bobozmc

Recently my front passenger wheel has been making a grinding sound when driving and becomes worse when I'm making a turn or in a curve, So could it be the wheel bearings are worn out or what could be the problem??? and about how much does it cost to fix it, thank you guys!

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

Very well could be the wheel bearing. Could be brakes or axles as well, but wheel bearing is far more likely.

As for cost to repair, depends on where you get the part. You can order a Timken unit off of rockauto for a reasonable price. If you just get the bearing it will have to be pressed onto the hub, but if you get the hub assembly, it will include the bearing and can be done yourself if you're pretty handy.

I'd have to check the book to see what labor hours would be for a shop to do it, but it's likely to be in the neighborhood of 1 hour per corner, so give or take about $90 labor, plus about $30 to press the new bearing if you go that route.

sanford7575

I've had to do this for both my '97 i30 and '97 max.
Buy the parts off of Rock auto for around $70, then have a machine shop remove old and press in new for $100.

Does Timken now offer a complete assembled wheel bearing / hub unit for the '02? I was under the impression that no one offered a complete assembled unit.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

You are right. They offer the whole assembly but as a package of separate pieces. In which case the bearing would still have to be pressed onto the hub. It's fairly reasonable at, near as makes no difference, $80, but the bearing alone is only $30 from them. They do appear to offer an assembled rear hub assembly though.

kbohip

It looks like both of my front bearings might be out. The strange thing is though, I'm not hearing any of the telltale roar when I'm driving. I jacked up the car tonight though and when pushing/pulling the wheel at 12/6 position I got a lot of play on the pass. side, and less play but still plenty on the driver's. I've never had a wheel bearing or ball joint go out on me yet, so I'm not 100% sure it's the bearing. I can say that while applying pressure on the wheel, the ball joint feels solid while the area around the ABS ring is noticeably moving. I also noticed that I can see the brake rotor moving back and forth as well.

If it is the bearings I'm probably going to buy a 12 ton shop press from China Fright Tools for less than $100 after coupon. I figure it will come in handy in the future and instead of just paying that to a machine shop, I'll have something to show for it. I'll end up using it to press out my old motor mounts, maybe even press out the rear control arm bushings.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Mine never made any roaring or grinding noises until there was no bearing left and it had welded the remnants and snap rings to the hub and spindle. It just popped like an axle when turning

kbohip

Out of curiosity I called a couple of shops and the dealer to see how much they would charge for this job. Local shops both wanted around $500 per side if I needed a new hub assembly as well, the dealer wanted $620 per side!!! Yeah, I'll be doing this myself.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I would go to the junkyard and grab a whole knuckle. Hell, grab the control arm, too, so you don't have to deal with the pos castle nut being rusted on lol. It will take only minutes to swap and save tons of money.

kbohip

No rust on anything. I replaced my thermostat tonight (FINALLY went back to the superior stock one) and even the infamous alt/A/C belt tensioner bolt is in mint condition. The sticker is still on it from the factory even. One good thing about Colorado is they don't use much salt and the winters are dry here.