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Interior overhaul and stereo upgrade

5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Interior overhaul and stereo upgrade

Old 01-16-2019, 07:48 AM
  #81  
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Ya, RI is a bit of a drive from TN...lol

I wish I could say the car is "super quiet". Since I haven't driven the car in 7 months, and didn't take any measurements before the sound treatment, I can't honestly say if the sound treatment had any significant effect on the overall cabin noise. It certainly isn't as quiet as a Benz; but that was never my goal.

It may actually help if you or somebody with 5th gen did a side by side test - i.e., rode in a non-sound treated Max and then took a ride in mine and see if there is a difference. We could do a subjective "ear" test, and take some measurements as well. That would be a fun project.
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by YoungMike85 View Post
Ya, RI is a bit of a drive from TN...lol

I wish I could say the car is "super quiet". Since I haven't driven the car in 7 months, and didn't take any measurements before the sound treatment, I can't honestly say if the sound treatment had any significant effect on the overall cabin noise. It certainly isn't as quiet as a Benz; but that was never my goal.

It may actually help if you or somebody with 5th gen did a side by side test - i.e., rode in a non-sound treated Max and then took a ride in mine and see if there is a difference. We could do a subjective "ear" test, and take some measurements as well. That would be a fun project.
i think thats the only way youll be able to fully appreciate your efforts. Im sure theres a ton of noise you cancelled out that you are simply not aware of lol.

Just scrolled through the thread again (and again, holy crap), did you happen to sound deaden anything near the firewall/footwell sides? Basically the areas closest to the front wheels - this is supposedly where most roadnoise originates. Pretty sure the dash has to come out to get back there. If you missed that section theres a good possibility youll get a big reduction in noise if you go back and hit that area up.

Last edited by Slamrod; 01-16-2019 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:07 PM
  #83  
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lol...holy crap is right. I may never do a project like that again.

And no, I did not do any sound treatment on the firewall; as you are correct - the whole dash would have to be removed. I took as much of the dash apart as I was comfortable doing, partly because I was also interested in removing the AC evaporator. For whatever reason, the dash design for the 5.5 gen is more complicated than the 5th gen. There's a video on youtube where an org member, boredmder, explains how to access the evaporator on a 5th gen, says it works for all 5th gens, then proceeds to show how it all un-hooks. In 5.5 gen, it's totally different. Even to get to the evap, I'd have to take the dash off. And running under the dash and above the evap is the crossmember - the steel pipe that protects you in a front impact - which is welded to the frame and the dash is secured tightly to that. So, I poked and prodded, but to me, it just looked like waaaay more work than it was worth. I mean, these cars are only ever going to get so quiet, why do all that work just to bring down cabin noise by a dB or two? If you want a cabin as quiet as a Benz...buy a Benz lol. Then you're talking about double pane glass and a much heavier chassis - that's when you start noticing a big difference.

I think you hit the nail on the head - doing a side by side, "A/B" comparison, would be a great way to appreciate my efforts!
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:20 PM
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Interesting, i never pulled the dash on this car lol, i simply assumed it would be similar to the 4th gens ive dealt with which was a small pita.

One other thing came to mind when i was driving today - did you happen to do anything for the windows? Apparently most 5.5gens came defective from the factory and have lots of wind noise from the windows, particularly the rears. Nissan even put out a TSB for it, theres more info buried in the stickies somewhere.

Basically you get some sort of foam strip and jam it up in the top between the window and the frame and that fixes it, cheap and easy fix. Figured id mention it in case you didnt have it done already, its supposed to be a night and day fix.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:27 PM
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Yes, I did check out the rear windows. I'm the 3rd owner of this car, and from what I can tell, the rear window had already been fixed. I'm guessing previous owners took it in for the TSB. I'd also read about it here, and I did go back and add some additional weather stripping which did help kill that rear window whistle.
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Old 01-17-2019, 06:15 AM
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My friend this will be the closest a 5.5Gen will ever get to being as quiet as a Benz lol Top notch work !
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:54 AM
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Thanks guys. If any of y'all are ever in the Nashville, TN area, feel free to shoot me a PM and swing by to see her.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:29 PM
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Any roof rattles or roof flex with the bass?
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:30 AM
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No rattles, and to my knowledge, it's not flexing from the bass. I'd imagine it would take a lot more power than what I've got to make anything flex, lol
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:08 PM
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I'll bet it sounds great!
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by YoungMike85 View Post

And now for the best part - after doing all that work, the ASWC isn't working. Yay! It powers on and goes through the setup procedure as normal, but then it gives the slow red/green flashing; indicating the ASWC cannot detect the vehicle. Not sure where I went wrong, but if it means wires are mixed up, I probably won't go through the process of moving the pins around again. I'll just cut and splice - I'm over it.

More to come!
I just installed the ASWC-1 on my car about a month ago, and I had the same headache with the red/green flashing. I called Metra and they told me to do the following:
-Don't share the same ground as the headunit
-Keep the 3.5mm jack unplugged while going through the setup process.
I grounded the unit elsewhere, left the 3.5mm unplugged (but not touching anything metal), setup the box, shut everything off, then plugged the 3.5mm jack in. Works perfectly.

Regarding the molex plug and the speaker wire in the doors, is the spot for the speaker wire exactly in the same location on all 4 doors? I only plan on upgrading my front speakers but wanted to run new wire to the doors.
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:59 AM
  #92  
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Dude that's awesome! Thanks for that - I'll test it out this weekend.

The speaker pins were in similar positions for the front plugs, but the driver side was more difficult because it had more pins in use than the passenger. For whatever reason, my rear plugs were not in the pillar, so I was able to run the wire through the rubber cover without drilling through the Molex plug.

Funny thing - I did all the work to replace the rears, run new wire; and realized I didn't need them at all...lol
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:08 PM
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Yeah I picked up a set of Focals 165as for the front and rear for cheap (hookup from Mexico), decided against throwing them in the rear, so I'm going to put them in my 4runner instead.
On a separate note, how hard was it to install the new carpet? I figured as I'm having to run new cables to each of the front doors, and mount an audiocontrol EQQ under the passenger seat, I might as well pull out the factory beige carpet that's beat to all hell. Tempted to throw black carpet in, but I don't know how I feel about two tone.

Btw, nice build and write up!
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:16 PM
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also, what install kit did you use for the front speakers? It looks really nice.
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Old 02-16-2019, 08:33 PM
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Thanks man.

Focals are nice for sure; and if I had the hookup like that - it would have been an easy choice! But I picked up the Kappa's BNIB on Craigslist for $60...I was super happy about that deal.

Not sure what kit you mean, but I didn't use any kit for the speakers. I used the factory ring mounts, and just made sure to seal it well with gasket tape in between the speakers and the rings, and I used the foam weatherstripping that came with the speakers for outside the speakers. The front doors are 6.5" and the rears are 5.25".

Carpet was a *****. Get it from Rock Auto, and go with cutpile; instead of essex. Essex is ultra plush, but ultra thick. Made for a much harder install. If I were to do it again, I'd pick cutpile.
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:35 PM
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Right back at you!

You make a good point, if one is to replace all the factory Bose stuff, might as well go all out. I have no intention on amplifying the rear speakers, so throwing a set of cheap speakers in the rear and powering it off of my alpine hu might be better.

I was speaking to the factory ring mounts, didn't know they worked with aftermarket speakers. I just picked up a set of 6.5" baffles for the front, also going to throw some felt at them to isolate the speakers from the door, along with some sound deadner like you did. Thanks for the recommendation on the carpet, all the abuse my BIL did a number on the factory carpet, I'll take a look at the cutpile.
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Old 02-17-2019, 06:35 PM
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Ditto on the Bose swap. I know people have found components that are close replacements for the OEM Bose, and it's definitely a good route to go if you don't want to completely overhaul the system like I did. But I don't use the Max as a daily driver, so I was able to take my time, taking it down to the bare metal and re-doing it exactly how I wanted it.

Baffles are ok, but I doubt you'll need them. I almost went with something similar, called "boom mats", but ultimately decided against it for two reasons - 1. The factory mounts have a semi baffle built into them - they do a good job protecting the speaker from the elements and 2. if you seal the inner door skin like I did, you'll be really happy with the mid-bass response and you won't even miss the baffles. Save yourself $20 and get some extra CLD instead. Cover every single hole that you can see, treat it like a subwoofer enclosure, and you're trying to seal the part of the door where the back of the speaker sits. I cannot tell you how great the mid-bass is. I really don't even need the sub, because the front speakers sound so good!

And about the rears - I was leaning heavily toward powering them with the head unit, but ultimately never even hooked them up. Again - you won't even notice they're gone. Instead, I setup a 3 way active crossover, with the tweeters on channels 1 & 2, the front door speakers on ch's 3 & 4, and the sub on ch 5. I've got crossovers set on the headunit and amp to protect the tweeters. It doesn't sound bad, considering most this "processing" is being done from my JVC headunit. Eventually, I'll shell out the $150 and get the DSP 408 from Parts Express to really open up the sound.

Good luck!

Last edited by YoungMike85; 02-17-2019 at 06:39 PM.
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