how hard would it be to remove intake plenum and lower intake manifold?
how hard would it be to remove intake plenum and lower intake manifold?
I have to replace the freeze plug thats on the back of the front head, and the intake plenum and lower intake manifold off in order to access the plug. How does doing this compare to changing the waterpump? I was easily able to change the waterpump.
Easier than the pump, but still time consuming as the 3.0 has lots of crap on top. Not even a 10 min job on 3.5 lol
Yup, very easy, semi time consuming but straightforward as you ca get. Get an NWP spacer kit while you're at it and spark plugs, but if not, order some new gaskets for sure. Also check on that rear VC.
Thanks for the answers! Im diving into the job this weekend, whats an nwp spacer? Is it really needed to replace lower intake manifold gasket?
Cool, i have nothing but time on my hands this weekend. Auto parts dont seem to carry the exact freeze plug for the max, but a guy at the store said that they're not vehicle specific, as long as the plug the same size it will pop in, he reccomended a rubber plug. Any thoughts on this?
http://nwpengineering.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html#VQ30DEK
not necessary but makes the car more special. just something to so while you're down there
not necessary but makes the car more special. just something to so while you're down there
Oh damn, just saw OP had DEK. Yeah same sorta process. Takes a bit longer from what I remember on my 4G. Still very straightforward. Never mind the rear VC and spark plugs as this engine had no VC issues, and the spark plugs can be done with everything still on.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Oh damn, just saw OP had DEK. Yeah same sorta process. Takes a bit longer from what I remember on my 4G. Still very straightforward. Never mind the rear VC and spark plugs as this engine had no VC issues, and the spark plugs can be done with everything still on.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Oh damn, just saw OP had DEK. Yeah same sorta process. Takes a bit longer from what I remember on my 4G. Still very straightforward. Never mind the rear VC and spark plugs as this engine had no VC issues, and the spark plugs can be done with everything still on.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
At this age it would be wise to replace the VC gasket (I just RTV it all
**** spending money). Otherwise, he'll have to remove it all, again, if it's not already leaking.You can tell what shape the plugs are in by looking at the tip. It gets worn down with use (compare it to a new plug).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Mar 2, 2016 at 11:04 AM.
Cool, i have nothing but time on my hands this weekend. Auto parts dont seem to carry the exact freeze plug for the max, but a guy at the store said that they're not vehicle specific, as long as the plug the same size it will pop in, he reccomended a rubber plug. Any thoughts on this?
You don't need a new lower IM gasket unless it's damaged somehow.
The upper is fine to reuse as long as it's not flattened.
Easy peasy! Just take pics of the vacuum hoses as they can be easily confused, (just take loads of pics and post them on the wdydtymt thread
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)
I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)
Last edited by nestorlugo; Mar 2, 2016 at 03:18 PM.
Easy peasy! Just take pics of the vacuum hoses as they can be easily confused, (just take loads of pics and post them on the wdydtymt thread
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)
I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)

Im not doing anything to the gaskets themselves, I have to removed the plenum and lower intake in order to get to a freeze plug that popped out of the front head. I thinks that's the only way to get to the plug, I found a picture online of the exact freeze plug location. A guy made a thread on this topic a while ago, go to google and type in '2000 maxima cylinder head freeze plug'. You will see the pic with the red circle around the plug area, let me know what you all think.
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2
Last edited by nestorlugo; Mar 3, 2016 at 02:58 PM.
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time

If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time

Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2

If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2

The bank 1 freeze plug is on the passenger side of the motor right? i believe thats the one thata leaking!
lol i know right, but unfortunally thats the one that popped out! The guy in the thread said he had to remove the intake plenum and lower intake to get to it. I was hoping you can give me some insight, i pray i can do this without pulling the cover. I wanna know exactly whata in store before i get started.
lol i know right, but unfortunally thats the one that popped out! The guy in the thread said he had to remove the intake plenum and lower intake to get to it. I was hoping you can give me some insight, i pray i can do this without pulling the cover. I wanna know exactly whata in store before i get started.
Before you go pulling a freeze plug. I may have asked this before but: did you run the car with only water in the cooling system? If you did first off why? Second did it get cold when you did this? I'm talking 30 and below for a significant amount of time without using the car? The reason for plugs is so if for some unknown reason you only have water in the cooling system and it gets cold the plug will pop instead of your block. In order for that to happen it would need to sit overnight at least but also have almost all water and be at a temp of 30 or lower. So before you do this double check the thermostat if recently replaced is sealed properly. Also you say the water pump was just done. Did you or the installer use an oem pump? Do you know for certain it was done right? New seals were properly installed with pump? If all of these questions check out to be proper then look at plug. Reason I could see it not being plug is more often then not all freeze plugs pop just not one. Not saying it doesn't happen.
He did all the work.
I can't believe the motor even runs normal b/c you know that thing was froze pretty solid.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Mar 3, 2016 at 05:32 PM.
He unknowingly bought it full of water and changed the pump (vanes were sheared off lol) after it was dumping coolant. He was driving it deep into winter for chicagoland, iirc O_O He did all the work. I can't believe the motor even runs normal b/c you know that thing was froze pretty solid.
I know you've changed your pump successfully. Is there a way to screw it up to have this problem? Or could it be as simple as not enough permatex? Or no permatex?
Ohh wow that's why you check the important stuff before you buy. Something still doesn't seem right. Obviously the previous owner knew he had it full with water. So I would bet he did that for a reason. Weather his reason is the proper reasoning is obviously no but I wonder why. I'm also still not convinced that the plug popped.
I know you've changed your pump successfully. Is there a way to screw it up to have this problem? Or could it be as simple as not enough permatex? Or no permatex?
I know you've changed your pump successfully. Is there a way to screw it up to have this problem? Or could it be as simple as not enough permatex? Or no permatex?
I've never paid attention to the plug locations, so idk.
He did it right. You can't screw it up and it work, really (O rings holds the coolant, RTV holds the oil). He said it was basically leaking as fast as he poured in the coolant before and after pump replacement. He never found a big *** crack, so that pretty much leaves a freeze plug.
I've never paid attention to the plug locations, so idk.
I've never paid attention to the plug locations, so idk.
No I've heard of freeze plugs popping it's just unusual for just one to pop. Most of the time they all pop together. What happens is the water ices inside expands which pops plugs. It's just weird that only one popped. From what you're saying the coolant you put in comes out as fast as you put it in that seems right in line with plug pop. I guess if everything checks out you'll have to replace it. Getting to it will be the hard part. If you have the ability to change the pump I'm sure the plug shouldn't be a problem. Getting to it is just a matter of removing what's it the way. Just chalk it up as a lessoned learned.
One more thing download the fsm. I'm sure you can find the exact location of the plug and even what needs too be removed in order to get to it. I forget who but someone has it in their sig where it can be downloaded.
No I've heard of freeze plugs popping it's just unusual for just one to pop. Most of the time they all pop together. What happens is the water ices inside expands which pops plugs. It's just weird that only one popped. From what you're saying the coolant you put in comes out as fast as you put it in that seems right in line with plug pop. I guess if everything checks out you'll have to replace it. Getting to it will be the hard part. If you have the ability to change the pump I'm sure the plug shouldn't be a problem. Getting to it is just a matter of removing what's it the way. Just chalk it up as a lessoned learned.
I WAS able to feel the plug in the small opening between the head and tc, so yup in theory you will be able to access it from there.
BUT!
the space in there is just too small to get it out (imo) ,unless it came completely off than I can see you having the time of your life trying to reach in there with something out of a star wars ship to pull it off!
However if you can get it off this way ,I believe you can get enough leverage to squeeze a new one on there too!
Just for kicks I poured a little water on top there and it drained really fast between the head and the thermostat housing, I guess that's where your coolant rushes out of,so you in the right track for sure
BUT!

the space in there is just too small to get it out (imo) ,unless it came completely off than I can see you having the time of your life trying to reach in there with something out of a star wars ship to pull it off!
However if you can get it off this way ,I believe you can get enough leverage to squeeze a new one on there too!
Just for kicks I poured a little water on top there and it drained really fast between the head and the thermostat housing, I guess that's where your coolant rushes out of,so you in the right track for sure




