I have a VQ30DE-K and I'm taking it apart. I have been stumped at one bolt. its the crankshaft bolt. it wont come off. I've tried using an air gun, hasn't worked . sprayed 10lbs of Pb blaster, didn't work . I put a couple of bolts in the flywheel and put a bar in the middle and used a breaker bar, didn't work (I actually bent the bolts on the other side ).

I am wondering if there is any easy ways to get the bolt off that i just haven't learned yet.

can I start pulling the cams and heads, pistons and everything then try attacking the bolt again? or do I need to have the crankshaft bolt off first before anything?

i am replacing the crankshaft, so if any of your tips/ tricks mean damaging it, please share, i just need to start this build!

Thanks

 

Can you post a pic? I can't picture the exact placement of the bolt but I'm very handy with drilling, cutting and using other techniques for removing stuck fasteners.

 

If you are referring to the crankshaft pulley bolt, many people have put a long breaker bar on the bolt and "bumped" the starter to break it free. But it kinda sounds like you may have the engine tore down part way.

 

Thread title revised to something with meaning.

 

You have to soak it overnight, then it should zip off instantly (it's stuck to the pulley and not in the crank snout b/c that thing is oiled up in there).
I've done this multiple times.

The other method to break it free if auto is to jam a big *** crow bar in the flywheel teeth (have someone hold it), then kick the **** out of a breaker bar. I have done this successfully when I couldn't soak it.

 

and can i start pulling the heads off if that bolt is still in there of no?

 

remove the belts and try heating it with mapp gas ...it may or may not work

 

If you have a 3/8'' 50' or longer hose with a regulator and standard connectors
I guarantee u that air impact isn't seeing it's recommended pressure. Basically better off with a wrench.

 

This probably sounds really dumb but I put a breaker bar on it so it reached the floor, or mabye it was the control arm, I don't remember, but then I cranked it for a click and that broke it free.
....then I bought a compressor.

not me but there's a bunch of vids.

 

Bumping it with the starter is a good method, but it doesn't seem to work if an impact wrench can't get it off.

Except the guy in the vid is a moron. Why do people jack up cars with the oil pan?!

 

Maybe.
But I'm thinking his air setup might not be good.
An air impact should take that bolt out for sure.

Why I say this is because my 30gal kobalt was putting out
70psi after the regulator (tank at 150psi) and this is with gun directly on the regulator not including a 50' hose.
Not even what the gun is rated to run at.

I junked that P.O.S regulator for a 3/8'' ball valve and it was really close to what the tank had. Plus a 50' 3/8'' hose takes off 20psi. You can youtube that I don't remember exactly.

Anyway what I'm saying is if you have a 3/8'' hose TAKE THE REGULATOR OFF because that's the only way to get the gun to run closer to 90psi. Go to harbor freight for the valve, they're cheap.
Get the 25' at most 35' hose if it's a 30gal portable.
50' is like from the garage to the middle of the street. Why so long??

I got my stuff running super strong with milton V hiflow couplers it's like the bigger sized hose
Yeah it's a tangent but I hope this helps somebody. :P


Here, take a look at this tiny hole!
hiflow vs standard.

 

A 500 ft/lb one should get it off, but I couldn't get one off with a 300 electric.