QueensMAX

was driving my 01 on the highway and the ECU literately went up in smoke (along with a melted cylinder 1 ignition coil)! Thick nasty smelling smoke started oozing out. IACV Tested out good. Computer was replaced and re-keyed and the same thing happened again on the highway (ignition coil again too)... The culprit..bad Evap canister solenoid (also 15A ELEC Parts fuse melted, not blown). One more thing to worry about on these cars.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

More proof that emissions is evil.

maxiiiboy

Very interesting - thanks for posting and sharing your experience!

To me, this is another proof that Nissan engineers have done an extremely poor job of protecting the the ECU/other from failures of the various actuators.
Not sure why your #1 coil melted but I haven't looked at this in much detail yet.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

It will last 150-250k easily, so what do they care? People that buy new cars have already purchased several in the last 15 years.

GM killed well over 100 people to save 90 cents/unit (and waited for bankruptcy, so they can't be sued or imprisoned). This is a typical design choice from all of them.

vqmaxman

As nice as these cars are thats the last thing you expect from Nissan is not to care for there customers. Good thing car did not catch on fire that is a scary thing,but good thing your ok.

cdoublejj

is there any way to delete the emissions? If yes is it possible to keep the gas tank evap plumed to the fuel system? (so the fumes from the tank get recirculated to the fuel system for use)

maxiiiboy

Well, that's what they have done. However, to control the "pluming" into the fuel system they have used an e-valve, and it looks like the e-valve has shorted, taking ECU with it. If you eliminate the valve, the pluming would be uncontrolled resulting in driveability problems.

The only solution is better fusing. The 15A fuse (#20) used by Nissan will not protect the driving transistor which probably can take 6A at most; more likely, only 3A or so. Unfortunately, you just can't use a smaller fuse because there are too many other things on it.

Montego Murph

iTrader: (1)

A while back there was a forum member who went through and soldered fuses into his ECM. He's long-gone from here but I PDF'ed our emails and messages. I should post them all here, maybe we could re-create his project to take away some worries.

cdoublejj

I wonder if it's possible to replace this fuse with a smart fuse or higher quality fuse. Like a something that break connection when it gets hot, (since it didn't' blow like it should have) to bad 13.5A or 14A can't be used.

hhhmmm

maxiiiboy

The fuse blew out all right, the only thing we can argue about is the manner in which it exactly blew up ...... (slow torture vs. sudden blow).

Replacing the fuse will not help - there are simply too many things on it: EC-COOLF, SC-START, EL-ESCD, EC-PGC/V, EC-VENT/V, EC-SWL/V, EC-BYPS/V, EC-VIAS/V, EL-NATS (this is directly from 2k FSM, pg. EL-16).

However, one could perhaps provide an additional fuse. From the diagram on p. EL-16: The power connection forks as it leaves the 15A fuse. The latter six subsystems (from EC-PGC/V to EL-NATS) are supplied via the second fork (R/Y wire). One could insert a fuse right at this exit point; this would require one splice and the use of a fuse adapter such as this one: http://www.delcity.net/store/Mini-Lo...apter/p_810069 .

This still leaves one question open: Will a single 3A fuse (or 4A or 5A, or ... ?) be sufficient to power all six subsystems, while protecting against the failure of the EVAP valve?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Why not just splice the fuse in at the evap valve? A little inline fuse and you're done.

QueensMAX

The computers were far beyond repair..It was burnt soo bad...I opened it and for chips were charred and ashy..the circuits also were gone..

cdoublejj

Of course, i think was suggestion as more of a preventative measure.

You crazy whackos and your "logic" but, seriously how dare you suggest such a good idea.

maxiiiboy

Yes, that's the ideal solution.
It has only one drawback: How do you check and/or replace the fuse?
And let's admit that we should expect to be replacing the fuse 2, 3, or more times as we try to find the right fuse value. So, we want a fuse that's logically in-line, but physically located somewhere convenient (like the fuse box). As you said, splicing it in at the Evap valve connector (that's where it would have to be) and then routing two new wires to "somewhere convenient" would fit the bill perfectly.

BTW, that's the solution I have arrived to for the IACV. I have not implemented it yet - I am just too hesitant to start messing with the harness.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

That little valve cannot suck much juice. I mean, a 3 amp fuse will deliver 42 watts (say 14v). I think even 3 is overkill. There's plenty of room to reach that location. You can use the little cylinder style or get an inline that uses the standard or mini auto fuse.