I wanted to take a look at one of my spark plugs but when I pulled the coil off the boot stayed on the plug. I don't wanna pull the boot off the plug with a pliers any one know how to prevent this when I do a tune up?

 

Use dielectric grease on the end of the boot. That way the opening won't seize/melt to the plug.

I just dealt with this on my Quest. Took over an hour to get the whole thing out. Consisted of long nosed, narrow pliers pulling out a piece at a time. Then took some seal puller tools (basically a small screw driver with a hook at the end) to get the rubber boot out. Then I connected a PCV size hose to the end of my shop vac to suck out any debris before pulling the spark plug - didn't want garbage getting into the cylinder.

 

He's right I just used a air compressor to shoot whatever debris came out on mine. I used a wire hanger and bent it and sharpened the end took about 10 mins to get out.

 

Why did the boot come off the coil? From what I read ur supposed to twist if it wont pull off. I dont wanna run into a problem when im changing the plugs

 

When putting the coils back on, just coat the end of the boot with some dialectic grease and you will be ok. The heat from over the years probably caked it on there.

 

Good finally got a answer that makes sense thanks. What plugs would you suggest? Ngk good enough for these cars?

 

NGK are the best for your max. Everyone has their own opinion on which NGK's. Personally I use the iridiums but some use the coppers or platinums. Coppers are cheaper but require more frequent changes. Platinum are very good and last about 80,000km and the iridiums last about 100,000km. At least that's what NGK claims.

 

Iridium material lasts the longest followed by platinum followed by copper. Copper has the best conductivity and can be gapped where the others can't. Unless you're into performance the last bit of information doesn't really matter at all. I put the oem double laser platinum plugs in my car when I first got it but when I started to educate myself and got into performance I started using the coppers. I can gap them and change them as often as I please since they are cheap compared to the other plugs which are about ten dollars a plug, if you buy the real deal double laser platinum. I had that boot problem before too, p.i.t.a.

 

I replaced mine with the NGK double platniums which are what was in the car from the factory.

 

Cool.il get ngk. What else can I do? Plugs filters oil change pcv valve and Seafoam. I was looking into cleaning the intake and throttle body. Should I bother after I seafoamed? Another thing I've heard is o2 sensors might not work right even tho it won't throw a code. Im already changing the downstream rear but I don't wanna do all 4 but if I were to change any other 02 Wich ones would make the biggest difference?Is there any other valve that would make sense to change? 120k on it.

 

[QUOTE=maximasicilia
Im already changing the downstream rear but I don't wanna do all 4 but if I were to change any other 02 Wich ones would make the biggest difference?Is there any other valve that would make sense to change? 120k on it.[/QUOTE]

Since you said 4 o2's i assume you have a cali spec,so I'll do all four.
Can you clarify if its so. Because if your fed spec i wouldn't worry about a downstream sensor, heck mine is a fed spec i have a straight pipe and no codes sinces the two front ones are the ones that relay the info to the ecu

 

I have a downstream 1040code I cleared last week and came back. That's y im doing the downstream. I deff have 4 o2 sensors. I just checked Cali vs fed and is says Cali has more precats .i never checked how many precats I have.

 

Ok they all have two precats
but fed only has 3 o2's. If it came back I'll buy another rear sensor since you have 2 pre and two downstream .

 

Spark Plug wise you have options, NGK's, Denso and Bosch. Right now I'm running Iridium Bosch and they work the same way as NGK's. Its your call on that.