Light, so I've just left advance auto after using their scan tool, and I bought a quart of oil and sea foam, but have never used it. Anyway, I left with these codes in my head and I want to know if an 03 6 speed with 160k miles is work the money to fix, if it costs much. Here are the codes

P0300
Random-multiple misfire
(Maybe why my car car hesitates when I tried to accelerate fast?)

P0455
Evap emission system leak (gross)
I'm thinking the canister on the rear driver side of the gas tank is the problem?

P1448
Vent control valve

Don't know what kind of problems the vent control valve would cause, sounds like the cheapest fix of the three so I may tackle that one first. Any insight on these would be great!

 

Focus on the misfire first.

Get the coil(s) fixed and go from there. The other codes may go away after you fix the misfire.

And yes, your car will hesitate and lose power when misfiring, you can feel it.

Your car doesn't seem to have any major issues or problems from those codes, perfectly fine for that car with that mileage. It's real cheap to fix all those things on your list, if you do it yourself.

 

The last two codes pertain to the system that purges gas vapours from your tank. can be tricky to find the exact problem but it won't cause performance problems with the car. Search those codes. There are a billion threads related to them. the first code is the interesting one. One or multiple of your plugs are misfiring. likely either a coil pack(s) or plug(s). Have you ever changed either? Lots to find by searching this code also.

 

D. Stillwell, yes I do plan on doing all the work myself, I'm very picky on who I let touch my car no matter the condition its in. That only happens when I have an issue I've never done before. And yes these are about the only issues I'm having right now, and the hesitation is very noticeable, feels like an automatic down shifting when accelerating quickly.

Ateick, I have done the spark plugs but that was about a year and a half ago at least, I don't really remember exactly, and changed the upper intake manifold gasket. As for the coil packs, I've never changed them. Is there a specific process to tell exactly which of the 6 is or are the problems? My uncle has the huge, very expensive scan tool from snap on that can communicate with the vehicle on a better level than the advance auto scan tool. Maybe I should use that and see if it helps

 

Another question is where should I get the packs from? I like to buy the best brands, going cheap with this car is a bad idea, I've learned the hard way lol

 

Log on to rockauto.com and get the Hitachi brand. That is what Nissan used.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,7060

 

What are they like universal coils?

 

Is there a specific procedure on pointing out which coils need replacing? I was hoping to do only one or two

 

Alright I just finished putting in 6 brand new coils and spark plugs. Car has absolutely no hesitation anymore which is great but the SES light is still on, should I reset it and go? Or should it turn off on its own? I also filled the tank because it usually turns off when I do, figured that would take care of the Evap codes I have as well.

 

If you can reset the check engine light, go ahead and do it. If you don't reset the light yourself, it will go off by itself in a few days. It takes a certain amount of "driving cycles" as Nissan puts it, starts, stops, high speed driving, low speed driving, etc. Unless you know and follow the Nissan specs for this, my statement of a few days is the best I can do.

Ask around, maybe one of your buddies has an OBD reader that can reset the code. Auto parts stores will read the codes for you, but they are not supposed to reset them. But maybe you could sweet talk them into doing it.

 

maf is common

Also go get the code read

 

Okay, I got the codes Reset a couple days back after installing 6 new coils and plugs, and my check engine light turned on again yesterday. I still have the other 2 codes though and was just wondering what I could do to tackle those

 

So the Evap codes came back? Im guessing the misfire is gone, right? Thats the most important thing..

The evap stuff is no big deal...matter of fact you can drive like that forever, the evap doesn't affect much.

Usually with evap system, the charcoal canister itself goes bad. There are ways to check the whole system and I can link you to that info if you want...it can be a PITA to track down tho

My suggestion is get another canister from a junkyard (not a very popular part) and just swap the whole piece, it should take you like 10min to swap and cost very little.

 

When you get the evap charcoal canister, make sure you get the solenoid valve that is bolted on to it. That is the EVAP canister vent control valve and that valve is causing your P1448 code.

 

Good point Dennis. ^^

The solenoid is bolted to the frame, right behind the canister if you look all the way up.

 

OP just a side note for you once you have replaced the evap. charcoal canister, and the vent control valve to avoid getting these codes again when you fill up with your favorite fuel do not over fill your tank when it clicks stop as being full don't try to round up to the next dollar causing fuel to back wash at the top of the fuel tank ... this is the common error made which allows the excess fuel to go down the small overflow hole and corrupt your charcoal canister

 

Thanks for the pointers guys, really appreciate it. Yea the misfire code is gone, the only reason I need the Evap codes gone is because I live in NY and we have to get our cars inspected, and it won't pass inspection with an SES light on. I was wondering if an Evap canister from an 00-01 would work with the 02-03? Only reason is I can't find any 02-03 maximas in the junkyard I go to, or how about an I35? I know there's one of those in the yard

 

^^ Any 2000-2003 Maxima will work, same for I30/I35 of those years. Plus the 04' I35 still had the same one, too.

 

Thanks that helps, this is off topic but what about a window motor? Lol the line in mine snapped