krismax

iTrader: (15)

well got the brakes fixed finally..now it's a new disaster . Took it for a 70 mile drive. car didn't feel that peppy but anyways .

Had my craftsman scan tool with me. First code popped up early in the drive P0110 is this a air temp sensor or IACV code?
Then at about the 30 mile mark got a P0160,one of my O2's has a disconected wire,it's probably that.

Then at about 60 miles i started getting a terrible ammonia,plastic like, burning in the cabin. Then it was the P0505 code And service engine light was flashing. A few miles later. Car died about 600 feet from home and i coasted in.

Any advice with be great ,i already ordered these.2001 NISSAN MAXIMA 3.0L V6
HITACHIABV0039 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve $ 112.79
HITACHITPS0001 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) $ 49.99
HITACHITMS0003 Air Intake / Charge Temperature Sensor $ 24.79

I am thinking of sending my ECU to here.I havent checked it yet to see how bad the burn is.And i don't even know what caused it . They say replace the IACV and TPS? Does the TPS get set like the 4th gen ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-NISSAN-MAXIMA-ENGINE-CONTROL-COMPUTER-MODULE-REPAIR-ECM-ECU-PCM/281184170159?hash=item4177e1f0af%3Ag%3AKVsAAOSwuzR XfneF&_sacat=0&_nkw=2001+maxima++engine+control+un it+remanufactured+rebuilt&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_Title Desc=0%7C0#vi-ilComp

krismax

iTrader: (15)

As a service to others,even if you bypass your coolant for the IACV. If it had a leak in the past the resistance,will overcome the IACV and ECU over time .As you can see the amount of coolant that leaked into the air chamber is substantial . The person who owned this must have been burning antifreeze over the years.

I should have changed the IACV with a new one.
The plug that goes into the IACV was melted in . I had to break the plastic around the IACV to get it out. I will have to get a male pigtail ,because mine is shot.
Ordered a ECU ,there's no way this one can be repaired.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Maxima...72.m2749.l2649

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Ouch. You have had some hurtles.

How common is this? What is the proper preventative fix?

krismax

iTrader: (15)

Very common, it will happen to all of them over time.Not only does the IACV do it the electronic motor mounts do it also.

And props to maxiiboy for making this PDF
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...A3VWlYQVE/view

Here's a thread on it.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-seconds.html

krismax

iTrader: (15)

picked up this cable for the NDS2. Researched a bit and found many cannot connect because of wrong cable. Used the first off the list they recommended.

https://www.obdinnovations.com/kkl-o...n-datascan-ii/

wellshii19

Man what a pain. Those motor mounts,they were only on the autos correct?

flames101sully

iTrader: (1)

Hope not, and on a note of this. I haven't done the IACV fix but a word of advice for the motor mounts, make sure they stay unplugged. I unplugged the motor mounts some years ago and after the car was in a shop I noticed that buzzing sound from bad mounts after the motor is turned off had returned. Mechanic must have noticed it unplugged and helped.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

This car and IACV has about 230,000 miles on it..like i said i would take it off and take a look.
It took that long for it to get fried .

flames101sully

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I believe they were only for the automatic cars.

At this mileage, i'd rather leave it and hope nothing happens rather than possibly cause a problem by disturbing the working system. If i get another 2000 at some point, then I will definitely do this fix.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

OK picked up everything i need just need to download the NDS2 program.

These are the things i am replacing all OEM parts IAVC ,TPS and air intake sensor all Hitachi . Got a ECU from LKQ says re manufactured ?! don't know what that entails?

Also picked up a pigtail for the IACV in excellent shape (mine was melted).
All the 00-01 i see in the yards have coolant leaking in the IACV...........

User1

Looks good. I think you're in business.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

OK got the TPS on and i used this ,from a nissan manual . Very nice and clear from nissan.
I see many do not know this ,but this is how it is set. Shows other nissans use this too.
I have the 4th gen one and it is the same.

I did it off the car ,on my 01 but i think the 4th gens need to be on the car. Never done a 4th gen one but did a pathy TB 01 with the 01 maxima procedure and it worked perfect.

The beginning is just describing with the TB on the car how to make sure the throttle isn't being held open by anything .
Best way to ensure this is to remove the TB from the car.

http://askatech.com/AskATechLive/for...er.ashx?a=5638

maxiiiboy

.

OK, it does work - my browser was slow in downloading the PDF.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

great u have things figured out, I hope this aint common at all ! i am at 237k here daily driving.

maximatech12

There is a memory re-set for the TPS. It involved hooking an ohms meter up to the two of the 6 pins and twisting the sensor until the no continuity.

User1

Sounds like you're cookin with gas, buddy! Congrats! Funny you just posted the TPS procedure, I was just researching that same/similar procedure for my 5.5 7th gen swap and adding it to the laundry list of procedures to work through when I get my motor installed! Looking forward to your final results.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

welcome to post #12

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

sorry if I didn't search or understand this, but whats the idea behind the coolant bypass for the IACV? is it a performance mod? or practical kinda mod? like upgrading to 6th gen Valve covers?

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

im silly I have a VQ35DE, not seeing any search results for IACV pertaining to the 5.5 gen =)

krismax

iTrader: (15)

It keeps the coolant from leaking into the IACV ,where it is not suppose to be.This is what fried my ECU. 3.5 doesn't have an external IACV.
I think the previous owner fried his ECU. Then had it replaced but he and the one who replaced it wasn't smart enough to fix the problem that fried it.
Too bad he didn't tell me it happen.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i hate that !usually people / mechanics just fix the immediate problem and not going further into fixing why it was caused. sorry but glad you are past it now. is everything back up and running w the new ECU?

like 5th gen rear brake calipers freeze because of the E-Brake lines being clogged or filled w dirt and i had a mechanic replace a caliper for no reason other than it was frozen, the brand new caliper froze the next morning because the reason of the freezing was the clogged e brake line

krismax

iTrader: (15)

Changed the TPS ,intake sensor and IACV.

Finally today it is done the ECU is in, i programed 3 keys with no problem .

The NDS 2 is super nice!!!! Took me about 4-6 minutes to program the keys. NO DEALERSHIP is needed with ECU change. Just wanted to let people know this.

I had a locksmith arguing with me,about the fact he says the vin needs to be programed to the ECU. And he says you shouldn't have changed the ECU...wow really.
So that's all wrong.
The NDS 2 will program no problem. I think the problem people have with the NDS2 is they buy cheap cables. This connected to my laptop instantly.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

really awesome to hear man ! and glad u did it yourself to see thru the bs and misinformation and realize yourself if it works. nice dude

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

User1

Congratulations! Nice work! It is always rewarding to have a project come to fruition successfully. I am looking at performing the same task with NDS2! My 2k3 ECU was also fried, so I picked up a 2k2 ECU through a member here and will be programming a couple of keys as well.

As far as those with questions regarding the interface cable: The cable interface has one job, to convert serial data to USB. This conversion occurs within the FTDI Chipset

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FTDI

There are a million +1 applications as well as huge support for this chipset, along with a million different manufacturers of countless cable types. For our application, one simply needs an OBDII plug type on one end and a USB (2, 3, C, etc.) on the other end with an FTDI chipset in between. There is no need to be concerned with cable manufacturer, cable quality, etc., and in theory, with a little bit of technical savvy one could build his own cable with the relevant plugs and an FTDI board:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-Basic-...-/230820610037

Here are a couple just for fun:

https://advrider.com/index.php?threa...-cable.921377/

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=95037.0

Not trying to hijack your thread, but it is pretty popular right now and I see a lot of threads with questions about this cable and not a lot of clarifying responses. Was hoping the info would be helpful. Again, great work! Let us know how it runs and/or any bugs with the new ECU!

krismax

iTrader: (15)

Cable info post #5 . OBDinnovations . But DO NOT buy the NDS 2 program off them. Get it from the main NDS 2 site. I don't feel like getting into but i will say they wasted days of mine and i am trying to get money back.

User1
Yes as for the cable its not "dumb" I did hook the cable up make sure it's drivers were up to date(they already were) and i set the COM port to #1

NATS program video 1 min 11 seconds that's how fast one key can be done.

OK here is the thread ,i want to give credit .Where i find things. From member Unclejoe
The following cars all use the same "5523" default PIN:

Nissan Altima 2001-2004;
Nissan Maxima 2001-2003;
Nissan Pathfinder 2001-2004;
Nissan Sentra 2000-2005;
Nissan 350Z < 2002;
Nissan X-Terra 2003-2004;
Infinity QX4 2001-2004;
Infinity QX45 2002;
Infinity Q45 2001-2005;
Infinity G20 2000-2002;
Infinity I30 / I35 2001-2005

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the heads up about obd2innovations, ill steer clear of them entirely then. Reason i asked about the cable is because they actually dont have them for sale anymore - it was a wild goose chase trying to find the one they sold that doesnt ship from china and take 3 weeks to get here. As for the PIN thats what I thought i read but just wanted to confirm. Thanks bruh

cdoublejj

i had my IAC aluminum body and the throttle body surfaced so they were as flat as possible for a good seal. so as to prevent another coolant leak.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

That's a great idea but i can't risk it. I completely bypassed the coolant away from there.

I literally didn't add any hose or clamps . I just pulled the too hose side off and put on the return. And threw away other hose. I'll take a picture of it later.

I really do not think the coolant does anything. I have been bypassing the TB's for 20 years . My weather is below zero for days. It takes 10-15 minutes for my car to warm up in that weather and most of the time i am at my destination anyways. I do not warm up my car.

I am glad you replied because it reminds me. The NDS2 has idle relearn. But i did not do it.
Even after all the things i changed the idle is smooth low and beautiful. After a few minutes just sitting it was perfect. 750-800.

I would love to leave the coolant in the Throttle body but Nissan failed and i had to save there failed design for my car. My car has 40k on the engine ,can probably last another 10-12 years. I can't risk loosing these parts again. At one point NONE will be available,anywhere to purchase. It's already nearly impossible to find a 01 ECU . No other year will work,for a 01 5 speed.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

There was no hijacking and i post this stuff to help others . So the more the merrier .
As for how it is running i had a P0110 before this incident and after . I couldn't get rid of the Intake Air temp code .Even though i just put a new Hitachi one on.
I should have know that when you clear the code and it doesn't go off even for a few seconds ...it has to be a short.

Well i looked at the Factory manual EC-173

"Check the following. I Harness connectors E8, F17 I Harness for open or short between ECM and intake air temperature sensor."
Well it was F17 ,i didn't plug it back in after i put everything together. it is one of the two plugs behind the fuse box ,by the driver strut tower.

I peeked in between there, i was so happy. Today was the day to tackle it and after 2 hours researching playing around,it was a easy fix.

Car idles lower low about 650-700rpm, smooth.car would stumble a little after giving it gas now that is gone.

cdoublejj

supposedly the coolant helps warm up the throttle body or something like that. The IAC basically dumps fuel in until it's warmed up? it sucks the 5 th gens especially the 3.0 ECUs don't get any love. you have to wonder what it would really take to program out, disable or bypass all that, or maybe my memory fails me and that's exactly what you coolant bypass does.

User1

Good thing you have a Black Belt in FSM! Nice diagnostic skills, bro. I'm just a grasshopper right now. Hoping to get my Brown Belt at least, by the time my swap is finished.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

Found this from a member on here.Really good PDF read.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...hibHlkRmc/view

MichMaxFan

Nissan got lucky these ecu shorts weren't a recall. It's a shame that they got away with such failure prone issues.

And the motor mount issues..

However, thanks to this site my iacv is bypassed so no coolant going to it. And hopefully it never leaked prior to my bypass. And mounts are disconnected.

Just imagine what people have paid dealers for new iacv and ecu and programming.....makes me sick.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

I agree ...these 2000-01 are gonna be super rare in a few years.

You get a small taste of the problem. If you see ECU repair on e bay. One seller shouldn't have hundreds of these repairs. Even my ECU that i bought from LKQ said re-manufactured by Nissan.

Given some time this is probably 100% kill rate

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Wow man, you've been through hell and back with this car. I can't believe the ECU gets fried so often in 5th gens! So it was only the DEK cars that had coolant going to the IACV? Because I don't think 4th gens have that, and someone mentioned earlier that 3.5s don't either.

Whostheboog

When and if that 5 speed gives the dreaded input shaft bearing failure. You don't want to swap another 5 speed in to go through it again. You will have to rebuild. No big deal right? Wrong... Not only have a lot of people hypothesized that Nissan and their alleged variety of 2 different show sizes being their only options provided to use... You have to worry about gear damages as well. Like our Easter egg 5 speed ecms, transmission internals other than bearings, synchros, and shims are impossible to come by. Unless you wanna buy a used one, open it up, hope for the best, spend at least $3k on par straight cut synchro mesh gearsets (which is the way to go but over kill), rely on the "input shaft repair sleeve" if the gears can be reused, and hope the mechanic you find to do the work is competent in measuring shim tolerances with the sense to use different sizes if needed. I scoured the earth looking foe trans internals and nowhere to be found on display.

cdoublejj

I was talking with a friend. there may be a way to engineer a ...here comes the most incorrect terminology ever, a surge diverter or arrestor of some kind. It may or may not be possible to find out what voltage rang those signals back and forth to the ECU and IAC/TPS operate on and make circuit to dump/divert/filter anything above that. I found and old codger on eBay who i was able to call an chat with and ended up buying the repair service and haven't had any problems since.

Whostheboog

Good sir you need to spread the word about this and list his contact info. This has the potential of going viral on this forum. How can I get a hold of this man? What was the cost. This info is sticky worthy if indeed it has been figured out. This very easily will be the iacv equivalent of an o2 simulator. I admit I'm on the edge of my seat... Please do elaborate on the cars performance. Nice start ups? Do you just block off place the iacv or keep the disconnected one in place? Still bypass the coolant lines is assume?

teejay1786

So all that happens when you have a bad iacv and ECU is rough idle is that it? The only reason I say this is because my car seems to run fine in every situation. It don’t even idle that rough but it tells me my IAC valve is bad. I’ve been driving it like this for roughly 8 years. it doesn’t seem to lack any power or anything I took it to a mechanic shop and asked him if he could charge me any money at all to do any kind of maintenance or preventative maintenance or anything he could see that it needs and he said no. I was gonna go ahead and replace the IAC valve but do I need to replace the ECU to because the car seems fine to me I don’t see any damage or anything on the ECU and it’s the original one