I think there needs to be a sticky/warning for Maxima owners
and the problem/flaw of corrosion on the cross member support
and radiator support subframe. It isn't easy to learn about
the problem from the symptoms.

Here is my series of events...

I have a 2002 Maxima on Canada's east coast, owned for 2 years.

One morning, when starting, I notice the idle is not smooth.
It is a change from the usual smooth purr. The idle improves
a little as it warms, but over the next several weeks, it
continually worsens.

Searching these forums and google, the symptom seems to point
to ignition coils. I go to a dealer that has been decent
to work with, and they cannot find a problem. They suggest
a new MAF sensor. The forums show how to clean same. I
did this and it might have helped the engine a little, but
did not address the roughness. I figure in time I'll learn
what the problem is.

Several times, I notice a big shake of the car when moving
from Park to Drive without letting the idle come down
below 1200 RPM first.

A few months later, I notice an exhaust leak near the flex
pipe on the Y pipe. I ask my wife to switch between
Park and Drive while observing the engine, and I can see
the engine moving up and down several inches more than it should.

I asked about this with a Nissan Tech online and he suggested
checking the motor mounts. I schedule to have this checked
as well as the Y pipe for any possible cheap repair.

It seems logical the excessive motor movement has stressed
the exhaust pipes near the engine.

Before that appointment comes up, I have leaking on the top
edge of the radiator. The radiator is replaced and the
mechanic suggests the guys at Midas may be able to weld the
Y pipe problem.

It seems logical the excessive motor movement had stressed
the radiator crimps.

I ask Midas to weld any repair possible, and investigate the
engine mount for possible problem.

They discover the cross member support and the radiator
support are no longer connected. It will cost $700 to
fix the Y pipe, and likely over $1000 to repair the
radiator support and cross member problem.

At carproblemzoo.com several mechanics have discussed this
problem with Maxima and Altima vehicles spanning 1995 to 2003.

If I search cross member or lower rad support on the forums,
I will learn about the problem. If I search for engine vibration,
or thud when switching from Park to Drive, I do not learn of
the potential cross member frame and raditator support issue.

Some of the folks posting at carproblemzoo believe the front of
the engine could drop down and if this caught the road
when hitting a pothole it could create a bad accident.

 

I'm surprised you get that much engine movement due to one rusted out engine mount since I assume the other 3 mounts are in good condition. My front mount has been rusted out for about 5 years now and I didn't discover it until last November, and I haven't had any of the issues you have. So I'm wondering if perhaps some of your other mounts are bad as well.

Anyway, if this is your DD then you'll have to get it fixed, however make sure you get a Nissan radiator support and not an aftermarket, or you'll be replacing it again in just a year or two! Part costs around $150-$175, but the hard part is replacing it, which is why shops charge close to $1000. Some on here have done the repair themselves, but you'll need a welder and quite a few hours to break the old one off.

 

If you look at this article on the forums, it shows a photo of a
cross member and two of the engine mounts:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/608877-rear-motor-mount-install-question.html

Imagine one end of that cross member is no longer bolted/welded to
anything. The mounts depend on the cross member to hold the engine
in place. That extra movement strains exhaust, transmission linkage
to the wheels, radiator, etc.

This is going to cost way to much to fix. It is time to get a new car.

Lately I've been buying 4 to 7 year old cars, but there are so few on
the market these days. I was considering an Altima to get
back to burning regular cheaper gas, but given the
poor corrosion resistance on the subframe with Altima and Maxima
in this age range, I'm not getting a used Nissan of that vintage.

The main reason I wanted to share this is that it is difficult to
learn of the cross member problem. If I had not been diligent
in tracking this, and a typical point A to point B driver,
I'd still be in the dark. Even the guy who replaced my radiator
didn't spot the problem.

The cross member failure should be highlighted in the common
problems sticky of this forum.

 

Only cost me $50 to fix mine and it will never rust again.btw you know our cars have 4 mounts right!so the engine is not going to drop out.excessive movement i can see.

 

I live in Canada too, but on the WEST coast, and I believe that a lot of the rust issues that come up with ANY car come from highly salted road way going places. I think that you find a the majority of owners come from places were salted roads are not an issue, and therefore you dont see a lot of peoples cars rusting out.

NOW thats not to say what you are saying is not important or doesnt derserve a sticky.

 

$50 How how how

 

Don't know if it twas him but read one post where someone just welded a big fat hunk of metal across the break in the support. That seems possible if your support is in good condition near the ends and only bad in the center.

 

yeah that was him

 

They use a ton of salt on the road here in Nebraska but i make sure to wash under the car during the winter once a week so even though the maxima is 13 years old the support is good as new.

I use my snapon camera on a snake neck to look inside of it to make sure there no internal rust.

I might spray some sealer inside of it just to add a layer of protection.

I check our body shop hear how much they would charge to do that work so you had a idea.

They said 4 hours of shop time if you have the part so around $385

 

Search i did a write up and parts list

 

Mine has a huge hunk of metal welded on lol. but welds are breaking off. bought new support from certifit for $59.99 but seen they literly snap n are so weak compared to. $160 Oem one so its still sitting in Garage.


ill probably pay a guy to grind my **** n reweld strong welds across mine and spray bedliner on it...