Cold start/idle issue.
#1
Cold start/idle issue. (Almost Solved)
So I have searched the 4m, asked a few questions, tested some stuff, changed some stuff and am just pulling my hair out trying to get my SES light off. This is a 2001 SE with manual transmission.
Symptoms:
1. Cold start requires a bit of gas pedal for 10-15 seconds, or it dies. After that it is good to go.
2. If I let it die, cold start will code 1320 and 505 (ignition and IAC)
3. Warm start, normal
4. Warm idle, normal
5. Warm start/idle/drive, NO CODES
6. Next cold start, problems...
What I have done:
1. Cleaned entire intake one piece at a time.
2. Changed spark plugs (old ones showed normal)
3. Checked connectors for above and the TPS.
4. Ran idle learn process. Which will kick on the codes even warm.
5. Replaced ECTS as suggested below.
6. Replaced PCV as suggested below.
7. Checked Crank position sensor, tested good.
8. Changed out all 6 coils with the new Hitachi ones.
9. Changed out IAC
It was actually two problems, the IAC and at least one coil was bad.
Thanks for all the assistance,
Tony
Symptoms:
1. Cold start requires a bit of gas pedal for 10-15 seconds, or it dies. After that it is good to go.
2. If I let it die, cold start will code 1320 and 505 (ignition and IAC)
3. Warm start, normal
4. Warm idle, normal
5. Warm start/idle/drive, NO CODES
6. Next cold start, problems...
What I have done:
1. Cleaned entire intake one piece at a time.
2. Changed spark plugs (old ones showed normal)
3. Checked connectors for above and the TPS.
4. Ran idle learn process. Which will kick on the codes even warm.
5. Replaced ECTS as suggested below.
6. Replaced PCV as suggested below.
7. Checked Crank position sensor, tested good.
8. Changed out all 6 coils with the new Hitachi ones.
9. Changed out IAC
It was actually two problems, the IAC and at least one coil was bad.
Thanks for all the assistance,
Tony
Last edited by Huli; 05-03-2014 at 02:46 PM.
#4
#6
How would I check the upper intake manifold? I looked for cracks and leaks already. Pushed a bunch of chemtool through the system as well.
#7
A smoke test should reveal any leaks. Probably any shop can do it. There are also instructional vids on youtube if you want to try it yourself.
In my case I didn't do the smoke test because I ruled out MAF, fuel pump/filter, vacuum leaks, iacv, throttle body, etc so I thought for sure it was the intake gasket. Took it to a shop to do the work and ended up being the pcv valve. So my recommendation is to change the pcv valve first since it's super cheap (like <$10). If that doesn't solve the issue, proceed with the smoke test.
Btw there are other threads with the same symptoms but different solutions. Some solved the issue by replacing the MAF or the intake gasket or the ecu and iacv, or some combination of these parts. When you have time try to sift through the the posts to gather more info on the issue and how to diagnose individual components. It's a problem that takes a lot of patience.
In my case I didn't do the smoke test because I ruled out MAF, fuel pump/filter, vacuum leaks, iacv, throttle body, etc so I thought for sure it was the intake gasket. Took it to a shop to do the work and ended up being the pcv valve. So my recommendation is to change the pcv valve first since it's super cheap (like <$10). If that doesn't solve the issue, proceed with the smoke test.
Btw there are other threads with the same symptoms but different solutions. Some solved the issue by replacing the MAF or the intake gasket or the ecu and iacv, or some combination of these parts. When you have time try to sift through the the posts to gather more info on the issue and how to diagnose individual components. It's a problem that takes a lot of patience.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-01-2014 at 04:14 PM.
#8
Updated first post with current progress (or lack there of)
I have gone through a ton of them so far... still sifting. I am going to do the IACV as soon as I get the crank position checked. The FSM has a very in depth process for checking the position sensor, and visually, it looks original, so worth the test.
I asked the shop here about a smoke test and he lit up a cigarette... so yea... going to try it myself... lol
Btw there are other threads with the same symptoms but different solutions. Some solved the issue by replacing the MAF or the intake gasket or the ecu and iacv, or some combination of these parts. When you have time try to sift through the the posts to gather more info on the issue and how to diagnose individual components. It's a problem that takes a lot of patience.
I asked the shop here about a smoke test and he lit up a cigarette... so yea... going to try it myself... lol
#9
Updated main post.
Sooooo, I think I got it. It seems that coils and IAC were bad. Replaced all coils and the IAC.
I am still getting the 505 code and the idle is pulsing up around 2000
I checked the IAC, all of the resistances are correct.
If I cover up the air-in port for the IAC, I idle smooth at about 625.
Plugged in or not, if that port is open, then the car pulses.
I have failed the idle learn about 5 times... just cant get it!!!
HELP! If you can talk me through it on the phone, send me a PM... I will give you my number. The car has become un-drivable and actually worse than before!! I have no ideas and am sure I missed somthing!!
Sooooo, I think I got it. It seems that coils and IAC were bad. Replaced all coils and the IAC.
I am still getting the 505 code and the idle is pulsing up around 2000
I checked the IAC, all of the resistances are correct.
If I cover up the air-in port for the IAC, I idle smooth at about 625.
Plugged in or not, if that port is open, then the car pulses.
I have failed the idle learn about 5 times... just cant get it!!!
HELP! If you can talk me through it on the phone, send me a PM... I will give you my number. The car has become un-drivable and actually worse than before!! I have no ideas and am sure I missed somthing!!
Last edited by Huli; 05-03-2014 at 05:10 PM.
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