not one thing, it's another!
I was away for a few weeks and the car was not used. It started up fine and I went about one mile and simultaneously the "service engine soon" light went on and the car started to run ruff, both at idle and when I applied the gas.
I made it to Advance Auto and the code came up "cylinder 5 misfire". I guess that would make sense for the ruff idle and when applying the gas. The folks at Advance Auto thought the problem could be the spark plug or the coil. I would not think it would be the spark plug because they were changed about 30,000 miles ago and the car currently has 85,000 miles.
Now here is what is crazy. After Advance Auto checked the code, I re-started the car. The problem completely went away! I will drive it around today, but I would really appreciate opinions on what to do, if anything.
Could this be tied to the fact that the car was not used for a few weeks? I will report back later today, but assuming the problem does not come back and the recommendations are to do nothing so long as the problem does not come back, how can I get the "service engine soon" light off? A friend said to disconnect the battery. If this will get the light off, does it make a difference which cable I disconnect and for how long?
Thanks much.
Anovice
I was away for a few weeks and the car was not used. It started up fine and I went about one mile and simultaneously the "service engine soon" light went on and the car started to run ruff, both at idle and when I applied the gas.
I made it to Advance Auto and the code came up "cylinder 5 misfire". I guess that would make sense for the ruff idle and when applying the gas. The folks at Advance Auto thought the problem could be the spark plug or the coil. I would not think it would be the spark plug because they were changed about 30,000 miles ago and the car currently has 85,000 miles.
Now here is what is crazy. After Advance Auto checked the code, I re-started the car. The problem completely went away! I will drive it around today, but I would really appreciate opinions on what to do, if anything.
Could this be tied to the fact that the car was not used for a few weeks? I will report back later today, but assuming the problem does not come back and the recommendations are to do nothing so long as the problem does not come back, how can I get the "service engine soon" light off? A friend said to disconnect the battery. If this will get the light off, does it make a difference which cable I disconnect and for how long?
Thanks much.
Anovice
you should have cleared your codes at Autozone. your SES light will go off by itself, after a certain number of drive cycles wtihout a problem...
I'd start shopping for new or used OEM gray dot coils, as your issues will likely come back if your coil is on its way out...it starts to act up intermittently, then more often and more often.
Do NOT use aftermarket coils on this car
I'd start shopping for new or used OEM gray dot coils, as your issues will likely come back if your coil is on its way out...it starts to act up intermittently, then more often and more often.
Do NOT use aftermarket coils on this car
Background on the coil issue...
They are not 'sealed' as well as the better designed, later coils (gray dot coils). Since they aren't sealed as well, they allow moisture into the electical components and eventually short them out.
They are not 'sealed' as well as the better designed, later coils (gray dot coils). Since they aren't sealed as well, they allow moisture into the electical components and eventually short them out.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
I drove the car around all day running errands and it ran good. No misfire. Of course, the "Service Engine Soon" light stayed on all day.
On the way to a stop I passed another Advance Auto. I stopped in and they too did a check. It came up with a code P1320 and I was told it was the "ignition signal". What happened to "cylinder number 5 misfire"?
After my last of many stops before returning home, I noticed a Pep Boys. I said what the heck and I stopped there too. The said code P1320, the same as the second Advance Auto.
I got home and the "Service Engine Soon" light was still on from this morning. My husband disconnected the positive terminal to the battery for about 10 minutes, re-connected it and I drove around for about 1/2 hour. The car ran good and the "Service Engine Soon" light stayed off. From Amerikaner83's post, I read that as no surprise. It will happen again.
What confuses me, is what is the difference between an "ignition coil" and a Coil for cylinder 5? From reading the above two posts, it seems the coils can and do go bad on my car.
Here are my questions:
1. Since it is a 6 cylinder car, are you saying replace all 6 coils?
2. Is there an "ignition coil" in addition to the 6 other coils?
3. Are you saying to go with only with only Nissan coils and are Nissan coils "grey dot coils"?
4. The person at Advance Auto said I will also need and "upper plenum gasket", the gasket between the upper and lower intake. The reason he said is because the mechanic will need to take off the upper intake to gain access to the rear coils, 1, 3 and 5. Is this correct?
5. I am scheduled to take a trip this weekend which is 275 miles round trip. I will not be able to get the coils changed before I go. Should I be concerned and rent a car instead?
Thanks much.
Anovice
On the way to a stop I passed another Advance Auto. I stopped in and they too did a check. It came up with a code P1320 and I was told it was the "ignition signal". What happened to "cylinder number 5 misfire"?
After my last of many stops before returning home, I noticed a Pep Boys. I said what the heck and I stopped there too. The said code P1320, the same as the second Advance Auto.
I got home and the "Service Engine Soon" light was still on from this morning. My husband disconnected the positive terminal to the battery for about 10 minutes, re-connected it and I drove around for about 1/2 hour. The car ran good and the "Service Engine Soon" light stayed off. From Amerikaner83's post, I read that as no surprise. It will happen again.
What confuses me, is what is the difference between an "ignition coil" and a Coil for cylinder 5? From reading the above two posts, it seems the coils can and do go bad on my car.
Here are my questions:
1. Since it is a 6 cylinder car, are you saying replace all 6 coils?
2. Is there an "ignition coil" in addition to the 6 other coils?
3. Are you saying to go with only with only Nissan coils and are Nissan coils "grey dot coils"?
4. The person at Advance Auto said I will also need and "upper plenum gasket", the gasket between the upper and lower intake. The reason he said is because the mechanic will need to take off the upper intake to gain access to the rear coils, 1, 3 and 5. Is this correct?
5. I am scheduled to take a trip this weekend which is 275 miles round trip. I will not be able to get the coils changed before I go. Should I be concerned and rent a car instead?
Thanks much.
Anovice
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 187
From: FloriDUH
I found clearing a misfire code doesn't usually bring it back immediately, at least when it first happens. I think the coil(s) degrade such that for awhile they work 90% of the time, but then pop out of spec a few times and trip the code. As long as you don't feel a misfire, reset it and see if it comes back, shouldn't hurt anything, but you might want to do a search for a replacement part so you're ready in case it returns.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 836
From: Connecticut
1. If I were you, I would only replace the broken coil. Keep the ALMOST broken one for emergencies maybe? Coils are expensive so when mine die I only replace that one. At 138k I have changed one. OEM only!
2. No.
3. YES! The gray dots are updated coils.
4. Correct.
5. What is your plan if the coil dies while you are 100+ miles away? That should answer your question.
2. No.
3. YES! The gray dots are updated coils.
4. Correct.
5. What is your plan if the coil dies while you are 100+ miles away? That should answer your question.
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 187
From: FloriDUH
Here are my questions:
1. Since it is a 6 cylinder car, are you saying replace all 6 coils?
2. Is there an "ignition coil" in addition to the 6 other coils?
3. Are you saying to go with only with only Nissan coils and are Nissan coils "grey dot coils"?
4. The person at Advance Auto said I will also need and "upper plenum gasket", the gasket between the upper and lower intake. The reason he said is because the mechanic will need to take off the upper intake to gain access to the rear coils, 1, 3 and 5. Is this correct?
5. I am scheduled to take a trip this weekend which is 275 miles round trip. I will not be able to get the coils changed before I go. Should I be concerned and rent a car instead?
1. Since it is a 6 cylinder car, are you saying replace all 6 coils?
2. Is there an "ignition coil" in addition to the 6 other coils?
3. Are you saying to go with only with only Nissan coils and are Nissan coils "grey dot coils"?
4. The person at Advance Auto said I will also need and "upper plenum gasket", the gasket between the upper and lower intake. The reason he said is because the mechanic will need to take off the upper intake to gain access to the rear coils, 1, 3 and 5. Is this correct?
5. I am scheduled to take a trip this weekend which is 275 miles round trip. I will not be able to get the coils changed before I go. Should I be concerned and rent a car instead?
2) no, just 6 coils
3) the newest version of the Nissan coils have grey dots, be sure to use those and not the older ones as they tend to fail. and yes, most people who have tried aftermarket coils have had problems, so unless you are feeling lucky, don't chance it and use Nissan coils
4) i replace cylinder 1 coil and did not have to remove the gasket, not sure about 3 and 5, but I doubt it. i think the issue is that these cars tend to leak oil and replacing the gasket may be necessary/helpful, but only if you are already burning oil (my car doesn't burn **any** oil and i've never replaced the gasket)
5) the problem you can have is a weak/dying coil can suddenly cause very strong misfires, misfires so strong it'll shake your car, and you really don't want to get stuck out in the middle of nowhere in that situation. if it were me i'd either replace the suspected bad coil or at least buy one and take it with me.
If you are talking about an 00-01 maxima/i30, you should not have to remove the upper intake plenum to remove the coils. The rears are shaped in such a way that they can squeeze through the space available in our plenums. The 02+ are a different story. On those it is necessary to remove the plenum when doing any coil and spark plug work.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Hi Again after about 1 year!
Well, after a year and about 4,000 miles, I am still living with the problem (code P1320 (or PO1320) Primary Ignition Signal) and I have decided it's time to do something.
This past weekend I took a ride in the country and out of the blue, the car started "chug along" as if I were running out of gas. Less than 5 minutes later, the car ran perfectly for 4 hours and a over 150 miles.
I did not use the car in the past 2 days and when I started the car, it ran a bit rough for about 1 minute. Within a few minutes the "Service Engine Soon Light" went on. I immediately went to Advance Auto and with their little diagnostic devise said the code was P1320 (or maybe they said PO1320).
Also, there is another consistent issue that woul appear to be related. Almost always (except today) when I start the car when it is cold, it starts perfectly and goes to normal idle immediately. However, also about 100% of the time when the car is warm and I start the car (like after the supermarket), it stalls. The car could stall 3 or 4 times before it "catches" and then it goes to a perfect idle and runs great. Go figure!
The car has 86,000 miles and being I know nothing about cars, I feel I need to learn a bit more so the mechanic does not do more than necessary. To this end, I have these additional questions:
1. Assuming the problem is with one of the coils. Before I buy 6 Nissan gray dots, which are expensive, can a mechanic determine which coil is causing the problem? The spark plugs were changed at about 50,000 miles.
2. In 14 years, the coils have never been changed and the car has lived in both warm and cold temperatures. Instead of asking and of course paying the mechanic to figure out which coil is bad, would it be wiser to have all 6 coils changed?
3. Could the problem be the Mass Air Flow Sensor? If so, can it be cleaned instead of purchasing a new one?
Any thoughts and advice on directions to go in based on this new information, would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks much.
Anovice
Well, after a year and about 4,000 miles, I am still living with the problem (code P1320 (or PO1320) Primary Ignition Signal) and I have decided it's time to do something.
This past weekend I took a ride in the country and out of the blue, the car started "chug along" as if I were running out of gas. Less than 5 minutes later, the car ran perfectly for 4 hours and a over 150 miles.
I did not use the car in the past 2 days and when I started the car, it ran a bit rough for about 1 minute. Within a few minutes the "Service Engine Soon Light" went on. I immediately went to Advance Auto and with their little diagnostic devise said the code was P1320 (or maybe they said PO1320).
Also, there is another consistent issue that woul appear to be related. Almost always (except today) when I start the car when it is cold, it starts perfectly and goes to normal idle immediately. However, also about 100% of the time when the car is warm and I start the car (like after the supermarket), it stalls. The car could stall 3 or 4 times before it "catches" and then it goes to a perfect idle and runs great. Go figure!
The car has 86,000 miles and being I know nothing about cars, I feel I need to learn a bit more so the mechanic does not do more than necessary. To this end, I have these additional questions:
1. Assuming the problem is with one of the coils. Before I buy 6 Nissan gray dots, which are expensive, can a mechanic determine which coil is causing the problem? The spark plugs were changed at about 50,000 miles.
2. In 14 years, the coils have never been changed and the car has lived in both warm and cold temperatures. Instead of asking and of course paying the mechanic to figure out which coil is bad, would it be wiser to have all 6 coils changed?
3. Could the problem be the Mass Air Flow Sensor? If so, can it be cleaned instead of purchasing a new one?
Any thoughts and advice on directions to go in based on this new information, would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks much.
Anovice
you need to replace all 6 coils with the gray dot coils from Nissan... do not use aftermarket coils. replace all coils with OEM gray dot nissan coils and move on with your life... I did that almost 60,000 miles ago and never since had a single problem with misfire
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 131
From: North Wales, PA
Hi Again after about 1 year!
Well, after a year and about 4,000 miles, I am still living with the problem (code P1320 (or PO1320) Primary Ignition Signal) and I have decided it's time to do something.
This past weekend I took a ride in the country and out of the blue, the car started "chug along" as if I were running out of gas. Less than 5 minutes later, the car ran perfectly for 4 hours and a over 150 miles.
I did not use the car in the past 2 days and when I started the car, it ran a bit rough for about 1 minute. Within a few minutes the "Service Engine Soon Light" went on. I immediately went to Advance Auto and with their little diagnostic devise said the code was P1320 (or maybe they said PO1320).
Also, there is another consistent issue that woul appear to be related. Almost always (except today) when I start the car when it is cold, it starts perfectly and goes to normal idle immediately. However, also about 100% of the time when the car is warm and I start the car (like after the supermarket), it stalls. The car could stall 3 or 4 times before it "catches" and then it goes to a perfect idle and runs great. Go figure!
The car has 86,000 miles and being I know nothing about cars, I feel I need to learn a bit more so the mechanic does not do more than necessary. To this end, I have these additional questions:
1. Assuming the problem is with one of the coils. Before I buy 6 Nissan gray dots, which are expensive, can a mechanic determine which coil is causing the problem? The spark plugs were changed at about 50,000 miles.
2. In 14 years, the coils have never been changed and the car has lived in both warm and cold temperatures. Instead of asking and of course paying the mechanic to figure out which coil is bad, would it be wiser to have all 6 coils changed?
3. Could the problem be the Mass Air Flow Sensor? If so, can it be cleaned instead of purchasing a new one?
Any thoughts and advice on directions to go in based on this new information, would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks much.
Anovice
Well, after a year and about 4,000 miles, I am still living with the problem (code P1320 (or PO1320) Primary Ignition Signal) and I have decided it's time to do something.
This past weekend I took a ride in the country and out of the blue, the car started "chug along" as if I were running out of gas. Less than 5 minutes later, the car ran perfectly for 4 hours and a over 150 miles.
I did not use the car in the past 2 days and when I started the car, it ran a bit rough for about 1 minute. Within a few minutes the "Service Engine Soon Light" went on. I immediately went to Advance Auto and with their little diagnostic devise said the code was P1320 (or maybe they said PO1320).
Also, there is another consistent issue that woul appear to be related. Almost always (except today) when I start the car when it is cold, it starts perfectly and goes to normal idle immediately. However, also about 100% of the time when the car is warm and I start the car (like after the supermarket), it stalls. The car could stall 3 or 4 times before it "catches" and then it goes to a perfect idle and runs great. Go figure!
The car has 86,000 miles and being I know nothing about cars, I feel I need to learn a bit more so the mechanic does not do more than necessary. To this end, I have these additional questions:
1. Assuming the problem is with one of the coils. Before I buy 6 Nissan gray dots, which are expensive, can a mechanic determine which coil is causing the problem? The spark plugs were changed at about 50,000 miles.
2. In 14 years, the coils have never been changed and the car has lived in both warm and cold temperatures. Instead of asking and of course paying the mechanic to figure out which coil is bad, would it be wiser to have all 6 coils changed?
3. Could the problem be the Mass Air Flow Sensor? If so, can it be cleaned instead of purchasing a new one?
Any thoughts and advice on directions to go in based on this new information, would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks much.
Anovice
Recently (month ago) I faced the exact same issue with cylinder 3 misfire. I experienced the exact scenario... when its cool in the morning it starts and runs like new. Once its warmed up or drivng home in the afternoon.... chug chug chugs along.
I got the SES light intermittently and finally took it to my mechanic. Turns out the cylinder 3 coil was bad. I had him change coils 1, 3, 5 (the rear 3) bc it takes alot for them to access the rear cylinders and I'd hate change one now, and have to pay the labor again to change another.
Lng story short, I also had all six spark plugs changed as it has 109k miles and I assumed the previous owner never changed them.
I am pretty sure I did not get oem coils... I didnt read up on my issue enougj before having the work done. I would follow the recommendations from everyone here though and get OEM.
So to answer your questions:
1. They can test which coil is bad and then you can decide which ones to replace.
2. Its best to just have them test which one is bad. I would also highly recommned purchasing an OBD2 scanner. This will allow you to scan for codes yourself and save you multiple trips to the various shops for code reading. It will also give you some knowledge prior to going to a mechanic. I just bought a bluetooth one on ebay that I pair with an android app called Torque.
3. My guess is that it is probably not the MAF. But it would not hurt to clean it. There is an EXCELLENT write up on how to clean it in the DIY section of this forum. I just did it myself, took about 15 minutes.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by alanfury75; May 6, 2014 at 07:20 PM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 131
From: North Wales, PA
Sorry, couple more things.
If you are feeling really adventurous there is an awesome write up on how to change tje ignition coils. I mention this bc I wish I would have seen it before I let a mechanic do it. I could have at least tried.
But you should also know... if it is only one or all of the rear coils (coils 1,3,5) then dont let them talk you into replacing all six. The front three coils are very easy to access, so the labor should be much less if you ever need to change one of them.
Also regarding the MAF, if and when you clean it, take a look at the clamps before and after the MAF location. I just found tjat one of mine was loose. Not sure if it was affecting anything. But you always want a tight seal so ther is proper air flow to the engine.
If you are feeling really adventurous there is an awesome write up on how to change tje ignition coils. I mention this bc I wish I would have seen it before I let a mechanic do it. I could have at least tried.
But you should also know... if it is only one or all of the rear coils (coils 1,3,5) then dont let them talk you into replacing all six. The front three coils are very easy to access, so the labor should be much less if you ever need to change one of them.
Also regarding the MAF, if and when you clean it, take a look at the clamps before and after the MAF location. I just found tjat one of mine was loose. Not sure if it was affecting anything. But you always want a tight seal so ther is proper air flow to the engine.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Search around. There are a bunch of threads on replacing coils. It is very simple. You literally need to take off the bolt and pull it out and replace it.
As for testing the coils, you aren't going to get any shop to test them. There are testing procedures on the org using a multimeter. That is not foolproof though. Also, the numbers you get may not match the numbers posted. The key if you test this way is to determine if one of the coils is way out of whack with the others.
Do NOT get autozone coils. I've had terrible experiences with getting bad coils or getting ones that die quickly. Last time I dealt with this, I got 3 separate bad coils that I tested with my multimeter and knew they wouldn't work because the impedence was off.
I would get one good coil and then simply start swapping them out in the rear until the problem goes away. If no swap fixes things then you need to take a close look at the replacement coil. IMO get it from Nissan or what I did - the junkyard for $15.
Doing it this way will save you a ton of money.
As for testing the coils, you aren't going to get any shop to test them. There are testing procedures on the org using a multimeter. That is not foolproof though. Also, the numbers you get may not match the numbers posted. The key if you test this way is to determine if one of the coils is way out of whack with the others.
Do NOT get autozone coils. I've had terrible experiences with getting bad coils or getting ones that die quickly. Last time I dealt with this, I got 3 separate bad coils that I tested with my multimeter and knew they wouldn't work because the impedence was off.
I would get one good coil and then simply start swapping them out in the rear until the problem goes away. If no swap fixes things then you need to take a close look at the replacement coil. IMO get it from Nissan or what I did - the junkyard for $15.
Doing it this way will save you a ton of money.
Last edited by Max_Gator; May 7, 2014 at 07:44 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Thank you so much for your posts!
Unfortunately I am not going to be able to do this, but do have a reliable mechanic. He allows me to purchase the parts to save some money. And unfortunately, this probably also means that I will need to purchase all 6 coils and have him replace all 6.
The only other alternative is to purchase all 6 and per Max Gator's post, "get one good coil and then simply start swapping them out in the rear until the problem goes away", and if the other coils are not used, see if I can return them.
This brings me to my question. As a woman, I just can't deal with car problems (not all woman), and based on the posts and a search on the forum, it seems clear to go with OEM on the coils. I called the local Nissan Dealership and told them I have a 2000 I-30. They said they were the same coils as a 2000 Maxima. I could not believe the prices for the coils. Just over $100 each! I then called the local Infiniti Dealership and they were even more!!
I would greatly appreciate recommendations on a few Nissan Dealerships that I can call for prices or other places who sell OEM coils that may be less expensive.
Thanks much.
Anovice
Unfortunately I am not going to be able to do this, but do have a reliable mechanic. He allows me to purchase the parts to save some money. And unfortunately, this probably also means that I will need to purchase all 6 coils and have him replace all 6.
The only other alternative is to purchase all 6 and per Max Gator's post, "get one good coil and then simply start swapping them out in the rear until the problem goes away", and if the other coils are not used, see if I can return them.
This brings me to my question. As a woman, I just can't deal with car problems (not all woman), and based on the posts and a search on the forum, it seems clear to go with OEM on the coils. I called the local Nissan Dealership and told them I have a 2000 I-30. They said they were the same coils as a 2000 Maxima. I could not believe the prices for the coils. Just over $100 each! I then called the local Infiniti Dealership and they were even more!!
I would greatly appreciate recommendations on a few Nissan Dealerships that I can call for prices or other places who sell OEM coils that may be less expensive.
Thanks much.
Anovice
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
I have looking for the write up that you reference, but I cannot find it. Could you please point in in the right direction?
Thanks.
Anovice
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 131
From: North Wales, PA
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html
As tosheto said, it's very easy. It's actually very simple and great maintenance to follow every time you change out your air filter.
Last edited by alanfury75; May 8, 2014 at 02:17 PM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 131
From: North Wales, PA
You could try courtesynissan.com or rockauto.com. At rockauto I believe some here on the forum had said that the Hitachi coils are the OEM brand that Nissan/Infiniti uses. Don't rely 100% on my info... there's many many more experienced and knowledgeable people on here that can answer that.
I never seen an i30 uim but if its like the 00vi your mechanic shouldnt have to remove the upper manifold and you should only send him to the local scrap yard to pull a few coils to swap . I'll start with #5 since the ecu once gave you this code.
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 131
From: North Wales, PA
Damnit, you're right! I just realized she said she has a 2000 I30. They are identical to the early 5th Gen Maxima.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
You are correct, I once did get that code.
Since I like to try and get somewhat involved, I too can go to a local scrap yard. Should I look for a #5 coil off of a 2000 Maxima or I-30? Are there other year Maxima's or I-30's I should ask for the #5 coil? If this path does not work, is it advisable to go to Rock Auto and buy the #5 coil if the manufacturer is Hitachi?
On the subject, where can I find a diagram showing the coils and specifically the #5 coil?
Thanks much.
Anovice
Just get the three on the rear bank(closest to winshield... dont be specific with them they prey on you when they know you really need something...ask for something generic that way you can look around and find them yourself , go there and ask for a mirror per say, and look at all the cars and what they have to offer, make a list of other cosmetic items you'll like to change cuz you might find them so bring enough cash....
Last edited by nestorlugo; May 8, 2014 at 08:07 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,837
From: NYC
You could try courtesynissan.com or rockauto.com. At rockauto I believe some here on the forum had said that the Hitachi coils are the OEM brand that Nissan/Infiniti uses. Don't rely 100% on my info... there's many many more experienced and knowledgeable people on here that can answer that.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
You are correct, I once did get that code.
Since I like to try and get somewhat involved, I too can go to a local scrap yard. Should I look for a #5 coil off of a 2000 Maxima or I-30? Are there other year Maxima's or I-30's I should ask for the #5 coil? If this path does not work, is it advisable to go to Rock Auto and buy the #5 coil if the manufacturer is Hitachi?
On the subject, where can I find a diagram showing the coils and specifically the #5 coil?
Thanks much.
Anovice
More than likely the only kind of junkyard that has coils is a upull it yourself type.
Which doesn't seem like it will work for you. Maybe you live near someone on here who could help. Or maybe someone would send you a coil from a jy. If I was going, I would do it.
Any one from a 2000 or 2001 max or i30. I don't know if the cold from 2002+ fit or not.
If you can pull a coil, you can install it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
My bad... it's actually in the "Installation" sticky.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html
As tosheto said, it's very easy. It's actually very simple and great maintenance to follow every time you change out your air filter.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html
As tosheto said, it's very easy. It's actually very simple and great maintenance to follow every time you change out your air filter.
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the information on the coils.
Regarding the MAF, I have a friend coming over tomorrow and we are going to clean it. The instructions look simple and the pictures are great and easy to follow.
The only question I have is regarding the words under the last picture mentioning "Relearn procedure". I have some idea what this means but absolutely no idea how to do it. However, I have read here form some that have cleaned their MAF that this procedure was not necessary. Is it hit or miss? In case I have an idle problem after cleaning the MAF, where can I find the relearn procedures ("ECU reset and idle relearn procedures")?
Thanks much.
Anovice
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
I found an Infiniti dealer online that sells OEM coils for $79.05 each. Also, I know many people with 2nd gen Q45s that report good results with Hitachi coils.
http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/pa...gnition%20coil
http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/pa...gnition%20coil
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 131
From: North Wales, PA
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the information on the coils.
Regarding the MAF, I have a friend coming over tomorrow and we are going to clean it. The instructions look simple and the pictures are great and easy to follow.
The only question I have is regarding the words under the last picture mentioning "Relearn procedure". I have some idea what this means but absolutely no idea how to do it. However, I have read here form some that have cleaned their MAF that this procedure was not necessary. Is it hit or miss? In case I have an idle problem after cleaning the MAF, where can I find the relearn procedures ("ECU reset and idle relearn procedures")?
Thanks much.
Anovice
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the information on the coils.
Regarding the MAF, I have a friend coming over tomorrow and we are going to clean it. The instructions look simple and the pictures are great and easy to follow.
The only question I have is regarding the words under the last picture mentioning "Relearn procedure". I have some idea what this means but absolutely no idea how to do it. However, I have read here form some that have cleaned their MAF that this procedure was not necessary. Is it hit or miss? In case I have an idle problem after cleaning the MAF, where can I find the relearn procedures ("ECU reset and idle relearn procedures")?
Thanks much.
Anovice
Just undo ground terminal on your battery before removing the maf and make sure is DRY before installation, you shouldnt have any problems. Also drive like a grandma for a few driving cycles after...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Hey guys,
Well, I think I got it done and if so, the unconventional way.
I was never able to get the harness separated from the MAF. I pressed the green clip down, but it did not release. And, I did not know if the gray housing where the clips go in, separates from the black MAF. Does it?
Yes, it should be simple, but it was not for me. Instead, I ended up unscrewing and removing the two screws holding in the MAF and removing it as one piece...MAF, Gray housing, and harness. I then put a rag around the harness, and gray housing connected to the MAF and carefully sprayed the tunnels and all areas of the MAF with the CRC Mass Flow Sensor Cleaner, let it dry for 20 minutes, and put it back in with the two screws.
The car runs fine, but I would like to know what I did not do right. If the green clip should release the harness and expose the 4 pins, why couldn't I get it to release? I was trying to get the gray housing to separate from the black MAF using slight pressure with a screwdriver, but I was concerned about damaging the bottom of the gray housing and top of the MAF.
So I know for next time, where did I go wrong and how can I correct it? Being I did spray down the MAF good, did I at least the job done?
Anovice
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,837
From: NYC
Hey guys,
Well, I think I got it done and if so, the unconventional way.
I was never able to get the harness separated from the MAF. I pressed the green clip down, but it did not release. And, I did not know if the gray housing where the clips go in, separates from the black MAF. Does it?
Yes, it should be simple, but it was not for me. Instead, I ended up unscrewing and removing the two screws holding in the MAF and removing it as one piece...MAF, Gray housing, and harness. I then put a rag around the harness, and gray housing connected to the MAF and carefully sprayed the tunnels and all areas of the MAF with the CRC Mass Flow Sensor Cleaner, let it dry for 20 minutes, and put it back in with the two screws.
The car runs fine, but I would like to know what I did not do right. If the green clip should release the harness and expose the 4 pins, why couldn't I get it to release? I was trying to get the gray housing to separate from the black MAF using slight pressure with a screwdriver, but I was concerned about damaging the bottom of the gray housing and top of the MAF.
So I know for next time, where did I go wrong and how can I correct it? Being I did spray down the MAF good, did I at least the job done?
Anovice
Well, I think I got it done and if so, the unconventional way.
I was never able to get the harness separated from the MAF. I pressed the green clip down, but it did not release. And, I did not know if the gray housing where the clips go in, separates from the black MAF. Does it?
Yes, it should be simple, but it was not for me. Instead, I ended up unscrewing and removing the two screws holding in the MAF and removing it as one piece...MAF, Gray housing, and harness. I then put a rag around the harness, and gray housing connected to the MAF and carefully sprayed the tunnels and all areas of the MAF with the CRC Mass Flow Sensor Cleaner, let it dry for 20 minutes, and put it back in with the two screws.
The car runs fine, but I would like to know what I did not do right. If the green clip should release the harness and expose the 4 pins, why couldn't I get it to release? I was trying to get the gray housing to separate from the black MAF using slight pressure with a screwdriver, but I was concerned about damaging the bottom of the gray housing and top of the MAF.
So I know for next time, where did I go wrong and how can I correct it? Being I did spray down the MAF good, did I at least the job done?
Anovice
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Is the gray housing designed to be separated from the MAF? If so, do you carefully work around the base with a screwdriver until the gray housing and MAF are separated?
I KNOW I cleaned the black MAF, but I needed to wrap a towel around the gray housing and wires coming from the harness into the green clip so not to get the cleaning fluid all over the wires.
Where I am driving is were there other parts to clean with the CRC Mass Flow Sensor Cleaner that I was not able to get to? If not, then I would think the instructions would be "unscrew the two screws, pull out the MAF and spray it".
Anovice
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
I guess for the next time I need to find a way to release the green clip and separate from the housing. Maybe I too have oil in there causing the intermittent misfire code 5.
Thanks much.
Anovice
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Bought the complete OEM set on EBAY for $279.00 Work great
Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-maxima-Infiniti-I30-2000-2001-Ignition-coils-22448-2Y000-22448-2Y005-/121338684866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item1c405965c2
Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-maxima-Infiniti-I30-2000-2001-Ignition-coils-22448-2Y000-22448-2Y005-/121338684866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item1c405965c2
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