makeHerPurr

I recently upgraded my tires/wheels from
15x6.5, 205/65/15 -> 17x8, 235/45/17

I'd like to have the front end aligned. Will it be JUST as effective if I use the original tires/wheels for the alignment or should I use the new setup? Given the horror stories I have heard about alignment shops, I am nervous about them scratching/damaging my new wheels.

BTW, anyone have a suggestion for a good alignment shop in San Jose?

Thanks in advance!

max'n out

Did you change the suspension? You want it aligned with what your runing now.

makeHerPurr

No changes to the suspension.

The alignment variables are different for the two tire/rim sizes?

Before switching to the new tires/rims, my alignment was dead-on. After moving to the larger tires/rims, the car has a slight pull to the right.

2001SilverSeMax

What tire/wheel combo did you get?

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

damn..I am nervous...going from 205x65R15 to 235x40R18..18x8.0 tims. Hope my car doesn't pull. Did you install all tires in the proper direction?

makeHerPurr

All tires mounted correctly and rotate in the correct direction.

New setup is Konig Tantrum 17x8 and Kuhmo 235/45/17.

I just looked up the alignment specs...
Camber, Caster, and Kingping inclination not adjustable.

Total toe-in
min nominal max
0 0.04" 0.08"

kwd2kSE

Good idea to at least have the alignment checked whenever you change tires and/or wheels. Checking is almost always no charge. I had my aligned done at the Bridgestone dealer where I bought the new tires from. The original RE92's were showing a little more wear on the outside than the rest of the tire. They had no problems doing a new alignment. Oh, and not a mark on the new wheels when they mounted the tires.

Mike

Tanman

I had my wheels aligned after I went to 18"s. Took my Maxima to a dealer for some other service and had them align it. The tech says they had to remove my new rims and install stock rims in order to align it correctly. I think that makes sense, since it's not really the wheels that they're aligning, but the suspension\front end.

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

was your car pulling before you went to 18"s?

makeHerPurr

The toe-in numbers are the same for the following tires/wheels:
205/65/15, 215/55/16, 225/50/17. The caster and camber are NOT.

There are no numbers in the shop manual spec'd for anything other than the above tires. I'm guessing that's why the tech. put your stock setup on.

If we extraplolate the given info, we can assume the toe-in remains the same for 235/45/17 and beyond (comments please). However the problem becomes the caster and camber adjustments.

For people with original 15" wheels, their caster and camber are going to be off when plus sizing to 17" or 18" wheels.

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

I am one of these ppl. Just break it down to me, if you are not changing anything in suspension, but only going up in the wheel size, how would that affect your toe/camber=alignment?? There is no connection whatsoever. My point is, if your car drove straight while on stock 15's, there's no point in doing alignment...Where did you have your 17"s put on? If you had it done at the shop, it is possible they played you by either fabricating fake read outs, or just convincing you to "spend more".

wdave

WRONG!! Changing wheels and tires will not change ANY alignment measurements. However, the any change in tire profile or wheel offset will change the car's sensitivity to alignment variations. It is also possible that the new wheels will not allow proper attachment of the alignment equipment.

Tanman

Nope, not before, but slightly after, so the alignment was necessary. Also the place I got the wheels recommended it, even though they don't do alignments.

Tony Fernandes

I had the SAME problem. I went from stock 17-inch SE/AE wheels w/ RE92s to 17x7 Nakayamas w/ 235/45 Potenza RE950s. My car was dead on before and now pulls to the right. The alignment shop said there is no adjustment to correct for this. After playing musical wheels, I learned that the car pulls no matter what, so it's not the tires causing the problem. Although, when I switch the two front wheels/tires the pull problem goes away. But the tires are directional so I didn't leave them that way...I only did it for an experiment. I guess I have to live with the pull?

Tony

makeHerPurr

Are you saying that Nissan's shop manual in WRONG! The info. I gave is directly out of there. Maybe you should consult for Nissan and set them straight.

wdave

No, there's nothing wrong with the manual, the preferred settings might change according to the wheel and tire size selected. The manual shows a 5 minute (totally insignifigant) difference in camber setting between 16-17 and 15 in and NO difference in caster or toe setting. Changing wheels and tires does not change camber, caster or toe-in.

wdave

I just realized your confusion - those are allowable limits in the shop manual for camber and caster, and it is true that a narrower and higher profile tire will tolerate more range of camber and work aceptably well than a wider, lower profile version.
I too have the problem of developing a slight pull/steering offset when I change my wheels from summer to winter. The main difference is that my summer wheels are 1/2 in wider and about 1/4 in more outset. So, the reality is that the car is a little crooked but with the stock wheel/tire assy. the contact patch is well enough centered to not be a bother, but not so with the summer wheels. I have experienced this with other cars as well. The solution is to play with the slop in the upper strut mounting holes to get minor changes in camber, caster and kingpin inclination, and even to add a pound or two of air pressure to the side it pulls toward.