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Help Jerky shifting wont go above 2500 rpm

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Old 08-17-2017, 08:01 PM
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Help Jerky shifting wont go above 2500 rpm

Bear with me here this is alot to read .I have a 2003 nissan maxima 3.5l v6 automatic transmission with 131k miles. Okay so this is pretty embarrassing but I'll be honest here. The other day I was checking my oil and what not and noticed this red plug was unplugged and didnt think anything of it, the next day I plugged it in I figured what's the worst that could happen well all of a sudden I smelled a bad burnt rubbery smell is the only way I can put it and I noticed smoke coming from the right side if the engine bay not alot but it was there, I immediately unplugged the red wire and went to make sure everything was alright. So I went in and tried to start the car and it wouldn't start at first it woudlnt turn over. So I tried again and it started but it also made a weird noise after it started . So anyways I thought my problems were over but when I started driving the car wouldn't shift past 2500 rpm , it will go up to 2500 rpm then once it hits that line the car jerks and the rpm needle goes up and down back to 2000 rpm it wont go above 2500 rpm, I've looked all over online trying to find a solution I don't think its the transmissiion because everything else has always worked fine in that sense of putting the car in gear and stuff and shifting before I plugged that wire in it just will not go above 2500 rpm could it be a crank positioning sensor ??I just don't know so if anyone could please give me some insight I would greatly appreciate it thank you I'm also going to attatch pictures of what that red plug was that caused the smoke and these problems I'm having. Red plug that i plugged back in and caused smoke
Farther back picture of the red plug its near the middle of the screen to the right

Last edited by tanker365; 08-17-2017 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 08-18-2017, 06:39 AM
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I'm thinking that's the plug for your electronically controlled engine mount. I don't have an autotragic so I haven't read up on them too much, but they're notorious for causing trouble, even frying ECUs in the earlier 5th gens.

Don't know if they usually cause limp mode (the 2500 RPM limit you're describing).

Unplug it if you haven't already
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Old 08-18-2017, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by freezer
I'm thinking that's the plug for your electronically controlled engine mount. I don't have an autotragic so I haven't read up on them too much, but they're notorious for causing trouble, even frying ECUs in the earlier 5th gens.

Don't know if they usually cause limp mode (the 2500 RPM limit you're describing).

Unplug it if you haven't already
yes I've unplugged it I'm going to talent to an electronics shop and have them try and diagnose it
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:27 PM
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As someone mentioned,that's for the front mount, I have mine unplugged as well because the electronics in the mount usually fails and it burns up the ECU. Probably worth mentioning to whoever is going to diagnose the problem.
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Old 08-19-2017, 03:42 PM
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Okay so I took it to a electronics shop and they diagnosed it and fixed it because it was in limo mode everything was fine for about 5 hours until I went on the highway and noticed a loss of power then it went back into limp mode , so now I'm right back where I started should I look into having the whole ecu replaced?? Because I think it might have fried the ecu could that be why it keeps going Into limp mode the technician said that all the sensors and everything were good. Btw there is still a bad burnt rubbery type smell in the car
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by tanker365
Okay so I took it to a electronics shop and they diagnosed it and fixed it because it was in limo mode everything was fine for about 5 hours until I went on the highway and noticed a loss of power then it went back into limp mode , so now I'm right back where I started should I look into having the whole ecu replaced?? Because I think it might have fried the ecu could that be why it keeps going Into limp mode the technician said that all the sensors and everything were good. Btw there is still a bad burnt rubbery type smell in the car
The brown connector you show in the picture connects your electronic engine mount. It is a well known issue with our cars that these mounts often fail (by going short) and take the ECU out. The previous owner of your car disconnected the connector (for good reasons); when you reconnected it, you signed your own death warrant.

To understand the issues and repair options you have, read the document about ECU failure prevention (link in my signature). It is not clear to me why your car should go into "limp" mode just because the transistor(s) driving the electronic mounts burnt out; perhaps your car has other problems, or perhaps that's the way Nissan designed it. In either case, try to repair your ECU first. There are suggestions in the document. Also, find out if there are any codes, or pending codes. Good luck.
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:43 AM
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I'm new to these forums and I have no clue where the link your talking about is. Also the only codes that have come up are a small evap leak and a p0650 check engine light code , this is what puzzles me is like you said why is the car going into limp mode I feel like it's the ecu because the shop I took it to flashed the ecu and that fixed my problem for about 6 hours then like I said before it went back into limp mode so I'm at a loss I think the whole ecu is going to need replaced I hate to say that especially since all these problems have been caused by me and my dumb curiosity
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:52 AM
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Read the document in my signature: The last line, below, starts with "How to prevent ...."
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Old 08-21-2017, 01:47 PM
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hmmm...sounds like curiosity killed the ecu. bummer....
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