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I read that Cali law says I need to get the catalyst parts installed in an actual shop or the stealership? How true is this statement?
That statement may be correct, but ..... If you install it yourself, and the code goes away, then you pass your inspection (as the inspection only checks for codes and incomplete monitors).
And who would know the difference ?
However, you may want to check that Rockauto will actually ship these parts to an individual like you or me (i.e., not a dealer or certified mechanic).
That statement may be correct, but ..... If you install it yourself, and the code goes away, then you pass your inspection (as the inspection only checks for codes and incomplete monitors).
And who would know the difference ?
However, you may want to check that Rockauto will actually ship these parts to an individual like you or me (i.e., not a dealer or certified mechanic).
I'll contact rock auto and get back what the response is.
I have done the drive cycle twice. And now my catalyst says Complete for Emissions Readiness.
But during the drive cycle the SES light came on and the Pending Fault code P0420 is now showing as Current Fault Code thus triggering the SES light to come on.
Is this just a faulty O2 Sensor for bank 1? If so, I'd be willing to get the part and replace it but just want to make sure, I don't like to assume then find out later that the part was not the problem. Anyone gone thru this before?
don'
Is this just a faulty O2 Sensor for bank 1? If so, I'd be willing to get the part and replace it but just want to make sure, I don't like to assume then find out later that the part was not the problem. Anyone gone thru this before?
Yes, I did. I went through the same thing 2 yrs ago.
Try to replace just the O2 sensor, but chances are it's your precat.
I am also in the Bay area. I was forced to replace both of my precats; expensive, but my car drives much better now. And I won't have to do this ever again.
Yes, I did. I went through the same thing 2 yrs ago.
Try to replace just the O2 sensor, but chances are it's your precat.
I am also in the Bay area. I was forced to replace both of my precats; expensive, but my car drives much better now. And I won't have to do this ever again.
What part/site did you get for the bank 1 cat? The long looking one.
since they just plug in the obd and check for codes, no actual smog tests, why not get defoulers to get rid of the code?
i've had mine that that for like 7 years. works good. mine have never been check. just a quick look over under the engine bay.
my precats are dead but not broken. i checked.
What part/site did you get for the bank 1 cat? The long looking one.
The picture in post #10 shows Bank1 precat highlighted in yellow.
My mechanic refused to do any gutting, so I just replaced the precat. Expensive.
You can try what Donkeypunch suggests - not sure whether you can still get defoulers, but check around.
since they just plug in the obd and check for codes, no actual smog tests, why not get defoulers to get rid of the code?
i've had mine that that for like 7 years. works good. mine have never been check. just a quick look over under the engine bay.
my precats are dead but not broken. i checked.
In Cali they do an inspection/visual test to see if you did any mods. Emission laws might get worse from new laws coming down the pipeline.
The picture in post #10 shows Bank1 precat highlighted in yellow.
My mechanic refused to do any gutting, so I just replaced the precat. Expensive.
You can try what Donkeypunch suggests - not sure whether you can still get defoulers, but check around.
Bosch 13374 - B1S2 white wire Down Stream Rear $49.00
Bosch 15955 - B2S1 blue wire Up Stream Front $36.95
Bosch 13348 - B1S1 black wire Down Stream Front $64.78
Bosch 13350 - B2S2 red wire Up Stream Rear $64.77
I'm 99% sure these are accurate. It's frustrating because the comments on amazon are not all correct. I wanted to buy both rear sensors but 15955 is for the blue wire, it's the shortest wire since its closest to any of the sensors.
Bosch 13374 - B1S2 white wire Down Stream Rear $49.00
Bosch 15955 - B2S1 blue wire Up Stream Front $36.95
Bosch 13348 - B1S1 black wire Down Stream Front $64.78
Bosch 13350 - B2S2 red wire Up Stream Rear $64.77
I'm 99% sure these are accurate. It's frustrating because the comments on amazon are not all correct. I wanted to buy both rear sensors but 15955 is for the blue wire, it's the shortest wire since its closest to any of the sensors.
Not a single one of those plugs looks anything like any of my '03 plugs. You're basing your information off of Amazon.com reviews?
I do it a little differently. Instead of relying on hearsay from highly questionable Amazon reviews, I start with OEM part numbers from nissanpartsdeal.com then cross-reference with other sources. This is the only research method I will use.
Bosch 13374 - B1S2 white wire Down Stream Rear $49.00
Bosch 15955 - B2S1 blue wire Up Stream Front $36.95
Bosch 13348 - B1S1 black wire Down Stream Front $64.78
Bosch 13350 - B2S2 red wire Up Stream Rear $64.77
I'm 99% sure these are accurate. It's frustrating because the comments on amazon are not all correct. I wanted to buy both rear sensors but 15955 is for the blue wire, it's the shortest wire since its closest to any of the sensors.
Thanks gonna order both upstream sensors not worried about the downstream unless they throw a code.
Finally got the CAT installed. Had to send to a shop since the bolts were way too rusted on which is expected for an 18 y/o car. Eastern CAT direct fit cleared my CEL and did 1 drive cycle to get the CAT ready. Didn't even have to change the 02 sensors. Passed smog as well
Bank 1 is firewall side.
Bank 2 is the radiator side.
P0420 is the bank 1 firewall side pre-cat code. The firewall side fails first around 100k miles give or take due to overheating from the lack of airflow behind the engine.
In this day and age the best bang for the buck is gutting and installing a sim if you cannot get away with a defouler.
...... The firewall side fails first around 100k miles give or take due to overheating from the lack of airflow behind the engine. .....
Just a nit-pick: The B1/firewall precat is actually underneath the engine. This means it has as much - or perhaps more - cooling than the B2 precat which is just behind the radiator.
another nit pick, in my opinion it's not a thing where they fail at a certain time.....i wish there was sense to when or why they fail, i feel the more you beat on a car the more heat you will put on the cat material.
i gutted my cats and they were 100% yes 100% intact at 168k miles...so ....yea
another nit pick, in my opinion it's not a thing where they fail at a certain time.....i wish there was sense to when or why they fail, i feel the more you beat on a car the more heat you will put on the cat material.
i gutted my cats and they were 100% yes 100% intact at 168k miles...so ....yea
Ok, grandma, we get it. Now, get to your dialysis appointment. XD
Gutted some with 95k and not driven hard...front was chipping away.
