I have a bit of a story to tell on this one guys. This has me a few shop owners stumped. (I have used the search function for 3 days now and not just on this forum)

A few month back I put in a new clutch because of what sounded like a throw out bearing (and 220,000 miles). After reassembly, The noise was still there. After some research we discovered it was my input shaft bearing. So last week me and a friend took out the transmission. I took it to a local shop that some guys from my work recommended. I asked him how much it would be to inspect the tranny, and press in the bearing. He explained that because that bearing was loose it probably scored the shaft and I would need a rebuild and quoted me anywhere from $500-$1000 for a full rebuild. (which I thought was a pretty good price) so I agreed. He calls the next day and tells me has great news. That EVERYTHING other than input shaft bearing was in perfect shape. Although he tells me it is going to be $500. I told him that was fine and I would pick it up the next day. I go in there with 7 quotes from other local shops ranging from $150 - $200. I asked him if we could work something out because he was so much higher than everyone else. I got cussed out and told to pay whatever I wanted and never come back. So I walked out with my tranny. We put it back in filled it with the gear oil, and it ran through all 7 gears. 1-6 and reverse. No problem. (my buddy broke the sensor on the top of the trans when removing it - I believe it was the neutral safety switch) - This was the only thing not connected. We installed the battery and started the car, Now I have NO reverse at all. It will not go into gear. We tried rolling the car backwards and matching the syncros, we tried it with the car off, the battery disconnected, everything we could think of. It will not go into reverse. ALL other forward gears work flawlessly. But whenever the car is in neutral, the reverse lights come on???

I replaced the neutral safety switch the next day. Still having problems with reverse and reverse lights on in neutral.

Needless to say, After the transmission shop tried to rip me off, I cant take it back there and I am really hoping I just missed something simple but I feel like we have checked a lot of the simple stuff... Any thoughts??

 

Bump this is crazy, someone help him!

 

First question is are you sure the shifter is going into the reverse gate,can you see the linkage in the trans fully locating into the reverse position?is the cable hooked up correctly?

 

You have the plugs on the harness switched between the neutral switch and the reverse switch on the transmission. They look similar and fit on both. As for not going into reverse - this isn't an electrical issue, it's mechanical. Hate to say it but, to me, it sounds like the shop messed up something with the rebuild...

The only thing I can suggest that you double check is that everything is ok with the shifter cables and nothing is crossed or bent/broken, etc. If the shifter feels normal, I doubt it's the case but it is something easy to check out.

 

I had a similar issue on my 6 speed. It ended up being a park neutral switch

 

Ill definately look into switching the pigtails - I have talked to several shops this morning and they all say it sounds like the shop didnt align the reverse fork correctly? Im not a transmission guy so i hope that makes sense to someone on here. lol

Additionally, I found out on my lunch break that the cruise control will not set. The light comes on when I turn it on but it will not set if that makes sense.....

 

Out of curiosity, how much did you end up paying the shop when given the option to pay whatever you wanted?

As for the CC issue -- this may be all tied together somehow. The neutral safety switch is wonky, and falsely reporting to the CC that it's in neutral, when it clearly isn't.

Another thing you can check is the pedal switches.... however since you mentioned the safety switch earlier, I'm sure it's tied to this.

 

I did not unplug the battery when I installed the new sensor.... Any chance that it needs to "reset" or something like that???? This just dawned on me

 

The cruise control does not have any direct connections with the transmission. The closest thing is a switch on the clutch pedal that would dis-engage the cruise when the pedal is stepped on. There is also a similar switch on the brake pedal.

These switches are operated by a small semi-soft plastic bumper that is attached to a bracket on the pedal arm. These bumpers will break up and fall out, which prevents the cruise from engaging.

There are a couple of different part numbers for them. One of them is 46584-S0100.