Hey y'all, first time on here and have something I just can't figure out. Occasionally my 02 will not turn over at all. No sound, clicking, nothing. All power is completely dead. Battery is good. Replaced ignition switch and still happens. Also have replaced the battery ground cable. Was thinking of replacing all grounds with new 8g wires or a grounding kit. Also the Bose sub, as I call it the mystery sub, works and then stops and then turns on from time to time. Most of time it doesn't work. And there is a mesh looking wire underneath driver side that is hanging from the muffler area but not sure if that is any issue. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

 

I'd be looking at the starter and the wiring going to it.
You could also swap the starter relay with another one in the panel but the relays are pretty reliable on these cars.

Here's a link to the fix for the Bose cut out problem.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...er-issues.html

 

Hey Derrick, thanks for the info & help. I have checked the starter previously but will do so again tomorrow. What I forgot to mention is there is not only no sound when key is turned over but all interior and dash lights and all power are also non-existent when this occurs. Looks like I get to break out my soldering kit for the sub thx for the thread and instructions from your previous post! And hope I find something in the starter area to relieve main issue. Thanks again!

 

You may want to check the battery cables where they go into the battery post clamp. They develop corrosion and lose contact.

 

If you're losing the lights as well it's probably not in the starter.

As Dennis said, Clean up the battery cables and work back from there.

Are you in an area with a lot of corrosion?

 

+1 I had a no power/no start issue 2-3 weeks ago that was *fixed* with a wiggle of the main positive battery cable.

 

Hi Dennis, already done that. Sanded/grinded the area at the chassis and on the block. Seemed like it worked and then continued to happen from time to time afterward. Replaced the negative battery cable to the chassis as well. Still happens from time to time. Are there other grounding wires that could affect this? If so then where to look or replace? I looked at a schematic of electrical and cannot even begin to understand where to look other than negative battery cable to chassis and then to block. It just seems like a grounding issue the way there is no power and then comes on.Thanks for your time and thoughts

 

Hey Derrick, yes have already done that as well as replace the negative cable to chassis. Sanded/cleaned the area as well as from chassis to block. It seemed to work better and then still happens from time to time. I'm on the east coast of Florida above WPB. This is my 4th maxima/I30 and never had an issue like this. However this is my first gen 5 max

 

Power to the Instrument Cluster (and to dash lights) is supplied via two fuses (#12 and #30) in the Fuse Box in the lower left corner of the dash. I would check the power on these two fuses:

• If there is no power, it's either the Accessory Relay, or the Ignition Switch, or the associated wiring.
• If there is power, as it should be (but your dash lights are off), then the problem is either the Instrument Cluster itself (not likely), or your ground distribution (likely).

My guess is that you have an intermittent Accessory Relay problem, or an intermittent grounding issue.
At any rate, the above may (not) solve your starting problem, but it should help with your dash lights. One step at a time.

 

Quick update - The no power issue just went away from the last time I posted and thought I may be free of issues. How wrong can I be? It started acting back up but this time I can hear some noise under the steering column. Has done it a couple times and then starts later but today was different. I was driving down the road and lost all power to dash lights and car shut off. Was able to steer to side of road (with no power steering) and as I was stopped the static-like noise sounded again and then the dash lights came on and I restarted the car and drove home. I have already replaced ignition switch about a year ago. Also, allowed my son to drive with me about a week ago and he did the teenage double start while it had already started. Same thing happened as lost all power and dash lights and then it started about 10 minutes later. This probably has stoked the previous issue I'm assuming. Any ideas??? This is our 4th Max but never had electrical issues. Any help or suggestions is truly appreciated.

 

You have an intermittent ground and/or power distribution problem. Or, perhaps alternator/battery or charging subsystem problem. Its intermittency makes it very hard to diagnose, because you can only diagnose it when it's present. Time for some basic checks: a) Make sure your battery voltage is OK (12.5V when not charging, 14+V when charging); b) That things don't change when you wiggle cables, and c) Check ground continuity across the key points - (battery Minus terminal, engine ground on valve cover, transmission, and few others).
I also suggest you buy this handy gizmo and plug it into your cigarette lighter: . In my gar, this handy meter shows steady 12.5V when the engine is not running, and 14.0-14.5V when it's running and charging. I suggest you watch it all the time, and you watch it really close when your cluster light problems (or car shut-off) occur.

 

Thanks, Maxiiboy for the suggestions and help. I have ordered the gizmo. Do you know where I can find a ground layout for the ground spots you mentioned? Also if this turns into a power distribution issue rather than intermittent ground, is this something I will be able to fix or take to mechanic to fix if I have diagnosed the problem for them? It happened again this morning and would not come back on at all.

 

In the EL section of the FSM.

 

10-4 and thank you.

 

Well I'm not sure if I have struck gold or found something really bad. Started right up and move it outside, turned off, back on and turned off. Went for third time and same no power issue. Only this time about 30 seconds later I heard a clicking noise that just kept ticking and determined it was this box. Felt it clicking and then pulled that wire cluster out......ticking noise gone. No power at all to the inside of car still with the exception of security light blinking. Also I have heard this noise in past but very, very faint and it went away fast. Any thoughts? And the gizmo thing is being delivered today.

 

This looks like you may have a problem with your NATS/NVIS (the Nissan Security System and Immobilizer).
Is the red security light on when the "no power/no start" issue occurs? If it is, you definitely do. Also, are you always starting the car with same key, or do you have and use multiple keys?
In either case, read the description in the FSM, it starts on page EL-321.

 

Correct, the red light still blinks even when no power. Sometimes it looks a little faded when loss of power but then normal red blinking. I have two keys and mainly use one but sometimes the other just because they are on the same key holder on wall. I do not use the alarm because of the no start issue and I turn off all accessories before turning off car as well. Guess just paranoid for it not to start. Also the sunroof has just opened on its own driving down the road and could not close it until later in the day. The passenger power seat does not work from time to time either. I have the Auto seat memory thing off all the time. Sometimes the lock/unlock button doesn't work on both doors and then you hit a couple times and it works. Just tried moving the driver power seat to see if anything and I hear a clicking sound from the white box underneath seat. Didn't happen every time but still made a click noise. All while no power inside car. Trying to recall if any other strange things but I think this covers them all. Had a subwofer issue but someone said to jump the circuit board and that will take care of that. Was thinking this car just had unfortunate things to it. Never had issues like this on any of our other Max's. I love these cars. And is it safe to assume the CONSULT-11 tool is for a dealer or auto shop? Thank you again for your thoughts and help!

 

Never mind red light blinking. If/when NATS prevents you from starting the car, the security light will be ON SOLID during you starting attempt (when everything is OK, the light should be OFF during your starting attempt).
And yes, CONSULT is a Nissan dealer tool.

 

Okay. Is it safe to say I'm close to figuring out the loss of power/no start issue with this or it may be something else and this is just another issue all together? And in your experience is this something worth fixing or get rid of because of the possible high cost to fix/resolve?

 

With the information I have, I can't answer your questions. Moreover, your car may have multiple issues.
NATS works by checking the identity of the key you use to start the car against the identity of up to N keys (N is 3 or 4, I believe) it has stored in the ECU. If there is no match (because the chip in the key failed, or because the RFMD reader in the steering column is faulty, or for any other reason), it will prevent the fuel injectors from firing. If this is the case, then: a) The starter will be cranking the engine, but the engine will not start, and b) The security light will be ON SOLID.
Is this your problem?

I suspect not, since you have talked about total loss of power (so, I assume, no cranking). However, the ticking issue, and the white box in your picture makes me think that IMMU (the Immobilizer Unit) is somehow involved. Not sure, just suspecting.

 

That is definitely not the problem. Total loss of power, no cranking, no lights, nothing but the red light blinking inside. Plugged it back in and no clicking noise but still no power/nothing. Holy ghost chasing Batman!

 

That is definitely not the problem. Total loss of power, no cranking, no lights, nothing but the red light blinking inside. Plugged it back in and no clicking noise but still no power/nothing. Holy ghost chasing Batman!
Just got gizmo and the power ranges from 13.80 to 15.0 with it most of the time in the 14.1-14.8 range while on. Decided to disconnect negative battery cable for 5 min and then reattach it. Power came on and turned over. Turned off 1 min and then went to restart, power came on and then went completely off with some kind of click noise underneath and then lights came back on and started up. Tried to upload video of it but wouldn't work

 

OK, this problem is well known problem - we call it "No Crank, No Start". It may be caused by:

• Bad battery or wiring
• Bad ignition switch (wiggle it)
• Inhibitor relay (only a faint click can be heard)
• Bad starter (loud click – when solenoid fails to engage)
• Bad P/N Switch (AT only)
• Clutch Switch stopper broken/bad (MT only)
• Few other problems.

And no ghost chasing. The basic issue here is that battery voltage (12V) is not getting to the starter. It's not a rocket science to trace the path (battery -> starter) and figure out how far the 12V voltage gets, and what the failing component is.

 

Interstate battery - <2 years old - replaced negative cable to chassis and cleaned the area on block from chassis. No corrosion
Bad Ignition switch - replaced about a year ago. Thought this was the issue but still occurred.
Inhibitor Relay???
Bad Starter - replaced three weeks ago. Easy diagnosis as I hit it with a stout object and started right afterward. Also had the normal click sound from it when bad
Bad P/N switch? Had two sensors replaced about 1-1/2 years ago for a small sum of $1200. Guess they saw me coming. It would not switch from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th gear and rpm's would go off the chain
Other problems?

Should I replace the Inhibitor relay first if not costly? It should be known this has been going on for a while. I had a company vehicle so I rarely used the car and didn't really happened when used sparingly but now have switched jobs and driving full time and happening a lot. Before company car it was happening a lot as well.

 

No, don't replace anything right away. Don't you want to know what the problem is?

Start by reading this thread: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...rt-thread.html

 

10-4
Will go through steps on thread and see what is what. Thank you for all your time and information and will update soon. Also I'm not sure of rules here on the site but I feel I should pay you or at least give you something for your time and help so far. I have a bracelet company that I would gladly give you some of your choice for you and/or your family (wife, girlfriend, friend, etc.) if you are interested. Kindly let me know and thanks again for all your time and help!

 

Ok, Just did the test. All was good until the volt meter on the power side of starter. Was reading 12.4 something, had my son turn it over and then it dropped to 9.5 something and then back to 13.5+ after it was running. So if I understand the thread there is a cable or battery post issue, correct? The battery is around 12.5v when I tested it prior to starting. I'm thinking I should have the battery inspected or should try replacing the wires. Suggestions?

 

1 - The battery voltage before cranking was ok.
2 - The battery voltage during cranking is not ok.
3 - The battery voltage after starting was marginal to bad.

2 - There are 3 things that can cause low voltage during cranking.
a - Bad starter. The starter is drawing too much amperage.
b - Bad battery. It cannot supply enough amperage. Get it load tested.
c - Loose connection somewhere between battery and starter.

3 - Specifications are 14.1 to 14.7 volts. This means the alternator's internal voltage regulator is not what it should be. Many rebuilt alternators seem to be set at below Nissan specifications. This means it will take longer to recharge the battery. Driving short trips may not fully recharge the battery.

I don't know specifically what the problem is. Things need to be checked. But if you are still having the no power to anything, then I would first check for bad connections.

 

When you crank the engine, the battery voltage will drop because there is a big current flowing through the starter and battery. 9.5V sounds about right. I assume the engine started ok, right?

 

Dennis, I have to disagree re. #2. When I start my car, the battery voltage briefly drops to 9.5-9.8 V. Repeatedly. Just tried it again.
The car starts like a charm.

 

A - I replaced starter 3 weeks ago.
B - Gonna get it load tested
C - Checked all connections to starter and cannot find anything loose. Thinking about doing the big 3 wires like one of the threads on here.
The crazy thing is it just happens and then will start at a later time. I'm taking video of when I start it so hopefully I can catch it happening and upload to youtube so it can be seen what is going on. My gut said it was a ground but that doesn't make sense now to me as when I hit bumps it doesn't shut off. Only once has it ever shut off driving down the road and that was last week. I'm thinking it is on the power side but what do I know. I really appreciate everyone's help and input on here for sure! And hope to get it remedied so if others ever have this issue it will help them also.

 

Correct, when it doesn't have the no power issue it starts right up. No issues but I have noticed it idling a tad rough lately. Replaced plugs about 2 months ago along with new valve covers/gaskets.

 

You have me believing that when you say no power to anything, you are saying that there are no lights in the instrument cluster, no dome lights, the horn doesn't honk, etc.

If that is correct, then messing with the starter is a waste of time. I also think that continuing to go about this as a ground problem is also a waste of time. You have to focus on the +12 side.

You need to have your voltmeter handy at all times so that when the problem shows up, you can check for voltage at various locations while the problem is occuring.

The big, thick cable from the positive battery post goes only the the starter. The rest of the car gets its power from the 120 amp fuse that is up on the positive battery post connector. I would suggest taking it apart and do a close, careful examination of this.

 

That is exactly it, DennisMik...no power of any sort except security light blinking, even that has gone super dim from time to time. Doing the big 3 wire change this weekend. Maxiiboy suggested to get a volt meter gizmo for cigar lighter and it changes a lot while running. Can't recall who mentioned about the short driving runs and power with alternator but now making a lot of sense. Maybe I was over thinking/complicating things. If the power cables are the issue I will feel bad if I have frustrated y'alls help and time. But it is starting to make sense. The more I drive it the more it happens. When it sits for a while it has no issues and starts like a champ. Has to be power source at this point. for sure. Everything will be apart so hope to remedy for sure. I really appreciate y'all helping me and the forum as well. Will update soon

 

Have you tried the basics?

a. can you jump start the car? if yes, that narrows things down a lot
b. if you can't jump start the car, then use a multi-meter to check the voltage from wires - if you don't know how to use a multi-meter, you can youtube it. If you don't have one, you can buy one for $15. A multi-meter will let you check where power is/isn't being delivered.

 

I purchased a wire kit that has extra wire for me to do the big 3, which I'm doing tomorrow. I also got a 300 ANL fuse in the kit. Will this work for the power cable to the alternator or do I need a different type of 300 amp fuse? Also will it matter how long the power cable is? I want to attach the fuse somewhere so it is not just hanging in the air. I'll be using 1/0 awg. And I haven't taken the positive post off yet to inspect cuz I figured I would wait until doing this. Kinda thought taking care of both at the same time. Thankfully the non-starting issue hasn't happened all week.

 

The 300 amp fuse is a bit large for the alternator. Nissan used a 120 amp and that is fine as the alternator puts out 110 amps. A higher amperage fuse could allow more damage in a short circuit situation before it blows. I would personally stick with a 120 amp fuse.

It is true that length of a wire does make a difference as a longer wire reduces current flow. But I'm thinking that you probably won't add more than 3 feet into the circuit and that should be OK.

 

For anyone researching this problem. Maxima's are prone to grounding issues because the size of ground cables and the location of various attachment points. Intermittent problems, and a number of common faults indicate a possible bad ground. If faults occur during cold or damp conditions and go away when car warms up, makes grounding even more suspect.


My own issues started with P303 code. I also had a rough and high (1000 rpm) idle. Compression was good, so I replaced plug, coil pack, and eventually fuel injector. Intermittent faults still occurred. While researching, I saw many threads on Maxima grounding kits and had an AHA! moment.


I removed the battery and the battery tray to access the ground cable on my 07 Maxima. Both terminals were slightly corroded. I removed the negative cable and observed the all the attachment points were to painted metal surfaces and the bolts had an anodized finish which would not make for good grounding. I cleaned the battery posts and terminals, and took abrasive cloth to the painted metal surfaces. I also added a cheap pre made negative battery cable, 19 inch, from the transmission attachment point to one of the bolts on the coolant crossover pipe to ensure good ground to block and heads.


Happy to report that the intermittent problems I was having went away. Idle went back to 750 rpm and steady. No more missing, and car was noticeably smoother and quieter. Other problems, such as seat adjustment periodically not working and one headlight going out when raining, also solved. Hope this helps someone, I could never find a complete answer in other threads.

 

This does help! I have been struggling with my car intermittently stalling while driving (never for more than a second or two). The alternator and battery are fine, the battery cables are secured well. I had been trying to locate where the ground cable connected on my maxima. Thanks!