People who have energy suspension crossmember....
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People who have energy suspension crossmember bushings i have a question for you.
This is the first time i have installed these bushings. But there is a huge gap as seen in the picture. Is this what you have had happen? I have tightened the factory bolts to the point where the bushings are spreading. And there is still a massive gap. It's so bad that ,it causes the engine to be much closer to the firewall,than it should be. I am going to order the stock ones,to see the difference. |
Originally Posted by krismax
(Post 9172877)
People who have energy suspension crossmember bushings i have a question for you.
This is the first time i have installed these bushings. But there is a huge gap as seen in the picture. Is this what you have had happen? I have tightened the factory bolts to the point where the bushings are spreading. And there is still a massive gap. It's so bad that ,it causes the engine to be much closer to the firewall,than it should be. I am going to order the stock ones,to see the difference. |
most cars have the subframe directly bolted to the body. :0
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Originally Posted by Donkeypunch
(Post 9172959)
most cars have the subframe directly bolted to the body. :0
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oh dang! they seemed like a good idea on paper too. minus the extra cabin vibrations. i have a box sitting around.
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I put a set on my 98 maybe 10 years ago. I replaced the radiator support in '12 and don't remember any issues. I'll be tearing that car apart soon so I can see if they held up all these years.
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Originally Posted by JSutter
(Post 9173043)
I put a set on my 98 maybe 10 years ago. I replaced the radiator support in '12 and don't remember any issues. I'll be tearing that car apart soon so I can see if they held up all these years.
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interesting... i didn't think those fractions would be much of anything, i remember this being a concern with the subframe collars people were doing couple years ago.
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Do not use those garbage ES crossmember bushing. Mine only last for two years. I replaced it with genuine OEM bushing , I felt a big difference because the engine is more stable and pull harder. The reason is you need to torque those 17 mm front and rear bolt between 77fl-lb to 98 ftlbs. I set mine to 86 ft lbs. ES bushing will squeeze out like a marsmallow if you tighten the bolt for proper torque.
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Originally Posted by colt149
(Post 9173277)
Do not use those garbage ES crossmember bushing. Mine only last for two years. I replaced it with genuine OEM bushing , I felt a big difference because the engine is more stable and pull harder. The reason is you need to torque those 17 mm front and rear bolt between 77fl-lb to 98 ftlbs. I set mine to 86 ft lbs. ES bushing will squeeze out like a marsmallow if you tighten the bolt for proper torque.
Wish i knew before i bought.:( The stock ones just came in about $40 shipped from quirk parts on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-OEM-NEW...72.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-2014-N...72.m2749.l2649 |
i ruined my es bushings with my near solid mounts, i replaced all subframe bushings with steel washers and now have light switch like throttle response.
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
(Post 9173146)
interesting... i didn't think those fractions would be much of anything, i remember this being a concern with the subframe collars people were doing couple years ago.
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I have just about every rubber piece ES makes under my car EXCEPT the cross member bushings. I could never get them to seat without squeezing out. I really like ES parts but these are crap. Stock is best for this part.
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
(Post 9173321)
Im using self cut washers (cut like a c so i didnt need to remove the main subframe or the control arms) and it helped alot. my first pair failed because i warped them cutting them. i did it perfect the second time and now no flex or wheel hop.
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
(Post 9173371)
intersting !! and motivating... is it more harsh though? i mean there has to be something, going from bushings to metal on metal.
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
(Post 9173371)
intersting !! and motivating... is it more harsh though? i mean there has to be something, going from bushings to metal on metal.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-200l https://maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/631024-4-wheelhop-washer-mod.html |
that gap should be there since there is a back half to the bushing, it sure has heck doesn't have a hole to go in to and is to think to squish flat.
is madmaxse the only one to go solid on that sub frame piece. i'm guessing the there is enough flex in the rest of the mounts and car to loose that... ...what 3/16ths - 8th inch bap? |
Originally Posted by MadMax SE
(Post 9173388)
This part should have been metal to metal in the first place. i have all 4 of my mounts solid and i barely feel the engine vibe at 237k. when going to solid washers it will send the load shock to the mounts and not the subframe, there are 2 diffrent subframes, one that holds the left and right suspension, and the one that supports the engine/trans. the suspension one is using my c washers and the engine one has stacked regular washers, i will upload pictures soon. im a manual trans btw, auto will have more vibes by nature.
Originally Posted by MadMax SE
(Post 9173389)
Also no where near as harsh as having a bad bushing, it helps with that jerk when you tap the gas. i personly love the response and is my favorite/cheapest mod
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...xima-2000-200l https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...asher-mod.html
Originally Posted by cdoublejj
(Post 9173692)
that gap should be there since there is a back half to the bushing, it sure has heck doesn't have a hole to go in to and is to think to squish flat.
is madmaxse the only one to go solid on that sub frame piece. i'm guessing the there is enough flex in the rest of the mounts and car to loose that... ...what 3/16ths - 8th inch bap? |
Originally Posted by cdoublejj
(Post 9173692)
that gap should be there since there is a back half to the bushing, it sure has heck doesn't have a hole to go in to and is to think to squish flat.
is madmaxse the only one to go solid on that sub frame piece. i'm guessing the there is enough flex in the rest of the mounts and car to loose that... ...what 3/16ths - 8th inch bap? |
I would just get some metal washers and call it a day lol
I had these on my old car for a few years. Not sure if he still sells them. http://www.allsentra.com/viewtopic.php?t=2647 |
Energy suspension bushings are polyurethane, not standard rubber. A much harder, permanent fix. They won't swell distort and break down like regular rubber. So its possible there will be a larger gap because it won't squash. How hard were they to get on?
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Originally Posted by colt149
(Post 9173277)
Do not use those garbage ES crossmember bushing. Mine only last for two years. I replaced it with genuine OEM bushing , I felt a big difference because the engine is more stable and pull harder. The reason is you need to torque those 17 mm front and rear bolt between 77fl-lb to 98 ftlbs. I set mine to 86 ft lbs. ES bushing will squeeze out like a marsmallow if you tighten the bolt for proper torque.
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Originally Posted by rodent_infested_03
(Post 9174530)
Its 77-98 Nm. which is 57-72ft. lbs. Maybe you're talking about something different because my 6k pound Cadillac Escalade has Energy Suspension poly bushings and they do no such thing. Much harder than the ACDelco rubber I took off of it. Almost too hard.
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Yes totally understand that makes sense thanks for letting me know.
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these are trash. the front pieces at the bottom get over squished and seep through the washer and they are an oval type shape to fit obviously but witht the round washer you try and torque to spec and it will keep rotating and squeeze outside of the washer making it hard to torque properly.
i ended up going as tight as i could without it over squeezing it and using loctite on the bolts... also i noticed 0 difference. red lion control arm bushings made a larger difference. gonna replace with oem ones in front |
sounds nice ! makes me wanna get front CA polys, but i heard you barely feel them compared to the work that it was replacing them.
probably same for Rear Trailing Arm bushings on the A32/A33 |
Originally Posted by carsnwomen91
(Post 9175026)
these are trash. the front pieces at the bottom get over squished and seep through the washer and they are an oval type shape to fit obviously but witht the round washer you try and torque to spec and it will keep rotating and squeeze outside of the washer making it hard to torque properly.
i ended up going as tight as i could without it over squeezing it and using loctite on the bolts... also i noticed 0 difference. red lion control arm bushings made a larger difference. gonna replace with oem ones in front |
Originally Posted by Prophecy99
(Post 9175035)
sounds nice ! makes me wanna get front CA polys, but i heard you barely feel them compared to the work that it was replacing them.
probably same for Rear Trailing Arm bushings on the A32/A33 |
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