CIRCO

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys I did a search and read all the posts. I need to get this clear before I buy them and let me tell you I need a drop bad! Doing some 4x4 action with my 18". Anyway, are these just myths or individual one time experiences or is this the consensus of the org. I prefer to hear from actual experience instead of hear say.

-Squeaking rattling? Front/Rear?
-Have two different types of GC depending on tokiko/Koni?
-Need to buy extra parts for install?
-Is not a direct replacement?
-Goes bad after a short period of time?
-Should be coupled with AGX because of adjustability? (Is AGX a direct replacement also?)

I don't care about ride quality, or anything just if its a direct replacement, ie no grinding, nig riggin, anything. Also reliability because this is my daily driver. Is camber/caster adjustable? Toe in/ out adjustable? Thanks

Guest

I've done a 4th gen AGX/ GC install.

#1 MEASURE DISTANCE FROM LIP OF FENDER TO CENTER OF WHEEL, or A CONSTANT MARK ON THE WHEEL, Top of Center Cap, etc. Keep those measurements handy, as it will be your REFERENCE Point on which you lower your car.
The hard part was getting the GC sleeves(red) on the AGXs. This required extensive work to get in. The install was simple onto the car once everything was on. The hard part was adjusting them.
There is no unwanted noise unless you go over sever bumps, the GC coil springs do hit, and create a somewhat annoying "ding" sound. beyond that, there isn't much to complain about.
I will explain the following.
The front ones require grinding, and careful placement of the rubber gasket to prevent the GCs from banging around. Instructions will dictate how to do the install.
The rear ones w/ the rubber isolating gasket require a bit more work.
I have figured a way. You will have to trust me on this. Look at the rear GC springs, notice how the sleeve(red) goes over rear shock. The GC sleeve(red) DOES HAVE AN UP AND A DOWN. On the inside there is an indent, which IS DOWN. If you fit the sleeve, testing it, you will understand.
Lube up the rubber isolating gasket w/ white lithium grease or Permatex Teflon assembly lube. Fit the sleeve on the rubber isolating gasket, and you must give some effort to get it started to go down the rubber isolating gaskets. Take a hose clamp; clamp the bottom of the rubber isolating gasket, take a rubber mallet, and start hitting the sleeve down. THIS IS THE LONGEST PART OF THE PROCESS. Expect about an hour of hammering the sleeve on. Check every once in a while to make sure its seating correctly and not "cocking" to one side. Once you have about 1/4" before you get to hose clamp, take a sharp razor, and cut around the rubber isolating gasket, and hammer down again as far as you can. There is no need to hammer down all the way. At this point there maybe another 1/4"-1/2" inch, set the collar(gold) 3 turns raised compared to the front. Follow the Instructions from GC, to install the rear coilover kit.
Install the suspension, and go for a test drive. The rear should settle down all the way now.
Now adjust and measure, until desired height is reached. About a week from install, finalize your measurements. Have the car aligned, and keep a reference book to see alignment setting, and if anything comes loose or if your alignment gets screwy.
Any drop below 2" will require a camber bolt kit.

AGX Install on 5th Gen using 4th Gen KYB AGX. 1st option is to get 98 or 99 Maxima upper mounts or as I've done shave the top portion of the upper strut mount. If you need references on how to do it, please don't hesitate to reach me via Email.

-Peace