frogger

I'm looking at buying an exceptionally clean 2002 with 3.0 V6 and 6-speed manual. The clutch is new but the engine and rest of car has 210k miles. You wouldn't know it by the looks of the car, though. It's apparently been well cared for.

I've been searching this site to come up to speed on what I should be aware of before purchasing the rig. Here's my short list:

1) Timing chain tensioner causing engine rattle. I haven't personally listened to the engine run yet as it's about 300 miles from me. But *IF* it does have any rattle, I understand this is a generally nuisance issue since the timing chain design is more or less bulletproof. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

2) Pre cats. With as many miles as the car has, I am rather assuming the pre cats are toast and will either need to be replaced (unlikely for me), or gutted (very likely for me). The rest of the exhaust system may need some TLC also.

3) Rear wheel well rust. Mostly cosmetic, but something to be aware of.

The car would mostly be my back-and-forth-to-work ride. I won't race it, never ever. I just want something dependable BUT FUN to transport me 30 miles per day to work and back. And the occasional weekend trip of 500+ miles.

Yeah yeah, I realize "dependable" is maybe an oxymoron for a ~20 year old car with over 200k miles on it. But I owned a 1998 SE Maxima about 10 years ago. Loved that car. Very sorry I sold it. I let it go with about 120k miles and it never gave me any problems whatsoever. I've always like the 5th Gen, especially with a 6-speed.

If I buy the car, it'll get a general tune up immediately: new plugs, new oil, maybe new O2 sensors, possibly struts, check brakes, all the usual stuff. And I fully expect to have to perform some kind of repairs on a vehicle this old with this many miles. I'm OK with that. I have a garage, tools, and I'm quite mechanically inclined.

Anyway, I'm open to advice, criticism, suggestions, etc. on this potential purchase.

Thanks.

PowerTotheMax

For an 02 I think you mean its a 3.5. Watch out for oil burning. Could be a heavy burner. Some members say that the precats falling apart are the cause of the oil burning. I'm not too sure because I got a low mileage burner with precats still ok when I removed them.

Other members will chime in on what else to look for.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

That car will be a 3.5 and not a 3.0.

The chain rattle is ok as long as it's just at start up. A lot of us have it but I can't think of one that's let go without some other cause.

Pre cats are definitely a concern. As they break down they suck abrasive dust back into the engine leading to oil consumption. Unfortunately there's no way to know until you put some miles on it. If it does end up being an oil burner it's not a huge deal though. Just something to live with.

Be aware of other rust. If you live in the rust belt they'll all be rusty. Check the front core support where the engine cradle connects. Those can be completely destroyed by rust.

These cars can be very dependable. I'm at 220,000 on mine with the last 150,000 being pretty hard with lots of trips to the drag strip. I drive it pretty hard every day. The car has never left me stranded and has only needed a few repairs. Mostly just sensors and small items. If you do your own work and learn from this site you can keep it going. Get familiar with your local You-Pull It yards in town. Great resource for small parts you can't get any more. The 5th gens are starting to show up in the You-Pull It yards more and more as the values drop.

It's smart to go through it but I wouldn't replace the o2 sensors till they give a code. They're expensive and will let you know when they need to be replaced.

Be sure to clean the MAF. That's a weak spot on these cars. Grab a spare from the You-Pull It, test it in the car and keep it in your trunk. I have one stuffed in with the jack.

Any engine with these miles will be needing main seals if they haven't been done. The front seal is ok but the rear is a lot of work. I did seals on my 02 and my 00 this year. The valve covers have probably been replaced by now or it'll be pissing oil from them.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

One more note about the oil burning for what it's worth.
I installed headers at around 75,000 miles. Well before the pre cats broke down. At 220,000 miles it uses very little oil between changes. Well below average for a high mileage car. I've done 10,000 mile oil changes since 70,000 miles too. These motors are solid except for that issue.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

The odds of it not drinking oil is very low.

All hwy or grandma driving would be the only way the precats haven't gone to ****.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

whats very little to you?

i think I am in same boat (gutted cats way later, but they were 100% enact)

i am going to wait to see what you say and then say how much i see between OCI (oil change intervals)

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

you are so consumed with this, i agree with ya man that it is possible and is a thing that can cause probelms, IMO just not in the commonality you portray...

i removed mine way late in the game and they were %100 intact, and though i don't race i don't drive granny either.... just saying... it's not as flat out standard as u put out there.

frogger

Thanks for the info, all.

Yeah, it's 3.5L. I didn't think Nissan introduced the 3.5L in the Maxima until the 6th gen came out. My additional research after I started this thread enlightened me.

Thanks for pointing out the likely need of new engine seals. That's something that didn't occur to me. Definitely something to be aware of.

Is the 6-speed manual more or less trouble-free? How would I know if the syncro's are going out on this vehicle?

Reallyslowrio

3rd gear is probably going to crunch. It's very common for these cars. They updated the trans for 04 to remedy that issue.

Mine does it when the trans is cold. After it's warmed up, no issues.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

A few more years and none will be left on the road.

jackman

Do the precats break down due to mileage or due to age? I'm only at 46K miles, is this something I should be concerned about?

frogger

And when you say "crunch", do you mean it's likely to grind going into 3rd gear until it's warmed up?

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

Definitely a grind. Crunch is more politically correct...

frogger

Got it, thanks.
Hmmm, I'm losing interest in this car quickly.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I don't measure it but I'd say somewhere between one and two quarts over the 10,000 miles. I'm not due for a change for a while but I may start measuring it the next time I top it off.

As others have mentioned, the 3rd gear syncros were weak. Mine had it but it was only during fast shifts at high RPMs. The others I've read about were the same. If you're not hammering on it you'll probably never get it to grind.

Swapping in some Redline MT90 fluid does wonders for the overall performance of these trannys and sometimes helps with the crunch.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

no, unless you floor your car every other day and never check your exhaust for 8 years


if u ever , ever contemplate upgrading any exhaust components, then you should consider taking care of them as well around that time as it makes most sense then, in other words only if u already have other reasons to get involved w the exhaust

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Derrick, yea i had clean precats at time of gutting / removal , and am still burning slightly. ( to me the burning is more or less the age of the vehicle as many other makes and engines would burn some oil here and there at higher miles) It seems it burns more when the oil is dirty towards the end of the oil change interval, I might even google that to see if it is common,

But i dont burn anything the first 1,500-2000 miles and then about half a qt to a qt the remaining 1,000-1,500 miles. So in other words i typically add a lil less than a qt towards the last 3rd of my oil change interval.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

So you're changing oil every 3,000 miles?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I hope it's dino

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

yeah... is that lame Derrick? what's this theory of yours, that i just read about on synthetic and longer OCI ? def open to ideas,

I was close one time in going to use a member's - (talkinghorse) special oil that some have said they have seen less burning directly from the change in oil type.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

whats dino again ?? =)

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i did my own research and dino is natural oil hahaha..ur funny,

regardless i cant wait to hear why the standard 3,000- 3,500k oil change interval is not any good.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Well, Oil is broken down by two factors. Heat and contamination. Synthetic stands up to heat better and all modern oil also has additives which extend it's life by protecting against contamination.

Back in the bad old days engines were built to looser tolerances. This caused a lot of "blow by" of exhaust gasses past the tings and into the oil. This caused the oil (dino) to become contaminated. This is where we get the 3,000 mile oil change from.

Fast forward to more modern times and engines are much tighter. Manufacturers now recommend 7,000 or even 10,000 mile oil changes. I believe Nissan recommends 7,500 with synthetic.

I've been using Mobile1 Extended Performance 15,000 Mile on both my cars since I got them in 2004.

The 00 was purchased at 50,000 and recently rolled over 300,000. I've done 15,000 oil changes this whole time. Inside of the valve cover is perfectly clean with zero buildup, varnish or sludge. Very slight gold color throughout which has been there since I got it.

My 02 was purchased at just under 70,000 and has had 10,000 oil changes since I drive it pretty hard. It's now at 220,000. Inside the VC looks like a brand new car.

All I can say is that it's worked really well for me.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

ok gothca. thanks for that Derrick. makes much sense. for real. and maybe my theory on the dirtier the oil the more it burns may be on to something.

end of story - i guess untill i switch to full synthetic though I am stuck w conventional and per Nissan and our manual it is still the standard (conventional) 3,000 - 3,500 OCI ....

i am at 207200 today , damn thats a lot of oil changes i have paid for ... currently i pay freakin $35 for them.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i have a feeling tho theres some theories around here about how why and when and when not to switch to synthetic though..... i wonder if its too late for me...

maximatech12

Lotta miles !
They sell a fuel pressure testing adapter. I'd say a fuel pressure test would be first .
double check that because that's the dangerous system in any car!
If that leaks it could result in injury.

Maxfli

iTrader: (2)

Here is a datapoint on the oil consumption. My '03 has 123k miles on it now and has used 1 quart every 1,000 miles since i bought it from the original owner back in 2006 with 40k on it. It's not a big deal, just have to keep topping it off every 1-1.5k miles.

I also have the 3rd gear crunch (as you engage 3rd). As Derrick2k2SE said, a flush and refill with Redline MT90 helped significantly and it only crunches when it is cold now.

These cars are fun to drive and dependable if taken care of.

Good luck with your search.