Mdettling

Hi all,

i decided to spring for a 3rd Maxima after owning an 84 and 86 SE during my high school years.

Here I have a 2000 GLE, 184k miles.

First two weeks were great, now getting codes with SES and Slip and something else lights . P1320 and P0306. The coil code follows the coil and returns back to #6.

it does need mounts that's for sure. There is a split in the PCV hose on the front valve cover end, as well as a split in the intake hose that clamps into the throttle body.

runs great, then it's an episode of Jekyll and Hyde-ness that comes and goes on it's own.

New NGK v-power coppers and ran the same maybe a lil smoother. It's always, always smooth on a cold start till the coils heat up.

new plugs had this whitish deposit on the ground electrodes after maybe 25 miles. MAF cleaned also. Electronic motor mounts have been disconnected.

What am I missing besides the coils and intake leak? Is there a way for the coolant leak at iacv to make it to the cylinders?

All this troubleshooting is making me want to sell it already for a more reliable ride to work.

PM me for pics of plugs.

Appreciate your time and input.

Mike

5thgendriver

congrats! I would first fix the worn hoses....especially the one after the maf as it could be getting unmetered air which will can cause a lean condition.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I would also do the coolant bypass at the throttle body. That causes a lot of IACV issues on these cars.

maxiiiboy

The 3.0L engine is bulletproof.
So, if you take care of the transmission (I would do triple drain&fill, then every 15k) and avoid the infamous IACV/ECU issues you should be fine for a while.
What shape are your pre-cats in?

maximatech12

Drain/fill I'd use Matic-D. It's the perfect viscosity for the XTRONIX

Also you'll probably have a better response on a cold start with the Nissan anti-freeze in it.


Also if your referring to the PCV hose that runs from one valve cover to the other
You should be OK with just 13/32" I.D. universal PCV hose.

Mdettling

Thanks all for the replies.

I have read read up on 5th gens, the biggest issue im having is the tranny slipping 1-2. Im looking into a Transgo shift kit.

anybody have experience with this kit? I've never pulled a VB off a tranny, so naturally this makes me nervous. Heard about the harsh/too firm shifts. I like that feeling when shifting my 95 Prizm 3spd manually.

Aside from the minor niggling issues, it drove like a dream the first two weeks.

Should i I bother getting a $1000 loan from the finance co to get this sweet car back into shape including new tires brakes trans kit, coils etc?

its been 20 years since I owned those two other Max's, those were the most reliable ones that still talked. XD

thanks again!

Mdettling

Shall I take a peek into the ECU? I have a feeling it might be a little messy in the brain?

I can start it and watch it do it's Jekyll and Hyde thing without touching a thing.

Seems worse now that the ambient temps are much warmer than when I bought it.

tips hints tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Mike

VQ35maxima=Beast

iTrader: (1)

If you got coolant into the IACV this could cause ECU issues as you might have already read. I would go ahead and put coils on and see where that gets you. I recommend OEM nissan grey dot coils.

I have dealt with the shift kit. But I did not install myself. It is AWESOME. Could save your trans in the long run as well. As others have stated the 3.0 is a super super reliable engine, and if you can fix these little issues here and there it will treat you well.

If you DO end up figuring out you need an ECU you can pull one from a wrecking yard for 50$ or less (at least where I live).

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Check it for vacuum leaks. Especially the intake hose and PCV since you already said they were split.

You can find a vacuum leak by spraying brake parts cleaner anywhere you suspect a leak. When the cleaner hits the leak the engine will surge. Just watch your eyes.

Mdettling

Hey folks.

Its been a busy summer! Haven't had a chance to work on the '00 GLE.

Went to to start it last week after sitting for a month and a half. Dead battery.

Put battery on charger for a week.

She fired up and ran perfect around the block.

Next day it ran like crap as usual. I'm thinking the IAC dried up and when the cooling system got pressurized it got wet again.

Thinking maybe if I unplug the IAC it wouldn't be shorting out the ECM? Something to do with the injector driver circuit? What about the coil circuit, is that off the ECM?

I'm handy with a multimeter if the IAC short can be confirmed.. without removing it.

The motor mounts have been unplugged also as a precaution since mounts are loose as a vegas hooker.

No rush fixing this as the Prizm is dead reliable and cheaper to insure.

Eventually, may end up giving it to my mother as an early Christmas present. Or should she keep driving her 96 Dodge Caravan 3.0?
Decisions, decisions...

Thanks again guys. I miss the reliable 84 and 86's. Hrmph.

Mike

MichMaxFan

Hahaha....funny you mentioned the caravan. I own the 2000 maxi and did have the exact same caravan year, too. Weird.

Both vehicles are/were reliable. Both struggle against salt corrosion if not rinsed a lot or sprayed with oil or similar on the underbody. Both need super duper regular fluid changes or kiss them goodbye. They dont survive neglect as some might fare better if neglected.

I would keep the maxi.