Ok, firstly this is not about a Maxima bit here me out! I own a Nissan Elgrand (Japense import to the UK). It uses a VQ35DE engine same as the one used in a Maxima. I've had no joy getting help from the Elgrand community so I'm trying my luck here. I hope that's ok.


P1145 code was thrown up by my OBD scanner about a year ago. I bought a pair of sensors and had the left hand side one fitted by a local garage. After resetting and deleting the codes, the problem came straight back.
The next logical step was to replace the right hand sensor. Unfortunately left hand side sensor which came as part of the pear I bought had a totally different connector to the one originally fitted to my engine. On the one I bought the connector was built onto the chassis of the valve itself, the original one has a lead coming off off the valve with the connector on the end of the lead.

I decided to put the old connector on the new valves and fit it. Reset the codes and yes, you guessed it. It came straight back. Tried reversing the leads on the new sensor in case it was polarity sensitive, still no joy.

I decided to unplug the left-hand sensor to see if that threw up a different code, it didn't. I tried unplugging both sensors, same result. Same code.
I'm at a complete loss now. Not sure what to do next. From Reading on the forums it would seem as though so when it comes to to sensors and Nissans, they can often throw up the wrong code. So it might not even be BV intake timing sensors that are at fault. I still can't understand why having them both disconnected wouldn't throw up to codes though?

I was advised that the next thing to check would be the crank position sensor. I bought one and located it on the bottom of the bell housing but when I disconnect it it was completely different to the one I'd bought.

I want to go camping in the van at the end of July but but I don't want to drive it with the engine management light on. Really fed up now, got no idea where to go with it from here.

Any help would be really appreciated.

 

You'd need to be sure that you're installing sensors with the appropriate part numbers. Again, it is always advisable that the sensors are Nissan's oem. What's the year of your Elgrand? If you sent a PM of your VIN, I should be able to identify the exact part numbers of the sensors.


Edit. Since this is coming out on the 5th Gen forum, I assume your Elgrand will be between 2002 and 2004. If so, then your VQ35 shares the same platform with the Pathfinder and not the Maxima. Your vehicle has a pair of VTC sensors. a camshaft sensor, and a crankshaft sensor. You've correctly identified the location of the crankshaft sensor, one of the VTC, but confused the other VTC with the camshaft sensor. Here are the part numbers:
VTC sensor: 23731-2Y523 (replaced by 23731-2Y52A or 23731-2Y52E)
Camshaft sensor: 23731-2Y510.
Crankshaft sensor: 23731-31U11
You could google these numbers to match the pictures with yours.
Good luck.

 

Hi, Costee.

My Elgrand is a series one (E50), and was first registered in Japan in 2000.

Whats really confusing me is that I get the same error code relating to bank 2 Intake timing sensor regardless of whether I have the sensors plugged in or both completely disconnected. It makes no difference. I am resetting the codes after each test. I have found that If I replace the left side sensor, I still get P1145. I can have both unplugged, same result. Both or either of the 2 plugged in, still the same.
Surely as the code specifically states 'bank 2' *eft), we'd expect a separate error code if I unplugged bank 1 (right)? It doesn't make sense to me.
Because I get nothing back whether bank 1 is connected or not, I have no idea if the sensor is actually working. I am just running the engine for a couple of minutes each time, perhaps it takes more drive cycles or a longer run period to throw a code?

Would it be worth disconnecting bank 1 and taking it for a long(ish) drive and then running the scanner again to see if its showing a code for bank 1? That way Id know if the new sensor was working when I plug it in (providing the code stays away after a reset...)

So these are the pair which I bought first. The Left side one is currently fitted. It didn't reset the code.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164206661978

I figured I would try the right side one (seen as I had it) but realised that the connector was different to mine.

https://ibb.co/XS5JH0Q

Which led me to buy this one....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113974950849

This one has a pair of wires coming out of it and a plug on the end like my original one, however the plug is different.

https://ibb.co/zbQ82QB

So, I decided to chop the plug off my old, original one and wire it onto the new one (which I have now fitted to the engine). The issue here potentially is that there are no polarity markings on either the new or old sensor so I've had to guess. I've tried both ways around, either way it makes no difference to the P1145 code. I'm sure when I first started trying to diagnose this fault, unplugging bank 1 give a separate code. This is somewhat hazy though and I could be wrong on that as it was a year ago.

As mentioned, I can unplug both or either of bank 1 or 2 VVT sensors but I still get the same code regardless. I'm wondering now If I should put the original, factory bank 1 sensor back on as in all likelihood, there is probably nothing wrong with it. Only issue here is that I do not have the original gasket so would have to try and use the new gasket which has already been used with the new sensor.... I'm not sure if that would still provide a good mating surface or not after being used with another valve? I don;t see why not but its not something I've ever had to do before so I don't know for sure....

Ordered an oil filter which arrived today. I intend to do another oil change this week. Other than that, no idea what to do next!

 

I'm afraid you've made things somewhat complicated. You also have the wrong parts. You seem to be confusing the solenoid for the sensor. My advice is that you return all the components back to their original locations and connection. Then apply the Nissan sensors with the appropriate part numbers as follows:
The 2 VTC sensors (although also termed crankshaft sensors: 23731-2Y52A (or 2Y522; 2Y523; 2Y524)
Please google the part numbers, you're likely to come up with appropriate diagrams locating the locations of the parts.

 

Thanks again for your help. I still don't understand why why having the solenoids disconnected doesn't throw up new error codes though. Surely as soon as I disconnected the bank once solenoids it should have thrown up a separate error codes whether the solenoids are at fault or not?

 

Reverse everything you did, take Costee's advice and replace both cam sensors with part #'s in his post #4.

In the meantime, while you're at it, and since you are a longitudinal engine configuration vs our transverse and they are both easily accessible, you could remove the IVT solenoids, pull them apart, clean them out really good with Brakleen or some cleaner, bench test them with a 12v source to verify function, put them back together and re-install them.

 

Thanks very much for your reply. Much appreciated.

Just to be clear, when we are talking about the ivt solenoids, we are referring to these?

https://ibb.co/XS5JH0Q
Do you happen to know whether these are polarity sensitive? The issue I have is that the left side solenoid had to be replaced by the garage as it is extremely difficult to get at in the elgrands due to all the air conditioning pipes and equipment which run over the top of it. So that's what I was going to have to stay in situ I think.
The right side solenoid is much more accessible so I could easily test this one on a bench. I no longer have the original left side solenoid but I do have the original right side solenoid. I chopped the plug off it and put it on the new you right side solenoid which is currently attached to the engine. Providing it's not allow 80 sensitive it shouldn't be an issue.

I will order the senses and get them changed as soon as possible

 

Yes, those are the solenoids. Your code is for faulty sensors, however. My suggestion to pull, clean, and bench test the solenoids was for good practice, as those often fail due to gummed up passageways, dirty oil, etc.. Everything is polarity sensitive. Stick with the original configuration (wiring, etc.), you never know what is ground switched or positive switched.

If the solenoids are fine, then you're done there. Now just replace the cam sensor for each bank, don't clear the code, drive a few cycles and let the ECU clear the code. I think your P1145 code is the same as our Maxima P0011 and P0021 codes, which address the same system in your Elgrand VQ. I can post our factory service manual section which addresses these codes if you want.

 

Thanks again user1. I will refit the original right-hand solenoid after testing with a 12-volt supply. Is there anyway I can figure out which cable on the old solenoid is positive and which is negative? The the wires have no polarity markings on them whatsoever.
As I've cut the plug off I'll need to figure this out first. Perhaps I could open the solenoid and have a look inside? I've already tried doing a continuity test between each of the wires and the metal case/ chassis of the solenoid what's that doesn't give anything away.

Cheers

 

This is our 2002 Maxima FSM schematic. The striped, Red and Yellow is positive, the solid Red is negative. So I would presume that whatever wire is solid for either solenoid is your ground.

 

Thanks again. Annoyingly, the right side solenoid just has 2 solid black wires (both the original and aftermarket one). The Left side one has a diffrent colours but not he right side for some reason. Both the female and male plug are intact so its the polarity of the wires on the solenoid itself I need to figure out some how. Any suggestions for this?

Thanks

 

Sure, here ya go

 

You should have battery voltage when performing this test.

 

Grab a copy of the "Engine Control" section from the 2002 Maxima and search the pdf for P0011 to reference the info I'm posting.

https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-info/f...e-manuals-fsm/

 

Thanks again! What Im trying to find out thought is which of the 2 wires on the solenoid itself is Live and which is ground. I have 2 solenoids, both with the plugs cut off and no way of knowing which wire is which as the wires are just black on both of them. So I need some way to find out which is live on the solenoid itself....

 

Positive voltage is terminal #2 in the image in post #12. So I would use that as the standard for orientation. The box thingy on top of the plug in the image is the clip.

 

Can't thank you both enough for taking the time to help. Will order the sensors and get them fitted . I'll let you know how it turns out!

Thanks 😊👍

 

Guess what.... No more fault code 😊. Replaced the left side sensor and I cleared straight away. Thanks again for all the help. Can't believe I spent so long trying to fix the wrong problem! Just need to figure out what to do about the VVT solenoid that I cut the plug off now. Don't want to buy a new one, the one I have (my original one) works with 12v DC applied. Just need to hope I get the polarity correct following the diagrams posted above. I have a spare gasket so I'm gonna crimp the plug back in and then refit it. Thanks again!

 

Nice. Bank 1 is on the right-hand side, Bank 2 on the left. That information might come in handy subsequently. Actually, you didn't spend so long trying to fix the wrong problem, you were creating another. Lol

 

Just when I thought it was over.....

Another code. P1135 in/Tim cont b2
​​​​​

 

This could sometimes be complicated to resolve. First, make sure that you have clean engine oil inappropriate measurements. If this does not resolve the issue the culprit could be any of these in the following order: the crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, and the solenoid valve.

 

Just grab a couple O2 sensors on ebay and replace the pair. Probably not even that hard to get to with yours.

 

Thanks again for your input, Costee. The oil was changed by myself when I bought the van 2 years ago. I've done less than 10k miles since but I took your advice and did another oil and filter change this morning. I reset the code with my OBD scanner before I drove the 7ish miles to pick up the oil. I checked again when I got to the store, the code was still gone. Did the oil change when I got home and went for a little drive. Still no code. I've just Driven about 120 miles, checked again and still good. Strange one. Old oil looked fairly clean as well but I was planning to change it anyway as better to be safe then sorry....

Will keep an eye in it and see how it goes. The main thing is it's driving absolutely fine. No loss of power or rough idling or any of that stuff.

 

Yes, let's hope the issue is resolved. Generally speaking, however, I'll be scared to keep my oil unchanged after eight months, despite the fact that I don't do much driving too. I don't do more than 5k miles a year either. The manufacturer rule is to have an oil change either in three months or after 3-5k miles. Maybe excessive, but I try not to go beyond the rule excessively either.

 

Right, here's where I'm up to. I switched off the code off, drove to the store to buy some oil. That was about a 15 mile trip. Checked with the OBD scanner again whilst I was at the store, still no code. Drove home, changed the oil, took it for a little drive (20 miles ish), still no code. Went camping for the weekend to Keswick UK which was about a160 mile round trip. Checked it when I got there, still no code. Checked it when I returned home, still no code.
Did a short trip to the shops last night, check again and the p1135 code has come back.

So we now have fresh oil, left side cam sensor replaced (which cleared the old code straight away), and absolutely fresh soil right up to the appropriate level.

So, I think the next step would be the crankshaft sensor. Think we are agreed on that? After that, maybe by the right hand side cam sensor?

Thanks for your ongoing help with this, Costee.

The good news is that the van is running absolutely sweet. If you have any other suggestions or input I would be grateful.

Cheers.

 

I'm with you so far. I believe you replaced with oem sensors. Please always post the part numbers of the sensors bought so I can confirm.

 

I only bought 1, I replaced the left side. This is the exact one I bought: https://www.autojapspares.com/index....NSOR&results=2

 

I have the box here, brand is 'Walker', just says "235-1149" on the box. Here is the same one on Amazon with more information than the site I bough it from.


says:

"

• Original Equipment (OE) Number: 237312Y52A, 237312Y522, 237312Y523, 237312Y524"

I don't doubt the people I bought it from, they're the go to people for these Vehicles in the UK. I'm confident its right.

 

It's aftermarket but it's fine. I'm running an Autozone crank sensor for 30k now with no issues. Couldn't wait for oem. Generally try to keep with OEM for sensors though.

 

When I say left side, I am talking about the left side when sat in the car. Its this cam sensor which I changed. It was the solenoid on the same side which was replaced by the garage.

 

That's correct, driver side = Left side = Bank 2

 

Left side is not driver side in his vehicle.

 

Aha, that's right! Forgot they drive on the wrong side of the road AND the wrong side of the car over there.

 

I'm afraid it seems you have the wrong part again. This is, in fact, the part number for the VTC sensor you changed earlier. The part numbers for the camshaft sensors for your vehicle are:
23731-2Y510
23731-4W000
I can't say for certain their respective banks. Again, I'd suggest you google and you might come up with their respective locations.
I think this is your best reference site.
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genu...=APWE50-003727
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genu...=APWE50-003727

 

The VTC is what I meant. That's the only sensor I've changed up to now.

 

Ok. Check out the site. That's your vehicle. Your vehicle has two identical VTC sensors (misleadingly called crankshaft sensors); 2 camshaft sensors, and a single crankshaft sensor. With this information, you can now refer to my #21 above.

 

I think Im gonna replace the crank sensor next, then if that doesn't work the other VTC. Struggling to find a crank sensor for sale in the UK. Autojap spares only have one listed for the E51, I have emailed them to see if they can source it.

 

Why not try out the site, Partsouq. They sell oem.

 

Right, looking on partsouq, the 'crankshaft position sensor' 2373131U11 (located on the front/bottom of the engine) is available.

I had previously thought that what is shown as 237314W000 (located on the bell hosing) was the crankshaft position sensor!

Just to be certain.... it's 2373131U11 that you recommend replacing next?

Thanks

 

Yes.