Hello,

I have been experiencing some vibration on acceleration, and a mechanic confirmed this afternoon that my front passenger side CV Shaft (is that the axle?) is wobbling, and needs to be changed for about $400 (parts=$160 & $220 labor).

Is this a DIY job. I am getting better at fixing my car, and just finished a complete brake work (calipers, rotors and pads). So, would I be be able to do this myself?

What CV shats/axles would you recommend among the following from Rockauto:

• CARDONE SELECT 666190: http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...0430&jsn=10430 $71
• SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE NI8094: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....9222&jsn=10429 $66
• EMPIRE 804632: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....9222&jsn=10431 $77
• APWI NI8251A : http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....9222&jsn=10427 $54

thanks - MN

 

From what I've read here, aftermarket CV axles don't go so well with our cars. You end up with some kind of funky vibration.

What're you left with?

- Getting a low mileage OEM one from Ebay.
- Local rebuilder
- Raxles (which may not even be available anymore)
- Nissan Advantage axles. A guy in a recent thread said these Chinese axles from Nissan vibrated the least out of all the aftermarket ones he tried.
- Roll the dice with any of the brands you listed.

EDIT: Here's the thread https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-cv-axles.html

 

It does seem to be a roll of the dice. In my case I replaced 4 axles on my Maximas and bought them from Napa Auto Parts. I used the Napa house brand, new, not re-manufactured.

If the axle has a split boot and isn't vibrating or making noise yet, I would buy a boot kit and replace it. It's a messy job cleaning all the old grease out, but it isn't hard.

 

I have cheapo autozone reman axles on both my 5th gens. No noise or vibration. My wife drives hers normal. I drive mine Hard, to redline through 4th gear. Never any problems.

 

I have cheap reman axles on mine as well. One from Autozone and one from O'reilly. I had one bad one from Advance, but it was noticeable out of the box. Aftermarket can always be a crapshoot. But it's so much cheaper.

 

I used Napa remans for both my axles. If you're lowered, don't even think about reman ones, they will wear out fast. If you're stock height they should last. I went with Napa because they offer a lifetime warranty (keep the receipt) and were no questions asked when I had to use that warranty.

It is a DIY job, did both of mine, take a look at some videos on youtube of it and see if you're comfortable with the process, will be a bit harder than a brake job just because of more difficult access. The hardest part of mine was removing the seized lower ball joint bolt. You might be able to do it without that but it's hard to get the axle out if you don't. You will need a 32 mm bolt to break the axle nut as well, and AutoZone has one on loaner I believe.

 

After a couple months with the Nissan Advantage axles, I'd recommend them over the rest of the aftermarket, but would go with the SurTrak from Rock Auto if cost is a factor as the Nissan Value Advantage aren't much better than the SurTrack, and SurTrak is half the cost. In terms of whether or not it's a DIY job for you, I'd follow the previous advice and check it out on youtube to see if it's something you are comfortable with first. It's not much harder than a complete brake job, but the passenger axle job is a little harder in that the axle nut has to be removed and reinstalled (which can be a challenge as it torqued to 250 ft/lbs) in addition to many more components being disassembled (axles nut, brakes, rotors, carrier bearing, etc..). Also, the passenger side axle carrier bearing nuts are a little hard to reach and access as space is constricted, so there may be a challenge there as well. I also found that a stubby 12mm ratchet wrench helps with removing and tightening those bolts.

 

The only real problem I had was the axle was rusted solid to the bearing carrier. Destroyed the axle getting it out. Luckily it was already broken and being replaced. I now have a favorite jar of anti-seize!

 

Ok. thanks for all your responses. Given all the caution about getting aftermarket axles, I will want to be really sure that mine is broken before I ditch it. All i have is vibration when accelerating from a stop. The mechanic showed me the movement / play / bump on the axle as the car accelerates, but I am not sure what is causing this behavior. So, I want to check if indeed the behavior signals that the axle is broken or not.

If indeed, it is broken, then I will get either the Nissan Advantage or SurTrak version. I've . been watching a lot of youtube vids and think i can handle it - I am looking for more of those done on jack stands though - since that is what I will be doing.

any further thoughts are welcomed.

thanks - folks ..

/MN

 

You're in the rust belt. You'll have to soak the **** out of the carrier bearing and beat the **** out of the axle to knock it loose.

 

one thing to be concerned with if your going to diy make sure the main bolt the lock nut is nice and tight.
if this is not on tight enough your wheel could come off!
other members have reported the axle sheering off at the hub if overtightened.

 

This is a DIY project, and out of 10 being the worse, to me it's a 6. The axle nut uses a 32 or 33 socket. Get a tube iron as leverage to loosen. By memory from doing mine on the 05 and 11 with parts from NAPA:
Remove wheel, brake calipers
Remove axle nut
Remove speed sensor
May have to remove the tie rod for axle access
Rubber hammer to tap hubboff out axle splines
Remove three 10 or 12 mm bolts where axle sits into transmission case
Use heavy duty screwdriver to pry back and release inner axle spline teeth from tranny case
Will lose about a cup of tranny fluid
Measure OEM axle against aftermarket to make sure hey line up properly

Carefully insert new axle in reverse order - a make sure axle is all the way into tranny case and should not take much effort to slide in.

This job would take me about 45 minutes

Oh, any refurbished axle will work, with preference from NAPA, Autozone, then advance auto -- in that order.

If you have to bang the crap to loosen, then double check to make sure you removed all bolts. If you are clear, spray liquid wrench around the sealed areas and let soak for about 10 minutes. Use rubber hammer to tap the sealed areas to help liquid soak into those rusted areas

Good luck and go for it. Get some good reachable tools to get the job done

Here is a great video!!!

 

Thanks to you all for your suggestions. I have decided to tackle this job. I will get the necessary parts later this month, and then take it up. I will be back with further questions, if needed.

thanks - MN

 

I took mine in for alignment and mechanic told me my pass side front was torn and had no grease. $220 he quoted me. He said Id probably hear a whining when turning but I don't. I do have vibration in front and orignally thought it was tires out of balance.

 

If you're doing this without air tools the axle nut can be a challenge. Get a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe to lengthen it. You can break a regular 1/2" ratchet doing this. The problem can be that pulling on it can jerk the car around and take force off the actual nut you're trying to brake free.

The trick is to remove the wheel, remove the center cap and reinstall the wheel. Set the car back down and set the e-brake or put it in park if it's auto. Now when you go to break it free you have a stable platform to pull against.

The nut will be either a 32mm or 36mm. could be either but probably 36.

 

Another great advice derrick.

I usually place a screwdriver into the gills of the rotor and have it locked against the brake caliper. A tube bar for extra leverage, and close to horizontal. Then I would have someone hold the steering wheel from turning while I stand on the pipe bar.

 

Holy ****! I should replace this right? I turned the wheels and snapped photos to check boot conditions today

 

It looks like the clamp may have failed. I'd put a band clamp on it and leave it alone unless it's clicking.

 

Thanks!

I've been getting a wobbly vibration when braking (usually downhill). You think it's these aftermarket axles?

 

Change them out. Not worth your while on a long distance trip and have a failure A stitch in time saves nine.

 

Plus every time you turn the wheel grease gets everywhere.

 

replace it!

 

Probably not. When axles cause vibration it's going to be under acceleration or when powering through a turn.

The vibration is probably from warped front rotors or possibly worn tie rod ends.

I don't see any reason to swap it. I'd still put a new clamp on the boot and keep going. It's very rare for an axle to fail and leave you stranded. Even one that's clicking, vibrating or has a torn boot will still work for thousands of miles.

 

I just replaced my CV axles. This is my 2nd time around, so here is my axle story:

• 11/23/2013, at 116,700 miles: The boots on my OEM axles were torn. No vibration, but both axles were beginning to click. Because other suspension work was being done on the car, I had both axles replaced with new SureTracks. We had big problems with one of the two new axles right out out of the gate - there was a big "clunk" when shifting (P->D, D->R, etc.). My mechanic returned and replaced the offending axle free of charge. Even after this replacement, the driver side axle always felt a bit loose, and within 3 years started vibrating badly when accelerating in left-hand turns. The boot on the passenger side axle cracked some time in mid-2016. All this lead to the current/latest replacement.
• 4/25/2017, at 141,200 miles. Replaced both SureTracks with new FEQs. I just got the car back, and at this time, there is an amazing difference: no vibration, the car drives smooth and tight, and it feels like a new car.

So, based on my experience I would definitely stay away from SureTracks. Re. FEQ's, it's too early to make any final conclusions but they look promising; I'll let you know how they work out.

 

They're more expensive then all the rest too.
Where did u get them?

 

Why not just buy a new axle nut or use the 36mm replacement nut that comes with the axle?
If you reuse the old it could develop a crack!

 

Not sure where my mechanic got them; perhaps from Advanced Auto Parts, but that's just a guess. Charged me ~ $770.- for parts, labor, and alignment. He guarantees his work and the parts he provides for a year, so I took him up on it rather than buying parts myself and having him install them (there would be no warranty then). Besides, after doing a lot of research here and elsewhere, I could not come to any conclusion re. which axles to buy.

 

One more thing re. my new axles: No more clunking when downshifting 3->2.
I was getting afraid that my transmission is getting sick, but all those issues are now gone. Smooth as butter - so I can only conclude that all the clunks were caused by my axles.

 

That's good. Hopefully the FEQ's stay that way. Aftermarket axles are a luck of the draw. The overseas factories cranking them out make one good unit for every five bad ones.

 

Arguably my best spend for jobs like these was on a kobalt electric impact wrench. Having no air compressor it has been a life saver for front end work and lug nuts on my truck and just used it on my exhaust the other day. Axles, control arms, etc.

Lowes actually had it in sale for 100 at Christmas sales time last year, so if interested watch for that. I paid 149. Not one regret.

 

I might have an exhaust hole in the flex pipe piece. Unsure where at this point.

I also need to replace passenger axle.

For those who have done this, would the removal of the y-pipe make this axle a breeze? It seems as though last time I looked the y-pipe isn't bad to come off and then the axle removal headaches go away?

Any thoughts on this? Ypipe and axle done same time???

 

Perform the surgeries separately.
the Y is easy, just make sure you have the car completely on jack up front. Simple socket sets

the axle also easy, make sure you have an axle nut socket, I believe 32mm. If don’t break, spray some PB blaster

sis both but on separate occasions. Watch a few YouTube vids

 

Thanks, Les.

So I took to a shop recommended by coworker for exhaust leak free est. They say flex pipe is leaking and would cut/weld new in for $120. Didn't get specifics but I assume that's just a cheap alum coated filler piece.

They said they wouldn't do it until I get motor mount(s) replaced and they don't do that. Just exhaust/struts stuff. Say excess movement. I couldn't see it because car was off lift when they told me. This was all free but I'm not sure the mounts are bad. Wouldn't I hear knocking?

This same shop told me my axles are fine; a diff shop 3yrs ago said my psgr axle was causing vibration I was complaining about. And this is getting worse.

How can I PROVE the motor mount OR axle is bad? Both shops seem honest but one seems to be missing the diagnosis. I've had discount check my wheels 2yrs ago and said they were not this issue.

Yesterday's rain made it drive smoother and tons less vibration. I am so DONE with this vibe and have no sure direction for a fix.

 

Good god, why in the world would you touch the exhaust to replace the axles?

Axles, which btw are only $130 bux.
Just pop a new set in on your driveway and kiss your vibration goodbye. Set aside an afternoon. Boom, done.

 

Regarding mounts and exhaust:

If your motor lurches back and forth excessively when revving the engine, replace the fore and aft mounts. Or if visibly damaged/torn/rotted, etc., obviously.

They won't replace Ypipe if they see bad mounts because you'll just be back in 6 months *****ing about how ****ty their work was when your excessive motor movement is what actually destroyed their work. I don't blame them. Figure out the front and rear mounts then deal with the Ypipe, which, btw, can be found at a yard for next to nothing, or ebay for less that $200 brand new, then just bolt it on yourself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Y-P...sAAOSwiZZblq1C

 

Exhaust issue is one thing. Vibration another. Checking into exhaust leak brought me full circle to vibe and now as to whether it's an axle or mount.

I've revved it myself in park and don't see movement but must it be in drive for this inspection? Seems like it shouldn't matter but idk.

And yes, I need to know about any !mount issues that may cause more flex pipe issues.

 

Fore and aft shifting will be more pronounced in gear. Both mounts are easily and completely visible from underneath. Just jack it up nice and high and have a gander.

 

To test your motor mounts, put the car in drive and while keeping your foot on the brake, give the engine some gas. If the motor mount is bad, you will see the engine lift up several/ 6 inches. Then put the transmission is reverse and do it again. Drive checks one mount, reverse checks the other.

 

I have the 2000 3.0l so it looks that link won't apply. But I get what you're saying. Its just that if I start replacing y-pipe then the cat downstream and the o2 sensor piece next to that beg me as well since they r in rough shape. Just trying not to let this milk me.

Dennis:
I will put in gear and try again. I've just heard that if you put much gas to an auto in drive with brakes on it can break something so I've just been really hesitant to let that be an issue. Just not familiar with what "you can get away with" on some stuff.

 

You can put the tranny in whatever gear you like and floor the gas pedal while you are stepping on the brakes. It won't hurt anything. But for the motor mount testing, you don't need to floor the gas pedal but you want to get the engine rpm up to 1500 rpm or so. Just be watching the engine as you increase the rpms.