anyone have any tips? I have a JWT flywheel and I'm not sure if I should try using the starter trick to remove the bolt.

 

Impact wrench is your best friend. That is what I used to get mine off.

 

what's the best way to keep the crank from turning?

 

If starter trick doesn't work, and you're a bum without an impact, then you'll have to remove starter, jam a big tool like a pry bar in the teeth, have someone hold it while you lay on the ground and kick the breaker bar.
Also better have been lubing it for a day.

 

If you are using an impact wrench, you won’t need to hold the crank pulley with much force to keep it from turning. The impact wrench vibrates while it turns to loosen the bolt. If you are looking for something to hold it, a rubber strap wrench is suffice.

https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber...-pc-69373.html

if you are planning on working on your car, invest in an impact wrench. Once you tried it, you realize how you ever survived without one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/85-amp...tch-64120.html

The starter method is tricky. If not done properly, you could end up damaging your car. So one last plug for an impact wrench. For < $100, it will save you a lot of time and headaches not only for this project, but for many future projects. I would get one just to be able to take all 5 wheel bolts off in less than 15 seconds. They come off smooth as butter even with the wheel off the ground.

 

Have someone hold the brakes and put the transmission in gear. Then use a breaker bar.

 

I have an impact gun, I was just worried about breaking teeth on the JWT flywheel using it to keep the crank from turning or cranking it with the starter to break the bolt loose.

 

HOLY $H!T that is a powerful impact gun for $89.99. I over paid for my Kobalt electric impact that claims to have 350 ft lbs...

 

I had the same fear when I had to remove my crank bolt. So I never went that route messing with flywheel teeth. You may want to spray some PB Blaster on it and wait a few hours for it to work. I did that and my bolt came off after giving it a few wacks with the impact wrench.

 

when I had my CRX I just jammed a small punch or chisel into the flywheel (ACT). the bolt had been removed before by the previous owner so it wasn't as tight as how this is on the Maxima which I'm sure has never been taken off. I think the D16 crank pulley was only 120 ft-lbs

 

All you need is a strong breaker bar and the appropriate size impact socket. Install on crank pulley with about six inches from end of breaker bar to ground. Blip the ignition key for a split second. If it doesn't work and it pops off, try a few times. Before I got an impact gun, this is the method I used numerous times and it worked every time.

Make sure you have the breaker bar pointed in the right direction so it hits the ground and not the other way around!

 

this post is about avoiding that so I don't break a tooth on the JWT flywheel, I'm paranoid about that.

 

I read all your posts and your concern for the FW. My advice has no interaction with the FW.

 

the starter turns the flywheel, I don't want the starter to break a tooth on the aluminum flywheel wheel it cranks the engine.

 

I get that. Please explain how placing a socket on the crank pulley bolt they way I described has any interaction with the starter or the FW teeth. The whole point of this thread is to remove the crank pulley bolt, right? My method explains one way to do it. Somehow, we are not seeing eye to eye.

 

if i blip the ignition with the breaker bar and socket on the pulley bolt the starter will engage and could damage a tooth on the aluminum flywheel.

 

The teeth are steel, though.

Just buy a big boy 1/2 electric impact. Yellow, Red, Green, who cares if the price is right (with big battery, it makes a tq difference).

 

thanks for clearing that up, I forgot what the teeth was made of and I couldn't tell from my pics..

 

Yeah, they wouldn't last long if it weren't a steel ring LOL

 

it did the trick, that bolt broke loose like nothing. I hooked a wire to the starter wire near the battery to have better control over it.

 

No rust on it.

 

no rust at all, I live in central Florida and I'm guessing this car probably got traded in by someone local. body has no rust but I can tell one of the fenders had bondo work done and the car came with depo lights.

 

*lives in rust belt* You can go to hell

 

I'm originally from Boston and I couldn't go back to dealing with snow. I can actually ride my motorcycle all year round out here

 

Love my Florida cars. Nice you got to practice the starter trick. Won't need it ever again on this car though.

 

definitely, I plan on doing the 7th gen swap next year.

 

We're in 8th gen now bro! Start looking on eBay to get a handle on the market. It's doing crazy things right now. I've been looking for a Mercedes M113k motor for another project of mine for the last year. They've tripled in price. Used to be able to find them for a couple/few grand. Nothing under $6k if you can even find one.

 

I figured I would just get a 7th gen engine since they seem to be more common and have gotten them priced out locally for as low as $800. but $6,000 for a Mercedes engine dayum, I would pass on that, I only paid $4,500 for my low mileage 08 CBR1000RR. cheapest way to go fast without breaking the bank

 

Nice liter bike. Let us know how the new pulley works out.

 

thanks. so far so good with the pulley. I used orange Loctite on the crank bolt just to be safe. the pulley is way lighter than stock. the recommended belts were a bit of a tight fit but I got them on. not a bad mod for the cost of the pulley and belts. i feel a bit more torque on the low end which helps with stop and go and some gains up top. i'm going to check alternator output tomorrow , it just crossed my mind.....

 

Any vibration increase?

 

between the JWT flywheel and the pulley, the engine still feels pretty smooth. right now I'm on new stock mounts until i have a chance to redo my lowers that have worn out E.S. bushings. they sent me a free replacement set, they come with lifetime warranty.

 

Good, because I just bought all ES everything for my front end. About to install it all on my next day off.

 

I think this time I'll be getting my own press instead of taking the front and rear mounts to a shop to have them pressed in..

 

I have a Harbor Freight press. It's on it's second bottle jack, first one leaked externally. The jack it's on now is leaking internally and leaks gradually over time. It's been useful though. Going to throw the HF jack in the garbage and replace it with a JET unit I picked up.

I'm looking for MT mounts as we speak. I have a WTB listing up in the For Sale/Wanted section but I doubt I'll get a response. Luckily I found out that MT and AT mounts have different ID's and canceled an eBay order I made for AT mounts. The ES website listing is a little confusing, stating the bushings will fit AT mounts and just not be electronic, but then saw here on the forum somewhere as well as in the reviews on the ES bushing page that MT mounts are necessary. I want OEM mounts, I don't care how old they are, because aftermarket mounts don't fit for ****.

 

the ones i got from Rock Auto to use until I redo my pair with the worn E.S. bushings fit fine, Anchor part numbers are 9532 for front and 8866 for rear, only $20 and some change each. I've had good luck with rock auto except for the radiator fan assembly in which I just used the motors and fan blades that came with it and tossed out the shroud that didn't fit my radiator.

 

If you think the Anchor mounts are a good quality then I'll grab those. I have WESTAR EM8866 and EM8865 mounts in my Rockauto cart but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Was really hoping to find old OEM I could gut out but the three local LKQ yards don't have any MT 5th gens and I can't find anything on eBay. Really not sure I have a choice at this point. All four motor mounts in my car right now are OEM brand new when I did the engine swap two years ago and they are great, but I want to try the ES bushings.

 

the E.S. bushings usually last me 3 years. i think the fact that the bushing is so large is its weakness. I think a metal press in sleeve to reduce the amount of urethane needed would be a stronger longer lasting mount. my worn out E.S. mount has a good amount of stretch in the hole where the bolt sleeve goes through.

 

I retained all 7th gen accessories with my swap. In order for this to be possible, I had to form a small depression (with a 5lb sledge hammer) in the frame spar to clear the power steering pulley. Eventually, my mounts will begin to wear, and engine rocking will occur. I cannot afford this as there is only about 3/8" clearance between the ps pulley and the frame. Only intact OEM mounts or ES bushings will keep the engine from torquing and causing a pulley strike. Otherwise, I bought a torque arm for a late model Mazda to design an anti-torque arm, I just need to make it. Haven't gotten around to that yet because my mounts are still solid. If the ES bushings work out, I don't need to make that thing.

 

NWP makes a engine torque link kit, I'm considering it to see if it will help with longevity of the E.S. mounts. they have a before and after video but it's not too convincing to be honest