how hard would it be to remove intake plenum and lower intake manifold?
SubscribeI have to replace the freeze plug thats on the back of the front head, and the intake plenum and lower intake manifold off in order to access the plug. How does doing this compare to changing the waterpump? I was easily able to change the waterpump.
Quote:
Easier than the pump, but still time consuming as the 3.0 has lots of crap on top. Not even a 10 min job on 3.5 lolOriginally Posted by Roblee
I have to replace the freeze plug thats on the back of the front head, and the intake plenum and lower intake manifold off in order to access the plug. How does doing this compare to changing the waterpump? I was easily able to change the waterpump.
Yup, very easy, semi time consuming but straightforward as you ca get. Get an NWP spacer kit while you're at it and spark plugs, but if not, order some new gaskets for sure. Also check on that rear VC.
Quote:
Thanks for the answers! Im diving into the job this weekend, whats an nwp spacer? Is it really needed to replace lower intake manifold gasket?Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Yup, very easy, semi time consuming but straightforward as you ca get. Get an NWP spacer kit while you're at it and spark plugs, but if not, order some new gaskets for sure. Also check on that rear VC.
Quote:
Cool, i have nothing but time on my hands this weekend. Auto parts dont seem to carry the exact freeze plug for the max, but a guy at the store said that they're not vehicle specific, as long as the plug the same size it will pop in, he reccomended a rubber plug. Any thoughts on this?Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Easier than the pump, but still time consuming as the 3.0 has lots of crap on top. Not even a 10 min job on 3.5 lol
Senior Member
http://nwpengineering.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html#VQ30DEK
not necessary but makes the car more special. just something to so while you're down there
not necessary but makes the car more special. just something to so while you're down there
Oh damn, just saw OP had DEK. Yeah same sorta process. Takes a bit longer from what I remember on my 4G. Still very straightforward. Never mind the rear VC and spark plugs as this engine had no VC issues, and the spark plugs can be done with everything still on.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Senior Member
Quote:
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
probably not a terrible idea to check vc gaskets still. after 15 years mine had a minor leak so i put new gaskets on not too long ago. just another thing it might make sense to do while the manifold is off anyways.Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Oh damn, just saw OP had DEK. Yeah same sorta process. Takes a bit longer from what I remember on my 4G. Still very straightforward. Never mind the rear VC and spark plugs as this engine had no VC issues, and the spark plugs can be done with everything still on.Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Quote:
Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
Not entirely Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Oh damn, just saw OP had DEK. Yeah same sorta process. Takes a bit longer from what I remember on my 4G. Still very straightforward. Never mind the rear VC and spark plugs as this engine had no VC issues, and the spark plugs can be done with everything still on.Also, NWP spacers would be more beneficial on the 3.5L, so once again, pretty much disregard my post.
At this age it would be wise to replace the VC gasket (I just RTV it all
**** spending money). Otherwise, he'll have to remove it all, again, if it's not already leaking.You can tell what shape the plugs are in by looking at the tip. It gets worn down with use (compare it to a new plug).
Quote:
No idea about freeze plugs. I would stick with metal, but that's just me.Originally Posted by Roblee
Cool, i have nothing but time on my hands this weekend. Auto parts dont seem to carry the exact freeze plug for the max, but a guy at the store said that they're not vehicle specific, as long as the plug the same size it will pop in, he reccomended a rubber plug. Any thoughts on this?
You don't need a new lower IM gasket unless it's damaged somehow.
The upper is fine to reuse as long as it's not flattened.
Senior Member
Easy peasy! Just take pics of the vacuum hoses as they can be easily confused, (just take loads of pics and post them on the wdydtymt thread
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)
I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)

Quote:
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)
I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)
Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Easy peasy! Just take pics of the vacuum hoses as they can be easily confused, (just take loads of pics and post them on the wdydtymt thread
) download the fsm for nice illustrations and torque specs ( not that you need them)I agree with the guys ! Do the valve cover gaskets while you at it, I'll also agree on doing the plugs (ngk coppers are like $3ea)
Why do you wanna do the lower intake manifold (lim) gaskets? They usually never fail!
You might be referring to the upper im gasket(uim)
Im not doing anything to the gaskets themselves, I have to removed the plenum and lower intake in order to get to a freeze plug that popped out of the front head. I thinks that's the only way to get to the plug, I found a picture online of the exact freeze plug location. A guy made a thread on this topic a while ago, go to google and type in '2000 maxima cylinder head freeze plug'. You will see the pic with the red circle around the plug area, let me know what you all think.
Senior Member
I found the thread, but I couldn't see the image very well but now i know the general location.
I got my old 3.0 on the engine stand I'll let you know tomorrow if that's how you get to it
I got my old 3.0 on the engine stand I'll let you know tomorrow if that's how you get to it
Quote:
I got my old 3.0 on the engine stand I'll let you know tomorrow if that's how you get to it
That would be a BIG help, please get back to me on that. Thanks alot!Originally Posted by nestorlugo
I found the thread, but I couldn't see the image very well but now i know the general location.I got my old 3.0 on the engine stand I'll let you know tomorrow if that's how you get to it
Senior Member
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2

If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2

Quote:
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Thanks for info, but its leaking on passenger side of engine near the altnernator and ac compressor. The guy in the old thread said its right by the thermostat housing which is on the passenger side of the motor. Could see if the freeze plug is in that area on your motor?Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Quote:
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Great i just saw ur pic after i posted!!! That looks like that should be it!!! Thats the vq30 right?Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Quote:
If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2
Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Ok so I don't think either or have to come off and all you need to remove is the air box and you get a good look at them!If you're referring to the fp cyl head bank2(closest to the radiator) it can be accessed at a weird angle, but taking off the water inlet tube is probably necessary...
However if you need to replace bank1 fp you get a clear path,you might have to take off the tb (throttle body) idk the engine on my car didn't have it on at the time
Bank1

Bank2
The bank 1 freeze plug is on the passenger side of the motor right? i believe thats the one thata leaking!
Quote:
Its not the pump, that was just changed and it still was leaking very bad, could you check to see if one is on the passenger side of the engine near the waterpump area or close by?Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Both of these are on the other side ,
Senior Member
The think the only things up front that could leak are weep hole and the drain bolt,
Unfortunately I won't get back to the car till Sunday..
Unfortunately I won't get back to the car till Sunday..
Quote:
Yes is a 3.0
Im pretty much sure its an freeze plug in the area, please let me know, thanks. Not trying to be a pest lol.Originally Posted by nestorlugo
This is on the opposite side of the engine tho' , I didn't look up front...Yes is a 3.0
Quote:
Unfortunately I won't get back to the car till Sunday..
Originally Posted by nestorlugo
The think the only things up front that could leak are weep hole and the drain bolt,Unfortunately I won't get back to the car till Sunday..
Kind of hard to see but i think thats the front passenger side of the motor.
Quote:
Damn you better hope is not that one...
lol i know right, but unfortunally thats the one that popped out! The guy in the thread said he had to remove the intake plenum and lower intake to get to it. I was hoping you can give me some insight, i pray i can do this without pulling the cover. I wanna know exactly whata in store before i get started.Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Yes it is but that's with the timing covers off! Damn you better hope is not that one...
Senior Member
Quote:
Before you go pulling a freeze plug. I may have asked this before but: did you run the car with only water in the cooling system? If you did first off why? Second did it get cold when you did this? I'm talking 30 and below for a significant amount of time without using the car? The reason for plugs is so if for some unknown reason you only have water in the cooling system and it gets cold the plug will pop instead of your block. In order for that to happen it would need to sit overnight at least but also have almost all water and be at a temp of 30 or lower. So before you do this double check the thermostat if recently replaced is sealed properly. Also you say the water pump was just done. Did you or the installer use an oem pump? Do you know for certain it was done right? New seals were properly installed with pump? If all of these questions check out to be proper then look at plug. Reason I could see it not being plug is more often then not all freeze plugs pop just not one. Not saying it doesn't happen.Originally Posted by Roblee
lol i know right, but unfortunally thats the one that popped out! The guy in the thread said he had to remove the intake plenum and lower intake to get to it. I was hoping you can give me some insight, i pray i can do this without pulling the cover. I wanna know exactly whata in store before i get started.
Quote:
He unknowingly bought it full of water and changed the pump (vanes were sheared off lol) after it was dumping coolant. He was driving it deep into winter for chicagoland, iirc O_OOriginally Posted by Mattx
Before you go pulling a freeze plug. I may have asked this before but: did you run the car with only water in the cooling system? If you did first off why? Second did it get cold when you did this? I'm talking 30 and below for a significant amount of time without using the car? The reason for plugs is so if for some unknown reason you only have water in the cooling system and it gets cold the plug will pop instead of your block. In order for that to happen it would need to sit overnight at least but also have almost all water and be at a temp of 30 or lower. So before you do this double check the thermostat if recently replaced is sealed properly. Also you say the water pump was just done. Did you or the installer use an oem pump? Do you know for certain it was done right? New seals were properly installed with pump? If all of these questions check out to be proper then look at plug. Reason I could see it not being plug is more often then not all freeze plugs pop just not one. Not saying it doesn't happen.
He did all the work.
I can't believe the motor even runs normal b/c you know that thing was froze pretty solid.
Senior Member
Quote:
Ohh wow that's why you check the important stuff before you buy. Something still doesn't seem right. Obviously the previous owner knew he had it full with water. So I would bet he did that for a reason. Weather his reason is the proper reasoning is obviously no but I wonder why. I'm also still not convinced that the plug popped. Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
He unknowingly bought it full of water and changed the pump (vanes were sheared off lol) after it was dumping coolant. He was driving it deep into winter for chicagoland, iirc O_O He did all the work. I can't believe the motor even runs normal b/c you know that thing was froze pretty solid.
I know you've changed your pump successfully. Is there a way to screw it up to have this problem? Or could it be as simple as not enough permatex? Or no permatex?
Quote:
I know you've changed your pump successfully. Is there a way to screw it up to have this problem? Or could it be as simple as not enough permatex? Or no permatex?
He did it right. You can't screw it up and it work, really (O rings holds the coolant, RTV holds the oil). He said it was basically leaking as fast as he poured in the coolant before and after pump replacement. He never found a big *** crack, so that pretty much leaves a freeze plug.Originally Posted by Mattx
Ohh wow that's why you check the important stuff before you buy. Something still doesn't seem right. Obviously the previous owner knew he had it full with water. So I would bet he did that for a reason. Weather his reason is the proper reasoning is obviously no but I wonder why. I'm also still not convinced that the plug popped. I know you've changed your pump successfully. Is there a way to screw it up to have this problem? Or could it be as simple as not enough permatex? Or no permatex?
I've never paid attention to the plug locations, so idk.
Quote:
I've never paid attention to the plug locations, so idk.
yes i took extra precaution that i did the waterpump install correct. I didnt know pre.owner used water til after. Its a freeze plug in the very location i assumed it was at, its actually pretty close to the thermostat area. We assumed the freeze plug popped from the get go. But i didnt think it was a plug in that area until i did lots of research and saw the exact locations. Most people who own maximas are not silly enough to run water in the winter, which is why you probaly never heard of a freeze plug issue before lol. At this point im betting its more than likely that freeze plug. If not, its probaly a cracked block. But i will check the t stat before i preceed to the next step. He basically gave me the car. Any more advice is appreciated, thanks all.Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
He did it right. You can't screw it up and it work, really (O rings holds the coolant, RTV holds the oil). He said it was basically leaking as fast as he poured in the coolant before and after pump replacement. He never found a big *** crack, so that pretty much leaves a freeze plug.I've never paid attention to the plug locations, so idk.
Senior Member
No I've heard of freeze plugs popping it's just unusual for just one to pop. Most of the time they all pop together. What happens is the water ices inside expands which pops plugs. It's just weird that only one popped. From what you're saying the coolant you put in comes out as fast as you put it in that seems right in line with plug pop. I guess if everything checks out you'll have to replace it. Getting to it will be the hard part. If you have the ability to change the pump I'm sure the plug shouldn't be a problem. Getting to it is just a matter of removing what's it the way. Just chalk it up as a lessoned learned.
Senior Member
One more thing download the fsm. I'm sure you can find the exact location of the plug and even what needs too be removed in order to get to it. I forget who but someone has it in their sig where it can be downloaded.
Quote:
I agree, but i would never use water in the winter or at all. I have heard its possible for just one to pop. Besides this coolant loss, car runs like a million bucks. I pray the block aint cracked.Originally Posted by Mattx
No I've heard of freeze plugs popping it's just unusual for just one to pop. Most of the time they all pop together. What happens is the water ices inside expands which pops plugs. It's just weird that only one popped. From what you're saying the coolant you put in comes out as fast as you put it in that seems right in line with plug pop. I guess if everything checks out you'll have to replace it. Getting to it will be the hard part. If you have the ability to change the pump I'm sure the plug shouldn't be a problem. Getting to it is just a matter of removing what's it the way. Just chalk it up as a lessoned learned.
Quote:
Thanks a lot, please get back to me on that, Im waiting to hear back from you before I start.Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Ok I gotcha, both the uim and lim are off on the engine that's on the stand, when I go over I'll look !Senior Member
I WAS able to feel the plug in the small opening between the head and tc, so yup in theory you will be able to access it from there.
BUT!
the space in there is just too small to get it out (imo) ,unless it came completely off than I can see you having the time of your life trying to reach in there with something out of a star wars ship to pull it off!
However if you can get it off this way ,I believe you can get enough leverage to squeeze a new one on there too!
Just for kicks I poured a little water on top there and it drained really fast between the head and the thermostat housing, I guess that's where your coolant rushes out of,so you in the right track for sure
BUT!

the space in there is just too small to get it out (imo) ,unless it came completely off than I can see you having the time of your life trying to reach in there with something out of a star wars ship to pull it off!
However if you can get it off this way ,I believe you can get enough leverage to squeeze a new one on there too!
Just for kicks I poured a little water on top there and it drained really fast between the head and the thermostat housing, I guess that's where your coolant rushes out of,so you in the right track for sure



