Hi all! My names Fabian. So I've desired a Max ever since my younger years so I finally got one. No major problems until about 3 months ago when the car started having rough idle at low rpms. I casually ignored it, until on a 105 degree day here in NC, when the car stalled out. I turned the key and it fired right back up. As time passed the abnormal low idle got worse and stalling become more frequent. Fellow car enthusiasts suggested that the cat might have been clogged (due to the flashing CEL light), and an old fashioned way to give me more time (to come up with the 300$ that the shop quoted me) was to find a long stretch of road and floor it. Did that and things got better for a bit. Also found out, after doing some research, that Maximas are known to need a idle relearn occasionally. That put a band aid on the problem. Stalling still occurred, but less frequently. But i began to notice a trend. 1) the car only stalled when the rpms got too low (400-600) 2) the rpms only got low after the car warmed up

One random day (after doing the idle relearn, normally check engine light dissapears) I decided to take the car to auto zone where they checked the codes and the MAF came up. I drove the car back home where it stalled out in the driveway. Bought some MAF cleaner before i took the plunge for a new one, but to no avail. Replaced the MAF, engine turns but doesnt fire. A mechanic buddy suggested I replace the crankshaft sensor. Checked fuses, changed crank sensor and same result. A friend asked about the fuel pump, which I noticed wasnt priming when I turned the key to the "On" position. Replaced the Relay AND the fuel pump. SAME FRIGGIN RESULT!

Does anyone have any suggestions or advice. Im running out of cash and heart here

Thanks in advance

 

what year max? is your security light solid when you try to turn it on?

 

So you got a pos new maf it sounds like.... Did you test it with the old one?

 

My maf has 3 pins I think and the replacements from autozone has 4 pins and non of them worked. I had to track down an orilleys that had the 3 pin one. Check and see.

 

Thanks for all the insight guys.
@cornholio 2003 and I'll check in the am but to my knowledge, no

@child_uv no i didnt, guess I'm showing my age here

@donkeypunch I ordered mine from CarParts.com. I'll check that in the am as well

 

gank mafs (also anything and everything) from junkyard

I have a pile of mafs.

 

Last time i went to our local junkyard, before I ordered it, ALL the MAFs were gone from every Max there lol

 

Do you have any codes or pending codes? You need to check and let us know .....
Until you do that, troubleshooting is more difficult. Your problem may be caused by one/more of the following problems:

1. Dirty Throttle Body
2. Bad IACV
3. Bad MAF (since you already replaced it, not likely unless you bought a bad one; have you bought an OEM part (Hitachi) ?)
4. Clogged pre-CATs

To start with, clean your Throttle Body. (I just cleaned mine, and it immediately fixed my starting&stalling problem when warm).
If TB cleaning doesn't fix your problem, check your IACV. There should be about 22-Ohm resistance across each of its half-coils. If not, your IACV is bad and the dreaded P0505 is there or pending. Your pre-CATs may be clogged but they usually do not prevent the car from starting, at least from my own experience. There are quite a few threads on this subject: just search for "gutting precats".

 

good list, but OP can rule out the IACV with his 2003 (partly why i asked what year).

if it was a 2000-01 and you were in the charlotte area i was going to offer an oem maf you could test with, but it won't work correctly in the 03 without some modification

 

Good point and my fault - no IACV on the 2003.
Does it start when you give it some gas? If not, then perhaps checking for spark and fuel the old fashioned way may give you a clue ..... .

 

compression ? how many miles?
Do scan tools allow cylinder power tests and can you determine compression this way?

 

@Maxiiboy I cleaned the throttle body before I changed the MAF and that didnt help. Also its has the electronic TPS, which I hate, so giving it gas while trying to start it doesn't help either. I will look into gutting the pre cat

 

I also do not have a compression gauge. Its at 155K. And to be honest I dont think they do. But I'm not 100% on that one

 

Just did a quick check, no security light, however to add to the purplexing puzzle, the airbag light is flashing as well as the "AT Check" light

 

then it's probably not compression issues yet.

I ordered a $12 cable VAG-COM ISO 9141 > KWP 2000 and scan codes.
You say your out of dough> If you would've followed the recommended procedure to cancel out the CS sensor + Fuel pump you'd still have the dough.

 

Is it necessary to kick the man when he's down? What would you know about following procedures recommended to you?

Anyway op I think you have a maf problem. One way to check is if your car is still starting up. Turn it on with maf plugged in then unplug it and see if you get a change. The car should stall out quickly once unplugged. It's free and can help you figure out if it's the problem. If you get no change when you unplug it then the maf is dead. Also when doing all the relearns are you sure the idle relearn stuck? Sometimes you can get the car to relearn but it doesn't stick. Even after removing the battery cable for 15 min I've had the relearn not stick. Just a couple ideas.

 

To my knowledge, a flashing cel can happen when you misfire or if the coils fail(leading to misfire). Have you checked the resistance of the coils yet? If they are original then my bet is on a coil or two. When my 6th cylinder coil failed my check engine light was flashing up a storm.

 

@Mattx I tried to unplug it and same thing, it turns over but doesnt fire up. Also it never stuck when I first started having idle issues. It would stay for about 100 miles and then start to drop again.

@MadMax I replaced the plugs and the coil packs just before all of this began. When you say "coils" are you referring to this or something else?

 

@MadMax also I know that when the CEL flashes, it means that the cat is potentially being damaged, and when the car misfires, i forget the entire process of it but something to do with unburned fuel getting in the exhaust system.

 

I'm talking about the ignition coil/ coil packs. what brand did you use? Aftermarket coils are known to have issues with our max. I had a choice between all new duralast or a set of junkyard coils, I went with the junkyard they worked fine. I tested them with a voltmeter before instillation.

 

I cant remember but I want to say it was NGK @MadMax

 

Snap a picture of the the coils on the motor, if possible snap a picture of the grounds on the timing chain cover. How old is your battery? I had a friend who had a Sentra that would not start for nothing but it could keep cranking. When we would jump start it it would run but like crap. A new battery solved the running and starting issue. Did you use ngk plugs aswell?

 

If you already mentioned it sorry but do you have a check engine light on right now? If so do you have something to pull the codes? I'm still thinking this is a maf problem. Even with one or two even bad coils the car more than likely starts. Since the car will not fire I'd say maf. Do you have your old maf? Did you try and swap it with the new one to see if that would get you started?

 

The car can still be started even if the maf sensor is unplugged, I just ran outside and did it. If it is a maf issue then he should be able to start the car and idle without it hooked up. He also did just say he did all coils and plugs just before this happened.

 

@MadMax I will snap several pics in about 10 minutes. The battery is just under 2 years old (9/14).

 

@Mattx No scanner or major tools.

 

 

Those white topped coil packs look kinda weird to me, here take a peek at this thread maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/592156-price-best-place-buy-ignition-coils.html

What did you even pay for those coils? Most everyone in the thread say OEM is the way to go and aftermarkets just don't hold.

 

@MadMax ebay i believe. 40$

 

It probably is a MAF issue the car looks pretty well taken car of.

What about cracked deteriorating intake components? Could simulate MAF issues?

 

If you paid 40 for all of the coils, you definitely need to get an ohm meter to check their specs or reinstall the old coils if you have them.

 

Looks like the OP needs a battery hold down.
isn't there a guy selling them on Max.org?

 

If anything the coils could have failed right as you changed the maf, anything is possible with electronics realy. The new maf could be good.

 

If anyone messed with the tb the wrong way than that's the issue

 

Coils in the picture look highly skeptical. Especially at 40. Is that per coil or for all of them? Either way they don't look right. The pic with the boot off the throttle is that just showing the throttle plate? You're not trying to start car like that right?

 

It's not uncommon for the idle to drop as the engine heats up. In fact the idle will not stabilize at 700rpms unless it's with temp parameters.
how do you set idle speed you should let it warm up first
He obviously already had a scan because he knows rpm parameters

 

Haha. I know better. I had just sprayed some throttle body cleaner again. But I can try and reinstall the old coils in the morning and give it a go. And it was 40$ for all 6. But reading all yalls comments I'm realizing cheaper was probably not better in this case.

 

No one cares what you have to say you fvckin moron!

 

Yea unless they're oem used coils $40 is very cheap and I suspect poor quality. Swap them out and do all the relearns just as it says in the 5.5 gen relearn thread.

 

Lol