I'm having some vibration problems with my 2001 I30 (auto) at idle. If the car is in gear and the brakes are on, such as at a stop light, there is vibration in the steering wheel and throughout the car, along with some resonance. It is not severe, but bothersome. In particular stopping on a hill is bad. I can also feel the transmission more when down shifting coming to a stop.

This started recently when I had the front and rear electronic engine mounts replaced with Beck Arnley auto mounts. The old rear (axle) mount was worn. Before getting these replaced I did notice some resonance in reverse.

I went ahead and replaced the two side mounts but the vibration is the same. I also have new spark plugs and the engine runs fine.

I will mention that prior to this I had the CV axles replaced, if that has any bearing.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Would the quality of aftermarket mounts be bad enough to cause such vibration compared to OEM? If I have to I will get the OEM manual mounts and put them on, but only after I've exhausted all other options.

Edit: The car is due for a transmission flush. I have not checked the level lately.

Thanks for your help.

 

Op this is my oem rear mount after 188#@% mi,i replaced both with mt mounts and problem solved, if you must check to see if you have warranty on the b&a ones and try another pair...

 

Did the front motor mount have a wire harness coming off it?

 

Yes. They had been unplugged for a while due to the electronic part failing.

 

^
There is the issue... The mounts need to be plugged in

 

If you know for a fact that the front motor mounts had failed, DO NOT plug them in. The electric motor in the motor mount can cause the ECU to burn up, a very expensive repair.

Those motor mounts are filled with oil and if the oil leaks out, the mount will collapse because there isn't anything to support the weight of the engine. You probably need to replace them.

 

Perhaps I wasn't clear. I have already replaced the bad mounts with aftermarket electronic mounts. I was just explaining what had happened to the old set.

 

Anyone have experience with the Beck Arnley mounts? Wondering if I should just put OEM manual mounts on.

 

ECU scan needed still.
replace the mounts with Energy Suspension press in polyurethane motor bushings... you'll need the metal housing from a manual maxima for the front motor mount... WORTH IT.

Once replaced & ECU scanned for $100 at your local dealer... zip tie the harnesses for the mounts out if the way and leave them off(brown harnesses are to the right of the front valve cover

 

It could very well be the mounts you replaced them with. Personally, I went with OEM...a bit more expensive, but I felt it was worth it since they are electronic.

At this point you can't do much unless you want to drop more $$$$ to replace them again. Maybe try calling the manufacturer of the mounts and get their input to see if they have had any similar complaints or if there is a quick fix, or maybe a specific way to install them?

 

do you feel like you can do the R&R yourself?

 

Will get more vibrations with ES Mounts, he should of stuck with OEM ones if he wanted the exact feel from before with No Compromise....

 

front and rear mounts replaced with a non electric one.... i really don't know if the two electric mounts work simultaneously but i do know when the car is on D the rear mount takes most of the load and vice versa when on R....if you want to diminish NVH get one and one (at)&(MT)but the chances of your ECM getting fried with electric mount,or mounts is real(BIGCOMPROMISE) i hope this is not the case go with mt front and back and be worry free...

 

These were recently installed by a local mechanic who is fixing up my car on the side. He checked the engine for codes with a really nice computer so I don't know if that's what you meant.

The mounts are still within the return period, and he won't charge much to swap them out. I can get the OEM manual mounts for less than what the Beck Arnley electrics cost. I just don't want to do the swap unless there's a good chance this is the issue.

I know it's not going to be perfectly soft, but before this I had a nissan sentra, and never felt anything like this or in any other car I've driven.

 

Some if these responses are funny!!

The good feedback you've got consists of the fact stiffer mounts equal increased vibrations when in drive and stopped - just like you describe. Thats why the autos have electronic, to soften at idle (whether in drive or park) to prevent noise/vibrations. Given you say that you now have these vibrations suggest to me that the mounts are not functioning properly. Sounds like they are stuck in firm mode- which should only occure when the throttle is pressed.

So, since there are no codes, then again I can only think maybe the new mounts (or only one) is bad. Or, perhaps its a glitch and the battery needs to be disconnected to reset something? I'd have the mechanic test the harness while the engine is running (in park) then have someone give it throttle, and test if there is a change in the signal to the mounts. If it gets the proper signal, would seem to then be the mounts. Otherwise, there is an issue elsewhere.
Of course, if the mounts are not working, you still have the option of keeping them, especially if they are set to firm - just unplug them. Though, that would be a lot invested for something that isn't working.

 

I've got ES everything.... and my maxima loves them. He's describing a bad vibration especially when his on an incline I think. Installing my ES took all my vibrations away. OEM should be smoother, but only if they are not broken, if they are broken, it's hell & almost anything will be smoother 😋

 

Thanks for this. I'm aware the auto mounts soften. I can hear an electronic noise from them when changing gears and at ~1000 rpms driving around.

I will try the battery trick and also ask Beck Arnley.

It's bad enough that the other day when backing out of a parking spot on a flat surface I could see the steering wheel shaking and a rattling noise as soon as I put the car in reverse.

 

FYI, with the manual mounts and the ES mounts, they would break-in/soften after 500 miles so these might do the same.

 

I can't seem to find a clear answer about mount break-in. Some people say it's just the driver getting used to it.

The mechanic did mention that the old mounts were nicer (softer) than what he put in there.

Any thoughts on how OEM MT mounts would be compared to these electronic mounts?

 

He did an ECU scan. No problems. I'm going to e-mail Beck Arnley and see what they say.

 

You'll get used to it...

Only choice if you want what you had before would be get the auto oem ones ...

 

All rubber softens and wears out it after a while. I originally replaced my broken OEMs with some cheapo ebay ones and and the vibration was slight initially and then disappeared after 500 miles. They wore out after a year so I put in ES bushings and they too had somewhat harsh vibrations, but softened up after 500-1000 miles.

Currently, running the ES mounts for over a year and have an ever so slight vibration at idle that only the driver feels through the steering wheel.

 

Yeah, this is not just the steering wheel, it's the whole car. I feel it in the seat, center armrest, everything.

I'm wondering if this could be a transmission issue or something not related to the mounts. Before replacing the mounts I did have resonance in reverse. It's like getting the mounts made it worse by adding vibration. I'm also getting a noticeable knock from 1st to 2nd and more so from 2nd to first.

 

What about your right/passenger side and left/driver side mount?

Based on what you said above, I wonder whether your left mount, which supports the transmission, is worn out.

In my case (2000 SE AT), the right mount was bad, and the source of a) Clunking noise when turning or hitting potholes, and b) Funny whistling noise when accelerating. Of course, that only became obvious after its replacement.

My mechanic felt there is no reason to replace it. I bought the part and forced him to put it in. Both problems went away.

BTW, I recently disconnected my two electronic mounts (to avoid frying the ECU). I disconnected them in the "soft" state. I haven't noticed much change, but there is some vibration under acceleration that didn't use to be there. I am still observing and evaluating; should the vibration increase, I may go to MT mounts. Actually, I like how the car behaved with the electronic mount; if it weren't for the "fried ECU" problem, I would prefer to keep them.

Anyone tried/considered fusing the electronic mounts? I would love to hear from you....

 

We just replaced the two side mounts with Anchor mounts to see if it would help. There was no change.

He talked to a guy who worked at Nissan/Infiniti and said it's a common issue and the only solution is the oem mounts. I don't have a problem putting in the Nissan Electronic mounts save for the ECU problem. If I disconnect as soon as I hear the noise, can I avoid frying the ECU?

If anyone knows where I can get a good price on the factory mounts let me know. Best I've found is Courtesy Nissan.

 

courtesy is good as well as nissanpartsasap.com

If you aren't going to get the money back for the anchor mounts, I would run it for a couple months to see if they break in.

 

The problem is NOT because you did not get an electric mount. Don't mind George__ he has a mental problem. I replaced both crossmembers mounts with MANUAL mounts with ES poly inserts and the ONLY difference from stock is that its much stiffer and vibrates a little.

 

I replaced bad electrical mounts with aftermarket electrical mounts. Just wanted to clear that up.

When the electrics fail, do they do so in the firm or soft setting?

Edit: If your ES inserts aren't vibrating much, why would mine be the same or worse?

 

I talked to our Nisan service manager about this.

I told him that I disconnected my electronic mounts in order to avoid frying the ECU. He said "smart". I said "There is a tiny bit of vibration; should I buy new OEM mounts and connect them?" He said "Why? Even a new mount can fail and damage the ECU. And a new ECU is $1800".

His comments confirm the recommendation people made many times on this forum. So, the only question is what kind on non-electronic mounts to use. I have replaced my passenger-side mount with an Anchor mount and it works just fine. I am still running with the original (OEM) front front, rear, and transmission mounts, now disconnected.

The front mount is going soft and I may have to replace it soon. What brand/type would you guys recommend?

 

Yesterday i have change a front motor mount which was broken, but after that vibration increase, starting up i feel that engine will jump out, and in idle mode i have now a kind of massage seat. In driving mode everything is like must be and shift change is more smooth with this mount. The mount i used is DEA, did someone use them ? only idea i have is to change rest mounts which looks well.

P.S. to protect ECU i use 2A fuse, found in internet that it will be enough.

 

Interesting. So the Mosfet driver in the ECU is ok for up to 2 Amps ?

It should be a fast acting fuse, too .........

 

As i know driver is 4A max, so i guess 2A is ok. Read all this topic and no one write about engine balancing after mount change, officially there is no any mentions about this procedure, but for some cars it's required.

 

Well, most people don't have problems. I don't (I disconnected my F+R electronic mounts and replaced the my passenger side mount).

I wonder if one of your other mounts is bad. I would definitely check the passenger side mount. I would replace it anyway, they often fail. I think it's only $27 from RockAuto.com (Anchor part #9031).

I like your solution - fusing is the best, at least in theory. Let us know how it works for you.

 

Is frying the ECU common with electronic motor mount failure? I just happened to stumble across this thread trying to find how to change my motor mounts. I have 226k on mine, everything is original oem, and the last thing I need is a fried ECU due to a bad motor mount. I get a little vibration when I go into reverse that is more prominent now, should I be concerned and go ahead and place? Thanks for the hlep.

 

I just replaced my mounts and I opted not to replace the front with an electronic mount. Guy at my dealership said that was fine. But I'm not sure what to do with the wire that I disconnected from the mount. It's just hanging in the engine compartment. I'm afraid of ruining my ECU.

What do you guys do with that wire if you do NOT replace the mount with a electronic one?

Tks

 

I zipped-tied it to the next suitable thing.
And wrapped it up in electrical tape.

 

OP here with an update. The B/A mounts never got better, so I got some OEM (Bridgestone) electronic mounts from nissanpartsasap. The vibration issue is completely solved.

Interesting to note that the B/A and Dealer mounts were exactly the same. Both had Bridgestone branding. With the B/A mounts I would hear an electronic noise when they were supposed to be softening, but now I don't hear anything. Perhaps the B/A mounts were faulty and not softening for some reason, or are not of the same grade despite being Bridgestone on both. Just wanted to point this out in case it can help anyone.

 

sweet, glad you got it solved. And thanks for reporting back with an update.

 

I recently replaced my engine mounts with Anchor products. I had a really bad rattle/vibration in gear while stopped. All my mounts were blown/leaking.

Since replacing the mounts I still have some vibration, though better. Waiting to see if "break in" is an issue. At the same time, mine seems to be connected to a rough idle now. I can see my block vibrate and pulse. This was NOT the case before I changed out the mounts. The car idled smoothly.

I guessed it was a tune-up issue (50k on the NGK plugs). Replaced the plugs and found oil in the 5th combustion chamber. Lots of oil. Plug was completely covered from the threads down. I researched and have new valve covers and gaskets on the way. Hoping that's my issue.

So to my question:

I think I buttoned everything up correctly when I did the mounts. I only took off one wire harness which was under the air filter, so I could get the driver side mount out. I'm wondering if I might have done something in the process or knocked something loose, causing this problem.

The rough idle can best be described as a "pulsing." tTe engine idles okay for about 2 sec and then it shudders (feels like it wants to stall but not completely), then idles okay for 2 sec, then shudder (on and on and on). This happens in gear but is worse when I put the car in neutral.

I figure a combustion chamber filled with oil would mean that piston is not firing = ergo the oddly timed pulse. However, I find it really hard to believe that it didn't do this before I changed the engine mounts. Could I have done some damage lifting the engine during the repair? I used the trans bell housing as my lift point.

No lights or codes showing up. Gas mileage is down so something is amiss. Performance seems okay - no noticeable power loss.

Don't want to keep chasing rabbits if there is something obvious I am missing. Thoughts?

P.S. I did not replace the front mount with a electronic mount. Dealer told me that was not necessary. Curious if that would/could be the culprit.

 

I haven't yet seen a definitive answer about what that wiring is in the 1996 GLE. Is it a sensor, or is it a device that changes the firmness of the mount?

I would love to install a pair of urethane mounts, and would do that except for one thing: This is a pretty long journey to go through if it triggers a CEL.

I still can't believe how tight those bolts are; why does Nissan do this? By the way, I think it's threadlocker; they put on the high-strength threadlocker, and put them on to spec (75-95 ft/lbs); then we come along and take them apart, and SHEESH.

EDIT: Just looked in the FSM, and I'd say it's electronics to set the mount firmness; not a sensor.

That gives me hope that I don't have to use an electronic mount; I don't think it'll set a CEL. I think I should save the mounts I have and fill them with the generic Home Depot stuff.