Still have two questions about struts and rust
#1
Still have two questions about struts and rust
1. How can I tell if my struts are shot? What is it that you feel with bad struts? What does the ride feel like after you get new struts? In the thread linked below I have pictures of my struts, but I didn't get a clear answer on what am I trying to feel for with worn struts.
2. I have light surface rust right now (see pictures in thread below). Is there something that can be done to stop the rust before it gets worse? Rust neutralizer from WalMart? Clear coat to keep water out? I just want to stop it where it is and keep it from getting worse.
Thanks!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...questions.html
2. I have light surface rust right now (see pictures in thread below). Is there something that can be done to stop the rust before it gets worse? Rust neutralizer from WalMart? Clear coat to keep water out? I just want to stop it where it is and keep it from getting worse.
Thanks!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...questions.html
#2
Was there something about the answers you got about the rust in your first thread that you disagree with?
Rust neutralizer or clearcoating simply isn't going to stop the rust. Neutralizer is generally used on minor surface rust as a prep before doing body work. It's not something you can put over rust and expect it to stop it in its tracks.
You're going to have to have body work done if you want to get rid of the rust. There's nothing you can do to stop the process. Luckily, your rust doesn't look bad. A shop should be able to repair it for a reasonable cost.
Rust neutralizer or clearcoating simply isn't going to stop the rust. Neutralizer is generally used on minor surface rust as a prep before doing body work. It's not something you can put over rust and expect it to stop it in its tracks.
You're going to have to have body work done if you want to get rid of the rust. There's nothing you can do to stop the process. Luckily, your rust doesn't look bad. A shop should be able to repair it for a reasonable cost.
#3
I just felt the rust is really minimal and was hoping for a cheap way to stop it in it's tracks.
You said you took yours to a body shop and had it repaired. How much did it cost?
Can you post before and after pictures?
Thanks.
You said you took yours to a body shop and had it repaired. How much did it cost?
Can you post before and after pictures?
Thanks.
#4
The thing about rust is, once it's started, it doesn't stop unless it's removed. It cost me about $600 to repair both wheel arches with new metal. Unfortunately, I don't have photos, but both arches were pretty bad. There were spots that were all but rusted-through. The repair looks factory-new.
#5
When your struts are wearing out, you may not notice anything because the change is gradual. As they wear, you may notice the car seems to bounce an extra time or two after going over a dip in the road But if they are really worn out, the car may bottom out on dips and bumps.
After you replace struts, you should notice that the car seems more steady when going over dips and bumps. By 100,000 miles, the struts should need to be replaced.
After you replace struts, you should notice that the car seems more steady when going over dips and bumps. By 100,000 miles, the struts should need to be replaced.
#6
When your struts are wearing out, you may not notice anything because the change is gradual. As they wear, you may notice the car seems to bounce an extra time or two after going over a dip in the road But if they are really worn out, the car may bottom out on dips and bumps.
After you replace struts, you should notice that the car seems more steady when going over dips and bumps. By 100,000 miles, the struts should need to be replaced.
After you replace struts, you should notice that the car seems more steady when going over dips and bumps. By 100,000 miles, the struts should need to be replaced.
Any suggestions on what brand of struts to purchase or where? ebay, autozone, etc?
#7
If you want to keep the factory ride and handling, go with Monroe. If you want something a little firmer, get KYB, but being firmer, you will feel the car shake a little more when you hit a bump or pothole.
As for where to buy them, I will stay out of that. Prices change, places have sales, so what was true last month, may be different today. In general, on-line can be cheapest. Just remember to add the shipping charges to get the true cost.
As for where to buy them, I will stay out of that. Prices change, places have sales, so what was true last month, may be different today. In general, on-line can be cheapest. Just remember to add the shipping charges to get the true cost.
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