I got a check engine light last night! HELP!!!>
11-16-2000, 05:35 AM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 437
The tank was on empty and the car was still cold.
I'm pulling outta the grocery store around 5:30 last night and it about 35-40 degrees outside.
There a green light so I put it down to about 3/4ths throttle so I can make the light. All of a sudden at around 2000 rpm the engine chokes and the gas pedal is worthless at the 3/4th position its at so I let off the gas and look down at the tach. its idling at 1k so the car is still on. I turn off the radio and slowly press the gas, the car starts going and at 2k rpm again the fuel starts cutting out. so I kept it under 2k while driving to the gas station. I filled up and the same stuff happened.
This morning I turned on the car...put it in reverse and it stalled on me! So I got dropped off to work this morn and I'm wondering what I can do so I don't have to take it to the dealer.
The lights that are on in the console are the:
1. check engine
2. slip light
3. Traction control off light
What if I unplug the battery for a few hours...will the car forget that the check engine light was ever on?
Is there something I can do under the dash to diagnose the problem or reset the system?
HHHEEEEELLLPPPP!
I'm pulling outta the grocery store around 5:30 last night and it about 35-40 degrees outside.
There a green light so I put it down to about 3/4ths throttle so I can make the light. All of a sudden at around 2000 rpm the engine chokes and the gas pedal is worthless at the 3/4th position its at so I let off the gas and look down at the tach. its idling at 1k so the car is still on. I turn off the radio and slowly press the gas, the car starts going and at 2k rpm again the fuel starts cutting out. so I kept it under 2k while driving to the gas station. I filled up and the same stuff happened.
This morning I turned on the car...put it in reverse and it stalled on me! So I got dropped off to work this morn and I'm wondering what I can do so I don't have to take it to the dealer.
The lights that are on in the console are the:
1. check engine
2. slip light
3. Traction control off light
What if I unplug the battery for a few hours...will the car forget that the check engine light was ever on?
Is there something I can do under the dash to diagnose the problem or reset the system?
HHHEEEEELLLPPPP!
11-16-2000, 05:39 AM
#2
Peter a few guys had that happin to their cars. I think Kevin was the last guy after he installed the CAI. Do this. Disconnect the battery and leave it sitting there for a few hours and then connect it. Thats what they did to fix that problem. Also I think some guys just filled the gas in the tank and it went away. U might have gotten some trash in the fuel like or something. It should go away.
11-16-2000, 05:42 AM
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 437
I sure hope so! Gonna try that now(sneeking outta work
Thanks Ali!
Thanks Ali!
Originally posted by PIONEER
Peter a few guys had that happin to their cars. I think Kevin was the last guy after he installed the CAI. Do this. Disconnect the battery and leave it sitting there for a few hours and then connect it. Thats what they did to fix that problem. Also I think some guys just filled the gas in the tank and it went away. U might have gotten some trash in the fuel like or something. It should go away.
Peter a few guys had that happin to their cars. I think Kevin was the last guy after he installed the CAI. Do this. Disconnect the battery and leave it sitting there for a few hours and then connect it. Thats what they did to fix that problem. Also I think some guys just filled the gas in the tank and it went away. U might have gotten some trash in the fuel like or something. It should go away.
11-16-2000, 06:04 AM
#4
Also there was a lot of moisture in the air last night here in NC so I'm sure U guys upstate prolly had some too, and I know U got that JWT intake with the open face so I'm wondering if it had moisture on the Sensors. MAYBE, MAYBE NOT.. Just a guess.
11-16-2000, 06:35 AM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,915
This happened to me when my JWT intake came off the intake tube, which wasn't that obvious. It kept stalling and cutting out. I couldn't even start it after a while. The MAF was confused about the air fuel mixture, causing the stalling. The dealer discovered that my intake came off and told me to take it off or they wouldn't fix any warranty items. After they reconnected it, the car ran like a charm. I then went home and put my stock airbox back on.
11-16-2000, 07:56 AM
#6
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I didn't have those probs when I put my intake on. I've had my intake for quite a while and I think I even had it last winter. I haven't done any mods to my car lately 
Originally posted by Paul2kGXE
This happened to me when my JWT intake came off the intake tube, which wasn't that obvious. It kept stalling and cutting out. I couldn't even start it after a while. The MAF was confused about the air fuel mixture, causing the stalling. The dealer discovered that my intake came off and told me to take it off or they wouldn't fix any warranty items. After they reconnected it, the car ran like a charm. I then went home and put my stock airbox back on.
This happened to me when my JWT intake came off the intake tube, which wasn't that obvious. It kept stalling and cutting out. I couldn't even start it after a while. The MAF was confused about the air fuel mixture, causing the stalling. The dealer discovered that my intake came off and told me to take it off or they wouldn't fix any warranty items. After they reconnected it, the car ran like a charm. I then went home and put my stock airbox back on.
11-16-2000, 08:10 AM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 308
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
11-16-2000, 08:24 AM
#8
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Posts: 1,915
Mine didn't have problems for a while either. Make sure your intake is snug and tight. The MAF is a sensitive thing.
Originally posted by Gr8bone
I didn't have those probs when I put my intake on. I've had my intake for quite a while and I think I even had it last winter. I haven't done any mods to my car lately
I didn't have those probs when I put my intake on. I've had my intake for quite a while and I think I even had it last winter. I haven't done any mods to my car lately
Originally posted by Paul2kGXE
This happened to me when my JWT intake came off the intake tube, which wasn't that obvious. It kept stalling and cutting out. I couldn't even start it after a while. The MAF was confused about the air fuel mixture, causing the stalling. The dealer discovered that my intake came off and told me to take it off or they wouldn't fix any warranty items. After they reconnected it, the car ran like a charm. I then went home and put my stock airbox back on.
This happened to me when my JWT intake came off the intake tube, which wasn't that obvious. It kept stalling and cutting out. I couldn't even start it after a while. The MAF was confused about the air fuel mixture, causing the stalling. The dealer discovered that my intake came off and told me to take it off or they wouldn't fix any warranty items. After they reconnected it, the car ran like a charm. I then went home and put my stock airbox back on.
11-16-2000, 09:57 AM
#11
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,915
I wouldn't panic just yet, especially if you drive a stick. There have been very few reports of the check engine light. And I think most of those are from people with aftermarket intakes. Warped rotors have always been a problem with Nissan. Don't sell the stock just yet.
Originally posted by sprung
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
11-16-2000, 11:10 AM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 308
I was thinking of putting the stock airbox back in, the noise from the intake bothers me more and more these days. I've had it on longer than i had the stock unit in there and i can't even remember what it sounded like when i got it. on the other hand though, i don't want to mess with it and risk screwing up the MAF plus most people who ride with me think the car sounds so agressive...girls love it, gives the sensation of more power than it really has, hehe.
11-16-2000, 06:17 PM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,915
You can take a break and remove it for the winter. Kind of PITA to go back and forth though.
Originally posted by sprung
I was thinking of putting the stock airbox back in, the noise from the intake bothers me more and more these days. I've had it on longer than i had the stock unit in there and i can't even remember what it sounded like when i got it. on the other hand though, i don't want to mess with it and risk screwing up the MAF plus most people who ride with me think the car sounds so agressive...girls love it, gives the sensation of more power than it really has, hehe.
I was thinking of putting the stock airbox back in, the noise from the intake bothers me more and more these days. I've had it on longer than i had the stock unit in there and i can't even remember what it sounded like when i got it. on the other hand though, i don't want to mess with it and risk screwing up the MAF plus most people who ride with me think the car sounds so agressive...girls love it, gives the sensation of more power than it really has, hehe.
11-16-2000, 09:13 PM
#15
What is a warped rotor? The brake rotor is designed to be flat and remain that way. Intense heat applied at the wrong time, or cheap materials, cause the circular, flat rotor to warp.
The fix is to replace the rotor or "turn" it, which is actually shaving a certain amount off making it flat again.
A warped rotor causes shudder in the wheels (front, rear, or both) due to the "warped" nature of the cirulcar part, and uneven brake wear. Cracking may occur over a long period of time. The "shudder" may intensify under heavier braking.
The fix is to replace the rotor or "turn" it, which is actually shaving a certain amount off making it flat again.
A warped rotor causes shudder in the wheels (front, rear, or both) due to the "warped" nature of the cirulcar part, and uneven brake wear. Cracking may occur over a long period of time. The "shudder" may intensify under heavier braking.
11-17-2000, 12:24 PM
#16
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Posts: n/a
The fail safe system is activated on the ecu. My car has been doing this for about a month and the haynes book contains two paragraphs about this. I have been running my max like this for about a month now and I have replace the cylinder head temp sensor and the air flow meter. also I am getting a code 44 on the ecu for the mode III diagnosis. I would check your computer codes and maybe that will tell you what the problem is
Ravintommy
Ravintommy
11-17-2000, 04:57 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
His car is a auto Paul
Originally posted by Paul2kGXE
I wouldn't panic just yet, especially if you drive a stick. There have been very few reports of the check engine light. And I think most of those are from people with aftermarket intakes. Warped rotors have always been a problem with Nissan. Don't sell the stock just yet.
I wouldn't panic just yet, especially if you drive a stick. There have been very few reports of the check engine light. And I think most of those are from people with aftermarket intakes. Warped rotors have always been a problem with Nissan. Don't sell the stock just yet.
Originally posted by sprung
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
11-20-2000, 05:15 AM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 437
How do you check your diagnostic computer code? The weathers been too cold to do anything outside.
Originally posted by Ravintommy
The fail safe system is activated on the ecu. My car has been doing this for about a month and the haynes book contains two paragraphs about this. I have been running my max like this for about a month now and I have replace the cylinder head temp sensor and the air flow meter. also I am getting a code 44 on the ecu for the mode III diagnosis. I would check your computer codes and maybe that will tell you what the problem is
Ravintommy
The fail safe system is activated on the ecu. My car has been doing this for about a month and the haynes book contains two paragraphs about this. I have been running my max like this for about a month now and I have replace the cylinder head temp sensor and the air flow meter. also I am getting a code 44 on the ecu for the mode III diagnosis. I would check your computer codes and maybe that will tell you what the problem is
Ravintommy
11-20-2000, 09:11 AM
#19
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Posts: 1,915
I know, but I was responding to Sprung, who has a stick.
Originally posted by Russ2kSE
His car is a auto Paul
His car is a auto Paul
Originally posted by Paul2kGXE
I wouldn't panic just yet, especially if you drive a stick. There have been very few reports of the check engine light. And I think most of those are from people with aftermarket intakes. Warped rotors have always been a problem with Nissan. Don't sell the stock just yet.
I wouldn't panic just yet, especially if you drive a stick. There have been very few reports of the check engine light. And I think most of those are from people with aftermarket intakes. Warped rotors have always been a problem with Nissan. Don't sell the stock just yet.
Originally posted by sprung
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
That's really freaky Peter, I'm starting to worry about this car going the distance. Many of us have had the front rotors warp already, some have had this check engine light with a messed up running engine, same thing happened to MD2kmax while at the track!! He thought it might be from racing but it's happened to you and others now so that must not be the case.
I would say your best bet is to diconnect the battery for a few hours then hook it back up and see how it goes. If it happens again, you must take it to the dealer. Hopefully it was a fluke.
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