Urgent TPS help beeeded
Urgent TPS help beeeded
I am doin a tune up my 2000 maxima and I took off the iac and tps to clean them but now I don't know how to set the tps properly. Can someone please tell me how to adjust the tps correctly I left the 2 screws loose until I set it properly thanks
Ouch, I don't know why you would clean a TPS since it's a electrical sensor. from what I understand is the TPS should be aligned with your butterfly connector, which should snap in and sit flush but since you were cleaning it, you probably messed up the circuitry board that is imprinted the pintle bracket.
Thanks for responding. Reason I cleaned the tps and iacv was because I Had a problem with high idle after the car warms up the car would go to around 3500 rpms while in park or neutral but in drive it's was ok so I Took out tps and iacv cleaned both and replaced and now it does this in park and neutral (video link below) and sometimes it still does the same problem from before where it would idle at 3500 rpms. When I say I left the 2 screws loose I meant on the tps from the videos I seen I used my multimeter and with the key on engine off I backprobed the middle wire ok the brown connector on the tps and set it to .5 volts I didn't know what to set it at. Now I don't know what to do next I need help fixing this issue or high/surging idle in park or neutral. I also have both terminals off the battery leaving it off overnight hoping i can reset the ecu.
Need some serious help. Thanks
EDIT : I forgot to mention the high idle in park/neutral happened randomly before I took out and cleaned the iac and tps
Need some serious help. Thanks
EDIT : I forgot to mention the high idle in park/neutral happened randomly before I took out and cleaned the iac and tps
Last edited by diplomat1; May 4, 2017 at 02:49 AM.
It isn't loose anymore I tightened them here is s picture I found online same bolts I am
Talking about
http://vqpower.com/images/howto/tps/tpsscrews.jpg
What I did was backprobe the middle wire on the brown connector with key on IGnition off and at .5 volts I righted the tps bolts down (same ones pictured)
Talking about
http://vqpower.com/images/howto/tps/tpsscrews.jpg
What I did was backprobe the middle wire on the brown connector with key on IGnition off and at .5 volts I righted the tps bolts down (same ones pictured)
Ok im gonna check the scanner. Last night I Took off both pos and neg battery cables hoping it will do a ecu reset. I drove the car before it was fully warmed and car ran great. Idle was good even in neutral/park car didn't surge or anything. When it got fully warm it started to do the surge idle as u see in the video. I also changed the coolant temp sensor. I'm confused as to what it could be
Does your intake duct have any cracks? All clamps tight? Any other vacuum hoses have leaks? If not a vacuum leak, that could be an intermittent bad electric connection and those are very hard to diagnose.
Does IACV have a gasket? Is it good?
Does IACV have a gasket? Is it good?
I don't see any leaks.all clamps are tight. When I took off the iac I only took the 3 Phillips head screws off and yes it had a gasket. I'm pretty sure gasket is good but can double check tomorrow. I drove the car again today and the same seems to happen. When the car is cold or not fully warm the car will idle and run fine. I don't think it's a vacuum leak I think it might be either a sensor starts messing up when it gets warm or the computer goes from cclosed loop to open loop? It's a stretch but why is it only when it's warm now. If the car runs fine when cold does that mean the ecu isn't fried? Any way of testing?
I don't see any leaks.all clamps are tight. When I took off the iac I only took the 3 Phillips head screws off and yes it had a gasket. I'm pretty sure gasket is good but can double check tomorrow. I drove the car again today and the same seems to happen. When the car is cold or not fully warm the car will idle and run fine. I don't think it's a vacuum leak I think it might be either a sensor starts messing up when it gets warm or the computer goes from cclosed loop to open loop? It's a stretch but why is it only when it's warm now. If the car runs fine when cold does that mean the ecu isn't fried? Any way of testing?
It looks like you have a bad IACV (with no code thrown), and perhaps you are lucky enough that your ECU is still good. To verify your IACV, measure the resistance across its half-coils; should be ~20-23 Ohms (more info in the document). To replace, use OEM only. Get it from here: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....359222&jsn=378
Thanks to everyone that responded I just went to check codes and I got the dreaded p0505. I am gonna send the ecu out to be repaired and put in a new oem iacv. Is there anyway to know for sure my ecu is bad? I want to make sure before i send it out as it is my daily driver. Also is there a how to on how to adjust the tps when it gets taken off? I don't think my tps is adjusted correctly. Thanks
Thanks to everyone that responded I just went to check codes and I got the dreaded p0505. I am gonna send the ecu out to be repaired and put in a new oem iacv. Is there anyway to know for sure my ecu is bad? I want to make sure before i send it out as it is my daily driver. Also is there a how to on how to adjust the tps when it gets taken off? I don't think my tps is adjusted correctly. Thanks


